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SS Fushimi Maru - Japanese Steamer - 1914-1943


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5 hours ago, Courageous said:

It should keep Steve happy for a short while with wood and metal playing a part, hardly his league though.

The longest journey begins with the first steps..

 

However, I don't think the league thing is right, I still chuck and re-do more than I keep.  Guess I'm just stubborn :banghead:

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Hi all,

 

Still waiting for materials to do the deck, so until then...

 

20220128-125337.jpg

I continued with the cargo hatches by scribing-in the planks, painting them with Vallejo Iraqi Sand and when dry, a dose of burnt umber oil to get the wood  effect. Surrounds were painted with RN antifouling red from Colourcoats.

 

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3D bollards from Pascal were cleaned up (not that they needed much), primed and painted satin black...

 

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as were these cargo winches...

 

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as was the capstan windlass and some more winches, still the odd hair creeps in.

 

Stuart

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22 hours ago, Adm Lord De Univers said:

I don't think they could've looked more like wood even if you'd used a wood veneer.

That's very kind of you David. I must admit, I think it's the best wood effect I've done to date.

 

Stuart

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On 1/29/2022 at 1:31 PM, Adm Lord De Univers said:

I don't think they could've looked more like wood even if you'd used a wood veneer.

 

Toally agree with David, they really do look rather good, and those 3D printed fittings look really neat as well.

 

Terry

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Have been playing around with decks. Originally, I was going to go with 1/64 plywood and score-in a plank effect. No matter what I tried, I didn't get the effect I was after, so 'Plan B'.

 

20220131-171040.jpg

After being very happy with the wood effect cargo hatches, I decided to see if I can do the same with the decks using plastic. So experimenting with a few lighter base colours and oils, I set my palette. I scribed the decking on various bits of plastic, gave them a coat of white primer and when dry, applied Burnt Umber oil which a removed slowly to get the desired effect. So far, I've completed the forward upper deck, aft upper deck, poop deck and the bridge deck. Ignore the finger prints on the top left deck (bridge deck) as it will have a cabin structure on top of it. Still got to do the forecastle, over poop, promenade, boat and navigation decks.

 

Stuart

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Gidday Stuart, for wood 'planking' I use Evergreen V-groove styrene sheeting, usually 2025. The sheets are 0.5mm thick and the grooves 0.64mm apart. HTH. But what you've done looks very good. Regards, Jeff.

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This is another ones of those "must follow" builds, great subject for a model, your woodworking skills are very impressive, I would recommend going for the thickest skin on the hull that you feel you can get away with, to avoid the dreaded rippling and give a good base for getting the surfaces right,I ended up using 1mm on my Vic and it worked out well, but that is significantly bigger, though yours must be a fair size,...... bit of an "Oooooh Matron " moment there, sorry !

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15 hours ago, ArnoldAmbrose said:

The sheets are 0.5mm thick and the grooves 0.64mm apart

Hi Jeff, thanks for the info. I wish I'd know about it before I started, would've saved myself much effort. I'll take a look for future builds.

12 hours ago, S-boat 55 said:

That non wooden wood looks very good to me, 

Thanks mate.

5 hours ago, Dancona said:

This is another ones of those "must follow" builds,

Follow away. 1mm makes sense but because the hull sides run into bulwarks, I want a mixture of strength without it being overly overscale. I've decided that a compromise was in order and will go with .5mm.

 

Stuart

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3 hours ago, Courageous said:

I'll take a look for future builds.

Gidday, there are other sizes too. 4030 is 1mm thick with grooves 0.75mm apart, 4040 is 1mm thick with grooves 1mm apart. There may be other sizes too but I use the first I mentioned (2025) because of the narrow gap between grooves. Plus other formats are available, such as siding. This represents corrugated building sheeting I think. I used it for the deck of HMS York before I discovered V-groove. If your LMS has an Evergreen stand it might be worth checking it out. HTH. Regards, Jeff.

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Another day...

20220202-170305.jpg

Poop deck & upper deck fitted.

 

20220202-170352.jpg

Forecastle and Promenade decks done, still have more decks to do.

 

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Here we have a number but not all blocks that are destined for the forecastle, bridge, promenade and boat decks. These blocks are made from 6mm balsa and when cut to shape, the outer faces will be faced with plastic.

 

Stuart

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Update time.

 

20220205-152927.jpg

Bridge deck with its lower cabins fitted amidships. Forecastle and its lower compartments also fitted. With these structures fitted, I can now turn my attention to the hull; midships should be straight forward, bow section a little more tricky as it requires  some shaping but hopefully I should do with only plastic sheet, aft section below the poop will require effort :pray:. Ignore the caping hole in the deck, had a little accident but fortunately the cabin structure will hide it.

 

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Looking aft towards Poop.

 

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Looking forward from Poop.

 

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Looking aft from forecastle.

 

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Looking forward to forecastle.

 

Stuart

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On 2/2/2022 at 12:54 AM, ArnoldAmbrose said:

Gidday, there are other sizes too. 4030 is 1mm thick with grooves 0.75mm apart, 4040 is 1mm thick with grooves 1mm apart. There may be other sizes too but I use the first I mentioned (2025) because of the narrow gap between grooves. Plus other formats are available, such as siding. This represents corrugated building sheeting I think. I used it for the deck of HMS York before I discovered V-groove. If your LMS has an Evergreen stand it might be worth checking it out. HTH. Regards, Jeff.

I also used Evergreen v-groove for my 1/400 scale Heller kits. The deck from the Heller kits are like the "raised panel lines" found on old aircraft kits,

and are looking painted not very good.

Regards

Andreas

 

 

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