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Bell X-1: RIP Chuck - Tamiya 1/72


CedB

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1 minute ago, Marklo said:

Dusting off my engineering brain :) normally for an anneal a slow cool is better either air cool or in sand, a fast cool will precipitate impurities at the grain boundaries causing hardness ( by virtue of the precipitates preventing movement of discontinuities  in the metal structure) and in extreme cases brittleness, so you usually only quench where your looking to harden the metal. 

Depends on the metals involved, ferrous metals will harden with quenching, copper and copper alloys (such as brass) can safely be quenched after heating to anneal them.

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26 minutes ago, Brandy said:

Why does the title of this thread always make me think of Cilla Black?

Random word association as the result of tenuous brain function due to getting older? I know that’s pretty much what I function on. 
 

And now I’m thinking of that rhyme about woodchucks. How much wood .......See :)

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On 02/01/2021 at 12:01, Marklo said:

Dusting off my engineering brain :) normally for an anneal a slow cool is better either air cool or in sand, a fast cool will precipitate impurities at the grain boundaries causing hardness ( by virtue of the precipitates preventing movement of discontinuities  in the metal structure) and in extreme cases brittleness, it also promotes finer grain size which leads to smaller grain size which also results in a harder material; so you usually only quench where your looking to harden the metal. 

On 02/01/2021 at 12:03, Dave Swindell said:

Depends on the metals involved, ferrous metals will harden with quenching, copper and copper alloys (such as brass) can safely be quenched after heating to anneal them.

On 02/01/2021 at 12:09, Spookytooth said:

Heavy metal rules .....

 

Simon.

On 02/01/2021 at 12:50, Marklo said:

Ahh most of my experience  is with inconel,  titanium and various steels. Not that familiar with the other non ferrous stuff.

Thanks Mark, Dave and Simon :) 

I seem to remember quenching copper from cherry red in my Metalwork classes, but letting iron cool on it's own.

Mind you, my memory's not what it used to be…

 

On 02/01/2021 at 15:16, Brandy said:

Why does the title of this thread always make me think of Cilla Black?

 Thanks Ced!🤨

 

Ian

No idea matey, is it yer inner Scouser?

That would be a surprise (surprise) :D 

 

On 02/01/2021 at 15:42, Marklo said:

Random word association as the result of tenuous brain function due to getting older? I know that’s pretty much what I function on. 
 

And now I’m thinking of that rhyme about woodchucks. How much wood .......See :)

If it could… :D 

 

Just now, perdu said:

Does anyone know?

 

Asking for a friend...

Er… :D

 

 

Having sanded the seams I'm now faced with sticking on sticky out bits.

In for a penny, in for a pound, I started with the nose spike and then the tailplanes:

 

50795976961_6af80d2c85_z.jpg

 

50795242063_5ca3562497_z.jpg

 

Hard to photograph straight on, but I've checked them twice and I think they're straight.

 

Paint has been mixed too:

 

50796113287_7c41ca703e_z.jpg

 

8:1.

Only way to do that is to drop, drop, drop…

Damn, lost count!

Hopefully it's right and there's enough.

What's the betting I run out mid-spray?

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30 minutes ago, CedB said:

What's the betting I run out mid-spray?

If that little bottle is full I'd say not too good, take the money.


If however that slightly denser area at the bottom of the bottle is the 'wot's inside' marker my money rides with Simon's.

 

Cool colour though Ced.

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Hmmm. I think you might both be right and now I’m more worried. 
 

I’m unlikely to use the orange again so I think I’ll mix some more. 
And use thinners...

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41 minutes ago, CedB said:

Hmmm. I think you might both be right and now I’m more worried. 
 

I’m unlikely to use the orange again so I think I’ll mix some more. 
And use thinners...

That sounds like a sensible idea.

You don't want to end up doing what I did.

I thought, stupidly after painting the fuselage on mine that I wouldn't need it again and binned it.

Of course the Eduard kit has part of the fuselage on the canopy piece. I couldn't get the exact shade again. 

 

Cheers,

Alistair

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Looking good in primer Ced awaiting the colour coat now. 

Just to through a spanner in the works are you planning the B29 mothership to go with the X-1?

 

  Stay safe          Roger

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4 hours ago, Hamden said:

 

Looking good in primer Ced awaiting the colour coat now. 

Just to through a spanner in the works are you planning the B29 mothership to go with the X-1?

 

  Stay safe          Roger

Thanks Roger - wait no longer! 

A B29? Now that's a (mad) thought! :) 

 

3 hours ago, perdu said:

Now they WOULD look good up in the sky of the Cediverse Rog, good idea.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

:whistle:

Too much plane Bill, not enough ceiling space (in my US 'area') :) 

 

 

First time spraying Tamiya acrylics and I know it has its fans so not too worried. 

Read the forum and suggestions are 2:1 thinner so that's at the ready:

 

50799484296_b39dba9fcd_z.jpg

 

I'm hoping the Tak support holds:

 

50799607402_3f8ace99ac_z.jpg

 

It's been 'stress tested' so fingers crossed. The though of it dropping off mid-spray… 😨

No worries though.

20psi with a 0.2mm needle, mist coat etc etc:

 

50799522671_a0211ea655_z.jpg

 

 

I had the oft-stated problem of nozzle drying and this does look a bit grainy:

 

50799541241_6789795d90_z.jpg

 

…but I'm hoping it'll level.

Otherwise a bit of Micromeshing should sort it out.

 

Orange isn't it?

Like these:

 

50798796488_08fc389c7e_z.jpg

 

Remind you of anyone?

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14 minutes ago, CedB said:

First time spraying Tamiya acrylics

Really? Well, sorry if I'm late with this, then. I had the best results with Tamiya paints by thinning them with cellulose thinner (the anti-fog type), especially to avoid that orange peel effect. No tip drying at all, BTW. And you can go much further than what you used as thinning ratio. 

 

Having said that, your paint job looks very good, and the seams disappeared  :clap:

 

Ciao 

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Hi There,

I tend to use tamiya X20-A but thin at about 50/50 and spray at about 10/11 psi and don't suffer from any tip dry.

I also use Self-Levelling Thinners at about the same ratio and pressure and it does go on beautifully and dries really quickly.

But as you say nothing a bit of micromesh can't sort but be careful I've found that it can burn through Tamiya paint quite quickly.

 

Cheers,

Alistair

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10 hours ago, CedB said:

Read the forum and suggestions are 2:1 thinner so that's at the ready:

I tend to mix at 1:1 I’ve never had any troubles. Always with Tamiya thinners too. Looking splendid by the way. 👌
nice fingers. Been eating cheezy poofs? 😃

 

Johnny. 

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22 hours ago, tonyh said:

You've taken up heavy smoking?

:D Nope, vaping for years now!

 

21 hours ago, giemme said:

Really? Well, sorry if I'm late with this, then. I had the best results with Tamiya paints by thinning them with cellulose thinner (the anti-fog type), especially to avoid that orange peel effect. No tip drying at all, BTW. And you can go much further than what you used as thinning ratio. 

 

Having said that, your paint job looks very good, and the seams disappeared  :clap:

 

Ciao 

Thanks Giorgio :) 

I've Micromeshed a bit and I'm hoping the varnish coat will hide any other orange peel, if not the orange!

 

19 hours ago, AliGauld said:

Hi There,

I tend to use tamiya X20-A but thin at about 50/50 and spray at about 10/11 psi and don't suffer from any tip dry.

I also use Self-Levelling Thinners at about the same ratio and pressure and it does go on beautifully and dries really quickly.

But as you say nothing a bit of micromesh can't sort but be careful I've found that it can burn through Tamiya paint quite quickly.

 

Cheers,

Alistair

Thanks Alistair :) 

I've read a lot about self-levelling thinners but don't have any… most of my paints don't need it and I think I'm going to stick to what I know, for now.

 

19 hours ago, Jochen Barett said:

 

The orange of a (certain) lame duck?

:rofl:

 

12 hours ago, Navy Bird said:

 

Nope, they're not small enough.

 

Cheers,

Bill

:rofl2:

 

11 hours ago, The Spadgent said:

I tend to mix at 1:1 I’ve never had any troubles. Always with Tamiya thinners too. Looking splendid by the way. 👌
nice fingers. Been eating cheezy poofs? 😃

 

Johnny. 

Thanks Johnny :) 

Did you mean cheesy puffs? 😨

 

1 hour ago, AliGauld said:

Well, I didn't want to say anything in case @The Spadgent popped in but now that he has...

You're no relation to Lady MacBeth at all?

 

Sorry I was told to mention it. :whistle:

 

Cheers,

Alistair

Thanks Ali :D 

 

 

Well, now I know why I like wheels up:

 

50803165637_a6c6f43887_z.jpg

 

Complicated or what!

When that's dry I'll stick the wheels on and, hopefully, get it sitting straight. Ish.

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20 minutes ago, CedB said:

Thanks Alistair :) 

I've read a lot about self-levelling thinners but don't have any… most of my paints don't need it and I think I'm going to stick to what I know, for now.

Tamiya Thinners work perfectly well with Tamiya paints. What I usually do when I don't need a mix is fill the new bottle up to the small lip line in the glass with X-20A and give it a good shake/stir when I want to use it. Pre-thinned.

Not had any problems with that method yet.

 

 

Cheers,

Alistair

 

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Thanks Alistair, great tip :) 

 

 

Wheels are on:

 

50802947333_f14eb73bf6_z.jpg

 

Nice detail on the u/c:

 

50802949268_e0479dcce6_z.jpg

 

Glossed ready for transfers:

 

50803969166_557290912d_z.jpg

 

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