Lotus Super 7

[Toftdale]

I don't normally like making more than 1 model at a time, because for me its a recipe to not complete anything.  However the Alpine is suitably near completion (as long as I do not screw up reducing the paint run) that I know it will be completed and with 2 more weeks until the clear is suitable cured to be sanded I have started on a 7.  I have not done much, just enough to show the direction I am going.  I have often wondered how I could manage to make one with an aluminium body and painted wings.  It would be nigh on impossible to mask.  It is very easy to remove the wings, but the trick is getting them back on.  But I have com up with a cunning plan 🤫.  On the model the vertical surface of the front wings touch the body are so thin that they disappear when the wings are cut off.  Therefore I have glued some thin strips of plastic below, then used stretched sprue between this strip and the wing to reinforce the joint.  Then a small amount of filler.  Next Drilled two holes on this new strip straight through into the body before cutting of the wing.  Now I can use pins to locate the wing back in place after either painting the body or using Bare Metal foil, still not decided.

 

[Anteater]

That's what I like, full commitment from the first post 😀

[Pascal]

Nice project. Build this kit some 15 years ago. Added some details to the engine compartment, wooden dashboard, bezels made from wire, etc. And, I had a big paint run on the rear of the body. If you're interested, I think I still have the photos.

 

PS : great idea to finish it with an aluminium body. I would give kitchen foil a try. It comes in many shades and is a lot cheaper then BMF. Check out some of the WIP's of the airplane modellers for inspiration and how to's.

 

Sincerely

 

Pascal

Edited December 22, 2020 by Pascal

[Natter]

11 hours ago, Anteater said:

That's what I like, full commitment from the first post

 

Absolute commitment. I'll be watching this one too.

[Toftdale]

6 hours ago, Pascal said:

Nice project. Build this kit some 15 years ago. Added some details to the engine compartment, wooden dashboard, bezels made from wire, etc. And, I had a big paint run on the rear of the body. If you're interested, I think I still have the photos.

 

PS : great idea to finish it with an aluminium body. I would give kitchen foil a try. It comes in many shades and is a lot cheaper then BMF. Check out some of the WIP's of the airplane modellers for inspiration and how to's.

 

Sincerely

 

Pascal

Hi Pascal, some photos would be great Plus its brilliant idea to check out the aeroplane WIP and one that I would have never thought of - Andy

[Escaflowne]

Interesting subject one of my favorite car.

It remember me the TV serie with Patrick Mc Goohan, The prisoner.

[Pascal]

Here's some photos of my Super 7 :

 

 

 

 

I used spraycans for primer, green and clearcoat. The clearcoat gave me a very big run at the rear of the body. The run was sanded and a thin layer of clearcoat was sprayed over it, it's no longer visible :

 

 

Sincerely

 

Pascal

Edited December 22, 2020 by Pascal

[Toftdale]

1 hour ago, Pascal said:

 

I used spraycans for primer, green and clearcoat. The clearcoat gave me a very big run at the rear of the body. The run was sanded and a thin layer of clearcoat was sprayed over it, it's no longer visible :

Sincerely

Pascal.

Hi Pascal, thanks for sharing,  fantastic paint.  I am sure no Lotus 7 ever left the factory with that deep a shine.  Between Anteater's recent caterham build and yourself you've set me a very high standard to try and achieve 😟.  

[Stickframe]

Great idea for your removable fenders!  nice and clean - looking forward to this moving along - 

 

Cheers

Nick 

[Toftdale]

Had a go at making the bonnet today from a coke can (other soft drinks are available 😁).  I knew it was not going to be the finished product,  just to see if it realistic for me to do.  So I made a pattern using masking tape over the kit part stuck it to the can and cut it out.  It is not very clear on the photo, but I let a edge of about 1mm to give me a return on the side edges of the bonnet.  I then used a photoetch bender to get me a 90 degree bend on both edges.  Then shaped the can over the kit bonnet by hand.  For a 1st attempt I'm quite pleased, however if anyone knows a better way to achieve this, please let me know 🙏 

 

 

The most valuable lesson I learnt was that if you take you pattern from the outside of the kit and then transfer it to the inside of the new part you end up with a bonnet for a crossflow!

Again thanks for the interest - Andy 

[keefr22]

Very neat for a prototype! Nice work!

 

Keith

 

 

[Stickframe]

Yes, for a first try, it looks very nice!   If you do figure out a sure-fire method for doing this, let us know!  I recently tried my first aluminum body part and while pretty nice in the end, it took quite a bit of trial and error to get it to look right.  Good idea using the etch bender to provide a constant 90 degree edge, as it appears to work fine.

 

Cheers

Nick

[dnl42]

Very nice work! 

 

I use 6 mil vacuum seals from coffee cans to make sheet parts. For simple parts and bends, I also use a PE bending tool for sharp bends or a PE rolling set for arced and cylindrical shapes.  I used a similar approach to yours to fabricate slats for a Lysander. Luckily I was able to create a die sized correctly for the material thickness. Another complex part was a fire extinguisher nozzle. I was able to use some geometry to cut a pattern for the conical frustum shape and then wrapped it around a wooden pencil point.

[Alan R]

Seeing your ali bonnet makes me want to try that on my Lotus 7 that arrived recently.
I might just give it a try, especially as we have an an enormous amount of aluminium cans around after Christmas...

 

 

Cheers,

Alan.

Edited December 28, 2020 by Alan R
typo

[Pascal]

That hood looks great Andy. Please be careful using alu cans, the material is very sharp and can cause some really nasty cuts. I use scrap alu from all kinds of "household appliances" : old VCR's, DVD players, etc. The alu is a bit thicker, but also less sharp.

 

Sincerely

 

Pascal

[Toftdale]

12 hours ago, Stickframe said:

Yes, for a first try, it looks very nice!   If you do figure out a sure-fire method for doing this, let us know!  I recently tried my first aluminum body part and while pretty nice in the end, it took quite a bit of trial and error to get it to look right.  Good idea using the etch bender to provide a constant 90 degree edge, as it appears to work fine.

 

Cheers

Nick

Hi Nick, thanks for the comments.  The only additional tip I can give at the moment is that 6.5mm is pretty much spot on the radius of the bonnet.  So after the initial forming I used a drill bit to tidy up the radius.  - Andy

[Toftdale]

11 hours ago, dnl42 said:

Very nice work! 

 

I use 6 mil vacuum seals from coffee cans to make sheet parts. For simple parts and bends, I also use a PE bending tool for sharp bends or a PE rolling set for arced and cylindrical shapes.  I used a similar approach to yours to fabricate slats for a Lysander. Luckily I was able to create a die sized correctly for the material thickness. Another complex part was a fire extinguisher nozzle. I was able to use some geometry to cut a pattern for the conical frustum shape and then wrapped it around a wooden pencil point.

Hi, I have seen these lids before but have always dismissed them due to the dimples.   Now I have seen your Lysander post I now know better.  Will also be trying your wood graining technique on the steering wheel.  The pencil trick should also come in handy for the carb inlet on the side of the bonnet.  To my embarrassment you have even taught me a new word!.  Thank you for the post,  regards Andy.  PS, planes are not really my thing but I was very impressed it your Lysander, then I realised how small it was and was even more so!

[Toftdale]

3 hours ago, Alan R said:

, especially as we have an an enormous amount of aluminium cans around after Christmas.

Hi Alan, guilty as changed 😬,  but there not all coke this time!

[Toftdale]

2 hours ago, Pascal said:

That hood looks great Andy. Please be careful using alu cans, the material is very sharp and can cause some really nasty cuts. I use scrap alu from all kinds of "household appliances" : old VCR's, DVD players, etc. The alu is a bit thicker, but also less sharp.

 

Sincerely

 

Pascal

Hi Pascal, thanks as ever for the positive input.  Again I have not thought of looking for aluminium in half the places you have suggested.   I found that once the shape has been cut out the aluminium it is not too bad, however turning the can into a flat sheet can be interesting to say the least.   Andy

[Toftdale]

The problem with finding decent reference material is that you are never happy straight out of the box.  Hence I have now improved on the engine mounts (attached to the sump on the kit).  This will also allow me to fill the hole below the mounts

 

Next the fuel pump, starter motor and alternator were represented with just blobs of plastic.  The alternators done, I will be using the kits pulleys and have attached my new alternator to it with a pin.  The fuel pump just needs the glass dome and wire on the top.  I also intend to improve on the clutch release mechanism and would love to make the throttle assembly for the carbs, but that might be a step too far.

 

 

As always thanks for looking Andy

[bar side]

Have to be careful or you will have more detail than a real 1600 crossflow!  Not the most sophisticated of lumps.  I presume that is the engine you are doing?  Always liked the seven & built this kit years ago.  Prisoner version or another?

[Toftdale]

18 hours ago, bar side said:

Have to be careful or you will have more detail than a real 1600 crossflow!  Not the most sophisticated of lumps.  I presume that is the engine you are doing?  Always liked the seven & built this kit years ago.  Prisoner version or another?

Thanks for the comment.  The engine is in fact a pre-cross flow, I think it was originally a Ford Anglia Lump, but wouldn't guarantee it 🤔.  As for the colour scheme still undecided.   Andy

[Anteater]

Your bonnet looks ace. 

 

The kit is a great basis OOB but there are infinite little tweaks that can be made, interesting seeing your interpretation of it. There is shaping up to be quite a fleet of these on here...

[bar side]

53 minutes ago, Toftdale said:

Thanks for the comment.  The engine is in fact a pre-cross flow, I think it was originally a Ford Anglia Lump, but wouldn't guarantee it 🤔.  As for the colour scheme still undecided.   Andy

My mum & dad had an Anglia when I was a kid.  Traded it in for Rover 2000 then a mk1 Escort 1300 in white.   That would be worth a bit now!

[johnlambert]

1 hour ago, Toftdale said:

Thanks for the comment.  The engine is in fact a pre-cross flow, I think it was originally a Ford Anglia Lump, but wouldn't guarantee it 🤔.  As for the colour scheme still undecided.   Andy

 

I think it's a 1500 pre-crossflow as found in the Ford Consul Classic and possibly the Mk1 Cortina.  It will fit in the Anglia (there are some racing Anglia 1500s) but I don't think it was ever a factory option.