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Sd.Kfz 161/3 3.7cm FLAK Auf. Fgst Pz.Kpfw.IV (Sf) "MOBELWAGEN"


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Hi

Got to say that is some very neat and tidy PE work. Apart from a very steady hand what do you use to secure it in place? I can't see any residue of glue etc.

Cheers

Alan

 

 

 

Edited by alanmac
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thats some nice PE.... seeing this makes me want to go "overboard" on something with PE - perhaps I will get the ABER interior set for the M8 Greyhound - that add a lot of detail to the interior

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18 hours ago, alanmac said:

Hi

Got to say that is some very neat and tidy PE work. Apart from a very steady hand what do you use to secure it in place? I can't see any residue of glue etc.

Cheers

Alan

 

 

 

 

Hi Alan, thanks for the thumbs up.......I use simple cryo' gel by Gorrilla....and I apply it with stretched sprue held in an Exacto handle. If you stretch the sprue nice a fine, you can apply dots of cryo' less than a mil. You'd be surprised how little you really need. If there is any excess....for about a minute or two, it can be scraped away with a scalpel blade tip..for a very short time, it seems to act as it's own eraser as such and pick up all the excess....but it's a small window.

 

Regards

Simon.

 

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3 hours ago, Redcoat2966 said:

 

Hi Alan, thanks for the thumbs up.......I use simple cryo' gel by Gorrilla....and I apply it with stretched sprue held in an Exacto handle. If you stretch the sprue nice a fine, you can apply dots of cryo' less than a mil. You'd be surprised how little you really need. If there is any excess....for about a minute or two, it can be scraped away with a scalpel blade tip..for a very short time, it seems to act as it's own eraser as such and pick up all the excess....but it's a small window.

 

Regards

Simon.

 

 

Hi Simon

 

Thanks for detailing sharing your application technique. Now you just have to tell me how to keep my hand steady 😁

Seriously though, I've used a similar technique but was using a different glue, it wasn't gel type, so I think that might be the reason it wasn't as neat and clean as your finish.

 

Good luck with the build. Looking good so far.

 

all the best.

 

Alan

 

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Morning all.....just found some time to post some progress and have a look over the blogs in general......

 

Here's where the project stands at the moment.......99% of the upper and lower chassis is done, it looks visually not a lot changed from the last update, but a lot of parts have been added. I still have the front mud guards to finish and the twist locks on the rear left side air intake cover, and arial.....the hinged locks on the tool clamps (C hooks & jack) will be added after the tools are permanently fixed after painting.

 

mrbwGsk.jpg

 

Here's a tip to anyone out there..........check a photo of an actual piece in a museum. I have a walk around set of images of the Flak 43 off the web and in checking what the load tray looked like to be able to bend the PE part discovered that the thickness of the tray in reality is more like the kit piece. The thickness of the PE part scaled up to 1:35 would be about 9mm, where in the photo it's well on the way to being 15 to 20mm....

 

pQOXp3A.jpg

 

I'm about to check a little more as regards the shield that comes with the PE set......I think it may have the same issue....

 

vHfBaPh.jpg

 

The arial mount is another very complicated part, just along from the fire extinguisher..... that has a rod connecting it to the rear armoured shield...... It pivots the arial down so not to get in the way for 360 degree fire at ground level.

 

4yr8djA.jpg

 

...as you can see here....

 

8rIkqhX.jpg

 

So I can't fit it until I start the work on the shields and all the hinges I'm going to try and build from micro tube.....

 

FA0Ag4h.jpg

 

BcCSA9K.jpg

 

Anyway.....off to take a look at the rest of the blogs....

 

 

 

 

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It wouldn't be the first time that someone had found that a kit part was more accurate than the PE offering. It does look god though Simon, especially the flash eliminator on the gun barrel.

 

John. 

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hi

Continued excellent work

 

As regards the gun loading tray, whilst I think from side on view it does appear the thickness of the kit part I have a feeling in reality this is sheet metal formed to give it that edge, so it is indeed thin. Of course I challenge anyone to try to reproduce/shape something as small as that in PE, so I'm guessing the best option is the one you chose, the kit part.

 

Alan

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On 1/13/2021 at 2:06 PM, Bullbasket said:

It wouldn't be the first time that someone had found that a kit part was more accurate than the PE offering. It does look god though Simon, especially the flash eliminator on the gun barrel.

 

John. 

 

On 1/13/2021 at 2:28 PM, alanmac said:

hi

Continued excellent work

 

As regards the gun loading tray, whilst I think from side on view it does appear the thickness of the kit part I have a feeling in reality this is sheet metal formed to give it that edge, so it is indeed thin. Of course I challenge anyone to try to reproduce/shape something as small as that in PE, so I'm guessing the best option is the one you chose, the kit part.

 

Alan

 

Hi both........, I'm finding more and more with PE set's from all makers, that they PE something to fill the sprue's. There were so many other parts that they could have done in the place of all the tray parts. I discovered in the end that all the shell tray's are better going with the kit parts....the loading and ejector tray's. Your right Alan, the edges are rounded for strength. The steel in reality is about 10 mil....but on the loading tray PE part, they make no attempt at reproducing that depth pf pressing. The PE part end is just the thickness of the brass sheet.....:unamused:

 

All I had to do was thin the kit parts where necessary and shape the edges to be more rounded as in the images of the actual 37mm in a museum....as you say Alan, something that can't be done in PE....so really other PE detail could have been done in it's place of the sheets of parts.....some mudguards and air intake covers etc.

 

anyway....hope to post something more by weeks end..

 

cheers

Simon.

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  • 10 months later...

Morning all.

 

Been some time since any postings as I've many other pressing things I'd have preferred to have not had to tackle of late....but back at the bench trying to finalise many projects languishing in the display cabinet. I'll post there progress in time. Decided to finish the build on this one.  The main vehicle is now complete apart from the net spent round catching net and the shell racks and ammo boxes. 

 

KiZlARr.jpg

 

I decided on partial sides being down to emphasis the hooks etc as a detail.

 

0rhQoTt.jpg

 

Still have to add the tools on the front fenders to make it easier to paint them. In taking the pics I noticed one last detail to add in the locking pin and hinges for the opposite mud guard.

 

8VMsHDf.jpg

 

1rAdoJ2.jpg

 

The idlers are missing at present as I need to take the Model Kasten tracks off for painting

 

0tV5pYA.jpg

 

I'm considering getting an additional two turned barrels for the interior racks.....defends on whether I consider the paint job successful or not to warrant the cost.

 

mO0r7by.jpg

 

Cheers all.....

 

Redcoat

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37 minutes ago, Hamden said:

 

Nice to see you back, your outstanding work has been missed!

Looking forward to paint on this one now

 

    Stay safe           Roger

 

22 minutes ago, vytautas said:

Nice work Simon! Looks really luxurious.

 

Vytautas

 

Thanks both, appreciate that. In the process of some research on a colour scheme. Not sure if it's going to be basic Dunkelgelb with a very light green camo', or a three tone.....have to see.

 

All the best:yes:

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  • 3 weeks later...

Evening all, I hope you're all doing well. Managed to get back on the Mobelwagen and get the base colour down and some detail highlights. Going for the standard Dunkelgelb and a three tone in field applied camo'.........intentionally rough. Here's the base primer with some pre-shading with a thinned down black primer......and then final broad area white on panels and the main side walls and highlighted details in white.

 

 

jQIxxxV.jpg

 

U3OPUpY.jpg

 

PxGeMcH.jpg

 

Next layer is the Dunkelgelb Dark Base mixed at a 80/20 to keep it transparent

 

nfLq0yH.jpg

 

ylAHUPc.jpg

 

AGun9qa.jpg

 

wLPDuli.jpg

 

Then on with a even transparent coat of Dunkelgelb Base to blend all the pre-shading and tonal areas on the side walls etc.

 

3C825sa.jpg

 

e2T5rE3.jpg

 

csmpgJx.jpg

 

MrgwI2n.jpg

 

.......and finaly the last two layers of Dunkelgelb Light Base and finally Dunkelgelb Highlight......

 

huLjYTo.jpg

 

fKB1wEz.jpg

 

vnAIY0B.jpg

 

xzbEWje.jpg

 

Well Gents, that's it for a few day's......hopefully post an update later towards the end of the week.

 

Cheers

Simon.

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16 hours ago, Hamden said:

 

Looking good in the base colour Simon

 

  Stay safe       Roger

 

15 hours ago, edjbartos said:

That is looking so good Simon, It's nice that you have shown the different paint stages to get to this point, really top work, this will be another cracker..

 

Ed 

 

Thanks chap's.........it was a tough one to airbrush with all the internal corners etc, but finally got there. Going to practice a really fine 3 colour camo' scheme.......I'm waiting for some O rings for the finer H&S airbrush I have....the Mr Color 400 destroyed the last one, so won't be pushing that through AB again.....:worry:

 

Thanks again......:yes:

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Nice painting you have there. I have several packs of different parts for my CR plus. My problem is mainly with the Oneshot primer, already needed to do a total clean a change seals... so I like to have them here...just in case...

 

Cheers

LM

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6 minutes ago, Lazy Modeller said:

Nice painting you have there. I have several packs of different parts for my CR plus. My problem is mainly with the Oneshot primer, already needed to do a total clean a change seals... so I like to have them here...just in case...

 

Cheers

LM

 

Yeah mate, never had a problem before, but the 400 mixed well with Vallejo so gave it a try.....have to go back to Tamiya thinner.......luckily I have a back up brush until the bits arrive.

 

Redcoat

 

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5 minutes ago, Redcoat2966 said:

 

Yeah mate, never had a problem before, but the 400 mixed well with Vallejo so gave it a try.....have to go back to Tamiya thinner.......luckily I have a back up brush until the bits arrive.

 

Redcoat

 

Here only using Oneshot primer! Nothing compares. I usually do a 10% dilution with some flow improver and it gives a smooth finish that's sand-able. The Vallejo got to the bin. No way to sand it so its no good for this. I have a simple Revell blower that I want to try with the Oneshot, at least will be easier to clean.

Cheers

LM

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5 minutes ago, Lazy Modeller said:

Here only using Oneshot primer! Nothing compares. I usually do a 10% dilution with some flow improver and it gives a smooth finish that's sand-able. The Vallejo got to the bin. No way to sand it so its no good for this. I have a simple Revell blower that I want to try with the Oneshot, at least will be easier to clean.

Cheers

LM

 

Not sure why you have to be able to sand it..........what mix ratio do you do when priming?

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44 minutes ago, Redcoat2966 said:

 

Not sure why you have to be able to sand it..........what mix ratio do you do when priming?

Vallejo not thinned. But the problem is not there. After priming sometimes I need to sand in some places, and with Vallejo it comes in pieces. On the other hand Oneshot sands without problem. Well they called that but it is Stynylrez from Badger rebranded...

 

Cheers

LM

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1 minute ago, Lazy Modeller said:

Vallejo not thinned. But the problem is not there. After priming sometimes I need to sand in some places, and with Vallejo it comes in pieces. On the other hand Oneshot sands without problem. Well they called that but it is Stynylrez from Badger rebranded...

 

Cheers

LM

 

Yeah, I've heard of Stynylrez, it's a thinners based primer ( I think) like the one shot you mention. No different to what you use on a car I belive.

 

As regards the Vallejo un-thinned.....that's a big no-no. They do say in the description on the label you can use straight from the bottle, but I do a 75/25 thinned mix....75 being the thinner.....better to do 5 to 6 coats very thin, than one shot from the bottle. It ends up feeling like sand paper if not thinned, as it starts drying once it leaves the gun in mod air......As regards the sanding of it once dry. I've to date not had an issue. I think it's because I put very thin coats on and with 1000 grit with water it can be sanded if I see a surface imperfection from the build. Never had to sand my Vallejo because of a rough finish, due to the well thinned multiple coats. More thinner, gives it time to settle before drying.

 

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