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2021 and back into lock down for Covid so how to pass the time?  Well my daughter and son in law gave me Revell's 1/24 Dominic Torretto's 1970 Dodge Charger from the film Fast & Furious 1. Not planning on making it completely accurate but hope to make some improvements along the way such as adding the completely missing from the kit exhaust system and removing the interior trim details.

 

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I'll start on this soon in the mean time stay safe

 

                Roger

 

 

 

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Not a fan of that series of films either, but this was the only car in it which made me think "wow...!!"*  (so of course, the film makers trashed it...) & so will also be following with great interest!

 

At the time, I much prefered the '68 & '69, but the full loop front bumper on these has grown on me since.  The more aggressive look also suits the exposed blower more than on the earlier ones.  This release has much cooler wheels than the factory stock version too!

 

*helped by the fact that unlike the other cars used, it didn't look like it had been covered in contact adhesive and then ram-raided a car accessory shop...

Edited by Paul H
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Thanks for showing interest in this project, I have made a start no pics: I'm afraid as at present I've only cleaned up the body shell removing the wheel arch chrome trims as they aren't present on the film car and the chromed parts have had a bath in Tesco multi surface cleaner to remove the chrome from the parts  which has revealed a lot extra detail that has hidden by the coating.

More soon hopefully with pics:

 

Thanks for looking in and stay safe              Roger

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Body shell rubbed down and guide coat sprayed and flatted back ready for top coat

 

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Not a lot done but small progress is better than none

 

Thanks for looking and stay safe               Roger

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Forgetting about ridiculous movies, this is a cool car. As is the way with a lot of American muscle cars, There’s a large surface area on the body. Flaws in the paint will really stand out. 

 

Whats up up with the roof? Is that primer left over after sanding?

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2 hours ago, Mr Mansfield said:

Whats up up with the roof? Is that primer left over after sanding?

 

Yes that is exactly it is, due to the large areas involved I sprayed a guide coat over the primer to show up any defects and as you can see there are plenty!

May have to strip the paint back completely and start from scratch again.

Thanks for looking in

 

     Stay safe               Roger

    

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

 

Just a quick update, this one has not been forgotten but I have had issues with the paint on the body shell which seems to have been affected by silicone which has caused the paint to lift in places so I have now stripped the shell and given it a good clean and will then repaint. More progress soon I hope!

Thanks for stopping by

 

  Stay safe          Roger

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  • 3 weeks later...

 

Back on this one now, still having trouble with silicone on the body shell playing up the paint work, so far the shell has been stripped  twice and resprayed and at present I am contemplating a third strip and repaint or just live with what's there. As usual the camera shows up every little imperfection, the shell looks a better to the naked eye which is always the way.

Some construction is under way together with some detail painting as well. Here is a couple of pics: just to prove I haven't completely given up on this.

 

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More later thanks for taking the time to stop by

 

           Stay safe           Roger

 

 

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It doesn't make it easier that it's black. Rather than trying to polish the black back again, would it be worth a try giving it a first clear coat, sanding back that with something like 2-3000grit, then giving it the final clear coat. That first coat will give you something to polish, and if you go through that colour to the black a) you'll start to see black on the sandpaper giving you warning you're starting to go through, and b) it won't be noticeable so you can add the final clear coat without it showing in the end product.

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@Spiny many thanks for you suggestion, after the first strip back to bare plastic I  sealed the shell with a clear coat to try to neutralize any silicone that the strip, wash and flat back may have missed. After priming with Alcad micro primer/filler lightly flatted then sprayed top coat and leaving to harden the finish reacted again so the whole process was repeated with curing time between each coat which has given a better result as can be seen in the picture above.

I think I shall have to bite the bullet and strip this back to bare plastic again as it appears that  the silicone is still affecting the paintwork.

 

   Stay safe       Roger 

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Id try stripping it and then clean it with isopropyl alcohol at least once.  I'd also give it a coat of automotive primer after that, since it's cheap and will show up any problems before you get to the finish coats.    Spraying anything over silicone won't seal it, the silicone will prevent it from adhering.

 

Re the chassis, lots of people pick out the chassis rails in black, but they are integral with the body structure. The K member and the trans mount were separate parts and those were painted black from the factory.  Movie or restored car (or model!)  - anything goes, but you'd do as well just to paint it all black.  🙂

Edited by Six97s
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I have lost count of the number of times I have stripped and re-primed only to have to do it again (and again...)
It's nearly always the roof that's the main culprit.

 

I have re-primed the roof of my Ford GT yet again, but now I think tat my air-brush nozzle is shot as I'm getting paint 'splodges' all over the place.
I thins a new nozzle is in order, but at 14 quit a shot, I'm reluctant to spend the money.. (Skinflint!)

 

I wonder if I'm using too low a pressure?

 

Cheers,

Alan.

Edited by Alan R
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Love these late 68-69 Chargers, brings to mind the coolest car chase ever filmed IMO (Bullitt).  This Revell kit looks like it’s originalvintage (1997?) offers the excellent more recent engineering and tooling from Revell (like the ‘50 Olds, ‘57 Fords, ‘57 Chev). I may need to look for a stock version of this kit along with a 1/25 ‘68 Mustang 2+2 to recreate the chase in my display case!

 

I’m speculating here but I doubt your paint problems are due to “silicone” ( mold release spray from Revell?), not something I’ve ever encountered in any Revell kit. I doubt Revell would use a styrene resin with release agents that would affect painting and bonding (they would be buried in complaints). Most mold releases used are vegetable based which is the reason the kit manufacturers recommend soaking the plastic in warm detergent and fully drying before paint and assembly. It looks to me like either a paint compatibility issue between the primer and black or just bad paint. Try switching to a different brand of black paint?

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2 hours ago, nearsightedjohn said:

paint compatibility issue between the primer and black or just bad paint

 

Thanks for your interest @nearsightedjohn and I totally agree with you on the Bullitt chase.

First painting was Tamiya primer under Tamiya X1 with Tamiya thinners, second painting was with Alcad grey filler primer with Alcad base gloss black. Each time the shell was washed and air dried, the reaction is the same as the 1:1 scale painting after silicone has been used in the spray area.

 

Stay safe         Roger

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18 hours ago, Hamden said:

 

Thanks for your interest @nearsightedjohn and I totally agree with you on the Bullitt chase.

First painting was Tamiya primer under Tamiya X1 with Tamiya thinners, second painting was with Alcad grey filler primer with Alcad base gloss black. Each time the shell was washed and air dried, the reaction is the same as the 1:1 scale painting after silicone has been used in the spray area.

 

Stay safe         Roger

I wouldn't worry about getting a nice gloss coat if you are indeed modeling Dom's car. Apparently I am the only fan of the movies here (in a they are goofy action movies not documentaries sort of way) so I know that the car was actually a matt or at best semi gloss finish. It is actually even a little beat up for most of the movies it is in so you can hide a multitude of paint sins. 

If I was painting it I would just use the Tamiya semi gloss as the main coat and may even give it a light spray of dull coat to knock the gloss down even more. Another option I may consider would be to use flat nato black as the main coat and then spry it with a semi gloss lacquer to bring the gloss up a tad.

 

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Thanks for your input @Tcoat I'm not looking for a high gloss finish just a smooth even finish which at present I'm not getting for the reasons listed above.

To this end I've completely stripped the shell back to bare plastic and washed it yet again.

The model is not at all accurate to the one(s) used in the film and although I'm hoping to correct some of the faults it will not be an exact replica.  

I do enjoy the Fast & Furious series for what they are, a fantasy action of the James Bond type. 

 

Thanks again for your interest and comments they're very much appreciated

 

   Stay safe           Roger 

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14 minutes ago, Hamden said:

 

Thanks for your input @Tcoat I'm not looking for a high gloss finish just a smooth even finish which at present I'm not getting for the reasons listed above.

To this end I've completely stripped the shell back to bare plastic and washed it yet again.

The model is not at all accurate to the one(s) used in the film and although I'm hoping to correct some of the faults it will not be an exact replica.  

I do enjoy the Fast & Furious series for what they are, a fantasy action of the James Bond type. 

 

Thanks again for your interest and comments they're very much appreciated

 

   Stay safe           Roger 

Yep. Understood.

Many of these kits are the old school AMT molds just repopped with a few new parts. Some of those molds are 40+ years old and even the best of them are only a basic representation of the actual car.

I admire your persistence in stripping and restarting! I would have said "forget it it will be flat black" a long time ago. 

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Another option for colour would be Halfords satin or matt black, both of which seem to go on really well.

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  • 3 weeks later...

 

Thanks for all the comments and advice your input is very much appreciated.

In an effort to keep this one going I have built up the engine less the intake on top of the super charger, started to modify  the door cards to try and represent the sheet aluminium used in the film cars and the alterations to the dash panel for the same reason.

 

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Many thanks for stopping by your time is appreciated

 

    Stay safe              Roger

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

 

A bit more done, I have put together the interior and built a full roll cage. Having looked at pictures of the cars used in the film (there were at least five all slightly different) I have built a representation of the interior taking bits from all the different pictures.

Anyway enough waffle I'll let the pictures do the talking

 

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Thanks for taking the time to stop by

 

   Stay safe                       Roger

 

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Nice work.   The distributor should be at the front though, as it's a late Hemi... is the kit designed to have it at the rear of the engine?   Wouldn't be the first time they've screwed up, but their other Mopar kits are correct in that regard.  🤔

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1 hour ago, Six97s said:

The distributor should be at the front though,

 

Thanks for your comment @Six97s

Going through various pictures of the cars (they used at least five to make the film) some have the distributor at the front some at the back, I just decided to put it at the back the kit has it at the front.

This kit is in no way accurate as the film car(s) so I have decided to use some artistic license. 

 

  Stay safe            Roger

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