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HMCS Snowberry 1/144 by Revell (16 years later)


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Looking good Jon, well done so far.

WRT to paint scheme, for my one I used white (Jaimes Colorcoats C03) and as you say, it is a slightly cream off white. As for weathering, you really should have a go at it. I'm very much a novice at it but use Flory products. Water based fine clay, just paint it on (after a gloss sealing coat), wait for it to dry and then carefully rub off with a damp cloth/cotton bud........so easy (and if you mess up you just wash it off with water again.......simples.

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9 hours ago, Starspell said:

Flory products

Steve. I have a couple if those, I’ll investigate further. Not having much luck with online shopping at the mo’. Will probably have to stop soon, and wait for the PE. Which the RM seem to have lost.

Jon

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16 hours ago, Faraway said:

@Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies ok. I shall respray the light grey with the white (it is not a bright white, more a creamy white) and use the blue and green for the camo pattern. I might even respray the red, black ! I am slowing down in the build whilst I wait for the PE (mislaid by the Royal Mail) and the weapons from L’Arsenal (not yet dispatched) You mention weathering. Now that is a subject I really struggle with and have NEVER done it on a ship, so that’ll take a lot of thought. So I really would appreciate guidance on that, because quite frankly, I wouldn’t know where to start.

Jon

 

Hi Jon - for my 2 pennyworth re weathering - I'd check out basic Armour weathering techniques in respect of an enamel wash.  Just buy one grey wash - AK do some specific to ships or a neutral grey Mig Ammo wash AND try some oils, I would buy NO more than 3 - a light rust, a grey and a "dirt" variety.  Mig ammo do "Starship filth", don't be put off by the name.  Das Abteilung oils do Industrial earth.  They'll last you forever.

With the wash you ideally need to use over a gloss surface.  It's worth spraying with Klear floor (possibly no longer available, but search and there are other alternatives that people are using) polish (yes polish) but it's like a satin varnish.  Apply the wash then with a fine brush to guns and superstructure to pick out details.  If you use too much - return after about 15 mins and with a brush or cotton bud dabbed in white spirit remove the excess.  

For the oils, there's a variety of ways to apply and that's why it's worth checking out AFV methods.  For a masterclass in weathering check out @Andy Moore's builds here and on "the Modelling news" website.  For my money he is currently the Weathering guru who consistently turns out masterpieces in Armour and Scifi using Conventional weathering methods.  Mike Rinaldi has made the "oildot rendering" method his own and his work and books exp;ain this in detail.  The trick is to dab very small amounts" of  oil paint with a brush or cocktail stick and then "diffuse" them.  By diffuse I mean either scrub with a dry brush or "streak" with a brush wetted in white spirit.  You can fade with this technique, streak and give texture to otherwise featureless expanses of paint.  The aim is to get very thin layers of oils and slowly build up, especially with the rust!!!  They need to dry a good 12-24 hrs between coats.  Michal has used this technique superbly with his Castle Class Flower build HMCS Copper Cliff - Castle class corvette; White Ensign Models 1/350 which is well worth checking out.

I would practice on an old model first.  If you don't like what you've done, use a cloth or cotton bud soaked in white spirit to lift and clean off the lot.  It's a very forgiving technique and as they say "less is more".  One last practical tip is before you use the oils, dab a blodge onto some cardboard which absorbs the oil leaving you with more pgment to work with.

With respect to @Starspell. I've used the Flory washes and they work well with panel lines, and are easy to clean up, but with ships not having panel lines I think they are less likely to be successful.

The final thing is to check out pics of original ships to see how and where they weathered and got dirty, and to look at other's models and decide who is getting good results and then just plain copy their techniques - which is what I do!!!

That's what this site is all about.

Keep it coming

Rob

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@robgizlu thank you for such a detailed answer, I am learning such a lot since starting this build. Definitely will be getting another ship/boat, I did wonder about.

Revell 1/144 German Submarine TYPE VII C/41 # 05100 - Plastic Model Kit
Sort of Hunter and Hunted.

Back to weathering. Years ago, I used to painted 90mm figures and always used oil paints, much easier to blend, highlight and shade with oils, so I am used to using oils. I do have Burnt Umber and Burnt Sienna oils, which I use for painting wooden propellers on WW1 aircraft, to get wood grain effects, so I think those might be good for representing rust on the ship, what do you think ?
Also, any other ship/boat models you can recommend would be most appreciated.

Jon

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7 minutes ago, Faraway said:

Revell 1/144 German Submarine TYPE VII C/41 # 05100 - Plastic Model Kit

Jon you cant go wrong with the Revell or Italeri submarines they are cheap and good for practise with weathering and trying out a sea base.

 

Some of my early naval attempts on the club stand

 

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Stay Safe

beefy

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Very little progress today, but having received some very expert advice, thanks @Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies I've repainted the light grey with white. Which has come out really well and not as white as I thought it was going to be. Once the white has cured properly, I'll mask it and paint the blue and green patterns for the camo.

Then I'm sort go stuck, the Eduard PE sets from Hannants still show no signs of progressing through the postal system, I've notified Hannants and they have said, I've got to wait until 19th Jan before the delivery is declared lost and I can seek a replacement. Fair enough.

As for the L'Arsenal order, that is still showing as 'being processed', not exactly quick are they, perhaps it'll start on its journey next week. I've contacted them, but my messages (which I know they have read) and emails go unanswered. Bit irritated with that, they have got my money, I want my bits. If it's something to do with us, no longer, being in the EU you'd like to think they'd let me know.

Just ignore me, I dislike people who ignore questions, I'm a bit hacked off, so having a bit of a vent.

So, camo tomorrow and then I'll post some piccies.

Jon

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Good afternoon fellow BMers.

Painted the two colours of camo today, covered well with just a little bleed under the tape. No matter how much I push the tape into the detail, a little bit of paint gets under, so a little bit of touching up.

Not made my mind up yet about over painting the red on the hull, with black

Dry fitted the deck, funnel and deck house to get an idea what the ship will look like, quite pleased with progress so far. But, until the PE etc arrives I think I'll stop at the point. I can't really build anymore, because a lot of the parts have PE on them.

Jon.

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51 minutes ago, Faraway said:

Not made my mind up yet about over painting the red on the hull, with black

Gidday Jon, If the underwater hull has been demonstrated to be black, then I'd suggest you do it if you can, before much else is done to the build. You might regret it later if you don't. But, your decision of course. Either way I think the model is going to look very well done once you've finished. Regards, Jeff.

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38 minutes ago, ArnoldAmbrose said:

Gidday Jon, If the underwater hull has been demonstrated to be black, then I'd suggest you do it if you can, before much else is done to the build. You might regret it later if you don't. But, your decision of course. Either way I think the model is going to look very well done once you've finished. Regards, Jeff.

Jeff. I’ve been giving the hull a bit of thought, and am leaning towards repainting it black. A task for tomorrow.

Jon

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What Ho folks.

Well I've done it, the red is now black which makes the paint work more historically accurate and if I'm honest, looks better.

My thanks to all of you who shared your opinions and knowledge.

I'm always open to hearing from you all.

But, now I am going to have to stop, until the extra parts I've ordered arrive, and that is in the lap of the gods, the Royal Mail (who have a tendency to loose parcels) and a French company (who I've never dealt with before, but who seem very slow at dispatching orders)

See you all, hopefully, soon.

Jon

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You know, it has just occurred to me ?

 16 years ago I started the 1/72 edition of this model, using PE, only having to stop, because I developed an allergic reaction to CA glue. Now, I’m having to stop, not because I can’t GLUE the PE, but because I can’t GET the PE. Let’s hope the Royal ######### Mail pulls its finger out and delivers before the next 16 years elapses.

Ain’t life odd sometimes.

Jon

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2 minutes ago, Iceman 29 said:

Where did you order in France?

http://www.larsenal.com/?PGFLngID=1
I placed the order on 31st December I was fully aware that they didn’t open until 4th January. But I would have thought the order would be on its way by now. They do have my money.

Jon

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2 minutes ago, Iceman 29 said:

Indeed, it is sometimes very long, I no longer order from them.

Pascal.

Thank you for the information, do you know what their usual delivery time is ?

Jon

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2 months the last time... It was a simple generic plate of PE ladders. Ordered Sept 18, 2020, received Nov 24, 2020...

 

In the end, as the order didn't arrive and it delayed the project, I ordered again it directly to White ensign (Tom's Modelworks) where I usually order, it arrived in 10 days from the USA, and cheaper. Well I have it in duplicate now, but I often use it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Good evening my fellow BMers.

After a brief foray with a Russian Cruiser (pre WW1)

I’m back to the Snowberry build. I have all the PE I need and probably some I’ll not use (always seems to be the way with PE). Anyway, I spent most of the day assembling two depth charge racks in PE. Very fiddly.
No photos today, but I’ll post some tomorrow.

I’ve been searching for a good reference for the ‘rigging’, but so far it has eluded me, any of you got a source for this would be most appreciated. 
Also, does anyone know what the three ‘barrels’ in a cage, on top of the depth charge racks are ?

Jon

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12 hours ago, Faraway said:

Also, does anyone know what the three ‘barrels’ in a cage, on top of the depth charge racks are ?

Smoke generators, I believe.

Jon

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Good afternoon, it has been a lovely sunny day here, but I think it's going to be a cold night. 

Anyway, as promised here is a little bit of progress. I've glazed the portholes with Ammo MIG Crystal Glass, you have to look closely, but they do look like there is glass in the holes, better than just a hole. Then fitted the decks and added PE gunwale supports. And then I've built the two depth charge racks (much fiddly) and a small ladder. The PE from Eduard is, this time, compared to the PE for the 'protected cruiser' much less fragile and stands up to bending better. Funnel assembly finished with PE ladder and railings and guy ropes.

I have a sort of love/hate relationship with PE, I love the effects you get from it, but hate the bendy fiddle it is and don't get me started on the gluing together.

Finally today, I've borrowed a technique from @robgizluto try and represent the clinker build of the life boats. A real challenge, but he is right, it makes a huge difference. Thanks Rob, I hope you don't mind me pinching this idea. 

I'm flitting about on this build and not exactly following the instruction sequence, but it is coming together quite well. Hopefully be back tomorrow.

Jon.

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I've finished taping both lifeboats, so will be on to assembly and painting later today maybe. Depth charge racks painted and fitted, might add a bit of rust later.

I didn't notice the bent leg, until I posted this, bugger.

Jon

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Hi Jon - delighted you've used the "clinker" technique and you've made a better job of it than I did.

Your PE work is excellent - that Depth charge rack was never easy and I'd take the cowards way out nowadays and grab one from Micromaster or Black Cat models.

My next tip is to grab some Bob's Buckles  which will make all fo the rigging including the funnel stays that much easier.

Your build is really impressive :clap2:

Rob

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