The use of Klear . . .

[Mancunian airman]

 As a floor polish that we use for modelling, has anybody used it for 'glueing' clear parts ??

I just wondered if/as it dried it would be pretty secure for cockpit glazing  . . .

Just a thought 

Ian

[bentwaters81tfw]

Not as effective as PVA

[Giorgio N]

Yes, tried but it's not ideal. Sticks the parts together, but I would only use it if you plan on not touching the glued parts ever.

 

[Ray_W]

Yes, usually insufficient strength.

 

I do use it (original Future in my case) for clear-to-clear un-structural components like the rear clamshell canopy on this Bf-110 tapping a little with a brush here:

 

 

And here and drawing it in with capillary action:

 

 

or this internal scratch-built armour glass and gunsight reflector for a F4U-1D. Nice clear finish. No gluing visible:

 

 

For other clear joints I use Tamiya Extra Thin (polystyrene) or thin CA (vacuum formed canopies). I carefully wick in just what I need. Let capillary action come into play. I build in 1/48 so can ensure good air circulation. If concerned, I flash off that initial gas escape with a hair dryer circulating warm internal air. I do not pre-coat canopies e.g "Future", preferring to polish, and don't mess around with the other glues anymore. I have not had one fog. If it was a closed in 1/72 or 1/144 canopy I might re-think my strategy. The again, maybe not. 

 

Ray   

 

 

 

 

[Don149]

`Agree with what`s been said Ian , it`s just not strong enough . For the main canopy on mine  I used Plastic Weld , carefully run in on the join from a fine brush .

For all the other clear parts I used Micro Kristal Klear including the canopy side blisters on the second one , placed very carefully with them stuck on the end of a

blunted cocktail stick with liquid mask . And there`s no need pratt about trying to cut out the " glass " underneath them as you can`t see it on the finished job ,

just so long as the " glsss " is spotless , as I`m sure it would be . But if you do choose to fit them , you only get one go , or it`s " oh damn , look at this " . ( Polite version ) .

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         

[Mancunian airman]

Don,

You hit the nail on the head as I am thinking about the cockpit blister on the big Lanc . . .

thanks

Ian

[Mancunian airman]

Ray

Thats what I'm looking at with canopies and gun turrets.

Certainly cant afford to let these fog.

Great photos indicating your technique so thanks for sharing those  . . .

Ian

[Mancunian airman]

4 hours ago, bentwaters81tfw said:

Not as effective as PVA

I always thought that PVA was the 'fail Safe' method but in the past I have occasionally applied to much and it leaves a 'stain' on the glazing.

thanks for your input, its appreciated 

Ian

[fubar57]

I use puzzle glue as well

 

 

Lots of different brands out there and probably PVA as well. Dries clear and I have picked up a 1:48 Spitfire by the canopy after the glue had set up.......gently

Edited January 7, 2021 by fubar57

[303sqn]

Go to Poundland and look for Dovecraft Ultimate Craft Glue. You will find it in the crafting supplies, not the DIY section. It is an acrylic resin, very gloopy, that dries crystal clear and hard but not as brittle as Superglue. Water soluble, so it can be applied with a brush and any surplus is easy to clean up. Does not stink or glue your fingers together. Also available from branches of Wilko, a penny cheaper.

[Noel Smith]

Next time I am in Poundland or Wilko I will look out that product. Sounds like a good extra to add to my adhesives armoury.

 

Kleer or Future......Same stuff different name. I have some Kleer that I used to dip coat a clear resin canopy recently and it works brilliantly. Dipped the whole thing in and wicked off the excess by touching the edges onto kitchen roll tissue. Left for 24 hours to harden Crystal clear!

Edited January 8, 2021 by Noel Smith

[Julien]

not exactly WWI aviation is it? moved.

[chrisbob12]

Some very delicate looking brushes on display here, presumably not disposable! I would appreciate recommendations for cleaning liquid cement from your glue brush.

[Ray_W]

3 hours ago, chrisbob12 said:

Some very delicate looking brushes on display here, presumably not disposable! I would appreciate recommendations for cleaning liquid cement from your glue brush.

If you're referring to the brushes I was using with Future as shown in the following picture, then I just wash them in water before the Future sets. Following that, I will usually wash the brush in soapy water and rinse. If I inadvertently let the Future set on the brush, which I try not to, then I soak the brush in a cleaner that contains ammonia and rinse.

 

 

I use the brush type cap that comes with the Tamiya Extra Thin and a thin piece of wire as an applicator for CA. No brush cleaning necessary.

 

If your question is a broader one regarding removal of liquid cement from brushes then it would be worthy of its own thread.

 

Ray