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The Tin Mossie - Vickers 432


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An acrylic base putty like PPP or Vallejo, perhaps slightly thinned to spread better? Not being a resin builder, I've not come across this but if the paint is the laquer based one, maybe a good thing to stay away from on resin unless there is a neutral primer your can lay down?

Steve.

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Drill into hole / bubble with a drill matched to some plastic rod you have

Superglue the end of the rod into the hole

Snip off slightly proud of surface

Repeat for all the other holes / bubbles

Sand your porcupine smooth.

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Hi Steve and Dave.

Thank you for your advice. The paint I am using is thinned Gunze acrylic so was hoping it didn't affect surface. Actually I think the grey just showed up holes that weren't apparent with the uncoated plastic. I have had the perforation problem before when spraying Alclad on an FM resin Albatross and a Bristol Brabazon so was aware of incompatabilities. Not sure what to use later this year on my 1/72 Czech Master resin Short S23 !??

Dave, the holes are, but one, very small pin pricks but will use your suggested technique of plugging with some stretched spru.

Late last night I used some Mr Surfacer !!

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HMMM  WTF !

After filling holes with Mr Surfacer, rubbing down and repainting

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I'm obviously doing something wrong - But what ?

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56 minutes ago, Adrian Hills said:

After filling holes with Mr Surfacer, rubbing down and repainting

Its notoriously difficult to fill those tiny bubble holes using ordinary fillers, it doesn't want to go down into the holes and just skins over them so that they re-appear when sanding, hence the porcupine remedy. 

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The resin on top of the starboard engine nacelle has gone soft. I have cleaned it up as best as I can. I even used Dave's technique on one hole and it worked well. However, life is too short and I have plenty of other more interesting and less frustrating builds to get on with. I will mask it up, spray green and yellow and finish the model. It'll be one of those I will hide in the model cabinet and say "Over there at the back is a Vickers 432, and moving swiftly on..... 🙂

 

 

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Actually I think it is down to Flouridation of the water, an international communist plot to sap and impurify our precious bodily fluids.....

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That's got to be the best explanation I've ever heard for model problems Adrian :lol: 

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One last throw of the dice. Filled in the top of the nacelles with Tamiya putty and then soft sanded with course emery with a little tickling up with fine.

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The results are marginally better and I will leave it at that. Hope to get the green on later today

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This might sound odd but what about polyfiller mixed up with PVA instead of water ( I believe it’s referred to as Swedish putty) At the very least it’s not going to react with the resin or the paint. I have on  occasion used ready mix for filler on wooden parts.  

 

Another method I’ve seen but haven’t tried yet is mig gunmetal pigment mixed into ca, again it’s not too reactive and dries into a hard sandable filler. I think you can get a similar result with talcum powder ( I’m violently allergic to it so I haven’t tried this either)

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Thanks for that Marklo. I have been using CA as a filler. It seems to look a bit better so will continue as is. Cheers A

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Did some masking and hosed it down with a bit of Gunze Dark Green. I like to try and get the mask off as fast as possible so the paint can flow a bit and hopefully not have quite such a sharp edge for demarcation. This is a risky business as it is easy to put a thumb print in the wet paint - as I have done in the time honoured way. 

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This last photo is an attempt to illustrate that the upper surface colours are below the wings on the engine nacelles. Quite unusual

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Bit late to the party but I admire your attitude and determination to keep going.

 

For the pin holes you need filler primer from a motor factors, this is what it is designed for. Mask off the good area apply a couple of thin wet coats and let it go hard. Go over the finish with 600 grit or similar used DRY until the surface is matted evenly. Any holes showing apply another coat and go round again. When happy a final mist of filler then remove the masking, using wet paper blend in the edges and blow over with primer to check.

 

As for the other irritations may I suggest giving it a maintenance airframe number showing it as a training aid. They usually look a bit tatty pretty quickly.   

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Really sorry about all the grief with the pin holes.

I've used PPP then moved it around with a damp cotton bud. Damp cotton bud removes the surplus and repeat until you have filled them all. With practice no sand paper required  !

 

Really like the look of this one, "A mosquito with attitude!"

 

Cheers Pat 

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Hi Pat, what is PPP ? please.  In time with enough thickness of paint the smaller pinholes are gone/disguised. For bigger holes Dave Swindell's technique of drilling out and fitting small rod (I used stretched spru) works well. I'm using this build to get a handle on resin kits. Later in the year I have a build of a Blackburn B20 and a Czech Master resin Short S23 and really want to a good job on that so am noting various useful comments. THANKS

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Very nice Adrian, I'm really liking the look of that. PPP Perfect Plastic Putty from Deluxe Products. Often talked about & used on here. :)

Steve.

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On 2/16/2021 at 1:30 PM, Adrian Hills said:

This is a risky business as it is easy to put a thumb print in the wet paint

Isn’t that just like an artist signing their work.

 

PPP is good and behaves like a regular filler but be warned it can shrink, sometimes only noticeable after paint . I also use liquid green stuff ( really good water based and can be brushed in) and Vallejo filler ( water based but I find it doesn’t alway stick that well) 

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I have had Green stuff in the past but found it shrank too much. One technique a late friend taught me is mixing a thin styrene glue with Tamiya putty. Maybe I should have used that as you can put it on with a paintbrush

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  • 2 weeks later...

Nearly there. The Xtracrylic yellow has crazed on me. Sprayed according to instructions only water added as thinner. Decals with kit were very bright incorrect colours so used a variety of aftermarket ones.

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Note the anachronistic fuselage roundel. The kit came with a standard C type with yellow surround as painted on the real aircraft in later life. However, there was a flying photoshoot early on in the aircraft's career and the red in the middle was too small and towards the proportion of an A type. To emulate this difference I put a standard A on top of a smaller size A with yellow surround to get a narrower yellow. Why not !

vickers_432

 

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Just finishing off so trimmed canopy to near size before offering it up. And lo and behold it fell in the hole because it is too small  F##!!+### !!!!

 

Rather than lob the bloody thing out of the window I am now writing to the Pope for beatification - as I must have the patience of a Saint !!

 

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A quick and dirty to get out of trouble,if you can make the kit canopy solid enough (fill with blu tak) you could plunge mould a couple of layers over the top of it and then use that lump to plunge mould a larger replacement.

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Hi Alex,

I'm now dremelling down a cured piece of Milliput to the approximate shape to do exactly as you suggest !  Cheers mate 🙂

 

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Had a go at the quick and dirty solution by refining a bit of cured Milliput. I always have a bit left over so form the scrap into a shape 'that might be useful one day'. 

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Here you see the bench vice holding the bit I have shaped for pull moulding.

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This is an example of what it looks like. I do multiple pulls and use the best one.

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This was a very quickly produced first pull to see if I was going in the right direction. I then refined the plug twice more to get a lower profile but with slightly wider base. Cutting canopies at each step. The plastic was taken out of the recycling bin and the unused bits are returned there.

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In the end I wasn't happy with anything that I produced and started getting frustrated. In a sh*t or bust move I decided to use the original undersize canopy and tack it into place with superglue. NEVER do this as it is easy to fog a canopy and destroy it. I glued one edge and held it in place - when glue was stiff I then used superglue to bridge the gap on the other side. after a few more tacks. Going away and breathing steadily I returned to it and saw it hadn't fogged - Hallelujah !! the rest was filled in with Humbrol clear. Time to leave it for tonight. It needs to be 'on the table', ie photographed for my IPMS Mid Sussex virtual club night tomorrow. 

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