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SS Fushimi Maru - Japanese Steamer - 1914-1943


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  • 1 year later...

Hello everybody. With the paint drying on the Everard, thought I'd turn my attention back to this build.

The first thing that I wanted to sort out was the waterline and according to an earlier post, the draught is 13-29 feet. A light load draught of 13' puts the water line just above the propeller, sits to high for my liking. A heavy load draught of 29' puts the water line up near the top of the rudder, sits to low for my liking, so have opted for an in between. Having no waterline drawing for this build except that posted earlier in the thread, I had to devise a baseplate to build up from.

 

2-deck.jpg

Using the 'second deck' plan above, I decided to divide it into three sections; aft, midships and forward.

 

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The fore and aft sections were modified using guesswork more than anything to something that can be used. The beam of the midships remains the same well below the waterline and is basically a box. Here, I've started the mid section with the spine and frames being added, together with tabs on the bottom to aid securing of fore and aft sections later.

 

20220110-175014.jpg

A quick shot of the sections pushed together.

 

Stuart

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@S-boat 55 @Steve D @robgizlu Thanks for stopping buy guys, hope I don't disappoint.

 

20220113-225705.jpg

Frames added to mid and forward sections. I added extra frames fwd to help with curve and found that sloping sides looked wrong on the curve, so corrections were made and look much better. Looking back at the mid section, I may add the extra frames there too, we'll see.

 

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Temporarily fitted the mid & fwd sections together, everything lines up nicely.

 

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Fwd shear looking good too. Next, the aft section, and that doesn't look fun.

 

Stuart

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19 hours ago, Bandsaw Steve said:

Looking good.

Cheers Steve.

 

20220114-150352.jpg

Aft section done and again, some corrections were made, no doubt there'll be more before the job is done.

 

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Side view.

 

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Sections pushed together.

 

Stuart

 

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2 hours ago, Terry1954 said:

what guage plastic card are you using

Cheers Terry, at the moment I'm using .75mm (30 thou) but will most probably go down in size for the hull and deck as I'll need a little more give to conform to the curves.

 

Stuart

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Very interesting scratch build. As I am planning to build some models with the same hull shape.

I think it is easier to scratch build these hulls as you do, as 3D print them.

Will follow your build.

Regards

Andreas

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On 1/20/2022 at 10:38 PM, Andreas.R said:

Very interesting scratch build.

Welcome aboard Andreas. I hope I can hold your interest. I will be using a number of 3D parts that Pascal @Iceman 29 kindly sorted for me.

 

At the moment I cannot crack on with laying the deck as I'm waiting for supplies. The knock on from this is that I can't fit the hull sides either. So, with the Everard now complete, I'll start with a few parts that can be do anytime.

 

20220125-164325.jpg

The ship was fitted with a number of cargo loaders, four of them operated on Samson posts and here we have the posts, caps and derricks. I used 2mm brass tubing for the posts and 0.6/0.8/1.0mm brass tubing for the derricks.

 

20220125-171907.jpg

Derricks primed together with the 6 cargo hatches.

 

Stuart

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Hello Stuart,

These parts will become very stable! Unfortunately I can't work with metal.

I still have to get my Phrozen 3D printer to finally print correctly.

For the hull, I thought about building it out of cardboard, and then soaking it with resin, and then exposing it to sunlight. Might work.

Regards 

Andreas

 

 

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4 hours ago, Andreas.R said:

Unfortunately I can't work with metal.

The metalwork I do is very basic. Those derricks were only lengths of tubing slid inside each other, superglued, then superglued into a small hole I made in the post. As for cardboard and resin, best of luck with that. I have heard of modelers soaking paper with superglue.

 

Stuart

 

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14 hours ago, Andreas.R said:

Unfortunately I can't work with metal.

Andreas,  Trust me, everyone can work with metal, way easier than plastic and the finish is so much better and stronger.  Allow me to encourage you to try.  I have a drawer of my cast off work and failed attempts, may be useful one day should I decide to model a scrap-yard :rofl:

 

Cheers

 

Steve

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11 hours ago, Courageous said:

The metalwork I do is very basic.

 

Always have to start some where Stuart and it is looking good so far might even pick up some tips for myself with yours and Steve's tutorials. :shrug:

 

Stay Safe

beefy

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1 hour ago, beefy66 said:

looking good so far might even pick up some tips for myself

Cheers Beefy, you might find something useful in what I'm doing. It should keep Steve happy for a short while with wood and metal playing a part, hardly his league though.

 

Stuart

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