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Sd.Kfz 181 Tiger 1 SUPERTHREAD


M3talpig

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Thanks all. I got castle arts artist oils around Xmas time and they aren’t Windsor and newton but they are decent enough. I’ve painted some pictures, used on some dioramas, attempted figures (and swiftly gave up to try again another time, probably on a larger bust) and this is going to be first attempt on a tank. I was going to use for the streaks, stains and maybe some oil dot filter but wasn’t sure if ok for the dark wash for zim but does sound handy enough. I’m trying new techniques and experimenting a lot with this one anyway so why not give it a bash.

  Cheers

Paul.

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1 hour ago, Muchmirth said:

Thanks all. I got castle arts artist oils around Xmas time and they aren’t Windsor and newton but they are decent enough. I’ve painted some pictures, used on some dioramas, attempted figures (and swiftly gave up to try again another time, probably on a larger bust) and this is going to be first attempt on a tank. I was going to use for the streaks, stains and maybe some oil dot filter but wasn’t sure if ok for the dark wash for zim but does sound handy enough. I’m trying new techniques and experimenting a lot with this one anyway so why not give it a bash.

  Cheers

Paul.

The only/best advice I can give, is keep it thin and go slowly. 
Layers can be built up slowly in areas, and keep a damp clean brush handy to clean up. 
You can wipe your brush off, limiting the amount of thinner and pigment, to control the streaking.  
You can also stipple and blend your areas with a dry chisel brush and a stabby motion. 

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3 hours ago, Longbow said:

It’s done in layers. 

Very impressive, @Longbow. My attempts at oils have a long way to go but it's good to see what can be achieved.

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37 minutes ago, Stef N. said:

Oil washes over acrylic is ok. Just use some of the milder, modelling specific thinners.

@Stef N.That's certainly worth knowing. My base coats will be acrylic. Thanks for the tip.

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6 hours ago, Longbow said:

All of these effects were completed with three colors, in layers. 
Valleho Khaki and Chocolate Brown, and Burnt Umber oil. 
It’s done in layers. 
 

Lj2x7bl.jpg

Quite beautifully done Lee, looks well indeed. 

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2 hours ago, echen said:

@Stef N.That's certainly worth knowing. My base coats will be acrylic. Thanks for the tip.

This is the sort of thinner I use. More expensive than your hardware shop stuff but far less potent and far less likely to affect your acrylic paint. Every brand has their own version.

shopping?q=tbn:ANd9GcShgCedu52XubvjH5PAr

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3 hours ago, Stef N. said:

Oil washes over acrylic is ok. Just use some of the milder, modelling specific thinners.👍

I'm thinking more of the need to really seal the acrylics, as that finish and white spirit will not go together well!

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4 hours ago, Whitewolf said:

I use acrylics and hence oil wash is not ideal, but I suspect Florey type water based washes will do the same?

 

53 minutes ago, Whitewolf said:

I'm thinking more of the need to really seal the acrylics, as that finish and white spirit will not go together well!

Let’s  stop for a second… Oils and oil thinners will have zero effect on your acrylic base coats. 
The Sherman I’m working on is all acrylic, so far… No sealant of any kind, or varnish. 
All of the oil washes so far are straight on top of the acrylics. 
 

9a0Qa8J.jpg

 

Xo6iabY.jpg

 

RZVYB3I.jpg

 

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16 minutes ago, Longbow said:

 

Let’s  stop for a second… Oils and oil thinners will have zero effect on your acrylic base coats. 
The Sherman I’m working on is all acrylic, so far… No sealant of any kind, or varnish. 
All of the oil washes so far are straight on top of the acrylics. 
 

9a0Qa8J.jpg

 

Xo6iabY.jpg

 

RZVYB3I.jpg

 

Hmm....the return of the choc chip methinks 🤔

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7 minutes ago, Andy J said:

Hmm....the return of the choc chip methinks 🤔

Yes Andy, everyone remembers you chocolate chips…

 

But it’s good to see you, my friend!!

 

You still playing with the vroom vrooms ? 😆

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13 minutes ago, Longbow said:

Yes Andy, everyone remembers you chocolate chips…

 

But it’s good to see you, my friend!!

 

You still playing with the vroom vrooms ? 😆

Hiya mate I'm not playing with any model kits atm to busy with regular life chores I'm afraid 🙄

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27 minutes ago, Whitewolf said:

That looks great. Ok, you've applied a thinned oil wash over an acrylic base coat.....but what happens if you try to remove the excess with white spirit? 

You remove the oils you don’t want. 
Acrylics are water based or alcohol based, and white or mineral spirits are not. 
 

The spirits won’t effect the acrylic paints at all. 

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32 minutes ago, Whitewolf said:

That looks great. Ok, you've applied a thinned oil wash over an acrylic base coat.....but what happens if you try to remove the excess with white spirit? 

Do you paint the bottom of the vehicle 🤔

 

Mix up a bit of oil paint, thin it a bunch, and drip it on the hull bottom. 
Let it dry, blend it a bit… you’ll see it has no effect on the acrylic base coat. 

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10 hours ago, Andy J said:

Hiya mate I'm not playing with any model kits atm to busy with regular life chores I'm afraid 🙄

It's been like that for me too for quite a while now.. Nice to see you drop in again 👍  ..don't forget to come and lambast Mr Pigg occasionally :)

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11 hours ago, Longbow said:

You remove the oils you don’t want. 
Acrylics are water based or alcohol based, and white or mineral spirits are not. 
 

The spirits won’t effect the acrylic paints at all. 

I agree with the estimable gentleman, with the proviso that you must make sure that your acrylic paint is fully dry, not just touch dry before applying the oil wash. To get all technical paints are composed of three (main) elements, pigment, binder and solvent (yes it is more complicated than that I know). Pigment is the coloured substance and the binder is the stuff that forms a film of pigment. Solvent is the stuff that make it runny. As a paint dries firstly the solvent evaporates, this happens quite quickly in acrylic paint, more slowly with oil based, leaving behind pigment and binder. Touch dry. The binder then sets. Fully dry. At this point you have a film of bound pigment. Depending on the solvent you use in the next paint you apply the paint should not be affected. Try it on a test piece before wrecking a model that you have spent many hours on. The other alternative is to use acrylic washes. You can get very good acrylic washes by adding a "Flow Enhancer" to your diluted paint (I use Windsor & Newton). 

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1 hour ago, Rumblestripe said:

I agree with the estimable gentleman, with the proviso that you must make sure that your acrylic paint is fully dry, not just touch dry before applying the oil wash. To get all technical paints are composed of three (main) elements, pigment, binder and solvent (yes it is more complicated than that I know). Pigment is the coloured substance and the binder is the stuff that forms a film of pigment. Solvent is the stuff that make it runny. As a paint dries firstly the solvent evaporates, this happens quite quickly in acrylic paint, more slowly with oil based, leaving behind pigment and binder. Touch dry. The binder then sets. Fully dry. At this point you have a film of bound pigment. Depending on the solvent you use in the next paint you apply the paint should not be affected. Try it on a test piece before wrecking a model that you have spent many hours on. The other alternative is to use acrylic washes. You can get very good acrylic washes by adding a "Flow Enhancer" to your diluted paint (I use Windsor & Newton). 


Yes, this is very true. 
Try and drop spirits onto wet acrylic and you get a curdled milk type look. 
 

Ask me how I know 🤣

 

But saying that, it leaves a good effect for muddy wheels 🤣

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22 hours ago, Whitewolf said:

I use acrylics and hence oil wash is not ideal, but I suspect Florey type water based washes will do the same?

I use Mig for all my base and colour coats now and matt base 502 thinner and W&N oils .....no problems in fact it is recommended as the thinner will not react with the underlying paint...but take care if using Tamiya or Mr color as these are solvent based acrylic paints and can be attacked by the enamel thinner....... Mig and AK paints are not solvent based and so there is no reaction when used in conjunction with Enamel washes and panel lining

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2 hours ago, M3talpig said:

I use Mig for all my base and colour coats now and matt base 502 thinner and W&N oils .....no problems in fact it is recommended as the thinner will not react with the underlying paint...but take care if using Tamiya or Mr color as these are solvent based acrylic paints and can be attacked by the enamel thinner....... Mig and AK paints are not solvent based and so there is no reaction when used in conjunction with Enamel washes and panel lining

Many thanks for that! I'm using migammo as base coat. So no worries.

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