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1/35 Schnellboot Typ S-38 rc conversion


Arjan

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Hi Greg, the illustrations in the kit instructions depict the correct positions, that is  the door on the starboard side has the hinges at the rear and the door on the port side has the hinges at the front. The model used by Italeri for photo purposes, however, has the port door in the wrong position. The man who built this model made more mistakes such as the hand wheels which are not positioned correctly. I fitted the doors in the correct position and I didn't have any problems getting the doors in. That the doors aren't mirrored is probably because the port door would else obstruct access to the chart room. 

 

I must say I'm glad my S-38 build is done, I always get fed up with projects if they take too long (longer than 4 months or so). I'm going to continue with my 1/15 Colin Archer rescue Cutter project which I started last year. 

 

Regards,

 

Arjan

 

 

Edited by Arjan
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To tell the truth, I bought the kit second hand and quite a bit of work had already been done. Still, there is plenty of work left. These used Colin Archer kits are often offered for sale on ebay because most people who buy them never have the patience and/or skills to complete them. Here's one that has been finished :

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XExDZagPr5g&t=157s

 

Regards,

 

Arjan

 

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Thanks Kev ! I'm always on a mission to convert people to rc boating and I hope I have shown that rc boating and plastic modelling can go hand in hand. It's nice to display a finished model on a shelf but taking it out on the water as well greatly enhances the pleasure 🙂.

 

Regards,

 

Arjan

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  • 3 weeks later...

That looks Great Arjan.  My S-38 and Vosper are slowly progressing.  I'm considering RCing the Vosper as the running gear I got for the S-boot is a lot lighter than the earlier ones that I got for the S-boat. They are shorter too. 

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Thanks Greg. My Vosper has two light brushless motors and I went to extremes to get its weight down (by drilling holes, scraping away/cutting off bits of plastic ). Nevertheless,  my model is still a bit too heavy and sitting too deep in the water. As I see it the only feasible way to convert  the Italeri Vosper kit into a good rc model is to use only one fairly light brushless motor and one driven 2mm prop shaft :

 

https://www.modelboats.co.uk/news/article/plastic-magic-vosper-mtb-77/16930

 

Regards,

 

Arjan

 

 

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Arjan which is your favorite S-boot S-38 or S-100?

I very nearly bought a S-100 kit last night, but when postage was added it was going to cost more than $600 so I steeled myself and let it go. It wasn't easy.

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That's a tough question Greg 🙂. I think I prefer my S-100 model because I invested much more time into it than in my S-38 one. In terms of rc performance both are identical.  The quality of the S-38 kit is much better, level of detail (e.g. lots of rivets missing on the wheelhouse and bridge of the S-100 model) and moulding quality.  The S-38 kit also offers a greater variety of choice (lots of different boats and paint schemes to choose from). There were relatively few boats in the late S-100 batch modelled by Italeri. Also no alternative camo patterns/paint schemes and there are very few good photos (the Germans had other things on their mind when these late S-Boote were in operational use).

 

Regards,

 

Arjan

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Well Arjan I did very well with my  business projects today, so decided to get the S-100.  Like you this will give me a good pair to join a scale boat club with. Also I finally get to use the resin skill cap bridge which adds all the detail you mentioned. 

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2 hours ago, Greg Law said:

Well Arjan I did very well with my  business projects today, so decided to get the S-100. 

Hi Greg, for some reason this doesn't surprise me 🙂. Your recent purchases should keep you busy for quite some time ! Is there a model boat club in the area you live ? Any ponds nearby (pictures please ) ?

 

This is the moat we usually operate our boats on. This moat surrounds the ramparts of the ancient fortress town of Hulst (my home town) :

 

pMHD1HV.jpg

 

I'm the person with the electronic cigarette in the foreground :

 

DwmVhUA.jpg

 

Regards,

 

Arjan

 

 

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Arjan

Yes there are several scale boat clubs in Auckland.  I don't belong to any at the moment.  I used to belong to one in the 80's. I was building a Flower class corvette at the time. I ended up finishing it in Australia. As a result I want to have one finished boat before I join a club. 

I will have to checkout your town on Google maps. By the way the guy on the left of the photo could be me. My beard is a bit smaller but the same colour. I'm 67 now. This is part of the reason I decided to get S-100. Time is getting short, so it is best to do things now before the clock runs out. By the way I used to have the S-100 kit. I sold it about two years ago because I didn't think I could store it once built.

Tonight I finally glued down the wheelhouse roof. I'm not going to paint the rear gun white as I have seen photos of it unpainted.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Arjan if you are still looking in. I'm just about completed the Corsair now, so I getting all reved up to get back on the S-boot. I have a question.  How did you deal with the front torpedo rack and the handrail where the deck breaks? I  can't see how you didn't.

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Hi Greg. I fitted the foremost torp cradle and stanchion to the deck without using glue. The plastic Italeri stanchions I have used are vulnerable so I have to be very careful when removing the whole deck. Fortunately, I only have to remove the entire deck when something is wrong with the rudders, the steering servo or links. For battery changes and greasing the shafts the access provided by the smaller removable deck section suffices.

 

hXhr2Ex.jpg

Z0hknpX.jpg

 

Regards,

 

Arjan

 

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Thanks Arjan.  I have a problem in that I have glued the center deck to the main deck. I might see if I can get it loose.

 

All is good I got it off without damage. Thanks for the help.

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This is a question for Arjan, concerning using Vallejo Premium Clear Flat as a final coat for RC boats. Could you provide a bit of detail on how you spray it? Do you thin it, if so what proportion of thinner/diluent? Do you use the retardant, if so how much? What psi do you spray at, what needle/nozzle size, and how do you minimise the clogging/tip drying? I am interested, because I have finally come to the end of my stash of Floquil Flatcote, and I am looking for a replacement that I can reliably use over enamel or acrylic, that provides a tough surface and that won’t eat the underlying paint. Your results with the Vallejo Premium on operating models look pretty good to me!

 

Thanks

 

Steve

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