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SS Fushimi Maru - Japanese Steamer - 1914-1943


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18 hours ago, beefy66 said:

Cracking stuff there Stuart with the decking. 

Thanks Beefy, I try.

17 hours ago, Iceman 29 said:

Great hull! 

Cheers Pascal, lets hope it's still 'great' when I've done it all.

14 hours ago, robgizlu said:

Love that decking and indeed the whole look - I've got scruffier wood furniture in my house than that deck 

Much appreciated Rob, let's hope that your furniture is less scruffy than your worn drifter.

 

Stuart

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Sorry for the lack of an update but it has been monotonous work. Anyhoo...

 

20220215-111353.jpg

Lots of filling, sanding, filling, sanding, priming, filling, sanding...blah...blah...blah :wall:. The hull is done to an acceptable standard, time to move onto the next stage :yes:.

 

20220215-111504.jpg

While the multiple layers of filler and primer was drying, I completed the navigation deck quarters. The core is 6mm balsa, lined with plasticard and painted white. I fitted a number of doors that were made from paper that were soaked with CA glue and painted a brown. The white was given a gloss coat, ready to receive the 66 windows made from chopped-up black decal. This will be repeated a number of times for the other deck quarters.

 

20220215-111542.jpg

Here is the promenade quarters using the same balsa and card, and will need the same window and door treatment.

 

With the hull ready for the next stage, what's next, 200+ portholes and other holes need to be drilled out.

 

Fushimi-Husimi.png

At the stern, there are two parallel 'strips'. Not sure what they are but they need to be added, then we can think about painting.

 

Stuart

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5 minutes ago, PAUL67 said:

represent the hull plating ?

I shall be taking a leaf out of @beefy66 book although others have done the same method. The method is to mask areas, apply a couple of layers of primer, remove the masking, apply another layer of primer and this apparently is sufficient to show plating. Most of the plating I've seen done shows horizontal bands which looks simple enough to do but that stern photo in my previous post shows rectangular plates which looks more problematic.

 

Stuart

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3 hours ago, Courageous said:

Most of the plating I've seen done shows horizontal bands which looks simple enough to do but that stern photo in my previous post shows rectangular plates which looks more problematic.

Well from what I have seen so far with the decking and the hull build up I would have thought not that much for a man of your up and coming skill set just take your time and review the plate pattern at regular quality check in's

Might be worth drawing on the plate pattern onto the hull before you start to add the layers of paint to show where you want to have the raised lines. just a suggestion.  :idea:

 

Stay Safe

beefy

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1 hour ago, beefy66 said:

your up and coming skill set

Thank you Beefy for your encouragement. Since posting the update, I've been experimenting with primer plating and works well when just doing the banding. The rectangular plating is a different story. Those plates are approximately 3x12mm and I don't fancy covering the whole hull with them! Still thinking :hmmm:

 

Stuart

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More bits done...

 

20220216-175903.jpg

These horizontal things were added using half-round plastic rod.

 

20220216-180010.jpg

Forgot the sticky-uppy bit on the bow. Added the anchor hole. Then its another bit of sanding, priming...

 

20220216-180204.jpg 

Lots and lots holes.

Plating, I have been playing around with masking and priming and nothing looks right when doing that 'brick-effect' plating. Knowing that it should be 'brick' plating and not bands, I think I'll be going with a smooth hull.

 

Stuart

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Paintshop to small...

 

20220222-184842.jpg

It wasn't until I starting painting the hull that I noticed that the spray booth was too small although it did fit diagonally...just. Upper half of hull painted Tamiya white before masking the pinstripe. Lower half of hull painted Colourcoats Anti-fowling red and a masked. Hull painted with AK black, then masking removed.

 

A question for those that build big ships in 1/350, do I sort out a base for this now to minimise handling before working on the deck?

 

Stuart

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16 minutes ago, Courageous said:

A question for those that build big ships in 1/350, do I sort out a base for this now to minimise handling before working on the deck?

Stuart.

I would. But how, really depends on what its final display will be. 
When I built HMS Mourne, I attached her to her final base once the hull was painted. Covered the wood of the base and used that for handling, but she is a lot smaller than your build. I have, with others, completely masked the finished hull, but that does carry the risk of the tape removing the paint.

Jon

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34 minutes ago, Faraway said:

I would. But how, really depends on what its final display will be. 

I'm tending to agree as I don't like having masking on for a period with the risks you have mentioned. I like my ship builds to be on seascapes, so maybe I should looking at that...

 

Stuart

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6 hours ago, Courageous said:

A question for those that build big ships in 1/350, do I sort out a base for this now to minimise handling before working on the deck?

Gidday Stuart, I attach mine to blocks of wood during the build, by screws coming up from underneath. It helps with handling and also protects the model shafts and screws if they're already fitted. but my models are quite often much smaller than this. But not always.

HD41.330 dry fit test 1 YKK180 completed 1

 

HTH. Regards, Jeff.

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9 hours ago, ArnoldAmbrose said:

Gidday Stuart, I attach mine to blocks of wood during the build, by screws coming up from underneath. It helps with handling and also protects the model shafts and screws if they're already fitted.

 

An ingenious idea, the problem is I always gets bit excited when starting a build and forget this very important first step.

 

David

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Gidday David, I don't attach the model to the block straight away. I'll re-inforce that location and drill holes in the hull along the centre-line for the screws but don't attach to the model until the hull is painted. One, two or three screws, depending on how long the hull is. Eg, Seydlitz and Hood had three. Below is my Seydlitz model.

SEYD2.20 hull glued

The model can be attached or removed any time it suits.

 

Sorry Stuart if I've hijacked your thread a bit. Regards, Jeff.

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On 2/22/2022 at 11:37 PM, Bandsaw Steve said:

Looking good! 👍

Cheers Steve.

On 2/23/2022 at 12:10 AM, ArnoldAmbrose said:

I attach mine to blocks of wood during the build

I have noticed the blocks in your builds but that horse has bolted, the bottom is only .5mm thick with no reinforcement.

22 hours ago, ArnoldAmbrose said:

Sorry Stuart if I've hijacked your thread a bit. Regards, Jeff

No problems Jeff, at least it was on topic.

 

I have started work on the sea base, so she'll get fixed to that for further work. I had almost forgotten about the ships name, particularly at the stern, so I'm also looking at options for them too.

 

Stuart

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Gidday Stuart, when I originally started using blocks I didn't reinforce the hull plastic but it still seemed OK. Reinforcing the plastic has been pandering to my developing sense of overkill. The hull plastic is often up to 1mm thick. But in your case 0.5mm might admittedly be a bit thin. Sorry I can't help more. Regards, Jeff.

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Hi guys, thought it was time for an update.

 

20220224-184952.jpg

Stern view of ships name. Th smallest white decals I had were about 1.4mm high from Model Decal which suited great but my spacing was a bit off, good enough for government work. The name was replicated on the forward hull with the same decals. After the decals were sealed with Mr Hobby's satin varnish before being mounted on its sea base.

 

forward2.jpg

For reference, I'll be using a number of photos of a museum example to help me with much of the detail where the plans are a bit woolly.

 

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After the glued had dried that was securing her to the base, she was demasked. First up was the breakwater(?) on the forecastle as this going to be my reference point for other stuff. A bit nerve racking fitting and gluing this, as I had to use CA glue.

 

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Scratch capstans and trunking were added together with the anchor windlass.

 

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Bitts were then added before fitting the PE steps from a generic step and railing set from Chaunyu Model Ship. The folding of the PE is still relatively new to me but 1/350 etch is a first, 1/700 PE will interesting.

From the reference photo, you can still see that there are details still to be added; various vents, anchor chain and a davit sort of thing up front but before that, I'll be moving aft.

 

Stuart

 

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     Gidday Stuart, I really like that ship's name across the stern. Regarding the letter spacing, if I really looked very very closely, with an optivisor of extreme magnification I thought perhaps maybe, just maybe a possible hint of an ever-so-slight difference (in the order of microns) in one or two of the letter spacings. Sort of maybe. Possibly. And then only after you mentioned it, brought it to our attention. 😁 Or am I imagining it? 🙂

     Seriously, it's very good. 👍 Regards, Jeff.

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She's coming along great Stuart.

 

The wooden deck looks awesome.  I like mounting the model to a wood block, as well, after the hull is painted.  From that point on, I've trained myself to grab the block first whenever I move the model.  It's saved me a number of times from getting my grubby finger prints & latex glove smudges on the painted surface.

 

John

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Looking good Stuart and great to see some old Modeldecals coming in handy yet again. I bet dear old Dick Ward never imagined his decals would be used on small scale ships like this, but no reason why they can't of course. They look pretty neat.

 

Terry

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Well.

This is looking very good.

But, I'm hugely disappointed with the name on the stern.................where are the Japanese characters ? :whistle:

No but, seriously this is a most excellent job, I do wish I could do the same.

Jon

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