Arjan Posted February 21, 2021 Author Share Posted February 21, 2021 (edited) Hi Greg,I used the original Italeri A-frames to get the correct shaft angle and the exact spot where they should enter the hull. . Install the Italeri A-frames without glue or using glue that can be removed easily like PVA glue or the Gator glue (which can be removed by soaking in water). You will have to drill out the shaft bushes of the A-frames slightly first so you can insert the 4 mm prop shafts. These 4 mm shafts will then be positioned at the correct angle and you will know where to drill holes into the hull (at the foremost point of the two "slots" in the hull bottom (see red dots in attached image). You will then obviously have to enlarge the holes in the hull for the 6mm outer tubes. Once you have permanently fixed the outer tubes you can remove the Italeri A-frames and substitute them by brass ones. Regards, Arjan Edited February 21, 2021 by Arjan 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted February 22, 2021 Author Share Posted February 22, 2021 (edited) A few static photos from yesterday's outing. Unfortunately the quality isn't great. Bonny Lass was obviously a tempting target ...... Bonny Lass is a lovely model, it's in 1/50 scale and was built from printed parts by a fellow club member. Regards, Arjan Edited May 13, 2021 by Arjan 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longshanks Posted February 22, 2021 Share Posted February 22, 2021 Looks even better in her natural element Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Law Posted February 23, 2021 Share Posted February 23, 2021 Looks good Arjan. Is it sitting a fraction high? If so that’s a good thing. You can add a little ballast which would make it more stable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted February 23, 2021 Author Share Posted February 23, 2021 (edited) Thanks gentlemen. You are right Greg she is sitting a bit too high. I would also like a slightly higher top speed so I plan to use a 3S (11.1V) lipo instead of the 2S (7.4V) one I've used. The 3S lipo I've got is also a bit heavier and I have also ordered some heavier esc's (20A instead of 12A) to handle the higher current/voltage of the 3S lipo. https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/4000235650720.html Regards, Arjan Edited February 23, 2021 by Arjan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Law Posted February 24, 2021 Share Posted February 24, 2021 Arjan I just wanted your thoughts on this idea. Other than real world work projects the thing that is delaying my putting the hull together is decided how to glue it as I don't have access to your glue. I'm thinking it might work if I first glued it with Tamiya extra thin, then mixed-up a batch of sprue goo. This is desolving sprue in extra thin and filling that recess in the keel with it. This should weld the whole thing together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted February 24, 2021 Author Share Posted February 24, 2021 Hi Greg, the industrial solvent I use has a water-like consistency and it's probably identical to this Mek Weld stuff . Again it's probably just as good as the Tamiya extra thin only much cheaper. https://shop-4-glue.com/mek-weld-plastic-weld-glue-for-abs-hips-or-pvc-ideal-for-model-kit-hobby-craft-diy-industrial-50ml-55-p.asp I only reinforced the bow section of the keel with heat stretched sprue because this part of the keel is no longer accessible once you have glued the fore deck to the hull. For my S-100 model, which started life as a static model before I decided to do an rc conversion, I poured some epoxy resin into the open keel and allowed it to run to the bow section I could no longer reach : So to sum up, Tamiya extra thin is fine to glue the hull parts together and for gluing in some bits of plastic sprue, it would just save you some money if you can get hold of the Mek Weld stuff . Regards, Arjan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Law Posted February 24, 2021 Share Posted February 24, 2021 Thanks Arjan I was worried about using epoxy resin because of the heat created by curing. However if it worked for you I will use that. I'm sure I used it in my flower class corvette. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S-boat 55 Posted February 24, 2021 Share Posted February 24, 2021 11 minutes ago, Greg Law said: Thanks Arjan I was worried about using epoxy resin because of the heat created by curing. However if it worked for you I will use that. I'm sure I used it in my flower class corvette. Ive used epoxy on a similar project, worked well, well the epoxy did, the project didn't lol, 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted February 26, 2021 Author Share Posted February 26, 2021 Yesterday I fitted dodgers made from 0.3mm styrene sheet. The photos are a bit overexposed, I always find it hard to make good pics of white boats in the sun (I don't know anything about manual settings). Regards, Arjan 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longshanks Posted February 26, 2021 Share Posted February 26, 2021 Stunning!! Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve D Posted February 26, 2021 Share Posted February 26, 2021 Very tidy finish Arjan.. One small question, what is the timber pole on the port side by the gun platform? Cheers Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnWS Posted February 26, 2021 Share Posted February 26, 2021 She's a beauty Arjan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted February 26, 2021 Author Share Posted February 26, 2021 Many thanks gentlemen ! Steve, the wooden pole is a boat hook identical to the ones on the fore deck. The object near the green dot in this pic is an emergency tiller. I don't think I have ever seen one in period pics : The toilet (head) matter seems to remain a bit of a mystery for the time being. I discussed it with a Swedish S-Boot buff but he could only tell me that a head can still be seen in drawings of S-7 but not in drawings of later boats. No response so far to my query on the German Historisches Marine Archiv. I think I've found a pic of a toilet ,though, if I'm not mistaken. Pic shows S-109 whose bow had been blown off by a mine, she was towed from Rotterdam to the Schlichting Yard at Travemünde where she was repaired. I find it incredible that this boat could still be repaired, she looks a total loss. I watched the video again of the E-Boat surrender at Felixstowe and indeed it is claimed S-205 didn't have a head. Regards, Arjan 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Law Posted February 26, 2021 Share Posted February 26, 2021 Looks excellent Arjan. Brand spanking new our of the workshop. I'm not a good enough modeller to get such a fine finish. Weathering comes to my rescue. 😉 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuppa_joe Posted February 27, 2021 Share Posted February 27, 2021 @Arjan about your lighting problem, i think i can help. Firstly expose the image with a centre exposure setting in the camera looks like a tv with a circle in it, then point the camera, half click the shutter to get the exposure and then continue to hold until you have the correct composition and fully press. If you wish to take many photos with the same lighting conditions, use Auto Exposure Lock (AEL) and shoot as many as you want. Another option is to play with the Exposure Value (EV) to -, say try -.33 EV first and then continue to reduce the EV as necessary Good luck and looking great! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted February 27, 2021 Author Share Posted February 27, 2021 Thanks a lot for the photo tips, I will definitely give this a try ! There are still some detail jobs left such as adding a Kriegsmarine flag and painting crew figures. I have ordered these resin heads to improve the Italeri crew figures : https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32853647994.html https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32851848961.html Nevertheless, time to think about another project. I might try to do an rc conversion of the Italeri M.A.S. kit similar to this one : http://www.modelboats.co.uk/news/article/plastic-magic-mas-568-4a-serie/13847 Regards, Arjan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Law Posted February 27, 2021 Share Posted February 27, 2021 If get through this project I think I will have a go at a Vosper MTB. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve D Posted February 27, 2021 Share Posted February 27, 2021 16 hours ago, Arjan said: he wooden pole is a boat hook identical to the ones on the fore deck. The object near the green dot in this pic is an emergency tiller. Interesting couple of details there, the Fairmile B also has an emergency tiller seen here the black curved rod circled in white. They go hand in hand with a circular access plate that allows them to engage the rudder shaft(s) directly I love these little details the best, see also above a couple of buckets, buckets are fun to make, these ones are made from 0.10" copper Re the lack of a toilet, I agree, examining Fock I can clearly see one on one of the early boats, but not later. It seems an odd omission if true, but I guess as short duration raiders, they were paired to the bone... Great job on the conversion, you are also building a fleet Cheers Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Law Posted February 27, 2021 Share Posted February 27, 2021 Now Steve you are making me jealous. Is the Fairmile I/48? That's an incredibly good build. Do you have a link for more photos? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted February 27, 2021 Author Share Posted February 27, 2021 Lovely detail on the Fairmile model Steve! Similar tillers on Vosper MTB's, for some reason these are being used here : Regards, Arjan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve D Posted February 27, 2021 Share Posted February 27, 2021 2 minutes ago, Greg Law said: Do you have a link for more photos? Thanks Greg, the build thread is here Fairmile B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Law Posted February 28, 2021 Share Posted February 28, 2021 Arjan. I noticed you closed all the hatches the instructions showed open. I suspect that is to prevent water access. What I'm thinking of doing is boxing then in below the deck level so they look like open hatches from the outside. Then open slots under the big vents so they work like the real thing. What do you think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted February 28, 2021 Author Share Posted February 28, 2021 Hi Greg, I closed all the hatches apart from one because the Italeri hatches don't have the three skylights that should be there. In closed position, with the blackout panels fitted, the missing skylights aren't noticeable. In hindsight I think I should have invested in the Eduard pe hatch set that does have the correct skylights in the hatches. In terms of rc practicality closed hatches are preferable because open ones are more vulnerable (open hatches tend to snap off when handling the boat). Regards, Arjan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted March 1, 2021 Author Share Posted March 1, 2021 (edited) I've added the pe straps to the torpedo cradles and a Kriegsflagge . The ensign is from Bronco and made from some kind of fabric which proved difficult to cut. I had to touch it up with some paint but I don't like the look of it. That's why I have ordered two BECC ones (unfortunately, only available in the UK 🙂) : https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/Becc-Model-Accessories-German-Naval-Ensign-1933-45-38mm-B-D51C.html#SID=646 Regards, Arjan Edited March 1, 2021 by Arjan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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