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1907 Rolls Royce Silver Ghost, 1/24 Finecast metal kit


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And now for a bit of a change from the tiny Heller 80s cars:

 

box.jpg

 

This was bought at a very reasonable price from the 'bay as "possibly incomplete". After a careful review of the contents against the instruction sheets, I was missing half an exhaust silencer, one bonnet panel, and a tiny door handle. Fortunately, the kit is still being sold by "SE Finecast" as it now is (this box was from the predecessor "Wills Finecast"), and the nice chaps there sold me the replacement bits I needed for another eminently reasonable sum.

 

chassis-bag.jpg

 

While I was taking the parts inventory, I separated the key stages into separate bags. This is bag No.1, which contains the chassis frame and transmission. The fine detail is very impressive, and beautifully moulded, with little in the way of seams or flash.

 

chassis-rails-1.jpg

 

chassis-rails-2.jpg

 

As they say, the journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step. The main chassis frames are in two halves. A bit of cleaning up and some 2-part epoxy, and here we go... I have a whole different set of tools, materials and techniques to get used to! I think I'm going to need some faster glue...

Don't expect to see this finished any time soon; I may run some more traditional builds in parallel. If I can get it done in 2021, I'll be happy!

best,

M.

 

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Having read your post about this in the recently bought kits section, I've been looking forward to your build thread! 😎

 

Also sounds like excellent service from SE Finecast, which is confidence inspiring 🙂

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A couple of pointers (which I've mentioned before).

 

As the body is cast as flat sections, it needs to be properly aligned. When I built this (I think I made two) I CA'd the body together on top of the completed chassis. It doesn't always go right first time, but you get the near instant assembly with CA. If you don't like the alignment, dunk it in hot water and it will fall apart. When you are happy with it, back up all the joins with epoxy, and use a reinforcing strip (e.g. fibreglass tissue) if you're really paranoid.

 

The white metal is fairly soft, and the body is heavy. To avoid saggy suspension, fit a couple of supports under the chassis that will take the weight.

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Thanks, all.... I think, to borrow a phrase from elsewhere, "this is a marathon, not a sprint..."

 

chassis-frame-from-underneath.jpg

 

chassis-frame-from-above.jpg

 

The fine detail is exquisite; the instructions, less so... Though maybe 45 years on from when this kit was first bought -- I inherited the original 1976 invoice -- the fashion for exploded diagrams has thoroughly triumphed over the detailed written words I have to mull over. Just one "reverse angle" diagram would help hugely, even though the sheet of built up model photos is better than nowt...

best,

M.

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At the risk of boring folks, I'm going to post a lot of in progress photos. The drawings and photo sheet in the box are helpful, but I'll post up pictures with the views I wish I'd had to help me 😜

 

So lets start with the interesting three-spring rear suspension:

rear-springs-from-underneath.jpg

 

rear-springs-from-above.jpg

 

rear-springs-from-underneath-right.jpg

 

This is how the transmission brake and brake cross-rod are oriented.

 

Front axle and suspension:

front-springs-from-below-right.jpg

 

Rear axle and differential:

rear-axle-1.jpg

 

rear-axle-2.jpg

 

The detail and fit are very impressive. The seam between the two halves is mostly filled by the epoxy adhesive, which I've then trimmed off with a sharp knife, but there are a couple of places where I've used microballoons and superglue to finish off. I primed this so I could see any gaps and flash left after assembly.

 

And now a lot of pictures of the completed back end. It took some time to figure out exactly how the Y-shaped torque tube piece fitted... especially since it was broken into two pieces in the box!

 

rear-axle-in-place-from-above-rear.jpg

 

 

 

rear-axle-in-place-from-above.jpg

 

rear-axle-in-place-from-below-front.jpg

 

rear-axle-in-place-from-below-rear.jpg

 

rear-axle-in-place-from-below.jpg

 

That's it for now. I continue to be very impressed by the engineering. A lot of the time, after cleaning up the bits, they are a solid press fit together which can then be "set" by running superglue into the joint.

best,

M.

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Well, that's a relief... 'cos here are some more!

 

track-rod.jpg

 

Easy one first... the steering track rod. Look at the bolt and joint detail, though...

 

Now for the side mounted "supplementary torque tubes" at the rear:

 

side-torque-tubes-1.jpg

 

side-torque-tubes-2.jpg

 

side-torque-tube-closeup.jpg

 

On this last picture, you can see the brake inners. There is a slight "flat" on the axle which is where the actuation lever on the inner face fits. The lever comes downwards, because that lower end needs to be joined by a wire to the lever on the brake cross rod (see above) on each side.

 

axle-bracing-wire-1.jpg

 

axle-bracing-wire-2.jpg

 

The rear axle is braced with a length of nickel silver wire between the two dimples in the backs of the axle clamps, over the slotted mounting on the diff. Amazingly, even this 3" piece of wire was still in the "possibly incomplete" kit box. If your geometry ends up like mine, the asymmetric wire is 20mm on the left side and 24mm on the right, with 2mm flat in the centre mounting.

 

So, here's the first milestone:

stage-1-done.jpg

 

stage-one-done-2.jpg

 

This completes assembly of "Stage One: the chassis"

 

radiator.jpg

 

And THIS completes assembly of "Stage 2: the radiator". It's two parts, front and back. You'll note an AA badge, not the "Spirit of Ecstacy" you might expect...

 

Couldn't resist a trial:

radiator-test.jpg

 

wheels-test.jpg

 

While I was at it, I though I'd check the sit on the wheels. My plan is to put a clear perspex rod support under that curved undertray in the middle to relieve the axles and kingpins of the weight of the white metal body.

 

And now: "Stage 3: the engine"....

 

engine-parts.jpg

 

The parts as moulded. Note lots of delicate detail, and representations of pretty much all the plumbing and ancillaries.

 

main-engine-assemblies.jpg

 

Main assemblies under way. I've used epoxy on these to ensure resilience and fill any small seam gaps (though any gaps really are small... one of the cylinder banks was pretty much a perfect press fit, as you can see in the parts photo above.)

 

Time to let them set...

best,

M.

 

 

 

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Wow - I was really not expecting it to be this detailed!  And as others have said, thank you for documenting this so comprehensively!

 

(Now if only I can find their OE 30/98 for sensible money....)

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That’s a fantastic level of detail in there. For something in so parts, you’ve made it look easy to put together. The very Un-Rolls looking radiator had me reading up on the spirit of ecstasy on Wikipedia. My something new to learn for today!

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Busy day, so not a lot of actual modelling progress today, but...

 

crew-1.jpg

 

crew-parts.jpg

 

These two have arrived. I'm reliably informed that there's not much difference between American fashions of the swells of 1910 and Edwardian aristocratic Brits, so with appropriate painting, they'll provide scale and animation...

best,

M.

 

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Have you also seen the figures which go with the Model T Speedster?  Wondering if the two sets would combine together well for a full load of passengers!

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I have... the mildly annoying thing is that they haven’t released the “Taxi de la Marne”  figure set separately... I think the taxi driver would make a great chauffeur... If anyone has one and wants the poilus but not the driver, let me know!

best,

M.

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22 hours ago, Paul H said:

I thought those taxi figures only came with the 1:35 version, rather than the 1:24?

Ah-ha! That explains it... why I can't find them, that is. I guess I should have learned from their Admiral kits that sometimes ICM do both scales! I was just going by memories of box arts I'd seen...

best,

M.

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A pity though, since the Ghost would look great with a chauffeur!  Thinking of their 1:35 / 24 stuff, I really wish they would scale their Packard up to 1:24...

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Slow progress, but some...

chassis-painted-and-washed-bottom.jpg

 

chassis-painted-and-washed-top.jpg

 

Chassis has been primed and painted with Tamiya Mica Silver, and has (just) been given a fairly subtle wash with Citadel "Nuln Oil" to pop the detail, particularly on the springs.

 

And assembling the engine has begun:

 

main-engine-block-left.jpg

 

main-engine-block-right.jpg

 

main-engine-block-bottom.jpg

 

Now, the sharp-eyed among you will have noticed that there are two spark plugs per cylinder. One set are wired to the distributor, which sits on that mounting at the front (to the right in the second engine picture), and the other set are wired to the magneto, mounted on the other side of the engine on the shelf in the middle of the crankcase on the first picture. I'm curious what this set up is all about... anyone knowledgeable about 1907-vintage engines able to enlighten me?

There are a fair number of small ancillary parts painted with AK True Metal Copper and Brass drying in a warm place before polishing them tomorrow...

best,

M.

 

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18 minutes ago, cmatthewbacon said:

anyone knowledgeable about 1907-vintage engines able to enlighten me?

I think (though not positive) that one set of spark plugs are for starting, and one set for running, I think the Merlin set up was similar 🤔

 

Absolutely stunning, I've had the privilege of clambering over a real ghost twice, and frequently deal with a custom P11, absolutely breathtaking the amount of effort and engineering that went into these vintage erollers.

 

Andy 

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1 minute ago, ElectricLightAndy said:

I think (though not positive) that one set of spark plugs are for starting, and one set for running, I think the Merlin set up was similar 🤔

 

Absolutely stunning, I've had the privilege of clambering over a real ghost twice, and frequently deal with a custom P11,...

 

Andy 

Not quite so Andy. Think modern 'Hemi' with twin plug ignition. Although those were probably not hemispherical chambers. A strong family resemblance is seen in my P II of '29 - '35. But this is now a crossflow head, and the plugs fire simultaneously. The distributor is driven by gear from the water pump and advance/retard controlled (2 silver rods) from linkage on the steering wheel.

156-pasted-Graphic.png

Then linkage runs from the distributor, by bellcrank, across the front of block and back to the magneto (black long link) to synch it. The mag is driven by a driveshaft from the generator. The mag is mounted on an engine mount casting.

158-pasted-Graphic.png

Hope this helps and sorry for barging in Matt but maybe there's some similarity to the 'Ghost motor. Certainly a family resemblance and advancements in the later designs.

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Thanks, all. Not a great picture, but here are some key bits of plumbing, "painted" with AK "True Metal" wax and polished:

 

metal-tubes.jpg

 

right-side-under-way.jpg

 

This is the water pump (brass) and cooling manifold. The water pump is driven by the shaft from the right, which clearly also drives the distributor (not yet installed).

 

left-side-under-way.jpg

 

And this is the shaft driven magneto and inlet manifold (at the top) which will be attached to the carburettor. BTW, in terms of attention to detail, look at the valve springs, which are not all moulded generically in the same positions, but "animated."

 

top-right.jpg

 

top-left.jpg

 

A couple of other views. I'm pretty sure that the pulleys on the timing case and fan drive should have a belt or chain joining them, as seen on @Codger s picture, but haven't found any clear views of it yet for this engine.

 

carburettor-on.jpg

 

The rather funky carburettor in place. This really is the cross-over of steam age engineering and the 20th century!

 

carburettor-2.jpg

 

front-end.jpg

 

And this is where I'm at tonight. I need to think about how much I want to wire those plugs!

best

M.

 

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