Jump to content

Fuyuzuki, Rainbow, 1/700


Recommended Posts

Time for another destroyer, this time full hull, so thankfully no seascape ;) Kit itself looks like this:

 

50617137568_e40f569530_o.jpg

 

For now, I just whacked it all into my 'dry dock' and I'm going to attack it with the saw in the evening. 

 

50617851582_3a5342709d_o.jpg

 

Hull casting is very nice, detail of the deck is crisp ( linoleum part of the deck comes as PE ) only downside of it is hull plating, but nothing that can't be solved swiftly.

Some pics of the hull:

 

50617852837_9737c07386_o.jpg

 

50617744916_2be4c2e7d4_o.jpg

 

50617743786_c0e3a3c4f8_o.jpg

 

50617008573_8bb5906245_o.jpg

 

50617745436_a28e88b201_o.jpg

 

50617853817_58d41dd735_o.jpg

 

Cheers

Mick

Edited by Michael M
  • Like 6
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

On closer look superstructures and funnel had 'steps' i presume leftovers from 3D printing. Hull had a slight trim to bow, but that could have been my saw work ;) Nothing that was complicated. I used same stuff as always, Tamiya putty (filler), CA, and Tamiya primer. 

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Plating done, decks in place, rudder as well. Time for degaussing cable and portholes...

 

50705849636_685158b24d_o.jpg

 

50705849751_b3eba92b00_o.jpg

 

It's hard to take a photo of it, before all the fun with colors, but you can see them.... sort  of  

 

50705849841_581cee3444_o.jpg

 

50705112758_261e72c799_o.jpg

 

Cheers

Mick 

  • Like 8
Link to post
Share on other sites

Just caught up with this again builds are coming thick and fast around here to keep up is the plating done the same way as the Danton with the tape  :book:

 

looking great so far

 

Stay Safe

beefy

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yup, tape and primer, that's the best and most foolproof way of doing it. +1 layer will get more pronounced after adding cable and portholes, because they'll need to be 'integrated' into the hull with another layer of primer. I'll mask the 0 layer for that process.

On 700's and small 350's  I use airbrush for that job, on bigger girls like Danton its rattle can primer.

Edited by Michael M
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...

It's been some time since the last update, but it wasn't idle time ;) Base colors on the hull, only thing left is linoleum, which I'm going to tackle from tomorrow on ;) 

 

50824522733_949f13ccf5_o.jpg

 

50825268806_774c4fbfe5_o.jpg

 

50824522863_ecd75f9de7_o.jpg

 

50825268881_3eb3aa3e4f_o.jpg

 

50825361047_86ba8e6a9e_o.jpg

 

50824523343_cfb564aab4_o.jpg

 

50825361182_86a9344607_o.jpg

 

50825361322_06d28ba71b_o.jpg

 

Cheers

Mick

Edited by Michael M
  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hull plating really stands out did you mask each part or did you pre shade first :book:

 

Looking great so far 

 

Stay Safe 

beefy 

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

It was many stage process Beefy, but in short it was done streak by streak, first shaded, then separate plates. After all were done I misted all of it with base color to dull down the effect. I admit, I'm quite happy with the result ;) It's further development of the method and colors I used on Nagatsuki. 

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

The Hull plating is superb - I've just tried it on Griffn and failed miserably:lol:

 

The Corticene/linoelum is so, so effective - turning into an epic build :coolio:

Rob

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks :)

Plating is many stage process and getting right sequence and colors took me some time :) Weather you actually make the alternative streaks raised and depressed or not, you can get the similar effect with just the right paint job. You paint the whole ship in uniform 'middle tone. Then the raised streaks you highlight towards the top, in 1/700 2 highlights should be enough. Similarly on depressed streaks you put on 2 shadows also towards the top. Then plate joints, it has to be 2 different shades as well because you want similar degree of contrast on different streaks, so the panel lines have to be a bit brighter on the raised streaks. When all that is done you put  on a filter, misting it over the whole thing, of your final hull color. That last stage is crucial, if you overdo it, all your previous work is lost ;) 

Have fun 

Cheers

Mick

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Some lovely work as always Mick, great paint job. There's sooo much PE with this kit, what are you using to stik it all down with?

 

Geoff

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks. About the glue, that depends on the situation. First glue is almost always BCG (Brand Clear Glue), it's kind of kids glue, non toxic, no scent, no nothing haha. Its like veeeeery watered down PVA. It's biggest advantage, even over PVA, is the fact that it virtually has no 'thickness' Where possible I add some CA to strengthen the bond. For flat elements like port holes or closed doors a layer of primer airbrushed over is enough. I also use PVA, CA, for gluing decks to hull i use Tamiya primer put on wit the brush... 

  • Thanks 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Grey parts of hull and decks washed. there'll be another darker wash for insides of portholes, but that's when these will dry.

 

50875074393_c6de17d8cc_o.jpg

 

50875781141_46a780ea83_o.jpg

 

50875781166_f010147838_o.jpg

 

50875074418_e26d29d3c2_o.jpg

 

 

In the meantime I'm putting up more gold ;)

 

50875911247_d454cdbc35_o.jpg

 

50875886217_5dd6fb4bd3_o.jpg

 

50875886447_992efecb26_o.jpg

 

50875886377_93ec85c8b8_o.jpg

 

50875886262_f5e00d7ed5_o.jpg

 

50875781206_fa029f94e0_o.jpg

 

Cheers 

Mick

  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...