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1/35 Schnellboot Typ S-38 rc conversion


Arjan

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Hi Greg,I used the original Italeri A-frames to get the correct shaft angle and the exact spot where they should enter the hull. . Install the Italeri A-frames without glue or using glue that can be removed easily like PVA glue or the Gator glue (which can be removed by soaking in water). You will have to drill out the shaft bushes of the A-frames slightly first so you can insert the 4 mm prop shafts. These 4 mm shafts will then be positioned at the correct angle and you will know where to drill holes into the hull (at the foremost point of the two "slots" in the hull bottom (see red dots in attached image). You will then obviously have to enlarge the holes in the hull for the 6mm outer tubes. Once you have permanently fixed the outer tubes you can remove the Italeri A-frames and substitute them by brass ones.

 

1V47BHd.jpg

 

Regards,

 

Arjan

Edited by Arjan
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A few static photos from yesterday's outing. Unfortunately the quality isn't great.

 

rPTRgiw.jpg

S5Sg5Nx.jpg

aUji6nT.jpg

sDRcP4a.jpg

 

Bonny Lass was obviously a tempting target ......

 

0jm18FQ.jpg

auwGjoS.jpg

 

Bonny Lass is a lovely model, it's in 1/50 scale and was built from printed parts by a fellow club member.

 

Regards,

 

Arjan

Edited by Arjan
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Thanks gentlemen. You are right Greg she is sitting a bit too high. I would also like a slightly higher top speed so I plan to use a 3S (11.1V) lipo instead of the 2S (7.4V) one I've used. The 3S lipo I've got is also a bit heavier and I have also ordered some heavier esc's (20A instead of 12A) to handle the higher current/voltage of the 3S lipo. 

 

https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/4000235650720.html

 

Regards,

 

Arjan

 

 

Edited by Arjan
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Arjan 

I just wanted your thoughts on this idea. Other than real world work projects the thing that is delaying my putting the hull together is decided how to glue it as I don't have access to your glue. I'm thinking it might work if I first glued it with Tamiya extra thin,  then mixed-up a batch of sprue goo. This is desolving sprue in extra thin and filling that recess in the keel with it. This should weld the whole thing together. 

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Hi Greg, the industrial solvent I use has a water-like consistency and it's probably identical to this Mek Weld stuff . Again it's probably just as good as the Tamiya extra thin only much cheaper.

 

https://shop-4-glue.com/mek-weld-plastic-weld-glue-for-abs-hips-or-pvc-ideal-for-model-kit-hobby-craft-diy-industrial-50ml-55-p.asp

 

I only reinforced the bow section of the keel with heat stretched sprue because this part of the keel is no longer accessible once you have glued the fore deck to the hull. For my S-100 model, which started life as a static model before I decided to do an rc conversion, I poured some  epoxy resin into the open keel and allowed it to run to the bow section I could no longer reach :

 

8DW0irE.jpg

 

So to sum up, Tamiya extra thin is fine to glue the hull parts together and for gluing in some bits of plastic sprue, it would just save you some money if you can get hold of the Mek Weld stuff . 

 

Regards,

 

Arjan

 

 

 

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11 minutes ago, Greg Law said:

Thanks Arjan 

I was worried about using epoxy resin because of the heat created by curing. However if it worked for you I will use that. I'm sure I used it in my flower class corvette. 

Ive used epoxy on a similar project, worked well, well the epoxy did, the project didn't lol

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Yesterday I fitted  dodgers made from 0.3mm styrene sheet. The photos are a bit overexposed, I always find it hard to make good pics of white boats in the sun (I don't know anything about manual settings).

 

jcaPZTf.jpg

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1G2bYW3.jpg

11Tks0T.jpg

 

Regards,

 

Arjan

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Many thanks gentlemen ! Steve, the wooden pole is a boat hook identical to the ones on the fore deck. The object near the green dot in this pic is an emergency tiller. I don't think I have ever seen one in period pics :

 

r24AvZf.jpg

 

The toilet (head) matter seems to remain a bit of a mystery for the time being. I discussed it with a Swedish S-Boot buff but he could only tell me that a head can still be seen in drawings of S-7 but not in drawings of later boats. No response so far to my query on the German Historisches Marine Archiv. I think I've found a pic of a toilet ,though,  if I'm not mistaken. Pic shows S-109 whose bow had been blown off by a mine, she was towed from Rotterdam to the Schlichting Yard at Travemünde where she was repaired. I find it incredible that this boat could still be repaired, she looks a total loss.

 

XuNAgNt.jpg

 

I watched the video again of the E-Boat surrender at Felixstowe and indeed it is claimed S-205 didn't have a head.

 

Regards,

 

Arjan

 

 

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@Arjan about your lighting problem, i think i can help.

Firstly expose the image with a centre exposure setting in the camera looks like a tv with a circle in it, then point the camera, half click the shutter to get the exposure and then continue to hold until you have the correct composition and fully press.

If you wish to take many photos with the same lighting conditions, use Auto Exposure Lock (AEL) and shoot as many as you want.

Another option is to play with the Exposure Value (EV) to -, say try -.33 EV first and then continue to reduce the EV as necessary

Good luck and looking great!

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Thanks a lot for the photo tips, I will definitely give this a try !

 

There are still some detail jobs left such as adding a Kriegsmarine flag and painting crew figures. I have ordered these resin heads to improve the Italeri crew figures :

 

https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32853647994.html

 

https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32851848961.html

 

Nevertheless,  time to think about another project. I might try to do an rc conversion of the Italeri M.A.S. kit similar to this one :

 

http://www.modelboats.co.uk/news/article/plastic-magic-mas-568-4a-serie/13847

 

 

Regards,

 

Arjan

 

 

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16 hours ago, Arjan said:

he wooden pole is a boat hook identical to the ones on the fore deck. The object near the green dot in this pic is an emergency tiller.

Interesting couple of details there, the Fairmile B also has an emergency tiller seen here the black curved rod circled in white.  They go hand in hand with a circular access plate that allows them to engage the rudder shaft(s) directly 

 

tiller

 

I love these little details the best, see also above a couple of buckets, buckets are fun to make, these ones are made from 0.10" copper

 

Re the lack of a toilet, I agree, examining Fock I can clearly see one on one of the early boats, but not later.  It seems an odd omission if true, but I guess as short duration raiders, they were paired to the bone...

 

Great job on the conversion, you are also building a fleet

 

Cheers

 

Steve

 

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Arjan.  I noticed you closed all the hatches the instructions showed open. I suspect that is to prevent water access. What I'm thinking of doing is boxing then in below the deck level so they look like open hatches from the outside. Then open slots under the big vents so they work like the real thing. What do you think.

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Hi Greg, I closed all the hatches apart from one because the Italeri hatches don't have the three skylights that should be there. In closed position, with the blackout panels fitted,  the missing skylights aren't noticeable. In hindsight I think I should have invested in the Eduard pe hatch set that does have the correct skylights in the hatches. In terms of rc practicality closed hatches are preferable because open ones are more vulnerable (open hatches tend to snap off when handling the boat).

 

Regards,

 

Arjan

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I've added the pe straps to the torpedo cradles and a Kriegsflagge . The ensign is from Bronco and made from some kind of fabric which proved difficult to cut. I had to touch it up with some paint but I don't like the look of it. That's why I have ordered two BECC ones (unfortunately, only available in the UK 🙂:

 

https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/Becc-Model-Accessories-German-Naval-Ensign-1933-45-38mm-B-D51C.html#SID=646

 

x12G9Uu.jpg

hXhr2Ex.jpg

ZepXrHs.jpg

 

Regards,

 

Arjan

 

 

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