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V2 Rocket at White Sands, a triple build


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After my last build that took a long time to complete, I decided to tackle something a “little less stressful”. I had been doing quite a bit of reading up on the V2 test program conducted post war in the USA at White Sands. I had a few variants in my stash so decided to build three at once.

 

Working left to right

1.       Takom 1-35th kit with a Kora models WAC Corporal second stage, Built as Bumper 5 which at the time of its flight set a new altitude record of 248 miles

2.       Pegasus Models kit 1-48th scale, built as test flight No13, which is credited with taking the first picture of the earth from outer space

3.       Kora Models 1-72nd, Built as test flight No47 which was one of the Blossom series of rocket that had a lengthened body which was to accommodate a parachute recovery system for experiment retrieval

 

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I got hold of a copy of this book by Peter Alway as a guide to colour schemes, it’s a great resource

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First one on the bench was the Pegasus Models, the kit is designed as a snap together kit with no glue required. The mouldings are crisp and the fit is surprisingly good. It lacks a little detail and has a slightly “chunky” look to it.

Parts all cleaned up and ready for assembly, the main body has already been snapped together

 

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The main section of the airframe required a bit of work at the seam line. I went with applying some sprue goo, and was then that I found that the plastic used in this kit may be ABS as it is nearly impervious to most types of glues and solvents, and the sprue goo just laid on the surface and peeled off

A mixture of thin CA and Acrylic nail powder did the trick

 

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A template was made up for use in re drilling the rivet holes

 

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There were far too many panel lines at the top, remedied with some perfect plastic putty

 

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Next up was the tail section, the two small seams received the same treatment of gap fill with CA and Acrylic mix, a rescribe followed by the drilling of the rivet detail

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And a few dabs of perfect plastic putty at the fin roots was all that was needed

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It’s at this point where the engineer in me gets going and for no better reason than I can I start to tinker. Rather than just gluing the thing together a few mods are done and now the rocket is modular

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To assemble it a couple of small screws, secure the joining section to the main airframe, and then the central screw in the tail section is screwed home into the tapped hole in the joining section

The tinkering does have a few advantages inasmuch as it saves a bit of masking and makes the painting of the model a wee bit easier.

 

 

 

 

The next job was to tackle the firing table, this being the support frame that the rocket was stood on when it was launched. The one supplied with the kit is a representation of a type that was used during the rockets development stage in Germany during the war, and not the table that was used to launch the V2’s across the English Channel, and also used at White Sands.

 

The kit supplied table

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A 3d render of the later table

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So out came the saws and files and knives……………….

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Base all squared up and a new undersection with tabs to complete the square ready to be epoxied into place

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Start made on the support legs

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Out came the trusty Dremel to mill the profile in the leg supports

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Completed legs

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Next the top deck pattern drawn out and attached to a sheet of styrene ready for cutting out

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Next up was the gearwheel, a pattern drawn and attached to a disc of styrene. Set up on the Dremel with a slit saw to cut the teeth

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The finished article in place on the table

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Edited by TimT64
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A fit check with the tail section

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Brass rod bent to shape in a jig for the final details

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Top deck details all completed and in place

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And the final pieces were the gearboxes and cranking handles for the table levelling mechanisms added to the legs

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That pretty much wrapped up the mods to the table. It looks a little “chunky” at scale, but it is a closer representation of the thing used for the flight being depicted, so pretty happy with how it turned out

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I had up to this point in my return to modelling been using a H&S ultra with mainly Vallejo paints. I had been really struggling with that combination. I decided to change tack and bought an Iwata HP-CS and gave Tamiya Acrylics a bash. So far everything has been going really well. I’m chuffed as I was getting to the stage where I wasn’t looking forward to painting anything

 

The table with a coat of UMP primer

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The only other mod that has been done to the kit is the addition of some 3d printed ducts on the tail section. The real deal has 4 ducts at positions at the base between the fins and the kit only comes with one duct. Over the last couple of years, I have learnt how to draw up some basic bits and pieces in fusion 360, and send the files away for printing. As of yet not invested in a printer as I think it would become too much of a distraction for me and eat up the somewhat limited time, I have for making models.

A render of the ducts

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Ducts as received, and the tailfin with ducts added

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The Pegasus was put to one side and a start was made on the Takom. The main section had a little mismatch so it glued some line up strips to hold it better in line during gluing, a bit of overkill in retrospect but it gave less seam work to do as I wanted to preserve as much of the rivet detail as possible

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Body glued and seams dealt with, I must say that there was a good join with minimal filler needed

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The poison of choice lately for this kind of work has been this knifing putty from Holts, have found it is great stuff to work with, it sticks really really well, sands easily and is good to scribe.

 

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Then on to the tail section, really nice detail on the fins. A good fit all round with only a minimum of filling required at the fin roots

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Now came the time to chop off the top of the main airframe to accept the resin WAC Corporal second stage

Marking the cut line, 20mm removed

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The cut was made and the resin part trial fitted. It was then that I found that the model was 1mm or so out of round and the resin part was a little mis-shapen as well. I tried to match and shape the resin part to the kit, but made a right pig’s ear of it so I put it aside for a while.

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The Kora resin kit as received, a lot of flash and pour plugs to be removed

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Working on the main airframe section

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The two halves were glued and when I started the seam works, they kept splitting and cracks would appear, so some drastic action was needed. The whole thing was filled with alternating layers of epoxy and foam sponge.

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A fair amount of filling, sanding, spot priming and repeating was needed to knock it into some sort of acceptable shape.

 

Then onto the firing table, a fair amount of fettling needed

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Fins attached and most of the filling and re-scribing done

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Then time to hop back to the Takom, and another deviation into tinkerland. This time I decided to hold the thing together with magnets.

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A bulkhead for the tail section knocked up, the stand was for it to locate within the section and hold it square whilst it was glued

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Joining section all ready

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Bulkhead in place in the tail section

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On the “real” rocket there is a cover strip bolted into place to cover the join line of the two fuselage halves, one each side. It can be seen on the image here, and is just to the right of the model join line. For some reason Takom have only included one on the model

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To correct the omission a strip of thin styrene with some rivet holes was added to the opposite side. It would have been a nice touch if Takom had moulded the model with the split line at this area and then supplied a couple of covers separately to cover the seam.

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After avoiding the issue with the Wac Corporal second stage I decided to have a bash at designing and having my own version printed.

I went for two variants, one that was circular, and one that started as an oval at the base and progressively getting to a round section at the top of the curved piece. This was done in an attempt to have it fit the model better. It took a fair amount of calculation with a trusty excel spreadsheet to get the progression form oval to round section

 

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A render of the two, the one to the right is the oval one

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The two were duly printed, and as expected the oval one was the best fit. Here the round one was cleaned up and primed to see if a decent finish could be achieved. You can see on the unfinished one has few bumps and ridges from the printing. These were removed with minimal sanding

 

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If anyone has an interest in the STL file for this, message me and I will send a copy to you.

 

 

The stage has then been attached with a screw whilst it was aligned, as I was fed up with it falling off all the time, it will also help to hold it where I want it whilst the glue is curing when it is finally fixed in place.

 

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Lined up and ready to glue, will just need a wee bit of filler to tidy up the seam

 

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This is as far as i have got, late Dec 2020, just got to paint and decal them up, and decide on a display

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I was looking at my references and realised that I had missed an important piece of detail from the Pegasus model. It is being built as Flight number 13, the one credited with having taken the first picture of the earth from space. Doh!!!  it needs a camera which I had totally forgotten.

A camera housing, with lens was built and attached to the model with a small piece of aluminium rod.

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Work started on making decals for the Takom as the ones i had needed some rework. I had some decal printing paper that was for Inkjet paper, and I can say conclusively it doesn’t work with a laser printer. Didn’t expect it to, but you never know, it printed ok but when dipped in water and applied some of the ink washed off. Maybe it could be sealed in with some liquid decal film, but as I now have a laser printer, I thought I might as well go with appropriate paper. Duly purchased a couple of sheets of white and the same of clear and carried out some tests.

I picked up a great tip from a real space modeller called Mike Makowski, you may know him as the guy who produces a series of guides to building spacecraft called the SIM (Space in Miniature) series.

The tip being that you just tape a piece of decal paper big enough for the decal to a sheet of plain paper and print away. Brilliant idea that saves so much decal paper.

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There was a set of decals provided with the Kora Models WAC Corporal resin kit. I had previously scanned them with the intention of printing a set off onto plain paper and cutting them out to trial fit them. This was done and they were not the best of fits, the longer vertical stripes were 23mm too short, and the circumferential bands were pretty close, but needed the odd tweak.

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This posed a bit of a dilemma as I am not really up to speed with using Inkscape, and currently don’t have a CAD program to draw some new ones up. Then I started playing about with Microsoft Paint 3d, I haven’t used paint in years, and certainly the first time I had used this version. Very pleasantly surprised at what you can do with it.

 

Using something called magic Select it is possible to remove sections of the scan, and then resize, recolour, etc.

Image below has the vertical strips lifted from the original and ready to resize

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Then I tried it with a photograph I had taken of another decal sheet, and it works just as well with photos as it does with scans. Brilliant bit of kit. Not saying it is the only, or best answer to making decals, but a good one to have in the toolbox

Images on the left have been lifted from the photo on the right

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A bit more progress on the Takom, finally got the area where the kit and the printed WAC corporal join into a good place. It took about five rounds of fill, sand, prime and check to get it there. Thought I had it on the fourth go as it looked Ok under the workbench light. When I was packing up and turned off the workbench light, I looked at it again under the room light and a nasty looking “groove” appeared as if by magic. I decided to try something a little bit different to my usual approach on the fifth go, I just piled some filler straight on top of the primer instead of sanding the primer off and then applying filler. It worked a treat to my surprise as I thought the filler would not key to the primer well. I really am impressed with the Holts Cataloy knifing putty I have started to use, added bonus is that it is as cheap as chips at about £2.50 a tube.

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Then I had a mini disaster, on the way to the paint shop I dropped the 1-72nd Kora, its resin and two of the fins snapped off, so back to the body shop for that one

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In between times a few more coats of white paint have gone on to the “Albino” Lightning, this is going to be the mule for the clearcoats, weathering and decaling.

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And few more experiments for the decals, I have been trying out the new decal paper for the laser printer. I decided to get a piece of styrene and make some rivet runs to see how the decals would settle down, and also how they would react to different combinations of fluids.

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The upshot of all that was that if decals are printed on the clear paper, they need a coat of decal film applying prior to application as it is very delicate. The decals printed onto the white paper a pretty bombproof from the word go. The decals were applied with Microset allowed to dry, then Microsol applied, and Microsol again after a drying time. They all fared really well apart from the clear one that had not be firstly treated with Decal film, they settled down pretty well into the rivet holes. As a further test just to see what would happen, I applied a liberal dose of Tamiya X20A thinners with no ill effects. The next real test will be to try them on the Albino Lightning on top of some paint or maybe a clearcoat.

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Not much progress this week apart from more decal making and tests. The "Albino" lightning has been used as the test subject. I have tried two different types of decal papers, both reputedly for laser printers, and the instructions supplied with one of them indicated that the use of a fixative may be beneficial. As you can probably see in the photo below Microscale Decal fix and Microscale Micro Set come in fiendishly similar bottles, one is very benign to the paint job, the other acts like a supercharged paint stripper!!!!!!.

 

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The decals on the underside of the wings have been applied directly onto the Tamiya acrylic paintwork, and then subjected to chemical attacks of varying forms.

What i have taken away from this so far is that Micro Set and Microsol seem pretty safe to work with on the Tamiya paint. If they are used to excess there is some "staining" visible around the decal area. I have been trying  a load of different printer settings, and in some cases have tried running a design through the printer twice to see if i could make a decal more opaque, this seemed to work to an extent, but very hit and miss with the lineup. My printer definitely seems to produce more consistent results if it has had a "warm up" with a couple of test prints before running the decal paper through. 

I have had reasonable success with getting the decals to settle into panel lines with repeated applications of Microset, they definitely seem to be settled well on to the surface as i can see still my rough paint job !!

I did try cutting some black stripes directly from a black block, using a new Exacto, in an attempt to make a decal that has no clear film at the edge. No success so far as  the knife breaks up the ink, so it looks as if cutting as close to the edge of the colour is the way to go at the minute. I did try abusing a couple of them with a liberal dose of Tamiya X20-A, not for the faint hearted considering its the thinner used for the paintjob, i does work, but does tend to leave a more pronounced stain around the decal.

 

I would like to try another make of decal softener that is more aggressive than micro Set if any one could suggest one   

 

I have tried placing a couple of decals on the rocket engine bell you can see behind the plane, these was painted with Tamiya acrylics, then a coat of Winsor & Newton gloss varnish. Just wanted to see how the W&N would react with the decal solutions. So far in smallish doses the Microset has no effect on it. The Microsol when applied to it turned it a milky colour, and i thought oh dear that's not so clever, but when the Microsol dries the varnish reverted to the gloss finish 

 

The next stage will be to give the wings a clearcoat to see if the staining and the clear film are hidden. 

 

One new tip that i picked up from watching a few you tube videos was to use a makeup sponge to press down on the decal when it is in it final position, so far have found this a far better method than using a q-tip or a tissue

Edited by TimT64
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In my first spell of model making I (a long time ago) I didn’t really know about, or attempt any weathering, so all this is a bit new to me. You tube wasn’t about then, so these days it is a bonus that there is a goldmine of information there. But there is a rider inasmuch that sometimes there is a lot of conflicting information out there and sometimes you can be left confused as to what will or won’t work. I’ve reconciled myself to the point of view that watching a lot of videos on certain subjects will give me some ideas of how to go about things, then it’s a case of testing and experimenting to see what works for me.

 

Before I started these builds, I did a lot of googling and looking at other peoples builds and how they finished their V2’s and they ranged from simple pin washes to pre-shading with mist coats. Being my first go I am going the simple route and am following Andy’s Hobbies build. That being a bit of dry brushing on the firing table and some panel line accent added to the rocket stage.

 

 All of the testing and fiddling about I have posted here has been done with achieving that finish. The only real decision to make now is to decide when to add the decals in the sequence. There are some more tests with the varnish side of things, including some VMS varnish. I’ve heard some very good words said about it, including that it sprays straight out of the bottle, no messing with thinning and retarders etc. I also want to try and find a more “aggressive” decal softener.

 

Where I am at so far with all of this is that so far when used in moderation, and in varying combinations, all of the products in the picture below have done the job as advertised and have not had any adverse reactions with each other

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The top side of the wing was glossed and then black and grey panel line accents added. The grey is quite subtle, the black very brutal against the white. The W&N low odour thinners works a treat for cleaning up unwanted panel line accent. That was after I discovered the knack of not using much at all, being patient and waiting for the panel accent to nearly dry, and scrubbing away at smudges with a tissue very slightly dampened with the thinner

 

A closer view of the wing, including bits of errant fluff. Since i initially sprayed the wings i have tweaked the paint/thinner ratio of the and have managed to get a nicer finish. Currently at 70% thinner 30% paint and a drop of Tamiya retarder per 5ml of the mix. 

 

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This looks like serious stuff. You've obviously done your research. The launch platform is pretty impressive  as are the rockets.

I'll have to look out for the Holts stuff, that's cheaper than PPP. And it seems to be better.

Nice tip on the make up sponge. I have a few (No, please don't ask :laugh: ).

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8 minutes ago, Pete in Lincs said:

This looks like serious stuff. You've obviously done your research. The launch platform is pretty impressive  as are the rockets.

I'll have to look out for the Holts stuff, that's cheaper than PPP. And it seems to be better.

Nice tip on the make up sponge. I have a few (No, please don't ask :laugh: ).

The nice lady in boots did wink at me when i bought them and said well you never know these days..................................

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  • 2 weeks later...

Made some more progress over the last week or so

As there is going to be lots of black and white in various combinations on the three models a quick dry run with the Albino lightning, and hey presto part of it is now the Zebra Lightning.

Also played around with laying down coats of Winsor & Newton varnishes. Tried the Matt, gloss and the Satin. So far all is good with them, particularly impressed with the matt

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To help with a more accurate and consistent set up with spraying pressures i have cobbled together this set up. The gauge is accurate to 0.5PSI. I install it to set up the pressure, and it is on quick connects so it is removed when i start spraying. 

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I managed to get hold of a copy of this DVD, there are some good film clips packed with loads of good information and references

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Now at the stage where it’s time to start thinking about getting the black sections painted. With the help of Excel and some screen shots the dimensions of the pattern were worked out as ratios. Then the model is measured, and using the ratios from the pattern calculated to a dimension applicable for the model

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All set and ready to go for a masking session

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The boat tail was masked and sprayed

 

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And then time to unmask and see if it all worked out ok…….

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All good, just a few minor repairs needed

 

Then it was time to tackle the Bumper, I did mention before that I thought the decals supplied with the Kora aftermarket WAC were not quite correct to scale. In particular it was the long thin stripes that run the length of the rocket. Just by looking at photos of the real thing and comparing that to the decals they looked too short. The red band in the image below is where top band would be if the Kora decals were used. A quick check on Scalemates shows that they were produced for the Revell 1/35th so that may account for the discrepancy.

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I also needed to carry out the calculation for the vertical dimensions of the black and white sections on the tail fins. So out came the trusty excel spreadsheet, and basically printed out a screen grab of the graphics, measured all the dimensions. A table is made containing the dimensions. Then each dimension is turned into a ratio of the overall length. Then a second table is then made for the model and the known dimensions are put in, and are also expressed as ratios. The only gaps in the model table now are the dimensions that will determine the decal and painting demarcation lines. These can now be calculated. The easiest way I can explain this is to work through one example, that being the height of the top band from the mid-section datum line. I know the distance measured on the printout was 84mm which works out as 33.1% of the overall measured length of 253.5mm. The model measures in at 514mm, and 33.1% of that is 162mm. This was repeated for the rest of the missing dimensions. A further “sanity” check was done using a table from an old model rocketeer magazine. This table has taken dimensions from 13 different sources, compared them and produced a “Recommended Dimensions for all V2 Models” column. These were expressed as 1-35th and then compared to the Takom sizes, they were all pretty much within a couple of mm or so, the only slight difference was the profile of the fins, but nothing too far off.

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The important dimensions were plucked from the morass of numbers and placed onto one handy graphic

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Is all of this completely necessary, probably not, I could probably have just looked at it and used the mk1 eyeball to get it somewhere in the ballpark. But it is something I enjoy doing, and when your eye tells you something is amiss and you can prove it by calculation, I think it is a worthwhile exercise

Masking and painting next up

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The boatail was a wee bit grainy here and there as can be seen, this was down to the white coat. I will give it a fettle up prior to the clearcoats

Overall, it turned out really well apart from the white paint peeling off in a couple of areas when the masking was removed. This was totally down to me and overzealous masking, wrapping to many layers of tape around a sharp fin edge.

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So off to the repair shop, luckily both were in small areas where a single panel could be sanded, masked and repainted.

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Whilst the primer was drying the WAC second stage needed some detailing, a black tip and one black fin were needed

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Hi, l did one in 1/72  and used the decals from an IPMS sheet. There was a 1/48 version as well on the sheet. PM me if you are interested in it.

 

Regards

Robert

 

 

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5 hours ago, Eric Mc said:

Professional standard of work.

 

Do you do this for a living?

Thanks Eric, No in abswer to your question, lol if i did i think i would starve to death before i got the first paycheck

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3 hours ago, Robert said:

Hi, l did one in 1/72  and used the decals from an IPMS sheet. There was a 1/48 version as well on the sheet. PM me if you are interested in it.

 

Regards

Robert

 

 

 

Love your version, top job

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18 hours ago, TimT64 said:

Thanks Eric, No in abswer to your question, lol if i did i think i would starve to death before i got the first paycheck

True, you'll never get rich building models.

 

You work to a very high standard, not just of building but also the underlying research.

 

 

Edited by Eric Mc
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Bumper 5 & Number 13 had been receiving a lot of attention lately, and since the RUD incident No 47 was feeling a bit left out.

The fins were reattached, and some of the scribe lines were filled and redone and it was painted white.

The same jiggery pokery as used for the Bumper with an excel spreadsheet was employed to produce a set of dimensions for masking up to paint the black & silver sections

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The Silver was painted first, using Vallejo White Aluminium. I know that Vallejo paints are like marmite, and certain sections of the modelling fraternity seem to absolutely detest them. I like the metallic range and they serve a purpose for me.

The nosecone masked and painted

 

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Of the three models this is definitely the “weakest” of the three in terms of finish. Partly down to the quality of the kit, and partly down to my current skillset. It’s the first “full” resin kit I have tackled, learnt a lot and think I can definitely turn out improved work in the future.

This is the Blossom variant of the V2 and differs from the standard V2 by the addition of an extension to the fuselage. It was lengthened by an amount that was the same as one diameter. This extra length was used to install a parachute recovery system. Flight 47, or to give it the full title Blossom IV-B also carried a monkey onboard, called Albert II.

If I was to build this variant again, I think I would use the Revell 1-72nd kit and graft an extra section into the main fuselage. I do have a Revell kit and it is very well detailed and looks like a nice kit to build.

If you are looking for information and references about the White Sands program, I can highly recommend the Beggs Aerospace website called postwarv2  http://www.postwarv2.com/

 

The bottom section masked up and painted

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In between times some more work on the Takom-Bumper 5. The second stage WAC also has a silver stripe on it. One edge is close to the spin motor cowlings, and coupled with the fact there are two cable ducts in the area as well masking it successfully looks very tricky. I decided to see what a decal would look like instead. I have a spare WAC, so duly printed off some stripes and had a play. By the third attempt it looked OK, so I think that’s the way I will go with.

 

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The aft section has had the repairs done to the white areas that peeled from the unmasking, just a couple of minor touch up to the black areas and it will be ready for a coat of varnish

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Been pretty much hopping between the three models over the last ten days and here is where I am at.

No47 has had the decals applied, and a coat or two of Winsor & Newton Galeria. I am pretty happy with the Galeria and have got the hang of using the Matt and the Satin. The gloss is a different story, as of yet every time I used it I made a right pigs ear of it, good job it was on the test model

 

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Hopped across the No13, this was dirtied a little with some panel line wash, I used Tamiya grey panel line accent

 

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The firing tables had a slight amount of weathering. Just a little bit of dry brushing, and few faint streaks added to the tapered sections. It has just broken up the uniform grey.

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The B-5 decals added to the Bumper, and a coat off matt clear

 

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No13 with the camera reinstalled, and a coat of satin, is pretty much finished

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As I have touched on previously the aftermarket decals I had for the Bumper were originally designed for a different kit, so some tweaking was required. It has “forced” me into learning how to use Inkscape to a higher level. Previously I had only used it for importing, resizing and reprinting stuff. Now getting up to speed with a few more basic functions, and so managed to import a scan of the decals. Then trace them and pull out the single piece I wanted to modify.

In this shot the original is the bottom stripe, the new larger one above. Some of my methods are a little unconventional for resizing, still learning.

 

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 I then printed the new stripe, but unfortunately, I still am getting a few erratic results when printing larger black areas. I did invest in some microscale clear decal paper, and luckily on a whim I also bought a couple of sheets of matt black trim film. Using the “failed” decal I had printed as a pattern and a new one was cut from the sheet of trim film

 

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Setup and ready to go for the Bumper stripes

 

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Horizontal stripes applied to the boat tail and main sections, only leaving the vertical stripes to go

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Vertical stripes being applied. They were also cut from the Microscale trim film. Through all of this I have been using Microset when initially applying the decal, and the UMP decal setting solutions to get them to conform. I cannot speak highly enough of the UMP solutions. The extra strong is very aggressive, but in no way has it damaged the paintwork or the varnish.

 

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So that has nearly wrapped things up on the rockets, just a few minor dings here and there to repair, a bit of clearcoat and they are done. The firing table on the Bumper still needs a tad of work.

 

Here they are

 

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