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Sd.Kfz 181 Tiger 1 SUPERTHREAD


M3talpig

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On 19/05/2022 at 14:24, Cerberus said:

When you mentioned lamps I thought you were talking about the spots on your bench Steve, what you been doing? Filming the moon landings for NASA again... 🤣

There ex anti aircraft spots...useful for figure painting when your declared blind by your optometrist, there actually just part of the necessary equipment they go hand in hand with the bottle bottom glasses i have to use with them:nerd:....... 

On 19/05/2022 at 14:24, Cerberus said:

And, is it just me or do Tiger 1's look better with those early style/Tunisian front mudguards? They seem to fit the boxy look better, but anyway, fantastic brass work as normal, looking forward to more of this ;)

Agreed ...in fact i think they look damn good without the turret to ...but i refer you to the above answer:P  

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Tried some t-rex tracks (85008) for early tigers. And wow, the quality is amazing. The pins are so detailed and the tracks are amazing. No cleanup what so ever needed, just keep track of which pin to use.

 

Would definitely recommend now that Fruil tracks are getting harder to come by 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

So i think using the pipes that Tamiya gives you for the intake and outlet for the filters needs some work...i decided to order some surgical tube and see if i could make something a little more convincing.

 

The original pipes have a ridged look along their length as well as segmented sections to allow for flexibility, the ridges i thought i could do with very fine copper wire glued down the length, as for the flexi segments i wasn't sure what or how i was gonna do this until i saw a advert for alloy tape....so i ordered some and went to work.

 

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The tubes ..top to bottom the bare tube ...the tube with the wire glued on.... and finally the wrap of tape going on

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The two smaller tubes ready for modding

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The two finished ones , i think they will do... the flexi ridges aren't great but better than just a piece of rubber

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5 minutes ago, M3talpig said:

So i think using the pipes that Tamiya gives you for the intake and outlet for the filters needs some work...i decided to order some surgical tube and see if i could make something a little more convincing.

 

The original pipes have a ridged look along their length as well as segmented sections to allow for flexibility, the ridges i thought i could do with very fine copper wire glued down the length, as for the flexi segments i wasn't sure what or how i was gonna do this until i saw a advert for alloy tape....so i ordered some and went to work.

 

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The tubes ..top to bottom the bare tube ...the tube with the wire glued on.... and finally the wrap of tape going on

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The two smaller tubes ready for modding

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The two finished ones , i think they will do... the flexi ridges aren't great but better than just a piece of rubber

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Nothing wrong with playing with ya pipe old bean 🙂👍

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35 minutes ago, Andy J said:

Nothing wrong with playing with ya pipe old bean 🙂👍

I 100% agree..... although i feel i spent far to much time diddling my pipe than i should have ........ :D

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PE work is awesome as always ;)

 

5 hours ago, M3talpig said:

So i think using the pipes that Tamiya gives you for the intake and outlet for the filters needs some work

 I seem to remember that @Longbow a couple of pages back couldn't get any glues to stick to the Tamiya pipes? So I take it that the standard Tamiya pipes are complete garbage then? :hmmm:

 

 Matt (Dave)

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8 hours ago, Cerberus said:

PE work is awesome as always ;)

 

 I seem to remember that @Longbow a couple of pages back couldn't get any glues to stick to the Tamiya pipes? So I take it that the standard Tamiya pipes are complete garbage then? :hmmm:

 

 Matt (Dave)

Well it's a bit odd Dave..... i had the early kit with the grey box art and that one had plain rubber tube.... the mid production one had a rubber tubing with a woven nylon outer..... and the latest one which is the Tunisian Tiger had a textured rubber tube....and none of these choices look anything like the real pipes, for the life of me i don't understand why they didn't just injection mould them... any way i think @Longbow was trying to use the nylon covered ones which just fray at the ends no matter how careful you cut them, i'm not 100% happy with these as it was just an experiment, but it seems to have worked, so i'm gonna refine it and then cast them in resin, might even send a set to our man in merica.....:D

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So these are doable for now as i said gonna play with this idea see if i can get them a bit closer to the real pipes but for now i can live with these....

 

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56 minutes ago, M3talpig said:

So these are doable for now as i said gonna play with this idea see if i can get them a bit closer to the real pipes but for now i can live with these....

 

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Well... Who's a smart little Piglet, then :D

 

Very nice job there, Steve !!

 

On 5/20/2022 at 3:32 PM, ShogunBallistic said:

Tried some t-rex tracks (85008) for early tigers. And wow, the quality is amazing. The pins are so detailed and the tracks are amazing. No cleanup what so ever needed, just keep track of which pin to use.

 

Would definitely recommend now that Fruil tracks are getting harder to come by 

 

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I fully agree... These are superb tracks. I have a set for a Tiger and a couple of Panzer III/IV sets. 

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  • 3 weeks later...
Just now, ShogunBallistic said:

Any feedback on this?

I find the headless crew a little disturbing................ :P 

 

Really nicely done mate, painting and build look top notch and the finished article looks just right, well done mate :goodjob:

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1 hour ago, M3talpig said:

I find the headless crew a little disturbing

Those explosive snipers bullets are really unpleasant..............................

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Attempting to recover some mojo. 

What better, I thought, than some tiger restoration?

After the traumas with the link and length tracks on my Tiger I E I've been practicing setting up removable track-runs/rolling gear on a Pz III and a T80BV with some degree of success.

So now it's the Tigers turn.

y4mYJK8-6ROaYkxYroE5HgeaLpbUCZis_SM7SkV- 

 

I decided to tidy up the damaged sprocket to accommodate some links kindly supplied by a fellow Britmodeller.

y4mq9rT_W02IEhQtoIl7PATlfcmpuMiL1Qq8ezi2 This is the sprocket after link removal. Not a pretty sight!

 

The sprocket teeth at B are superfluous as they raise the outer end of the links and the tooth at A is stuck to one of the links I had to remove.

 

y4m69BumX0HSWxYxDhryIHclU0i1HFdpeINKqVtD So I removed one of the outer, intact, sprocket teeth from B and stuck it to the inner rim at A.

 Still needs some tidying but will, hopefully look better with track-links in place.

 

y4mOjig8kNTz8Q-x2F8X5AA9HXd1PK8dsCSDFcIl I started the sanding of the outer rim ready for the links that would otherwise sit on top of the sprocket teeth at B.

 

I'll probably find that the added rear tooth will be buried behind part of the rolling gear but, in case it isn't, it's there.

Edited by echen
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On 22/06/2022 at 11:50, echen said:

Attempting to recover some mojo. 

What better, I thought, than some tiger restoration?

After the traumas with the link and length tracks on my Tiger I E I've been practicing setting up removable track-runs/rolling gear on a Pz III and a T80BV with some degree of success.

So now it's the Tigers turn.

y4mYJK8-6ROaYkxYroE5HgeaLpbUCZis_SM7SkV- 

 

I decided to tidy up the damaged sprocket to accommodate some links kindly supplied by a fellow Britmodeller.

y4mq9rT_W02IEhQtoIl7PATlfcmpuMiL1Qq8ezi2 This is the sprocket after link removal. Not a pretty sight!

 

The sprocket teeth at B are superfluous as they raise the outer end of the links and the tooth at A is stuck to one of the links I had to remove.

 

y4m69BumX0HSWxYxDhryIHclU0i1HFdpeINKqVtD So I removed one of the outer, intact, sprocket teeth from B and stuck it to the inner rim at A.

 Still needs some tidying but will, hopefully look better with track-links in place.

 

y4mOjig8kNTz8Q-x2F8X5AA9HXd1PK8dsCSDFcIl I started the sanding of the outer rim ready for the links that would otherwise sit on top of the sprocket teeth at B.

 

I'll probably find that the added rear tooth will be buried behind part of the rolling gear but, in case it isn't, it's there.

Glad to see you haven't given up on it, a break away allows time to think, maybe come up with some solutions. Hope you get it finished.

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2 hours ago, M3talpig said:

Hope you get it finished

So do I. Planning some zim and more accurate exhaust stacks for this one.

And then I have another E to build based on techniques developed with this one.

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On 31/05/2022 at 20:00, M3talpig said:

So i think using the pipes that Tamiya gives you for the intake and outlet for the filters needs some work...i decided to order some surgical tube and see if i could make something a little more convincing.

 

The original pipes have a ridged look along their length as well as segmented sections to allow for flexibility, the ridges i thought i could do with very fine copper wire glued down the length, as for the flexi segments i wasn't sure what or how i was gonna do this until i saw a advert for alloy tape....so i ordered some and went to work.

 

spacer.png

 

The tubes ..top to bottom the bare tube ...the tube with the wire glued on.... and finally the wrap of tape going on

spacer.png

 

The two smaller tubes ready for modding

spacer.png

 

The two finished ones , i think they will do... the flexi ridges aren't great but better than just a piece of rubber

spacer.png

 

Great idea 👍

MD

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A bit of a curates egg job here.

Decided to progress the removable running gear for my Tiger I Ausf. E.

Having had issues in the past with a step appearing in the sprocket to first roadwheel I decided to fit the indy links and then the first diagonal length.

I fitted 9 as opposed to 8 specified as I wanted a realistic sag from the sprocket.

y4mH6Wtq_IjmWSbT53Hh7Be_Au2ic3uGd9gSjt-k

 

Having cleaned up the sprocket as much as possible I used @Sgt.Squarehead supplied (green) links with the length that came with the kit.

 

y4m6w0ap39bUS2cEQuKzwghaoC7_xqLAF8BXH5jc

 

I then dry fitted a couple of middle row wheels to the RHS and placed a long lower length of tracks under them. This was to try and ensure level LHS lower length. I cemented the bottom of the diagonal length to the first roller then slid the lower length under the wheels and cemented that too.

There is one inner wheel dry fitted to ensure that the rear diagonal to the idler goes past the inner roller.

Then I put the 8 indy links on the idler.

 

y4m8Eephb6AvVN_ALdZE17BIN9RXu1afMmQQy1er

 

The diagonal length cleared the inner wheel ok so I cemented it at both ends, trying to avoid cement on the inner roller. I left it to set for a while.

 

y4mmBWWFJuYGAVAIz3zxWQkKUU1EioUQ117eRoTZ

 

And was then able to remove the whole section. Unfortunately the inner wheel was fixed but it came off and tidied up ok.

 

Next was the top run. I used the long length first with a bend in it. Unfortunately the last indy links were not quite straight

 

y4mRcehC9NZZvtjiLUGeD0eWYlcDem5fxN_KxEHo There was a gap.

 

I added another link to the idler and then a cut down link from the ones I massacred when I cleaned up the sprocket. It is a little uneven but if I fit the rear fender section it might tone it down a little.

Also this made the track-run a smidge too long so I filed down a flat on the axle so that the idler could move back 0.5mm

 

y4mOkDh9G82IDLqgpdXZlGGzx-Uz6oZ1beuFGCO3

 

Getting the inner wheels to fit between the upper and lower track runs proved a little tiresome but I persuaded them in the end.

The whole lot is removable and dismantlable for painting.

Comment, criticisms or ideas for the RHS all welcome. 😅

 

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1 hour ago, echen said:

A bit of a curates egg job here.

Decided to progress the removable running gear for my Tiger I Ausf. E.

Having had issues in the past with a step appearing in the sprocket to first roadwheel I decided to fit the indy links and then the first diagonal length.

I fitted 9 as opposed to 8 specified as I wanted a realistic sag from the sprocket.

y4mH6Wtq_IjmWSbT53Hh7Be_Au2ic3uGd9gSjt-k

 

Having cleaned up the sprocket as much as possible I used @Sgt.Squarehead supplied (green) links with the length that came with the kit.

 

y4m6w0ap39bUS2cEQuKzwghaoC7_xqLAF8BXH5jc

 

I then dry fitted a couple of middle row wheels to the RHS and placed a long lower length of tracks under them. This was to try and ensure level LHS lower length. I cemented the bottom of the diagonal length to the first roller then slid the lower length under the wheels and cemented that too.

There is one inner wheel dry fitted to ensure that the rear diagonal to the idler goes past the inner roller.

Then I put the 8 indy links on the idler.

 

y4m8Eephb6AvVN_ALdZE17BIN9RXu1afMmQQy1er

 

The diagonal length cleared the inner wheel ok so I cemented it at both ends, trying to avoid cement on the inner roller. I left it to set for a while.

 

y4mmBWWFJuYGAVAIz3zxWQkKUU1EioUQ117eRoTZ

 

And was then able to remove the whole section. Unfortunately the inner wheel was fixed but it came off and tidied up ok.

 

Next was the top run. I used the long length first with a bend in it. Unfortunately the last indy links were not quite straight

 

y4mRcehC9NZZvtjiLUGeD0eWYlcDem5fxN_KxEHo There was a gap.

 

I added another link to the idler and then a cut down link from the ones I massacred when I cleaned up the sprocket. It is a little uneven but if I fit the rear fender section it might tone it down a little.

Also this made the track-run a smidge too long so I filed down a flat on the axle so that the idler could move back 0.5mm

 

y4mOkDh9G82IDLqgpdXZlGGzx-Uz6oZ1beuFGCO3

 

Getting the inner wheels to fit between the upper and lower track runs proved a little tiresome but I persuaded them in the end.

The whole lot is removable and dismantlable for painting.

Comment, criticisms or ideas for the RHS all welcome. 😅

 

Congratulations mate a job well saved ...... don't know how you managed that , you must have the patience of a saint because i think i woulda scraped it in the bin with all that agro with the tracks, seriously well done mate a win for sure. :party: 

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Posted (edited)

Pressing on.

y4mqAJmLbYVC95M1H0xomZ7_aX3N1A8uC9y66w9C

 

Aware of the risk of misaligned indy links from the LHS I dry fitted a long top length as a guide to the first link. With #1 set in place I added the remaining 8.

y4mnyJycsMpyjnDmAnOMZkuGfjGSZNAvhRjjkV2_

 

Then the short drop and the lower length.

y4mzj67dwMqM5bFYINUEqx7b1xU__msMCs_6rBAO

 

Followed by the top long length, a short top length and the beginning of the indy links around the idler culminatiing in.....

y4m9l9dUvcGjCKI-Z5ueyuPsXdyGmc-ju9lrzQPi

There were a couple of places where I had to remove the tabs from the end of a section to overcome a lack of fit under an already attached section. The single inner wheel again got stuck but came off ready for cleaning up and painting.

 

Next will be an attempt at modelling putty zim as opposed to filler zim which is proving a tad tricky to get rid of completely from where i added it earlier.

Edited by echen
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You've got the tracks looking good and I quite like the ghostly remnants of zim left on your Tiger. What did you decide to use for the new zim?

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