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Bristol Belvedere HC1 - Airfix 1/72


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1 hour ago, CedB said:

All that handling has taken its toll…

 

Time to pull another one?

Now look here! It's a bit early for that sort of thing, dontcha think?

I was going to suggest filling the canopy gap with card glued to the fuselage. You could square up the canopy lower edge to it.

Finish off with a smear of filler. No one would be any the wiser. Except us, and we won't tell. Honest Guv.

 

Thanks for the kind offer re the Bristol Freighter, Ced. It's rather a glue bomb and has developed some frightening cracks as I've tried to dismantle it.

Missing wheels, props and a tailplane. Restoration was a nice thought, but I think I'll use it in a Sci fi scratchbuild in the near future. 

Bristols in space, eh?  F'nar!

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LookWot I dun- mould new bubble - check.

Cut ruffly round to shape.

Set the roof level then slice gently away at the lower back and floor level still paring gently away.

Remember the nose looks tilted down and forward anyway and keep skinning little bits off the lower sides so the lower bubble bit can get closer to the shut line.

If gentle most of said big gap will shrink.

Then add 560, wetted.

Then make yourself one of them posh coffees your machine does for you.

 

 

Or make another with even deeper drawdown.

 

 

 

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3 hours ago, 825 said:

You might find a thicker PVA glue will fill the gap a little better. Even standard PVA from a DIY shop will work. Once the gaps filled and it's dried clear, paint it with the interior colour. You don't need to have the gap lovely and smooth at this point just filled. Then use a fine filler like PPP to tidy up the join and paint it the exterior colour. I prefer PPP for this as it can be smoothed using a damp finger or cotton bud. But other brands are available. 

 

Great work work and big kudos for vac forming your own canopy. Way above what I would even think about trying. 

Thanks! :) 

PPP will be seen soon…

 

3 hours ago, Pete in Lincs said:

Now look here! It's a bit early for that sort of thing, dontcha think?

I was going to suggest filling the canopy gap with card glued to the fuselage. You could square up the canopy lower edge to it.

Finish off with a smear of filler. No one would be any the wiser. Except us, and we won't tell. Honest Guv.

 

Thanks for the kind offer re the Bristol Freighter, Ced. It's rather a glue bomb and has developed some frightening cracks as I've tried to dismantle it.

Missing wheels, props and a tailplane. Restoration was a nice thought, but I think I'll use it in a Sci fi scratchbuild in the near future. 

Bristols in space, eh?  F'nar!

Cheers Pete :) 

Fnaar indeed! Do let me know if you need anything though…

 

32 minutes ago, perdu said:

LookWot I dun- mould new bubble - check.

Cut ruffly round to shape.

Set the roof level then slice gently away at the lower back and floor level still paring gently away.

Remember the nose looks tilted down and forward anyway and keep skinning little bits off the lower sides so the lower bubble bit can get closer to the shut line.

If gentle most of said big gap will shrink.

Then add 560, wetted.

Then make yourself one of them posh coffees your machine does for you.

 

 

Or make another with even deeper drawdown.

 

Thanks Bill :D 

 

I'm waiting for the ClearFix to dry then we'll take a view - I can always chop it off later (bit harsh, snurf)

 

In the meantime I've moved on to the top bits:

 

50732354706_2d7767c424_z.jpg

 

 

Flashy.

The parts, not my bench.

One done:

 

50732451472_42010d5554_z.jpg

 

 

Can you see which?

No, me neither.

It's the one on the right but it still needs more and the other is better, it appears.

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On 05/12/2020 at 16:50, Ruskin Air Services said:

Always save the clean straight pieces, as cut to reasonable lengths they make great paint stirrers 

Wooden coffee stirrers for paint , available from all well known outlets , I have a tub of em......

 

The sprue is better for making internal bracing when you have to spread fuselages etc.....

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26 minutes ago, Paulaero said:

Wooden coffee stirrers for paint , available from all well known outlets , I have a tub of em......

Also cocktail sticks (toothpicks) cheap readily available and if shaved make great struts.

 

30 minutes ago, CedB said:

I can always chop it off later (bit harsh, snurf)

I suppose at your age you don’t get to use it that often anyway (wahey !)

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A suggestion re: masking frameless canopies.

 

1. First, create temporary frames using appropriately sized strips of masking tape. Apply per references and mark them so as not to confuse them with the windows.

2. Next, mask the windows with your favorite masking material.

3. When the windows are all masked, remove the temporary frames you applied in step 1. If you have used a liquid mask on the window areas, you will need to carefully slice through it along the edges of the frames before removing them. (I prefer to mask the edges of the windows with tape butted up next to the temporary frames, then apply liquid mask to the remainder of the window, then remove the temporary tape frames.)

4. Paint exposed frames interior color.

5. When interior color is dry, paint frames exterior color.

6. Remove window masks. Voila! Bob's yer uncle.

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4 hours ago, Paulaero said:

Wooden coffee stirrers for paint , available from all well known outlets , I have a tub of em......

 

The sprue is better for making internal bracing when you have to spread fuselages etc.....

Ah yes. You can always tell the modellers in coffee shops, furtively hovering by the stirrers… :D 

I'll keep the sprue runners from this though - some weird shapes!

 

4 hours ago, Marklo said:

Also cocktail sticks (toothpicks) cheap readily available and if shaved make great struts.

 

I suppose at your age you don’t get to use it that often anyway (wahey !)

Oi, cheeky! True, but cheeky! :D 

 

46 minutes ago, Space Ranger said:

A suggestion re: masking frameless canopies.

 

1. First, create temporary frames using appropriately sized strips of masking tape. Apply per references and mark them so as not to confuse them with the windows.

2. Next, mask the windows with your favorite masking material.

3. When the windows are all masked, remove the temporary frames you applied in step 1. If you have used a liquid mask on the window areas, you will need to carefully slice through it along the edges of the frames before removing them. (I prefer to mask the edges of the windows with tape butted up next to the temporary frames, then apply liquid mask to the remainder of the window, then remove the temporary tape frames.)

4. Paint exposed frames interior color.

5. When interior color is dry, paint frames exterior color.

6. Remove window masks. Voila! Bob's yer uncle.

Great tip, thanks Michael :) 

 

 

I've just checked Bill's mods on the rotor heads.

 

 

He's chopped out the kit 'arched selectors' and replaced them with wire.

Good grief, tiny, tiny engineering, too much for me.

I'll put some counterweights in though, I think.

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2 hours ago, CedB said:

Can you see which?

No, me neither.

It's the one on the right but it still needs more and the other is better, it appears.

Yeah me too

 

Listen I wi...

 

Please remember that the front blades rotate anticlockwise and the rear blades rotate clockwise from above.

 

And that there is always a space between each overlapping set.

 

And the cutting out little pieces for the rotor headgear, no I wouldn't do it again.

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Nice fix Ced. I was going to suggest krystal clear but the clear fix seems like the same stuff. Pretty much what I did on my Blenheim canopy. Fill hole with clear stuff, paint internal then fill again if need be and paint top coat. The new canopy is leagues above the kit with that silly seam. 👏👏👏

 

Johnny

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16 hours ago, perdu said:

Yeah me too

 

Listen I wi...

 

Please remember that the front blades rotate anticlockwise and the rear blades rotate clockwise from above.

 

And that there is always a space between each overlapping set.

 

And the cutting out little pieces for the rotor headgear, no I wouldn't do it again.

Thanks Bill :) 

I'll watch the blades and make sure they go the right way.

And I feel nicely vindicated for not fiddling with the rotor heads now thanks, what a relief!

 

1 hour ago, The Spadgent said:

Nice fix Ced. I was going to suggest krystal clear but the clear fix seems like the same stuff. Pretty much what I did on my Blenheim canopy. Fill hole with clear stuff, paint internal then fill again if need be and paint top coat. The new canopy is leagues above the kit with that silly seam. 👏👏👏

 

Johnny

Thanks Johnny - done! :) 

 

 

50734929653_96a48a2296_z.jpg

 

Now to fill.

My plastic tube of PPP has finally given up - can't get any out this morning.

Luckily I'd bought one of the new metal tubes some time ago as I saw it coming:

 

50734940468_6843d3fd77_z.jpg

 

I now realise why I could never perfect the 'wipe it with a wet finger' technique. The old tube was obviously delivering filler that was semi-dried, even with Bill's 'drop of water in the top' method.

This is like different stuff!

We shall see if I can use it!

First fill drying now…

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Well done with the canopy, Ced :clap:

Oddly enough, I've just experienced the same issue with my PPP plastic tube (it's a few years old, TBH). Good to know they introduced a new packaging :thumbsup:

 

Ciao 

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With my ppp I find I have to take off the nozzle and dig out the filler with a small spatula. Even though it’s not set it just doesn’t want to squeeze out, despite the fact that I keep all my fillers ( and I have many) in an airtight jar.

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On 12/18/2020 at 4:01 AM, hendie said:

I cannot believe nobody fnaar'd that one!

 

I myself am lost for words, Alan. I try my hardest to give everyone the perfect set-up and then it's ignored!

I will make no further references to the size of Ced's chopper, or the fact that it looks marvelous with it's new front end. Even BEFORE he gives it a wipe with a wet finger!

 

Ian

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4 hours ago, giemme said:

Well done with the canopy, Ced :clap:

Oddly enough, I've just experienced the same issue with my PPP plastic tube (it's a few years old, TBH). Good to know they introduced a new packaging :thumbsup:

 

Ciao 

2 hours ago, Marklo said:

With my ppp I find I have to take off the nozzle and dig out the filler with a small spatula. Even though it’s not set it just doesn’t want to squeeze out, despite the fact that I keep all my fillers ( and I have many) in an airtight jar.

Thanks Giorgio and Mark :) 

Yep, the plastic tubes are a pain, which I guess is why they've changed to metal tubes:

 

50736285036_5b3c08253b_z.jpg

 

 

Despite trying to make sure that there's no air in the plastic tube, putting a drop of water in the top before carefully screwing the top back on and storing it 'nose down' it still seems to dry out. I can feel there's some squidgy stuff in the tube still so I may chop it open when I need a large amount.

The stuff in the new tube though - I can't tell you how much better it is. Beautifully smooth and filling like a, er, Deluxe Material!

 

54 minutes ago, Brandy said:

I myself am lost for words, Alan. I try my hardest to give everyone the perfect set-up and then it's ignored!

I will make no further references to the size of Ced's chopper, or the fact that it looks marvelous with it's new front end. Even BEFORE he gives it a wipe with a wet finger!

 

Ian

Ian I am so sorry. I will do my best to pull my socks up, gird my loins and get my shoulder back to the proverbial grindstone.

I hope you're happy with the state of my chopper - I've been smoothing it off all morning (fnaar, snort) :D 

 

 

First wet sanding.

Side view:

 

50736389907_46486df8b2_z.jpg

 

Note the small dob of Krystal Klear behind the window where a small gap was evident.

Johnny I used this to be able to talk about the difference. I think KK is good for small areas and blobs (e.g. nav lights) but ClearFix will do wider gaps and bigger windows I think.

 

Bottom:

 

50736390697_bcda7da701_z.jpg

 

Another wipe over required but the basic shape is there I think.

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7 hours ago, CedB said:

The stuff in the new tube though - I can't tell you how much better it is.

 

You're lucky Ced, mine is exactly the same (actually it might be worse) than the stuff in the old plastic tube. I say it might be worse as I'm comparing a metal tube I opened two months ago with what was left in the plastic tube I chucked out at the same time - so in theory the new stuff should be better, but isn't. If you see what I mean! It's really dry and fairly gritty coming out of the tube & I have to mix it with a drop or two of water to get it usable.... maybe it's a Friday afternoon tube!

 

Anyways, your Brizzle is coming along very nicely!

 

Keith

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PPP. I thought it was just me having trouble with the stuff. I bought my first tube a few months ago and was surprised at how difficult

it was to get some out of the tube. Which is metal, BTW. It's only slightly dry coming out, but a bit of spit smooths it nicely.

I've found that I still need Humbrol filler or Milliput for larger filling jobs though.

 

The canopy is coming along nicely, Ced.

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My favourite was the old squadron green stuff, but they changed it then stopped making it, I now generally use Tamiya putty or milliput( more for sculpting than filling) and use PPP or liquid green stuff if I’m filling a part that’s been painted or finished. I find Sometimes PPP shrinks and czz as n be seen after being painted so needs a few layers to fill properly.

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4 hours ago, Pete in Lincs said:

PPP. I thought it was just me having trouble with the stuff.

I've had challenges with it also Pete and like Marklo still prefer Green Stuff or Milliput. I think its these Acrylic fillers generally that I find challenging.

 

Terry

 

 

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20 minutes ago, Terry1954 said:

I think its these Acrylic fillers generally that I find challenging.

 

I tried the Valejo one years ago - that went straight in the bin - they may have improved it since.

 

I only really use PPP for small gaps and scratches where it's great for just applying and smoothing off with a damp cotton bud. My favourite filler for big gaps now is, even though I hate the stuff, superglue sprinkled with bicarb of soda. Adds strength to a join, dries and can be sanded just about instantly, can be scribed and leaves a lovely smooth finish. I read somewhere recently someone saying they had long term problems with it cracking, but I've been using it on and off for years and haven't noticed that - unlike the sinkage and ghost seams model fillers can produce ages after being used.  

 

Keith

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48 minutes ago, keefr22 said:

I tried the Valejo one years ago

Forgot to mention that one. It’s ok but doesn’t stick all that well. But from time to time has its uses.

 

I did see a good video on using CA with mig gunmetal pigment( which I bought) and will try this on a build in the near future ( maybe the FW190 if it needs it)

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On 15/12/2020 at 11:29, CedB said:

50721853208_067d868e5e_z.jpg

 

Look OK?

 

I see bossy boots leia is overseeing again !!

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Thanks Keith, Pete, Mark and Terry :) 

Looks like I got lucky with my tube, fingers crossed!

 

Of course I've got most of the fillers - tools over skill, that's my motto - but my 'go tos' at the moment are Humbrol for structure, PPP for wider gaps and 'ramps' and Vallejo for small ones and, of course, Milliput for lumps.

I must give the CA and flour/talc a go sometime.

 

 

1 hour ago, Whofan said:

I see bossy boots leia is overseeing again !!

Always John, always. Nice buns - fnaar! :D 

 

1 hour ago, perdu said:

"He only has one job..."

At a time Bill, at a time :D

 

 

Masking the windows.

I imported a drawing into Studio and, having measured the lower side windows, scaled the drawing and cut the rest:

 

50738908173_d776e6b8a9_o.png

 

The protruding side windows had already been masked, as had the smily front:

 

50739643706_0a5ae07a28_z.jpg

 

You can just see the lower window there.

 

The rest though don't fit:

 

50738906518_484839cfd1_z.jpg

 

That tape is just marking the centre.

Not good eh?

That's what you get for trying to design masks for a 3D shape from a 2D drawing.

I can easily change the design and re-cut, of course, but the mojo's down now.

If it weren't for the rounded window edges I think I'd just mask by eye.

I shall ponder.

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47 minutes ago, CedB said:

That's what you get for trying to design masks for a 3D shape from a 2D drawing

I can see that. How about trying the other way round? I mean, cover the canopy with masking tape, draw the frame lines, remove the tape, stick it onto a paper sheet, scan and import into Silhouette software. Maybe in sections,  seeing the clear part shape...

 

Ciao 

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You seem to have the idea but you are forgetting to use proper resources

Photos show that the eyebrow windows are much smaller than your image shows.

https://images.app.goo.gl/cwXuTUGnMSwoj2im8

The main screen panes are flat, the tinted roof panels are tinted and not quite that big.

Take a look at Google Bristol belvedere images, absolutely crawling with decent shots.

Amongst the usual distorted dross.

 

 

 

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