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So, in other words, an Italian Bristol Pegasus or similar. I guess my original build from 50 odd years ago is similarly afflicted. :(

Steve.

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23 hours ago, stevehnz said:

So, in other words, an Italian Bristol Pegasus or similar. I guess my original build from 50 odd years ago is similarly afflicted. :(

Steve.

At that time I was not born yet to warn You 😉(nor internet, time mashine do not exist as far I know ), but You could always build another one - Airfix SM.79 really fits to mesaures and drawings.

And for Victory-is-in-the-Kitchen (a good nick👍) well , my Airfix SM.79 is on hold for some time, it will be with open fuselage door so ...

Anyway, I have some resin Bristol Mercury engines waiting  (actually didn't check difference visually - my option, for now ) but is 9 cylinder.

P. S. This Sparviero could be painted even without engines, just  covers of engines provisionally 'glued' for example by tinny bit of Loctite super attak , at least I will do that (before finding proper engines, unless...).

So happy finishing Victory-is-in-the-Kitchen 😃

Edited by aircro
P. S.
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1 hour ago, aircro said:

I have some resin Bristol Mercury engines waiting

These should do the job just fine, Mercury was slightly shorter stroke Pegasus, in a close cowl like the SM79, hard to tell the difference.

Steve.

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What a shame about the fit, but that stretched sprue trick is effective!  I think the engines look great.

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3 hours ago, opus999 said:

What a shame about the fit, but that stretched sprue trick is effective!  I think the engines look great.

Ah fit, for proper modeller (aka Victory-is-in-the-Kitchen, btw Your interior look better than mine, I used streched sprue for ribbs of fuselage) those gaps are nothing.

I just hope it will be motled - IF AINT MOTLED AINT ITALIAN.

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HNY Everyone! Hope you're all well.

Aircro, it's true those engines don't look like AR's, but as accuracy isn't the strong suite on this kit (just look at my cobbled interior) I'll leave them as is. Useful to know though, thank you. They're also glued in now so... ;)

 

Well, success with the stretched sprue as expected, always does the trick with enough fettling and copious amounts of TamiyaET:

9-B7-A74-C0-C7-C1-476-E-8-B1-E-A2-E3-FAC

07471-E74-977-D-46-C2-BF2-E-EBCC2-C097-A

I've also added a panel line to over the sprue to match the rest of the wing root.

 

I've also got the horizontal stabilisers on which were fine, fitted nicely and didn't give me any 'drama', they're also re-scribed:

F9-A5-EA39-BEBF-41-AA-8-F79-CCB53-C827-A

 

Here she is:

05-D45-C37-7173-4-B80-93-FE-F72024-B3-BC

 

However... when fitting the stabilisers and ensuring they were aligned, I noticed that the starboard wing has a bend... a quite noticeable one passed the engine nacelle:

E44-C8522-4-D68-4-C89-99-BB-F88-FF29-C47

My crude mark-up should highlight it. I've looked at it from all angles and I'm convinced it's just warped. What to do? I don't think I'll worry too much, it's the nostalgia on this one don't forget but I am tempted to get a heat gun out and apply just aft of the nacelle... might not be worth it though as I can see what could happen! Can you imagine it?!! When it's on its 'feet' and viewed at an angle and unless you're looking for it and head on, it won't be obvious. Thoughts?

Thanks for looking. JB.

 

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Doesn’t look that bad to me. You could try a bit of remedial bending. A more drastic approach would be to cut and shut in a few places . Or just avoid head on poses.

Edited by Marklo
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A hot water? Youst where bending starts (about engine nacelle) upper and lower side of the wing put under tap of hot water and... Plastic is thick, there is engine nacelle so I don't think that it will cooperate immediately. Good luck.

And not too much pressure.

 

P. S. Also easier way to straigh the wing is to cut lower part next to engine gondola(outer side) and put some stirene in it (You have expirience in that 😀).

P. P. S. One thing is to straigh one half, but already glued halves so...

cut down, hot water up , straigh/and pull it  bit more up , part of stiren glued one side of open trench (that is what I will do on my model), You will see how wide will be gap, don't forget, stiren in gap will be squeezed , depends on glue  (I use Revell, in that case - more pressure/stiren melting/gap narower).

Edited by aircro
P. S.
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2 hours ago, aircro said:

A hot water? Youst where bending starts (about engine nacelle) upper and lower side of the wing put under tap of hot water and... Plastic is thick, there is engine nacelle so I don't think that it will cooperate immediately.

Give it a go, mate. I just had a similar discovery with my LeO 453, although it was about the undercarriage legs rather than the wings. It took a fair bit of fiddling but it was worth it in the end. Good luck!

 

Martin

 

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Hmm... unfortunate about that alignment.  I wish I had an idea of how to fix.  Maybe it's worth dry fitting the landing gears on to see how noticeable it is after that.  Maybe the gears will be mismatched in just the right way to make it all level again. :P 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hello everyone, hope you’re keeping well.

 

It’s been a while since I’ve updated the thread as I have had several scribing failures on the leading edge of the wings between the fuselage and nacelles, owing to a bit of “loss of mojo” and nothing really to report as I repaired with CA and tried (and tried) again. I’ve done all I can now until I hit it with the undercoat to show the results...

 

I have however managed to have success on the warped wing. I gingerly applied a heat gun used for stripping paint etc and the wing corrected itself on its own! Luck I guess but it took less than 5 minutes!! It’s still not perfect but much less noticeable now, so pleased with that! 
34-F8-A706-9-EFF-4-D2-B-8-F5-E-36-E6-D93

 

Engines and covers are now glued into place and I’ve attached the gondola underneath.

 

I’m now starting to get her ready for priming as you can see here (and all the scribing fun mentioned earlier)!


CAC053-BA-E1-E3-4519-9064-C522669-C23-D9
 

Thanks for looking in.

JB

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