Mr Mansfield Posted February 12, 2021 Share Posted February 12, 2021 This has been a real joy to follow. All the kits I would too nervous to try myself. Love that Edwardian (?) dash & I’m learning a lot about how to fit figures in. Something else I’ve never attempted. Looking forward to your next update 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Natter Posted February 12, 2021 Share Posted February 12, 2021 It gets better with every post. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbadbadge Posted February 13, 2021 Share Posted February 13, 2021 Just caught up again. Oh wow looks fantastic, the radiator looks lovely and the details at the hub end of the steering rod look fab and looks real. Great work this is really coming together. Chris 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted February 17, 2021 Author Share Posted February 17, 2021 Well.... that was fun... not! This was definitely a process of trial and (many) errors. I'll document how I eventually did it with the other side, but adding the three sections (front and rear mudguards and running boards) separately, using brass tube to socket the wire stays into under those parts, and superglue instead of epoxy were all critical... best, M. 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnlambert Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 It looks good, but I can imagine it was fiddly. I look forward to reading how you got the wings and running boards on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spiny Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 It might not have been fun, but adding the running boards and wings has definitely turned this into looking like a Silver Ghost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabrejet Posted February 18, 2021 Share Posted February 18, 2021 Does indeed look lovely: it must weigh a ton (tonne). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted February 18, 2021 Share Posted February 18, 2021 (edited) That's looking fantastic! Thinking about it more, and looking back to your earlier posts to see the parts prior to fitment, I can well imagine that the wings were a complete pain to locate correctly. Did you make a jig from this side, to help match up and support the other side whilst it was assembled and attached? Edited February 18, 2021 by Paul H Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted February 18, 2021 Author Share Posted February 18, 2021 Thanks, all... So, we begin the second running board: I thought I'd try to get away with two subassemblies on this side. As @Paul H surmised, the balsa strip is cut to match the height of a similar piece which was shaped to fit under the far side running board, and the body squared up in its foam "nest". Six 1.3mm OD (1.1mm ID) pieces of brass tube will snugly fit the piano wire of the stays, which are in order front to back in the foreground. Five of the six brass tubes are glued in place in the stay locations (One is in the front mudguard/fender, and the forward, shorter stay under the rear mudguard is left off at this stage). The three main stays are placed in the tubes, and test fitted, supported by the balsa block get the inboard/outboard placement right. Taking them out of the body brackets carefully, they can then be tacked with superglue and rapidly rotated so they are perpendicular to running board. The longer rear stay is placed in the brass tube, but NOT fixed in position. Using gel superglue, the three central stays are refitted to the centre brackets, still supporting the whole thing on the balsa block.If you start at the front, and put them in one at a time, you can rotate the rear mudguard stay to guide it into the body last. Then it can be glued by applying thinner glue to the socket and brass tube. With the rear mudguard in position, the brass tube can be slipped onto the short rear stay, which is glued into the body socket with gel superglue.The mudguard end will drop into place and can be tacked with thinner superglue. I should have taken a picture of this bit in progress, but it was a bit fraught. The front mudguard is also done with the car the right way up. I left the stay free to move in the brass tube, and applied gel superglue to the socket on the body (which runs up/down, not INTO the chassis like the others) and the lower rear edge of the mudguard. This edge sits on top of the ridge on the running board (you can just about see it here). It needs to be held in place for a minute or so before the glue cures, but focus on getting the rear of the mudguard attached to the running board square, and flush at the outer edge (it's wider at the inside edge). You can catch the bottom end of the stay in the slot, where its height will be fixed when the other end of the mudguard is aligned "on the shelf," and the loose fit in the brass tube will allow it to slide in and out until the mudguard is square. I backed up the mudguard to running board joints with 90-second cure epoxy, and added more thin superglue to the brass tubes and stays at every accessible joint. And yes, the whole thing is heavy! And turned the right way up, we get to here: And this is where we are at close of play today: I had a horrible worry that the (shiny) acetylene generator would be the last straw, and putting it place would start the running boards drooping, But it seems OK so far... best, M. 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dnl42 Posted February 18, 2021 Share Posted February 18, 2021 She looks grand! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bengalensis Posted February 19, 2021 Share Posted February 19, 2021 Lovely work 👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabrejet Posted February 19, 2021 Share Posted February 19, 2021 Love the busy look of the underside of your model. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted February 20, 2021 Author Share Posted February 20, 2021 Thanks, chaps... with luck this will be the last update before RFI! A bunch of small parts that fit beautifully. I've been able to put most of them in place mechanically, and then fix them by applying thinnish superglue to the joints.. The crew continue to progress. Madame is wrapped in cling film because there's a Milliput cushion between her and the seat, which (I hope) will come away neatly when it's cured... Windscreen "glass" is in and curing solidly overnight. best, M. 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pg265 Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 Hi, Stunning build! Pascal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toftdale Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 As Pascal said, stunning! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted February 21, 2021 Author Share Posted February 21, 2021 Thanks, both... didn't get as much done as I would have liked this weekend, so now I'm ready to sort out the lights as the last job. One thing I've learned is that the order of assembly described in the instructions needs to be followed precisely... As I hoped given the precision and quality of the design and tooling to this point,, the windscreen supports "spring" nicely to accommodate the "glass" and its frames, so the two panes could be popped in and then fixed in place with superglue afterwards. NB: if you're here because you plan to build one of these, or have just embarked on a build, DO NOT FIX THE OUTBOARD SPEEDO AND REV COUNTER UNTIL AFTER YOU HAVE PLACED THE WINDSCREEN SUPPORTS. The bracket for the speedo fits between the vertical windscreen rail and the firewall, not on the driver's side of the tube... best, M. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted February 24, 2021 Author Share Posted February 24, 2021 The lights had to be painted because the casting is just a bit rough (enough to appear "speckled" if you just polish). Some Mr Surfacer 1000 primer, TS17 Gloss Black, and finally TS-83 Metallic Silver, and this is the result. I'm impressed... best, M. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted February 24, 2021 Author Share Posted February 24, 2021 Which brings us to: That really is it for the car. work continues on the crew! best, M. 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dnl42 Posted February 24, 2021 Share Posted February 24, 2021 That's just wonderful! You're making it so hard to resist one of these kits... 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnlambert Posted February 24, 2021 Share Posted February 24, 2021 @cmatthewbacon that looks absolutely cracking! I'm not a big fan of that body style, but it's such a well known car and you have done it justice. 19 minutes ago, dnl42 said: That's just wonderful! You're making it so hard to resist one of these kits... Agreed, I think a SS Jaguar 100 would co nicely with my collection. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spiny Posted February 24, 2021 Share Posted February 24, 2021 That looks very, very nice. It also looks very large. Good luck with the figures, it'll be going some to get them up to the standard of the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted February 24, 2021 Share Posted February 24, 2021 Matt, you have done a meticulous and exacting build on an outstanding kit and subject. As one who has sweated details on a classic Rolls model, it pains me to pick this nit, but I learned with mine that the smallest changes can bring an exact looking motorcar. In no way what I say is meant as negative criticism - indeed your effort warrants nothing but praise and respect. I learned that a level and square hood line is the major reason all RR's have that stately appearance. It seems your hood stands a mm or two proud of the grille shell. Earlier in assembly I'd have suggested sanding the hood bottom edges a bit to make the hood line level with the grille and possibly the cowl. But now that finish is applied, if you share my opinion, perhaps you can remove and shim the grille higher to meet the hood center. Failing all the above, you still have a lovely model. C 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted February 24, 2021 Author Share Posted February 24, 2021 45 minutes ago, Spiny said: That looks very, very nice. It also looks very large. Good luck with the figures, it'll be going some to get them up to the standard of the car. For them’s as want to know these things, it weighs 1lb 4oz or nearly 600g. best, M. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted February 24, 2021 Author Share Posted February 24, 2021 Good point, @Codger. It turns out that I can shim the radiator... I thought that was never coming off again... best, M. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted February 24, 2021 Share Posted February 24, 2021 2 minutes ago, cmatthewbacon said: Good point, @Codger. It turns out that I can shim the radiator... I thought that was never coming off again... beat, M. M. Thanks for not hating me. It's hard to say a bad word about such good work. Hoping the shimming does the trick. C 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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