#80236 Heller 1/72 Messerschmitt Bf-109B/C. +++FINISHED+++

[Toryu]

They had been re-designated already. Richthofen Geschwader was JG 131 before.

[fightersweep]

@Toryu

 

I just ran upstairs to get the decal sheet. Their blurb says "Flown by Uffz Michael Schmid. II / JG 132, Halberstad airfield, June 1939."

[fightersweep]

@Toryu

 

So it seems likely that the decal sheet got it wrong then and that it should be "Red 1"? Shame really as that would have added another splash of colour to the build.

[Johnson]

1 hour ago, fightersweep said:

Even though I couldn't see it with my slightly dodgy eyesight, the photo highlights that I need to trim the aerial wire a bit.

Have you thought about using an Optivisor Steve?

At 65, with decidedly dodgy eyesight, I took the advice of Bill Livingstone here on BM and bought one. It’s transformed my modelling, I now have a really clear view of what I’m doing wrong! 😂

[Toryu]

The Richthofen Geschwader was numbered JG 131, then JG 132 and finally (with the Luftwaffe war reorganisation) JG 2 as of 1 May 1939.

I'm not very conversant with Luftwaffe squadron codes. Looking at picture 2 that I referred above I think it's possible that number 1 is red from a previous Staffel allocation and should have become black after reorganisation, but instead they simply/only over-painted the II. Gruppe bar. I may be wrong, however.

 

Nevermind, your model is great!

[fightersweep]

@Johnson

 

Yes! I must admit that an Optivisor is on my shopping list. My eyesight has gone downhill only in the last few years, and the rapidity of it's decline surprised me a bit. Apparently, I've gone all long sighted.

 

Having said that, there is some merit in my modelling being all blurry as it certainly hides the flaws!

[fightersweep]

@Toryu

 

Thanks! That's handy information. I had a quick Google myself, and it seemed that Luftwaffe units were changing their designations quicker than they could apply the markings at one point. Did I read that they were also JG 141 at one point? I guess if Michael Schmid was in II Staffel, then I guess it should have been Red 1. 

 

Glad you like the build. You said earlier in the thread to make it a good one, so I hope I managed that. I've got the Hellcat to do now, and I may throw in a He-112 in the same splinter scheme with the full party emblem on the tail.

 

Steve

[Bjorn]

That one turned out really nice! Interesting to see something so common as a Bf 109 in such odd shapes and colours! These early ones are seldom seen, I like the mix of an aircraft known from the edge of the jet age, equipped with a two-blade propeller!

[Bengalensis]

Very well done, and in such a short time.

I also like the early versions of these WWII fighters with two bladed propellers, cleaner lines and light loads; reminding of racers.

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

Well this turned out very nice, well done 109. 

[Big Dave S]

That's very nicely done indeed.

[fightersweep]

@Bjorn @Bengalensis @Corsairfoxfouruncle @Big Dave S

 

Thank you gents! Much appreciated. Likewise! I do like the pre-war versions of these fighters. As said, there's something about the two bladed props and clean lines. Ok, the Jumo engined 109s had that big chin intake, but that with the lack of underwing radiators give a sleek, shark like look. I will be building a few more, and the He-112 is next on the list.

[JOCKNEY]

Congratulations Steve, really looks the business, and I can't remember when I last saw a 109 without mottles !

 

Cheers Pat 

[Toryu]

Hi Steve - Just a question regarding Windsor & Newton acrylic varnish. Does it dry out completely? I mean will it be hard enough to withstand finger prints?

 

Thanks, Michael

[fightersweep]

@JOCKNEY Thanks Pat! Much apprecitated! I do like all those early 109 schemes up to the Battle of Britain 70/02/65 colours without the mottling. Not just because it makes my life a bit easier, but those schemes just look so clean and sharp.

 

@Toryu The W&N varnish has dried absolutely fine on all my builds, and other non GB stuff I've built recently. I think I had one kit that I had to leave over night, but all the others have been touch dry in a matter of minutes, and certainly fully cured in hours. I usually do two heavily thinned coats of the varnish over the gloss coat which gives a slight sheen which I quite like. 

[TonyOD]

Great job, very smart that. What's going on with the artwork on the side? I can't quite make it out.

 

I'm interested to see your Humbrol-painted splinter scheme, I'm using the same paints on my Leo and I'm finding there's hardly any contrast between the two dark shades of green whereas yours shows two very different colours. Possibly this is because I got them the wrong way round and used schwarzgrün for the base, which logically would be darker, and may have darkened the dunkelgrün painted on top. Wonder what it'll look like the other side of a coat of Klear or two and an oil wash. (The schwarzgrün I've found needs patience, up to half a dozen liberally thinned coats to get decent coverage!)

[fightersweep]

@TonyOD

 

The artwork appears to be Betty Boop and Mickey Mouse. Not sure what they're doing. I can only assume the pilot was a fan of American cartoons, but then again, Mickey Mouse did seem particularly popular with the Luftwaffe.

 

Not sure on the colours. Different batches perhaps? I did paint the overall upper surfaces RLM 70 first, then masked the camo pattern and added the RLM 71. My paints seem perfect. The RLM 70 covered as seen with two thinned coats and the RLM 71 just needed one thinned coat over the lighter colour. I'll post up some photos of the tins I'm using as ours could be from different years too. Either way, I think I was quite lucky as I like the contrast between the colours I have. I did find that the two colours darkened considerably with a coat of future over the top, but reverted back once the matt varnish had been applied. That's pretty normal for gloss coats though.

 

The only thing I swear by when using my old enamels is an electric paint stirrer. It gets used every time I use a paint and I couldn't do without it. I've found that using the electric stirrer compared to stirring with a stick for example, makes a huge difference and can be the difference between a paint being usable or not usable. Well, that's just my experience anyway.

 

I know when I painted my Ar-196 using the Gloy RLM 72 and 73, there was very little contrast between the two colours, which I believe is correct. I also found some tins of unopened Gloy RLM 70 and 71. Be interesting to pop those open and compare them to the Humbrol authentics.

[TonyOD]

29 minutes ago, fightersweep said:

I did paint the overall upper surfaces RLM 70 first, then masked the camo pattern and added the RLM 71.

 

That is interesting. It's the same way I did it. It's almost like we're using entirely different pains. Humbrol 241 and 242?

 

I mean, my LeO doesn't look bad... but it does look very dark and menacing, and there's a real contrast with the yellow underside.

 

I've just Kleared my Spitfire and as you say it gets alarmingly dark but then behaves itself again with a final matt varnish.

[AdrianMF]

Love your build. I think Heller may have just got another sale!

 

Regards,

Adrian

[fightersweep]

13 minutes ago, AdrianMF said:

Love your build. I think Heller may have just got another sale!

 

Thanks Adrian. I appreciate it. Give the 109B a go. It's a lovely kit, and the recent boxing is excellent. Really cleanly moulded, clear transparencies and a good decal sheet. Well worth £8.99.

 

On 1/24/2021 at 4:09 PM, TonyOD said:

That is interesting. It's the same way I did it. It's almost like we're using entirely different pains. Humbrol 241 and 242?

 

Ah! That could be the difference then. The Humbrol RLM 70 and 71 I'm using are old Authentics dating (I think) from the early 80s. Fabulous paints for hairy stick use.

 

Steve

[TonyOD]

2 minutes ago, fightersweep said:

The Humbrol RLM 70 and 71 I'm using are old Authentics dating (I think) from the early 80s. Fabulous paints for hairy stick use.

Thanks Steve. Mine are (I think) "new". the darker one (Schwarzgruen) in particular is very "gritty". Not easy for brush painting. Anyway after innumerable coats it's now ready for the Dunkelgruen.

[fightersweep]

@TonyOD

 

I bought the range of "new" Humbrol" RLM colours when they first come out, and although I was pleased that Humbrol had tackled these colours, I found them totally unusable with a hairy stick. Several years ago, I started trawling eBay etc for the old enamels such as Humbrol, Gloy, Airfix, DBI, Compucolour etc and I haven't looked back. They say these old paints were formulated for hairy stick users, and I guess they were in the majority years ago when the airbrush was an expensive piece of kit to invest in, but they really do brush beautifully.

 

It didn't take long to build up a stash, and I find them all over the place. Even boot sales can be a good source. Found a guy once who had hundreds of old un-used Humbrols dating from the 70s for 10p each. I bought loads and all were perfect. I even found a Post Office in a local village that had Airfix enamels on his shelf still in the original Airfix trade rack. I negotiated buying the lot off him, and the rack. God knows how long they'd been there! If I can, it's all I use now although it can be frustrating when a paint runs out. Can't pop to the shop to buy these things anymore. Now whether they are "authentic" in their shades is a different matter, as illustrated by the difference between the RLM colours we've used. Who knows. I think my favourite are the old Gloy paints. Always give a lovely smooth coat, sometimes with only one application. Never seem to dry out unlike some paints and every tin I've opened has been perfect. Not bad for 40 year old paints and they smell lush too.

 

Steve

[TonyOD]

@fightersweep That would explain it. They’re a pig to brush! Accuracy? Who knows. I’ve read up a little bit and gather that there was a great deal of variation within these RLM colours. Certainly in many b/w pics of splinter painted aircraft it’s often very hard to make out anything but “dark”.