mbthejester Posted November 21, 2020 Share Posted November 21, 2020 Hi All, having a bash at doing figures for my diorama, and as they are a first I am on a learning curve, one is a Mini Art the other is a Resicast, difference in detail is dramatic, but a big issue is getting the flesh colour right and on nicely, they seem to be too Pink or too White and even thinned 70 % thinner it is still stodgy and lumpy, using MIG flesh tone set, and a magnifying glass, already cleaned off a couple of times and redone. pointers gratefully accepted Cheers Mark 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noelh Posted November 22, 2020 Share Posted November 22, 2020 I would go for a more of a tanned appearance because of course they were outside most of the time in all weathers. Plus they'll have dirty faces from recently being in action or just hurtling down dusty roads. I would start with a darker base which you can gradually lighten and highlight. Faces are not just monotone. It's a bit like applying makeup. Start with a base and add some highlights. But as with everything less is more. Check out photos of tank crew from the time. Actually stills from the movie Fury are a good example. Also with eyes, avoid white, tone it down. Use light blue, grey or light brown for the eye colour. Generally I would do the eyes first then the face. It's tricky but when you get the hang of it. It's very satisfying. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbthejester Posted November 22, 2020 Author Share Posted November 22, 2020 Cheers for that much appreciated, any suggestions for make of paint ? The mig I have goes on very lumpy almost as if it dries to quickly even thinned thanks again Mark 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noelh Posted November 22, 2020 Share Posted November 22, 2020 The problem with Mig paint is that it dries too quickly being acrylic. There are people who can use acrylics to good effect though. Conversely artist oils dry very slowly but allow lots of time for blending. The experts in oils can turn out some beautiful model faces. I've usually used enamels though. Doesn't dry too quickly but allows time for adjustments. I would start off a wood or leather base. Then highlight the high points, forehead, nose, chin, cheeks with a lighter colour. Dry brushing works well. Stay away from white around the eyes. Just a dot will do. After adding eyebrows, lip colour, not lipstick. After that you can use a thin wash of brown to simulate grime or just to add depth to the face. That's really all there is to it. I haven't tried it but it might work with an acrylic paint. It doesn't have to be perfect at the scale but it avoids the shop dummy look. Hope that helps. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbthejester Posted November 23, 2020 Author Share Posted November 23, 2020 Brilliant thank you Noel, will try that approach cheers Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted November 23, 2020 Share Posted November 23, 2020 I have had good success using skin flesh washes . You put your flesh colour on first then when dry put some flesh wash on and let it run into all the cracks in the face let it dry .Then you can highlight with your base colour as required, thats how i do and it works ,but you will get lots of different ways of doing it off other people so you have to experiment, anyway good luck . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbthejester Posted November 23, 2020 Author Share Posted November 23, 2020 Cheers Homer thank you for your tip, very much appreciated 👍👍👍got some more figures coming so will try with them, have some heads to practice on as I will not need them thanks Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dads203 Posted November 23, 2020 Share Posted November 23, 2020 Get yourself a flesh painting pack, usually comes with 5 or 6 bottles of various flesh tones. I use the AK flesh tone painting pack, it makes it easier to get the right tones. Acrylics do take a bit of getting used too but with retarder are every bit as good as any other medium for painting and blending. https://ak-interactive.com/product/flesh-and-skin-colors-set/ This is what I managed with the set:- 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oileanach Posted November 24, 2020 Share Posted November 24, 2020 On 11/22/2020 at 8:53 PM, mbthejester said: Cheers for that much appreciated, any suggestions for make of paint ? The mig I have goes on very lumpy almost as if it dries to quickly even thinned thanks again Mark Like Dads suggested, you could try a different skin tone set. I mainly use Vallejo paints and their Model Color (sic) 'Faces Painting Set' even comes with a handy 'how to' guide for reference. I tend to buy my paint from these guys: https://www.snmstuff.co.uk/product-category/vallejo-products/vallejo-products-vallejo-model-color-sets/ I don't use any retarder, but I do use very thin paint. I live in a 'soft' water area, so just tap water, but if you have issues with chalky water their thinners are excellent, too. Loving the build so far. 😀 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbthejester Posted November 26, 2020 Author Share Posted November 26, 2020 Thanks for all the great info everyone, very much appreciated Cheers Mark 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbthejester Posted November 28, 2020 Author Share Posted November 28, 2020 Got the lifecolour set, brushes much better than the mig set, had a go on some Tamiya infantry, and also on the Resicast tankie, used some of mig very dark colour to try a wash, I am pretty pleased with result, not brilliant esp compared to some on BM. love the Resicast basin haircut cheers Mark 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Dave S Posted December 28, 2020 Share Posted December 28, 2020 Very medieval hairstyle! "Once more unto the breach, dear friends!" Looking nice so far. One suggestion, which others may have made already, is to try painting in daylight. It helps to show colours and contrasts. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbthejester Posted January 2, 2021 Author Share Posted January 2, 2021 Hair cut is definitely a strange one to use my work area is not the best as it is quite dark with back to window, not much I can to improve, but I do use as close to daylight as possible led lights, Done a bit more, a little touching up and a little dirt and stains and I think that will do it, used some Archer decals, struggled with them, have to rub them down onto a wet media sheet, then use as a normal one, some would just not rub off and some that I did not want to use just came away. Cheers Mark 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhoenixII Posted January 2, 2021 Share Posted January 2, 2021 14 hours ago, mbthejester said: Hair cut is definitely a strange one to use Done a bit more, a little touching up and a little dirt and stains and I think that will do it, The haircut is a proper, 'field cut, short back and sides', otherwise know as a basin cut. Remember to wash behind yer ears! Dirt and stains, boot's didn't tend to get cleaned often, muck 'em up. Uniform, elbows, knees (inc. front of the thighs) and posterior! Remember, it wasn't a shower every morning, they could be classed as being a little 'ripe'! If the bloke carrying the 'flimsy' is the driver, he was also the mechanic, where better to wipe yer hands.............. Paul (Dad was a tankie, North Africa, Italy and Austria) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbthejester Posted January 9, 2021 Author Share Posted January 9, 2021 (edited) Nearly done, nice and filthy as per the tips above- thanks muchly, bit of touch up and matt varnish and that will do I think. could really do with some advice on painting flesh, I have got Mig, AK and Lifecolor, Lifecolor brushes the easiest but it still goes on lumpy and stodgy, drying on brush too quick due to small amount on brush - possibly? But no such issues painting very small parts in different colours got me baffled. cheers Mark Edited January 11, 2021 by mbthejester Spelling 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbthejester Posted January 24, 2021 Author Share Posted January 24, 2021 (edited) Blitzed the rest of the figures over last week or so, still struggling with the flesh colours, just cannot get a nice finish, might try air brushing if I do any more, Don't think they are too bad overall, decals are a mix of Archer and Peddinghaus, Had problems with the Archer rub down, and after contacting them, they will be doing all the British ones on one sheet as waterslide 👍 Even the phones camera recognised each individual face after seeing the photos, I could see some of the grime looked a bit not right, so have carefully picked it off in places. cheers Mark Edited January 24, 2021 by mbthejester 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nimrod484 Posted January 30, 2021 Share Posted January 30, 2021 I use a combination of Vallejo flesh paints eg sunny skin tone and AK reddish colours. I prefer a khaki base. Flesh colours in most sets are just too pink for my taste, especially as I do North Africa campaign figures. One thing I learnt was to use thin layers. Check out Ian E videos on YouTube. He uses a wet pallet. So keep the paint diluted and add to face in specific areas of highlight or shadow... wait a few minutes til dry then add same thinned colour again. Avoid dumping too much paint on the face. Takes two or three repeats to build colour depth subtly. I do highlights first. I am still learning, too. I found the info at this website useful. Scroll down on the website to see good diagrams to guide colour placement. http://griffonsroostpainting.com/tag/miniature-painting/ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbthejester Posted January 31, 2021 Author Share Posted January 31, 2021 Cheers for tips much appreciated, will see how it goes on next figures, even 50/50 thinners I still found they went stodgy too quick, next ones will be WW1 era. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nimrod484 Posted January 31, 2021 Share Posted January 31, 2021 Sure, but not 50/50. Still too thick... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dads203 Posted January 31, 2021 Share Posted January 31, 2021 7 hours ago, mbthejester said: Cheers for tips much appreciated, will see how it goes on next figures, even 50/50 thinners I still found they went stodgy too quick, next ones will be WW1 era. If you use thinners then you will disturb the last layers you painted, thin with water - this won’t soften the previous coats and make it stodgy. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbthejester Posted January 31, 2021 Author Share Posted January 31, 2021 3 hours ago, Dads203 said: If you use thinners then you will disturb the last layers you painted, thin with water - this won’t soften the previous coats and make it stodgy. Brilliant thank you , much appreciated for that, so much to learn, figures are not an easy thing for sure 👍👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dads203 Posted January 31, 2021 Share Posted January 31, 2021 It’s a skill that you have to work at mate but you still have to have the right tools to do the job and an understanding of how paint interacts with other mediums. Good quality brushes and paints are top of the list and get your head into YouTube, loads of great videos showing how to start off. I started to explain on my latest build on how to paint faces until it went south but you try and get some pointers here buddy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now