1/16 WPL B-16 r/c to CDN army MLVW conversion

[busnproplinerfan]

I don't build armour or most military stuff to start with. I saw the WPL rig and figured I'd go out on a limb for models. After shopping around a bit I found this and the MAN 6x6 called a JJRC Q64 for my cousin because we got a good deal on two. I should've went to WPLs website to start with, their customer service is excellent. This truck is basically an M35. I was looking at making this into a Vietnam gun truck. I saw a set of 3D printed wheels that are very close but they were available then not, now they are back again on evilbay out of Minnesota. The problem with setting up the duals is they stick out one whole tyre width from the body. Also there are no U.S. style army tyres that fit these rims. Duals could be put on but for a correct look, you have to cut down the differentials by the width of the tyres. I decided to build the M35 in 1/35 or scratchbuild one in 1/25. I decided why not make the Canadian army MLVW(Medium Logistics Vehicle Wheeled). It's basically an M35 with the M34 singles wheels and under body exhaust. The original crawler tyres are to big but the rims can pass on the truck with bolt detail added. The original locking rims were replaced in the early '90s and replaced with a bolted wheel for safety. I saw the aluminum six hole wheels and thought they'd look good and I could back date the truck. The holes are a bit larger but will work for an RC. The tyres that come with these also are much skinnier and not as soft. Plus all this adds a lot of weight over the plastic parts.

 

I decided to use a lot of the aluminum aftermarket parts. The basic truck is fine for just running around. I'm not a serious crawler but I want this to run and not breakdown. Most of the parts are coming from Shenzen China so it takes 3-4 weeks to get it delivered. I have most of the suspension in metal now, waiting on the rear suspension and brass gears. I accidently ordered a metal kit for the two axled truck instead of the three axled one. I ended up ordering a few more diffs and found wheel sets by the pair.

You can see the original motor rear frame cross member and steering servo.

I did order from WPL, the Res V3 remote with comes with the 370 motor, speaker, variable steering, receiver, throttle and winch. Just make sure you order the steering servo that goes with it.

I will be ordering amber and red LEDs for additional lights, it only has headlights now. I will be shortening the cab to the correct length, no truck like this had a long cab. The rear body will be made new since it has to be lengthened anyway. I thought it would be easier to scratchbuild the box instead of modifying the original. The spare tyre unit behind the cab has never existed on these trucks. I also need to make new mirrors  with LED marker lights.

The green colour is the hardest to figure out. The green should be Nato green but it's very dark and the real paint faded very quickly. Since I can't go to most hobby shops in person, I was looking online at the paint colour options and the look on the screen can't be trusted. I was thinking on Humbrol 102 army green . I just have one can and likely will need another one. From that I'll add some weathering.

[Wm Blecky]

Tamiya makes a NATO green color (along with NATO black and NATO brown):\

 

acrylic

lacquer

 

 

 

[busnproplinerfan]

Thanks, I didn't know about nato brown. I want the colour faded but this might help. I tried vallego medium olive but it's way to light, can't go into stores to see the stuff before you buy it.

[busnproplinerfan]

Found out I have the wrong paint. I tried Vallejos medium olive but they have two with the same name except one is vallejo air. I have to wait for this one to get ordered in now. Be a couple of weeks.

[busnproplinerfan]

Bit more done. Started making the new box. Found some good walk around pictures online and eyeballing it a bit. I had some problem with the electronics and after unplugging everything I accidentally plugged the battery in backwards and screwed the receiver, so I had to order another one.

[busnproplinerfan]

Little bit more done. Made the canvas top hooks from small wire. They were put through holes I drilled in the sides and in the floor. I put the holes in the floor to anchor the hooks. I wanted them to actually hold the top on later without glue which never works on metal. The round things are tie downs for inside the box. I didn't super detail them but got the basics done. Those and the reflectors were punched out from sheet using a hole punch. The chains are necklace chain and the covers on them is masking tape rolled on the chain. Still have the hinges for the sides, some framing underneath, mudflaps and top bows. Hopefully all in the next day or so.

[busnproplinerfan]

The bottom side of the box is done. I'm using the original frame screws for holing it down. The floor bracing should be channel but the correct size doesn't fit so I made the braces from rectangle stock. The mudflaps are black dishwashing glove rubber. I made the raised lines on the metal mudflaps with half round strips. The other side has ruts cut into the in line with the half round.

 

[busnproplinerfan]

Made the exhaust today. It's pretty close from the pictures I have. Had to make sure it cleared all the screws. The exhaust should be higher up but I need to keep the screws clear. Also I can't mount the spare tyre here because the transmission is so big. The tyre lies horizontally under the muffler. I will just make the mount for it.

[busnproplinerfan]

Working on the stake side. using music wire  instead of the correct top bows. The bows should be flat strips. I had wanted to go with flat brass bars with brass pins going into the body like the sides are here. Problem is I can't get the size brass anymore. K&S used to have but the only ones I found was on ebay at about $26 each and I needed five. I instead went with music wire. The sides will be made with plastic strips, the actual trucks used wood but plastic is easier to work with. I also made a fuel tank and had to lengthen the mudflap behind it.

Here's the wire bent around, it wasn't to easy to keep them bent mostly the same.,

Here is the bed done. The mudflaps are black rubber from a set of dishwashing gloves. They are a bit hard to cut straight but sure like CA glue.

Started on the cab. Filled all the huge panel lines and various holes that aren't needed. The door outline has to be redone and the window is to short, so it has to be made longer.

[busnproplinerfan]

More cab work done. The exterior bodywork is done. Filled and scribed new door lines. Filled the signal light holes, made a new visor. Made the whole interior (except the steering wheel) and wheel wells. I built a platform to go under the circuit board mostly to protect the underhood from water and dirt. Also a place to mount the on/off switch. The driver had is a standard gijoe. I had to cut his boots down a bit to make him fit at the toe boards. The head came from another. Had to use the cut off disc to cut away portions of his thighs to make his legs pull up more and stay closer together. I then ran two wires over his thighs to tie him down to the seat. I didn't want to but couldn't keep the flat floor. The motor is to tall. So I made cardbord box that was shoved into the space under the dash. I found some 10mm soft white LEDs to use for the headlights which will fit the space of the originals. The originals are ok, but because they are so small to the openings they bugged me.

Here I made windshield cranks and mounting for the interior which will screw in. The front will be held down with the piece between the wheel wells. The wheel wells are very visable so they had to be made along with a dummy steering box.

 

[dnl42]

This is different. You're doing a fine job converting this into a far more accurate model! 

[busnproplinerfan]

11 hours ago, dnl42 said:

This is different. You're doing a fine job converting this into a far more accurate model! 

Thanks dnl, I want it to look like a regular model.

[busnproplinerfan]

It took some time but i got the top made. It's made from a cotton shirt I found at the second hand store. It's a bit darker than I want and the Modelair paint I picked is a bit dark also. So hard to order paints online from the store when you can't go in the store. I want it a bit more faded looking but just have enamel that's close. I made the pattern and had my mum sew it at work but the sewing machine is to aggressive and she had to rush it before the boss came around. I sewed the ends on by have and she did the rear flap and the hem. It's just tied on for now to test out how to tie it on and see how it fits. Not sure if I should iron it, I don't have a steamer and a steamer could melt the plastic.

Here I'm building the winch. I'm not putting on all the mounting parts that come with the factory winch. It just won't look right. I picked up another front crossmember in aluminum. I put it just in front (green one)of the other existing one. I had to butcher a larger opening so the winch could sit recessed in the frame. There will be sheet plastic on top and bottom to help hold the winch in. I also had to extend the frame and that crossmember turned out to be the right length. The bumper will still screw in but I had to drill new holes in the bumper mounting. The cable is Northern Braid 40 lb fishing line which looks like cable. I just painted it lightly with steel, military brown and some green. The chain is a necklace and the hook came with the truck. I have metal hooks but they are twice the size. The bumper holes have to be filled. It's got some kind of plating on it just like the wheels but does take paint well.

Here's the new wheel wells, mounting, interior tub and battery box. Also the fenders had to be lengthened. The interior is screwed in so it can be removed if I ever need to. The flat sheet on the frame is to help keep water and dirt out around the circuit board.

Most of the Canadian trucks had a roof rack so I decided to put one on. Door handles are made as is the left step and all the white plastic parts you see. The jerry can is metal I found on evilbay, it's meant for a 1/16 tank. The driver is wired down onto the seat.

 

 

[busnproplinerfan]

Looking for a very close equivalent acrylic paint to humbrol 102. I need to match it to something close but can't look for myself in the stores. Online cross reference charts don't seem accurate. So if someone has some idea, let my know what might work. I want to lighten the colour of the top and will use the 102 for most of the truck's colour.

[busnproplinerfan]

Good thing I picked up some extra metal parts. I used the extra crossmember to mount the winch. I left off all the large plastic body that normally goes onto it. I wanted it recessed in the frame so just the pulley would show. I don't know if there's another winch that would look better but wanted to keep the WPL parts on this one. I had to use a drill and file to butcher a space for the winch. The sheet plastic also helps to sandwich the motor. It's all held on with the existing screw holes and screws.

Here's the finished winch and modified bumper and shackles.

These are the signal/marker lights. The originals were huge and not functional. The LEDs are chip LEDs from Evan design's running on 3 volts.

I decided to replace the kit's headlights with 10mm units I found at evilmadscientist. They are soft white diffused and fit the openings. Unfortunately they just take on a grey look when the hood is closed but I'll have to live with it. I'm not an electrical engineer by any means so yes it's a mess and there's still a bit more to add.

Here is the tail light wiring using 3mm red LEDs. I got a servo extension pigtail and a pack of connectors which have to be put together. I wanted a connector to the rear body so I could take the cab off by itself and not the whole body if I need to fix anything. You also get a look at the bottom side of the body here.

 

[busnproplinerfan]

Made a set of mirrors from brass rod. I'm not the greatest at soldering but they turned out. Well until I had to adjust the right side outer part, then I was chasing joints with the soldering iron, even with a small clamp for a heat sink. Just as fun as putting on the small tabs to hold the mirror heads. The mirror heads are two pieces of 0.040 sheet. One left full size and the second has the hole cut out for the lights and the side beveled. I had to cut a groove on the backside for the wires and a pin hold on top and bottom to attach to the brackets through the tabs.  I covered the lights with a thin clear sheet and sanded it with 320 paper to dull it down. Even more tweaking to fit them on the cab. I figured brass is much stronger than 1 mm plastic rod.

Here's everything attached and the lights being tested. I tested them continuously because I'm a bit paranoid of them failing as soon as it it's done. The headlights need the battery wire on firmly to work. For some reason they are a bit finicky that way. It's a mess under the hood and I had to find some liquid electrical tape for the wiring. No one seems to know what that is. The trucks battery will sit where the rad is. I redid the grill with aluminum mesh and made the bottom part new. That's where the molded on winch was. I had no choice but to leave the one side of the winch as a square, that's to cover the gear reduction. It should be round like the other side. But it's a functional model so this happens.

[busnproplinerfan]

Finally got the first coats of paint on. It's 34087. I was going to go for a weathered old look but it's a lot harder to figure out the correct shades. The paint used on the Canadian equipment faded very quick. They were touched up and so on. I decided to keep it fairly new looking. I haven't found any pictures of these trucks when new, no one took pictures of these. So it might be a better way to preserve one. These were built in '82 and are all retired now. There's a few left on bases waiting scrapping. They aren't being sold off anymore. I got ahold of the head of maintenance at the Royal Canadian Artillery Museum at CFB Shilo here in Manitoba. He's been helping me out with the finer details and it's greatly appreciated. I still have 34079 to put on and flat black. I'll use a warm flat black, just to soften it a little. The tarp was a slightly darker green but I painted it with the same 34087 to lighten it up and it seemed to work, it will stay over all green. The roughness on the fenders and hood is representing an anti slip paint. I used fine railroad ballast sprinkled on wet paint before painting. I think it's a bit coarser than I'd like but I'm not going to redo it and I don't have anything else on hand. Still some touch ups needed. The chewed out tyre is the spare done to clear the transmission when mounted. I have to wait for the full metal rear axles so I just painted the original plastic ones in case I want to put them in.

[busnproplinerfan]

I didn't like the antislip paint effect I made. I scraped it off and redid it using the rim spice from a premade ceaser drink mix. It seemed a bit smaller but I still knocked the larger bits off. It actually didn't look to bad when it was all scraped off but I didn't want it to smooth. I'm not used to having this colour on anything here.

[busnproplinerfan]

Got the next colours on. The black boogers are Mig masking putty. Stuff works pretty good. The green is 34079 and the black is TLT warm black. A couple of touch up needed but not as much as I usually get.

 

 

[busnproplinerfan]

Wasn't happy with the colour I had. Been consulting with the Shilo museum and through pictures came to the final choices. The colours faded very fast and the vehicles would look very different even if they're the same age. Luckily the head of maintenance at the museum has decades of experience with these trucks and other equipment and saw these when new. I understand a lot of the components were made in the US and either slightly modified or modified on production to the Bombardier drawings.  The first picture is the base colour with is model master interior green 34151. You will see also how much different the colour looks in the sun and inside under fluorescent light. Digital cameras and monitors hates green so look for actual paint samples when you can.

The second colour is model master euro1 dark green 4729. This colour is a unique to Canada colour so it's very hard to get outside of the actual paint. No model paint companies makes it. Canada is always seen as to small a market for everything. The black worms is Mig masking putty.

[busnproplinerfan]

 I sprayed the tamiya flat clear on the truck to flatten the euro1 green and gave the whole truck a slight satin finish when it should be flat. I picked up the same stuff in a bottle and airbrushed it, then it worked nice. Unfortunately the clear didn't like the salt I used on the anti slip and turned it into small white spots. I sprayed just the effected areas with humbrol enamel satin clear to seal the salt problem. I resprayed the olive and it behaved. I'm going to touch up the other two colours and respray the flat clear again. I'm also going to look at using the windbreaker material for a tarp instead of the cloth which is what they used early on.

[busnproplinerfan]

Got the paint problem mostly figured out, don't use salt. Find a very fine sand or ballast maybe. Don't know what there is for that. After the enamel clear I put on the tamiya flat clear and it reacted again just not as much. I used a brush with very little paint, almost dry and dabbed the spots that needed it.

I'm going to redo the tarp since these trucks didn't use the canvas one, the older ones did and the American one had. The material I'm using is from a pair of windbreaker pants I have. Seems to be going a lot easier so far. The real ones are fastened with heat, I'm using super glue and I might have to sew the end pieces on just so I have more control over the parts. The vertical parts are the end flaps. I cut the strip then glued them one, the rear one will be cut open. On the real trucks, the sides and ends can be rolled up and tied at the top.

[busnproplinerfan]

Made most of the top. It's not pulled to tight in the picture. I tried a few stitches but it wouldn't hold the materials together tight enough. So I super glued it about a half inch at a time. On this side I did forget to do a double fold on the horizontal chalk lines. This became the front and actuall fits better.

[busnproplinerfan]

Have the tarp tied down just in the corners to test fit it. Have to touch up the seams a little with more glue. Also have to attach tabs for the straps.

I opened up the vertical seams on the front folded the front over itself just a bit to create the seam. The real ones weren't sewn and the super flue seems to work good.

[busnproplinerfan]

The tarp is mostly done now. Made the little flaps that hold the washers on, this is for strapping up the sides or front and rear. I made the washers by punching the small holes first, then the overall size. Saves buying photo-etch ones.