Advice or tips needed - cleaning up one piece tracks

[nheather]

Hi,

 

Maybe not the best place to post, but I figure as this is quite specific to tanks tracks some of you may have encountered this and have some excellent advice and suggestions.

 

In addition to my normal 1:35 model making, I do table top wargaming in various scales 28mm (1:56), 20mm (1:72) and 15mm (1:100).

 

Because wargaming models have to be robust the track, suspension and wheels are usually moulded as a single piece.  More often than not, this piece as a mould line down the centreline of the track.  With smaller tanks and particularly at smaller scales the gaps between each track tread is narrow - too narrow for needle files.

 

Advice I’m after is any smart ways to clean up these seams.  The part running on top of the treads is not an issue, it is the gaps between the treads.

 

Normally I resort to scalpel blades and folded wet and dry but that is mind numbing given the number of links and when you have 20 tanks to do.

 

Just wondering if there are any clever solutions and could reduce the trudge.

 

Cheers,

 

Nigel

 

 

[Kingsman]

Unfortunately I think you've hit on all the techniques we would use.  Scalpel blade, file, abrasive paper.  I might suggest a scraper, but that is little different to a scalpel blade.  The Master Tools (i.e Trumpeter) seam scraper is nice, handles well and is wickedly sharp - as my fingers will testify!  The Warhammer version is fat, heavy and clumsy.  Voyager and others do etched srapers with variously shaped edges, but again this might just be an expensive substitute for a scalpel blade.

 

Which scalpel blade shape do you use?  The pointed ones can be a bit, well, pointy.  A rounded blade will give a blunter tip. You might also try the back edge of a blade with the point worn, clipped or snapped off (mind your eyes trying to snap a blade with pliers).

 

The other alternative is - mud!

[FG2Si]

I've used some PE style razer saws. They come in different thicknesses  and shapes. You'd probably just need a quick pass or two and be done. Here's one made by Tamiya with a rounded profile that isn't as likely to get caught on things. 

 

 

Carl