Spiny Posted January 13, 2021 Share Posted January 13, 2021 Got to agree about the finishes - if you hadn't said I would have sworn all the pipework had been provided in copper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted January 13, 2021 Author Share Posted January 13, 2021 So, moving closer to the moment of truth with the plug wiring: this is pretty much everything to complete the engine except the distributor and plug wires. Fortunately, the plug ends of the wire on the real thing just clip on from the side, so I can expose the metal on the top face, and superglue wire across rather than having to drill each plug. I need to drill the distributor (probably cutting off the projecting terminals and drilling down into the body). The magneto wires mount onto the stepped "shelves" you can see at the top of the brown part of the magneto, so no drilling needed there. The last piece of the puzzle, then, is to make the "pan pipe" structure that carries the wiring from the distributor side to each of its plugs. Fortunately, I have some thin brass tube and some superglue... Making it was surprisingly easy: thank capillary action for that. The tricky bit will be keeping it together while I fit it and wire it! Wish me luck... best, M. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted January 13, 2021 Share Posted January 13, 2021 The trick will be good references and getting the wire suitably thin for scale. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dnl42 Posted January 13, 2021 Share Posted January 13, 2021 Nice! You could take a look at lead wire. I have some down to 0.2mm. It's very easy to manipulate and takes paint well. I did a similar task for an Aston Martin DB4, threading the wire through the tube, from distributor to plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted January 14, 2021 Author Share Posted January 14, 2021 So, I've bitten the bullet and started the wiring... and stopped. there's only so much I can do in one session before my eyes and mojo give up the "Ghost"... In these pictures, the "Pan pipes" are not fixed. I just wanted to satisfy myself that it can be fixed and stay below the line of the water pipe. The real pipe angles up much more steeply to the top of the radiator, but this has to stay low to make sure the bonnet top fits, which is definitely more than scale thickness. As you can see, half the magneto wires are in place at one end... Turns out, I CAN drill the distributor... without even breaking one .35mm drill bit! Another session or two to go, I think... best, M. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toftdale Posted January 14, 2021 Share Posted January 14, 2021 Fantastic, as said before very realistic metal finishes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pouln Posted January 14, 2021 Share Posted January 14, 2021 I love what you are doing here. The details in this scale. Hat off. If I may make one small remark. I think that the wires that you use are a bit too thick. I can be wrong, but in the pictures it looks like the wires are out of scale in relation to the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted January 15, 2021 Share Posted January 15, 2021 1 hour ago, Pouln said: I think that the wires that you use are a bit too thick. I can be wrong, but in the pictures it looks like the wires are out of scale in relation to the engine. Agreed. Said it above. Real ones would be 5mm, .2mm in 1/24. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted January 15, 2021 Author Share Posted January 15, 2021 YMMV, but I’ve yet to find any accurately scale thickness wire that works for me, and believe me, I’ve tried. I’ve got wire the right diameter and colour, but it’s too springy and hard to get where you want it to go. I’ve got the right diameter wire that will go where I want it to but it’s silver and paint flakes off it when you handle or bend it. I’ve got lead wire that is the right size, tractable and paintable but is fragile and gets “cut” by tweezers. I’ve got Tamiya detailing wire which is thinner than this, but it’s multicore which tends to splay when you strip it, making it harder to insert into drilled holes or tube. And I’ve got this stuff, which is a bit overscale, but has a single, flexible core which you can strip and fix with superglue, you can shape and bend it at different angles on different axes and it stays bent, and it’ll let you bend it into position and then stay in place while you apply superglue. If I could find the same thing in a smaller diameter I’d use it, but I haven’t as yet... In this case, for me, usability trumps scale fidelity. These pix are pretty extreme closeups, focused on the engine. It’s not as jarring just sitting on the bench, and still less when it’s in the context of the whole car. best, M. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan R Posted January 15, 2021 Share Posted January 15, 2021 3 hours ago, cmatthewbacon said: I’ve got wire the right diameter and colour, Just a thought, could you heat treat the 'springy' wire to make it more pliable? Cheers, Alan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silver911 Posted January 15, 2021 Share Posted January 15, 2021 This place is superb for thin wire...very easy to bend or shape...and stays that way.......https://www.componentshop.co.uk/cable/ultra-thin-connecting-wire.html Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted January 15, 2021 Share Posted January 15, 2021 20 minutes ago, silver911 said: This place is superb for thin wire...very easy to bend or shape...and stays that way.......https://www.componentshop.co.uk/cable/ultra-thin-connecting-wire.html Ron Great link mate! Just what he needs (.25 mm) right on front page. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted January 15, 2021 Author Share Posted January 15, 2021 @Alan R I could, and I've tried, but only at the expense of the black colouring which burns off. What I need is anodized aluminium wire in very small diameters: I have bigger diameters in multiple colours, which have many of the right features, but they're too big. @silver911 and @Codger the wire I have is probably that stuff: the ".25mm conductor" wire is 0.5mm in overall diameter, which is what my wire is... Believe, me, it's not stubborn-ness... I really HAVE looked for this stuff over the last ten years... best, M. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnlambert Posted January 15, 2021 Share Posted January 15, 2021 I'm still loving this build, the thought of getting my own Silver Ghost is very tempting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted January 15, 2021 Author Share Posted January 15, 2021 Idly looking... the 1/12 Franklin Mint "die-cast" model, which is very impressive, seems to sell for less than $1000. Believe me, if I was charging for building this 1/24 scale model, it would be a LOT more than that by the end. Interestingly, the follow-on to the 1/12 Bentley from Airfix was going to be a 1/12 Silver Ghost https://www.vectis.co.uk/lot/2953-airfix-archive_149132 It would be interesting to know how much, if any of Airfix's research investment supported the Franklin Mint version... best, M. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silver911 Posted January 15, 2021 Share Posted January 15, 2021 50 minutes ago, cmatthewbacon said: @Alan R I could, and I've tried, but only at the expense of the black colouring which burns off. What I need is anodized aluminium wire in very small diameters: I have bigger diameters in multiple colours, which have many of the right features, but they're too big. @silver911 and @Codger the wire I have is probably that stuff: the ".25mm conductor" wire is 0.5mm in overall diameter, which is what my wire is... Believe, me, it's not stubborn-ness... I really HAVE looked for this stuff over the last ten years... best, M. This would have been my choice.......https://www.componentshop.co.uk/0-2mm-32awg-super-fine-solderable-enamelled-copper-connecting-wire-black.html I simply supplied the basic link for you to have a look at and had hoped it was of future use to you. Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted January 15, 2021 Author Share Posted January 15, 2021 Apologies, and thank you... I've nabbed some of this enamelled copper wire to test out. I'll let you know. I've never found any this thin before, so it could be more flexible which might prevent either the enamel flaking or needing to heat treat it to tame the stuff... best, M. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted January 17, 2021 Author Share Posted January 17, 2021 Right, that's it: "Stage 3:the engine" is now complete... Boy, am I glad to see that back of this bit... Still, it's a cool engine, and I understand much better how it works having built one. The wires could be thinner, but being black they have less visibility than they might, and I think the engine is much improved by having them in place... Now, on with the body.... best, M. 13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dnl42 Posted January 17, 2021 Share Posted January 17, 2021 That looks excellent! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pouln Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 I agree. Looks impressive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bengalensis Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 It's looking very nice Matthew, it will display very well in the frame under an open bonnet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spiny Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 That's a very, very nice looking engine. Did you paint the springs on the valves, or is it just a trick of the light? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted January 19, 2021 Author Share Posted January 19, 2021 Thanks, guys! @Spiny the valve springs are very lightly drybrushed with some Citadel silver, just to bring out the casting detail. The body is under way... I glued the back to the sides first in a U-shape. The mating faces are very well-shaped, once you clean off the moulding pips and small amount of flash. The fit is such that when it's flush, the joint is at 90 degrees. After that had set (I used gel super glue) I put in the front floor. It you're doing one of these yourself, note that the floors sit on top of the moulded ridges on the sides. This is not clear from the instructions OR photos. Then I dropped in the front and rear seat fronts, which slide firmly but easily into the slots in the sides. The central seat back and divider are an equally good fit. The idea is to use the body as a jig to assemble the seat upholstery and cushions, gluing it all together, and then remove the complete seat benches to paint separately from the body. Hmmmm... best, M. 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jo NZ Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 It's a bit like building flat pack furniture! Don't forget to check the fit on the chassis before you go any further. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmatthewbacon Posted January 20, 2021 Author Share Posted January 20, 2021 9 hours ago, Jo NZ said: It's a bit like building flat pack furniture! Don't forget to check the fit on the chassis before you go any further. Thanks, Jo... yes I should have said thank you for your advice. I had it on the chassis several times as I got it together, and the seat bulkheads went in with it taped down... I just didn’t think to photograph it at that point! best, M. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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