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Aer Lingus + Holiday airlines Airbus A320 Dual build


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Hey folks,

 

i'm back haha 🙂 after finishing my easyjet 319, i'm now sharing with you a WIP of two A320s. One is a custom order from someone, the other one is for myself.

The custom ordered one will be AerLingus and my own will be holiday airlines, an airline most of you probably haven't heard of. Basically my friend @Berko suggested to do something from turkey, which initially wasn't my preference, but then i remembered that i flew to turkey in '94 and in a split second the choice was made. 

 

Since i have a weird tendency to build rare birds or things that are neither popular nor beautiful, this color scheme might not wake up everyones interest.

 

People who know me, are aware of whats coming. Lots of scratch builds, details, corrections and ways of doing things a bit different maybe, which doesnt mean it is right or good, but my aim is always to improve my model skills and to share stuff here, so you can supply me with tips or ideas and vice versa.

 

holiday_tcgaa.jpg

EI-DVJ_A320-214_Aer_Lingus_PMI_31MAY12_(

 

Less talking, here come the first pics.

 

First i was a bit bored and i started with the fuselage halfs. So the surface is made for painting it with a brush, very coarse and not airbrush friendly. I initally filled the main door oulines with superglue. The rear doors are rectangular - which is completely wrong. seems like the CAD designer forgot them.

After filling i sanded the stuff and now the surface is nice and the door outlines are gone. this way i dont have any conflict with the door decal dimensions.

 

IMG_1332 FB51D9E7-253A-4AA0-B0C8-0AD317F121A1

 

next up is the flight deck.

Added thrust levers and a proper anti glare shield.

 

IMG_1333 IMG_1373

 

 

 

 

Edited by RCI
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Hi Sini! These are going to be great...as usual. Looking forward to following this master class. How are you producing the cockpit panels in miniature? I remember seeing the panel for the MD-11 and now I’m seeing them for the A320s. Do you simply reduce photos of the real glass cockpit? This would be a useful and challenging new detail to add...especially with the use of your amazing cockpit caps. 
 

Cheers! 
Paul

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@RCI I have been waiting for this for a long time my friend. Another master class modelling spotted on the horizon! I will definitely watch

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10 hours ago, Challenger350Pilot said:

Hi Sini! These are going to be great...as usual. Looking forward to following this master class. How are you producing the cockpit panels in miniature? I remember seeing the panel for the MD-11 and now I’m seeing them for the A320s. Do you simply reduce photos of the real glass cockpit? This would be a useful and challenging new detail to add...especially with the use of your amazing cockpit caps. 
 

Cheers! 
Paul

 

Hey Paul,

 thx again for your support on this. 🙂

Actually i dont use photoreal stuff, simply because in this scale it is almost impossible to see it through a cockpit window. I might try it some time, but for the time being my method is more of a simple approach. i just use shapes like black squares for LCD screens, rounded squares for CRTs and circles for analogue instruments. in 1/72 scale its a whole different story, dont know maybe it also severly depends if you have a real good printer that is able to depict the details on a photoreal decal in 1/144. but i will give a try some time...

 

8 hours ago, GROWLER said:

I will watch! I can't name the reason, but it's very interesting to follow your work!

thx growler, i promise i'll do my best to deliver standard or above

 

4 hours ago, Berko said:

@RCI I have been waiting for this for a long time my friend. Another master class modelling spotted on the horizon! I will definitely watch

haha...you talked me into that turkish thing, its all your fault 🙂 no seriously, i love this oldie stuff, and a Bus with a 2xx serial number i have personally flown on is a must. especially from an airline that was banned in germany.

 

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a few updates today.

i took some seats i made for the A330 cockpit set, since they are the same on the 320 i made a couple of resin copies.

Interior airbus blue is applied on the flightdeck.

 

At the same time i prepared the fuselage halfs. Drilled holes for the lights and filled them with molotow. Next steps will be to fill them with clear resin, then mask them, paint the fuselage in white and will the cabin windows with clear resin.

 

IMG_1427 IMG_1426 IMG_1543 IMG_1545 IMG_1544

 

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  • RCI changed the title to Aer Lingus + Holiday airlines Airbus A320 Dual build
  • 3 weeks later...

Some progress in the last few days. i see more and more issues with the zvezda A320, allthough only minor stuff that can be corrected easily.

 

This way i did the clear cabin windows, electrical tape outside, then deaired clear resin from the inside.

Also i was able to finish the flight decks. The aer lingus one has LCDs (lower pic), the holiday airlines has CRTs (upper pic), hardly visible but if you take a closer look you can see the roundedged CRTs.

The aer lingus plane will get some preiser pilots inside, because it will have flaps in CONF1+F, which wouldnt make sense on an empty flightdeck.

 

IMG_1786 IMG_1788 IMG_1787 IMG_1804 IMG_1805 IMG_1806

 

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This will be interesting. Are the cabin windows more square than the kit? With your pressure pot, what pressure do you take it to for resin?

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7 hours ago, Moa said:

Great work!

thx moa!

4 hours ago, busnproplinerfan said:

This will be interesting. Are the cabin windows more square than the kit? With your pressure pot, what pressure do you take it to for resin?

the problem is the zvezda 320 windows are too large and the shape is too round. i fill them with clear resin and mask them at some later stage, this way i get the original shape, which is also provided with the stencil sheet.

 

the pressure pot was used to deair the clear resin before i poured it, i usually deair at the maximum power of -1bar.

When the fuselage parts are small enough, i put them inside the pot and deair the resin when it is already inside the windows, this time that was not possible due to the 320s size. 😕 but still it worked out ok, just took me way longer to get some of the bubbles out...

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4 hours ago, RCI said:

thx moa!

the problem is the zvezda 320 windows are too large and the shape is too round. i fill them with clear resin and mask them at some later stage, this way i get the original shape, which is also provided with the stencil sheet.

 

the pressure pot was used to deair the clear resin before i poured it, i usually deair at the maximum power of -1bar.

When the fuselage parts are small enough, i put them inside the pot and deair the resin when it is already inside the windows, this time that was not possible due to the 320s size. 😕 but still it worked out ok, just took me way longer to get some of the bubbles out...

How do you do all that when the resin hardens so quick? I have an aluminum paint pressure pot that i have to figure out. When I did casting I have just enough time to get resin into a couple of molds before it starts to gel. When you do deair, you are sucking the air out correct? I thought you just put the mold in and pressurize it.

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8 hours ago, busnproplinerfan said:

How do you do all that when the resin hardens so quick? I have an aluminum paint pressure pot that i have to figure out. When I did casting I have just enough time to get resin into a couple of molds before it starts to gel. When you do deair, you are sucking the air out correct? I thought you just put the mold in and pressurize it.

haha... thats a very legitimate question! indeed that is an issue with normal resin. Still you can choose, there are resins with longer pouring time, but in return they take longer to cure.

With clear resin completely different story. Usually all PU clear resins have pouring times of roughly 1 hour. So there is plenty of time to deair and cast and also correct it. I usually add a few drops of UV stabilizer and deairing fluid. One prevents the stuff from yellowing within years, the other one must be dosed carefully cause it impacts clarity of the resin, but makes it way easier to deair under a suction of -1 bar.

You can also skip the deairing fluid, but then there will be bubbles left in the resin and it takes some work to get them out once poured inside the fuselage.

 

believe me, it took me a few years to improve this method and to get the results i have today, and still sometimes things go wrong. if your model fits in the deairing device, great! if not, a bit more work must be done to achieve similar results!

cheers

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On 10/31/2020 at 2:30 PM, Challenger350Pilot said:

Hi Sini! These are going to be great...as usual. Looking forward to following this master class. How are you producing the cockpit panels in miniature? I remember seeing the panel for the MD-11 and now I’m seeing them for the A320s. Do you simply reduce photos of the real glass cockpit? This would be a useful and challenging new detail to add...especially with the use of your amazing cockpit caps. 
 

Cheers! 
Paul

paul, i think my next WIP here will be something more popular, i can clearly see that people are not so much into Airbuses of shabby turkish operators :D

Apart from a 757 demonstrator on the bench, i thought of an aero america 720, Delta DC9, ValuJet DC9, Air Austral 787, Etihad 773, Air Canada DC9 - suggestions?

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What’s a pu resin? I used to use smooth on but it’s got to short a shelf life. I’ve been using alumalite and it’s not bad but still not much time to work it. I’ve been looking for a slow setting resin doesn’t matter if it takes a day as long as it gets hard and is paintable.

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6 hours ago, busnproplinerfan said:

What’s a pu resin? I used to use smooth on but it’s got to short a shelf life. I’ve been using alumalite and it’s not bad but still not much time to work it. I’ve been looking for a slow setting resin doesn’t matter if it takes a day as long as it gets hard and is paintable.

PU = polyurethane

normal resins have pouring times between 3-9 minutes, depending on the sort. Clear resin has a different composition, the ratio between the two components is 1:2 

Have a look on ebay, you should be able to find clear resin there, almost all of them have long pouring times.

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4 hours ago, RCI said:

PU = polyurethane

normal resins have pouring times between 3-9 minutes, depending on the sort. Clear resin has a different composition, the ratio between the two components is 1:2 

Have a look on ebay, you should be able to find clear resin there, almost all of them have long pouring times.

Polyurethane, missed that one. smooth on  has a clear but it behaves like the others. I think it was slower to harden, just a bit, been awhile. Prefer 1:1 mixes but haven’t seen the 1:2 yet. I still have a pack of alumilte to use. It’s a good price but shipping from next door in Minnesota is expensive because it’s a dangerous good crossing the border. Any good brand for the clear? Or are they all about the same? I want to eventually try make large parts like wings and such. How is the stuff you use for mixing small batches? A lot of questions and I don’t want to go to off the thread’s topic.

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2 hours ago, busnproplinerfan said:

Polyurethane, missed that one. smooth on  has a clear but it behaves like the others. I think it was slower to harden, just a bit, been awhile. Prefer 1:1 mixes but haven’t seen the 1:2 yet. I still have a pack of alumilte to use. It’s a good price but shipping from next door in Minnesota is expensive because it’s a dangerous good crossing the border. Any good brand for the clear? Or are they all about the same? I want to eventually try make large parts like wings and such. How is the stuff you use for mixing small batches? A lot of questions and I don’t want to go to off the thread’s topic.

All resins are mostly PU. I havent found any clear resin with a 1:1 ratio in 10 years, it seems to be chemically impossible with that different structure, so its not a matter of preference, its just given.

Even normal resins have different formulas, one has a pouring time of 3-4 minutes, the other one has 9-10 minutes - depends on what you want to do with it. Small amounts cure slower than huge amounts, thats a basic rule with resins.

Have a look on ebay, i got mine from a german local producer on ebay. Usually it is widely available.

 

Dont worry about the thread, no one else is here 🤣

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2 hours ago, RCI said:

...

 

Dont worry about the thread, no one else is here 🤣

I'm here, following with fascination and amazement.  :hypnotised:

 

Dave G

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4 hours ago, Skodadriver said:

I'm here, following with fascination and amazement.  :hypnotised:

 

Dave G

Oh Dave, i thought i was alone here :) awesome that you are joining the party

 

today i had time to install the flightdeck with the nose gear wheelwell. Nice idea from zvezda to glue it first to the bottom of the cockpit area - sadly this is not gonna work, and i guessed so before. So instead i put the flightdeck in place and once dried i glued in the wheelwell avoiding nasty gaps between the fuselage and the wheelwell... there might be no contact to the cockpit tub but at least it is flush with the fuselage gear opening.

 

Also i managed to scratch build the bloody outflow valve on both aircraft. i dont understand why this is such a neglected area by every kit manufacturer. 😕

First i drilled a hole and then with the hobbyknife i cut out the area followed by a sanding orgy..took me long to get both exactly the same, but it turned out ok. The valve flaps were done with normal 0.5mm styrene sheet, sanded further down to be thinner.

Now i only need to do sealing from the inside...reason is - an open hole is a dust source, and with clear windows this is unacceptable. Same with the Stabilizer mounting holes, i sealed them with liquid masking.

Before the fuselage halfs are glued i will do some advanced cleaning and checking for possible sources. there is nothing worse than a dust particle inside the cockpit window 💩 i did a first dryfit as on the picture

 

Also i recieved some more stuff, ordered microdetails etch parts, quite cheap but good value though i will use just a very small amount of it.

Stencils come from uprise decal... looks reaaaallllyy nice, window frames look spot on - that was my main motivation to buy them, rest looks good too. will see how these behave...

 

IMG_1817 IMG_1818 IMG_1820 IMG_1819

 

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I’ll have to look into the clear resins, maybe that’s the trick. What’s the outflow valve do? Something I’ll have to watch for when I get some airliners going.

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I loved his previous job with the Easyjet A319 and I'm sure this current one has a high level.  
The resin that I usually use in my models is from the Gedeo Pébéo brand but over the years I see that it also turns yellow...
I follow your progress with interest. 
Regards.

Miguel

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9 hours ago, busnproplinerfan said:

I’ll have to look into the clear resins, maybe that’s the trick. What’s the outflow valve do? Something I’ll have to watch for when I get some airliners going.

The ouflow valve regulates the cabin pressure altitude. Every aircfraft with a pressurized cabin has one, 747s have two of them.

 

3 hours ago, Manares said:

I loved his previous job with the Easyjet A319 and I'm sure this current one has a high level.  
The resin that I usually use in my models is from the Gedeo Pébéo brand but over the years I see that it also turns yellow...
I follow your progress with interest. 
Regards.

Miguel

thx for your kind words Miguel.

the pebeo stuff is terrible, i used it as well for my first experiments and after 2 years it was so yellowed :(

3 hours ago, Team Aer Lingus said:

really nice work so far your putting together a great pair of good looking airliners

 

thanks for sharing

 

regards

 

Eamonn

thx Eamonn, i'm doing my best, lets see how these work out. Its a bit annoying that even the zvezda kit has many flaws

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