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Ahoy!

 

This will be my second tank kit built as part of a GB. I will almost certainly be throwing out a few questions about weather at some point! 


Made a small start with this last night.

This is my first non Tamiya tank, looking forward to seeing how the tracks turn out on this compared to the normal Tamiya rubber bands. Like the way Das Werk have designed them to make it easier to glue on the guide horns, sure I'll still manage to knock some of them off at some point. 

I found gluing the rear section of hull to one of the side walls helped with getting the bottom section of the chassis all nice and square. 
 

2020-11-02_10-59-50

 

2020-11-03_09-42-39



As I'd completely forgotten about this GB I did start a Jagdpanther a month or so ago, which is now at the weathering stage. 
Hopefully I'll get to grips a bit more with weather techniques when working on the Jagd. Earlier this year I picked up some of the AK rust pencils and the Mig Ammo dry earth track set which I tried out on a Sherman with mixed results. 

I'll also try and remember to not spray all the air vents at the back black on this Panther :doh:
 

2020-11-02_11-00-07



Still haven't settled on which scheme to paint. There's two Dünkelgelb  with winter white wash that I'm leaning towards. Have some of Wilkos finest hairspray that I've used previous on a Tiger (although after spraying the white wash using Tamiya white I stupidly left it for a week before attacking it with a toothbrush which turned out to be hard work, note to future self)

The other camo that tempting is the Dünkelgelb and Olivegrün  splinter(? straight lined) one. 

Aaron

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34 minutes ago, Longbow said:

Nice work on the JP, especially the scratches.

 

Das Werk (Takom) make a great little kit. 

Did you get many spare parts in these kits or is it only enough to make the version stated?

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On 03/11/2020 at 18:25, Longbow said:

Nice work on the JP, especially the scratches.


Thanks, combo of sponge and a 5/0 brush. 

No progress worthy of a picture yet. Just assembling road wheels and working on the rear and engine deck. 

Can anyone explain the difference between XF-60, XF-88 and XF-92? 

Is XF-88 just a slight updated take on the colour used over the older XF-60? 

With the Tamiya DAK colours, when would XF-92 be used? Is that just one for very specific time frame during the Africa campaign? 
I spent a while yesterday looking at various Tamiya kit instructions and didn't spot XF-88 or XF-92 recommended on any of the kits. 


 

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Yeah, as you say 88 is a newer version of dark yellow. It's a tad less yellow and I assume more accurate. I am using it currently and do prefer it. I think it was developed for the new Marder but someone may have better info.

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Evening All
 

2020-11-10_04-41-26

 


Still nothing to exciting to report at this point. 

Going together nicely so far, but it's made me decide I need to invest in a nice pair of nippers for removing some of the fragile parts. 

Just popped in a order for the AK Interactive dry earth track set and some Tamiya XF-88 to try out on this build. 

Tempted to try my hand at adding some weld cut detail to front sections.

Aaron



 

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Good start! These Takom/DW Panthers are very popular.

Your quite right about about good quality nippers, short of spending serious money I'm struggling find some that I like..I've some budget Xurons and just about ok but not as neat as I hoped.

 

Good luck!

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3 hours ago, Jasper dog said:

Good start! These Takom/DW Panthers are very popular.

Your quite right about about good quality nippers, short of spending serious money I'm struggling find some that I like..I've some budget Xurons and just about ok but not as neat as I hoped.

 

Good luck!

I like the Tamiya ones. 

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Having glued all the odds and ends on, spent the evening giving it a coat of black primer.

 

Then spent a sold 20 minutes giving the airbrush a dismantle and thorough clean only to then manage to shear off the needle nozzle while screwing it back on :rant:

 

Mainly cheesed off as the airbrush has never been so clean!

 

Luckily I've a £20 eBay special kicking around somewhere that I'll dig out tomorrow. 

 

Hopefully you lot have had a more successful weekend

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We have paint and now a black Panther
 

IMAG0892



Still got prep one of the tracks and finish off spraying some of the road wheels. 
Needs a bit of pre shading, wont be going mad with it as it's getting a white wash at some point. 


Used the cheapo airbrush last night and was fine for the undercoat. 
Here's the fallen comrade
 

IMAG0891


 

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On 17/11/2020 at 20:47, Retired Bob said:

Did you tweak it tight too hard?


I don't know how I manged it, but yes must have 🙄 

 

 

On 19/11/2020 at 11:27, Longbow said:

OOFF !! That had to hurt !!


Yeah, wasn't too happy as only had it one or two years. 


Been eyeing up airbrushes over the weekend and thinking of going for the Harder & Steenbeck evolution 2 in 1 over the Ultra. 
If anyone has any words of wisdom with H&S shout out. 
My main focus was getting something with a more robust looking nozzle after my cack-handed mishap. 

Got a bit more paint down.
 

IMAG0893



With a bit of luck I'll get a chance to get a coat of Klear sprayed this evening after work. 

 

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I've the H&S evolution two in one, haven't used it much as of yet even though I've had it 12mths, still plodding along with the old Iwata. However it is nicely made, comes apart very easily for ease of cleaning, sometimes surprisingly so when I unscrewed the wrong section mid job to clear a blockage and ended with a selection of parts in my hand. Thankfully all goes together quite easily and intuitively.

With the 0.2 needle in it sprays a nice tight line which is what I wanted it for, I just need more practice with it.

 

Tbh I doubt many airbrushes will stand heavy handling when it comes to the smaller more delicate parts.

 

Atb

Darryl 

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22 hours ago, AaronKSJ said:

If anyone has any words of wisdom with H&S shout out. 

Earlier in the lockdown , the first one, I bought a H&S Revolution CS+.  Like Darryl I bought it for close in stuff using the 0.2 needle, it's great for that kind of thing, freehand camouflage spraying, it's only got a small paint cup compared to the Iwata Revolution and I haven't tried the 0.3 needle yet but it comes apart easy for cleaning and without using a spanner so no over tweaking.  I got mine from air-craft.net at Fort William, Scotland.  Great service, I ordered it on a Friday morning and it was delivered next day at no cost, they are good for custom air lines and paint as well.

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22 hours ago, Retired Bob said:

I got mine from air-craft.net at Fort William, Scotland.


Ta, I've dropped a subtle hint to the other half, in the form of a direct link to the page on air-craft.net  :)

Nowt exciting to show still at the moment. Klear coat is on and given a filter using burnt sienna oil to add a little depth. 

Decided to do the markings for 701 as I spotted mention of a reference photo showing that it was without Zimmerit, perfect! 

Tracked down the reference photo easily enough - a quick Google of Panther 701 does the job. 

Looking at the photo, it looks as though the white wash has been completely rubbed off from the front panels and barrel. 

There are a variety of different quality copies of the photo knocking about but this one seems to show the most detail,

https://www.track-link.com/forums/site_blogs/37595

I wont be trying to replicate the damage, but will be going for a similar look with the white wash. 


 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Morning All

I've still been badgering away at this. 

Tools painted and decals applied. 
 

IMAG0894

 


Next a bit of chipping, a paler base colour was used that mixed up a red ish brown to try and look like the red primer. 
 

IMAG0898

 

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Next came the whitewash :(
Which went as expected.... badly! 

But none the less a learning experience, and think I've managed to recover some of the errors.

Quick run through of what happened. 
Sealed the above with 2 coats of Klear and left to dry for a few days. 
Used some hairspray, which I sprayed straight from the can - first mistake.
Left the hairspray to dry for 20 minutes or so
Then sprayed Tamiya flat white - which I think I'd thinned to much. 
Again, another 15 - 20 minutes for the white to dry. 
When it came time to attack the white coat with a paint brush it was pulling up fairly large chunks of paint in places - due to the hairspray layer being to thick I believe. 
And then in some places, refusing to chip. Tried using a soft toothbrush and a lot water, as I thought that would help to soak through the paint layer... 

What happened was that somehow the water seemed to have soaked through the Klear and down to the primer, as whole flakes lifted off. Even from a few spots where I hadn't attacked with the brush. 

So was left with a few spots of bare plastic and some thick textured flakes in some area. 

Second time round, decanted the hairspray and shot two thin coats then another layer of of only slightly thinned tamiya White. 
Flaked much better, using just a paint brush and a small amount of water. 
Tried covering the bare plastic, although it's still visible through the white layers, I'm willing to live with it! 

After the first whitewash layer
 

IMAG0902

 

IMAG0903



Then this is after the second whitewash coat. 
pin washed using a grey oil, and also some streaking and mottling with some white oil paint. 
 

IMAG0906

 

IMAG0907



Thanks for looking

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Have to agree with both the above, for a well used and washed out white white wash looks just the part. 

Get a bit of mud and dirt on it and it could be spring 44.

 

Nice job

Darryl 

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