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Gluing metal parts


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In a work superglue.

 

For PE railings an activator is useful, but these destroy paint. So rather than spraying the activator onto the model, spray into an old plastic cap and apply with a cocktail stick. Apply the activator after the part is fitted as it sets very fast. once I put activator into the hole in the deck and the superglue set instantly it touched the activator preventing the part entering the hole.

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My choice is G-S Hypo cement.  The tube has a syringe type applicator that is perfect for applying to tiny areas.  It is a slow acting gel, which means that I can move the railings and other tiny parts into position and still have time to correct any placement problems.  It is clear, so it is also useful for cementing canopies and other clear parts.

 

Mike

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I struggle to get consistent results with superglue - maybe mine has gone off. I now use Gator Grip, which is a derived PVA with good grab. The thin version I use is quite fast drying and invisible. Not sure if can be overpainted as I can hardly see the railing let alone the glue that holds it or any paint on top of it! @Ex-FAAWAFU is an advocate for it too and I was put onto it by him in one of his builds.

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For railings, I put a little CA at one end (or middle, whatever works best for the specific part) to start, and then use an acrylic glue, like Gator Grip or Formula 560 Canopy Glue on the rest.

 

Most importantly, make sure the railings fit as exactly as possible before reaching for the glue. 

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