Clear coating F1 over decals and gloss paint

[ftm2001]

Hi all.  

I'm currently doing a tamiya 1/20 f189 which is my first car model since the 90s and first use of gloss paint since the same date.

I've not really enjoyed the build as I keep running into issues due to my inexperience.

I undercoated the bodywork with vallejo premium white primer then sanded it back slightly which went OK.  I then painted it with Mr Hobby aqueous to an ok standard and applied decals.  Im now at the stage where I don't know what to do for a top clear coat and polish.

I tried vallejon premium gloss on a small rear body part which pooled so I left it to dry for 72 hours.  I sprayed it at 15 psi through a 0.3 needle airbrush as its all I have.

I then tried sanding the pooled bit back with 6000 grit then 12000 grit micro mesh wet which just burnt straight back through to the primer.

I've repainted this part now and am just wondering what to do as a gloss clear coat?

The clear coats I have are future, vallejo premium gloss, vallejo gloss, humbrol acrylic gloss rattle can or tamiya ts13 (which is also 20 years old and I'm led to believe won't go well with the acrylic paint).  

I'm not going to attempt micromesh again but will attempt to polish the clear coat with tamiya fine and finish.

What, out of the options I have, would people recommend?  

[Kenneth Cooper]

Use the Future.  Spray it, brush it or just pour it over the model.  It is self-leveling.

[Kitkent]

Or Klear if you can find any,it's the self levelling that works. Good luck,Chris.

[James88]

Although I’ve only used it on aircraft models I like Humbrol Gloss Clear varnish. I’ve brushed and sprayed it at about 24 psi through a 0.3mm nozzle and it’s been fine everything, it’s also self levelling so don’t have to be too concerned about level coats 

[Spiny]

One thing which is often worth doing if you're not sure about paint compatibility is to get hold of some cheap plastic teaspoons from the supermarket - you can test the various paint combinations on there and if they react badly with one another you've only ruined a 2p spoon rather than all your hard work on the model.

 

Can't speak for the Vallejo, but I have found the Humbrol works well over decals, as does the Future/Klear/whatever they're calling it now. I've not had a good experience with the Tamiya over decals, although other people have found it to work ok - I think mine might have pooled in a recess then reacted slightly with the decal so go light with your layers if you use that.

[ftm2001]

Cheers for the replies.  I think I'll risk the humbrol acrylic varnish rattle can.