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Repairing on the Road (35295) 1:35


Mike

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Repairing on the Road (35295)

Mercedes Typ 170V Cabriolet with Figures

1:35 MiniArt via Creative Models Ltd

 

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The Mercedes 170 was based upon their W15 chassis, which was their first with all-round independent suspension, and was available as a bare chassis for coachbuilders, as a saloon, cabriolet or as a light van, debuting in the early 30s with sales affected by the worldwide depression that started in Wall Street.  Sales picked up after the recession eased, and later versions had internal boot/trunk-space and sleeker lines, moving with the times.

 

The cabriolet option was sporty and offered the well-to-do buyer luxury and wind-in-hair fun on dry days, and a slightly less windy experience with the fabric roof deployed.  It shares many of the panels of the saloon version, although with no pillars behind the windscreen for a sleek look.  It was often used as a staff car in the German military throughout WWII, and like all cars it broke down from time-to-time.

 

The Kit

This is a reboxing of a partial re-tool of the original 2012 saloon (35095), with new sprues and parts added to create the necessary changes, plus a set of four figures, two of whom are doing their best to get their officer’s car up and running again.  The original kit is highly detailed, and this one is no different, showing just how far MiniArt have come in their design and moulding technology.  There is superb detail throughout, with slender racks, realistic-looking fabric door pockets as well as a full engine and interior to the cab.  This boxing has sixteen sprues in grey styrene plus a bodyshell part in a protective box, clear parts, a small fret of Photo-Etch (PE), and decal sheet.  The instruction booklet completes the package and the cover is printed in colour and covered in profiles to assist with painting.

 

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Construction begins with the 1700cc engine and transmission, which is made up from a substantial number of parts that just need a little wiring to do it full justice, and in fact the brake hoses are shown in diagrams to ensure that you obtain the correct bends, but you’ll need to find your own 0.2mm wire to begin with.  The X-shaped chassis is prepped with a few mounts and a PE brackets, then the rear axle differential and driveshafts are fitted on a pair of very realistic styrene springs that have hollow centres and individual coils thanks to some clever sliding moulds.  Drum brakes, straps and brackets finish off the rear axle assembly, then the completed engine and drive-shaft are installed in the front to be joined by a pair of full-width leaf-springs from above and below with a stub-axle and drum brake at each end.  The exhaust is made up with an impressively neatly designed four-part muffler, a pair of PE mounts, straight exit pipe and a curved length leading forward to the engine.  With the addition of the bumper-irons at the front, the lower body can be fixed to the chassis after drilling a single hole in one of the front wings.

 

The front firewall is next to be made up, and the pedal box is installed one side, with a set of tools and another neatly designed cylinder, this time the fuel tank, which is curiously situated in the rear of the engine bay.  This fits over the transmission tunnel that is moulded into the floor, with more driver controls such as the gear lever, hand brake and steering column added at this time.  The dashboard is put together with decals within the instrument housings, then covered over with clear faces for realism and put to one side while the twin font seats with PE fittings and the simpler rear bench seats are installed onto their supports in the cab area.  The exquisite little rear bodyshell is retrieved from its protective box, and it is immediately evident that it would never survive shipping without this, so it’s a godsend.  The rear sides of the cab are fitted with interior and windows on each side, indicators on the A-pillar, the dashboard, rear lights and bumpers/fenders, while the wheels are made up.

 

Each wheel is made up from a layer-cake of three middle parts to create the tread around the circumference, and two outer faces that depict the sidewalls of the tyres, with marker’s mark and data panel moulded into the sides.  The hubs are inserted into the centres of the tyres, with a cap finishing off the assemblies.  They are built up in handed pairs, and the spare has a different hub to differentiate it, and it fits on a boss at the centre of a recess on the boot/trunk later on.  The main wheels are added to the corners, and the radiator with a PE grille and three-pointed star added to a surround is assembled, then the radiator core and rear slam-panel with filler cap are added at the rear.  This is put in place at the front of the body at an angle, with two cross-braces reducing body flex along with a central bracket that forms the hinge-point for the folding hood.  Small PE fittings are fixed first on the louvered side panels, then added to the top parts in either the open or closed position.  The new bodyshell is lowered into place, the steering wheel and PE horn ring are installed, and the windscreen is assembled from frame, PE wipers, clear glazing and other small parts inside the frame, then slid down between the two arms moulded into the bodyshell.

 

The suicide doors are made up from outer skin, door card and clear window, with an optional window stub if you are posing them wound down.  Handles and winders finish them off, and you can install them closed or any angle to allow egress.  If you are leaving the hood down, the folded hood is provided as a single part that has the mechanism added to each side.  In the up position the complete hood is one piece, with the mechanism applied to the sides and an ovalized window filling up the hole in the rear.  The main headlights have clear lenses, a wing mirror is attached to the left wing, and an optional luggage rack is provided for the rear, made up from two layers of boxes, a delicate frame and PE straps to give it extra realism.

 

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The final parts to be used are the four figures.  The officer is of course watching his men work with impatience, while his driver leans idly on the side of the car.  The lower ranks are working on the car, leaning into the bonnet twiddling things, hopefully with some idea of what they’re doing.  Sculpting is up to MiniArt's usual high standard, with realistic poses, sensible parts breakdown and location of mould seams along natural folds.

 

Markings

The decals extend to number-plates, military emblems and a white circular area for the bonnet of one of the decal options.  You can build one of the six options below:

 

  • III./JG52. Luftwaffe, Eastern Front, Ukraine, Summer 1943
  • 272nd Infanterie Division, Wehrmacht, Normandy, France, Summer 1944
  • Wehrmacht, Eastern Front, 1944
  • German Police, 1942
  • Wehrmacht, Eastern Front, Winter 1942-43
  • Luftwaffe, Italy, 1943

 

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Decals are by DecoGraph, with good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas.

 

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Conclusion

It’s a highly detailed rendition of a rather slick cabriolet from the pre-war/WWII era, with the figures adding a little humanity and an example of mechanical frailty to an already great kit.

 

Highly recommended.

 

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Review sample courtesy of

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The suicide doors are made up from outer skin, door card and clear window, with an optional window stub if you are posing them wound down.  Handles and winders finish them off, and you can install them closed or any angle to allow egress.  If you are leaving the hood down, the folded hood is provided as a single part that has the mechanism added to each side.  In the up position the complete hood is one piece, with the mechanism applied to the sides and an ovalized window filling up the hole in the rear.  The main headlights have clear lenses, a wing mirror is attached to the left wing, and an optional luggage rack is provided for the rear, made up from two layers of boxes, a delicate frame and PE straps to give it extra realism.

 

Mike. where do you put the Suicide Doors, as I have never heard of them before.😁😁

 

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1 hour ago, RAF4EVER said:

Mike. where do you put the Suicide Doors, as I have never heard of them before.😁😁

 

it's a colloquial term for doors that open backwards. i.e. toward the rear of the car.  Not sure why exactly, but I suspect it's because the door would fling open if it was opened during driving, rather than the air pressure holding it sort of closed if it hinged from the front. :hmmm: Someone's bound to correct me if that's wrong :P

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afair its because in an accident the doors would fly open and the driver/passenger would be flung forwards from their seat out through the open door to their death. A front-hinged door helped keep the driver/passenger inside the car. This was in a time when only racing drivers used safety belts and before accident safety locks on doors

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I'm in a Fiat 500 club and the versions from '57 to '64 were all suicide doors. In our club the story is that they are called that because if a door opens when driving (which did happen somewhat frequently), the person next to it would instinctively reach for it. Since seat belts weren't a thing back then, anyone grabbing that door would be pulled out, killing (or at least severely hurting) themselves.

I have a feeling this is just one explanation among a myriad of others. Sounds plausible though. 

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