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8 hours ago, Codger said:

Ron, your paint techniques plus a heavy coat of clear will work. I might stipple color on with sponge then clear to near gloss. The originals were only glass cloth (not too heavy weight) bonded with resin and gel-coat.

 

8 hours ago, Coors54 said:

Tamiya clear orange over a stippled dirty yellow brown?

 

Dave

 

Good suggestions chaps...noted and stored :)

 

Greatly appreciated.

 

Ron

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7 hours ago, BESTBALSAKITS said:

+1 although i'd go semi gloss max, with matt areas from dirt/grinding smooth etc

Made in 2 half moulds, so outside is smooth, inside is rough: old glassfiber strand not always laid down perfectly in difficult areas, so after resin was set, little smooting with sandpaper/angle grinder was normal & necessary: one could easily get hurt on the sharp edges & spikes of fibre/resin. 
You can see the two halfs being joined top & bottom and then joint got smoothed out. I think the 2 outer dimensions of part A & B to be the same because easy to force into each other, the inner structure would have bigger size on 1 part for easy assembling. I think .

It might be nice to reproduce inner rough surface using some clear & real fibreglass strands (easily unrafled into individual 'wires') added into wet paint. If fibreglass wire too thin, one might even try real hair. How nice would that be: the only time you don't need to worry there's a hair in your clear 😉

It looks like middle one in pictures is differs compared to others. Much thinner side wall, & less wide traveling area for steering rack

 

Wim

 

Hi Wim...nice to see you on Brit...and really pleased you have joined us :)

 

I have noted all you have suggested...and agree that the insides need to be roughened up...plus I was thinking a semi gloss finish with areas of matt from wear etc. also.

Great minds think alike.

 

Those pics were just to show the overall finish that I will try to achieve...there are a lot of different brake ducts...with a variety of finishes...but the ones I showed seem to be constant on this marque.

 

Best wishes

 

Ron

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just a small update...still waiting for the opportunity to get things primed for painting...so have continued with detailing some areas...one of which was the dashboard and footwell cover...unfortunately...whilst trying to separate the two...I managed to break a leg on the dash...so used some ali plate to rebuild the legs...will look better when painted I hope...

IMG-6079.jpg

 

Next up were the fuel rails...and for this I have tried to match the 1:1 refs as closely as possible...using 1mm hex rivets and 1.9mm connectors...with the fittings now correctly orientated for the fuel lines...

IMG-6088.jpg

 

Then came the hard lines for the rear brakes...I used 0.6mm nickel rod for the lines...and 1mm fittings...with the bleed points being 1mm also...they are not glued in place yet as I will paint all the individual parts separately before final fixing...

IMG-6092.jpg

 

Last few pics are locations for fixings etc. ...

IMG-6093.jpgIMG-6094.jpgIMG-6096.jpgIMG-6095.jpg

 

to be continued.......

 

Merry Xmas and a Happy New Year to all :)

 

Ron

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Good to see you resume this Ron. Great tiny details emerging. Especially the high-value and visible brake lines. I would leave them in nickel - they look beautiful and real. You do very well with minute hex fittings.

Keep the brilliance coming.

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Looking great, Ron. So much detils added after lots of research. This will turn out to be a very realistic model.

Merry Christmas, to you (and everybody else too of course).

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21 hours ago, Codger said:

Good to see you resume this Ron. Great tiny details emerging. Especially the high-value and visible brake lines. I would leave them in nickel - they look beautiful and real. You do very well with minute hex fittings.

Keep the brilliance coming.

 

Many thanks Mr C...I may just matt seal the brake lines...but won't paint them...fittings also...with maybe a wash to bring out the detail.

Itching to get things primed so I can get the paints out...although all this prep means I should progress quite quickly with regard to assembly once primed/painted.

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15 hours ago, Pouln said:

Looking great, Ron. So much detils added after lots of research. This will turn out to be a very realistic model.

Merry Christmas, to you (and everybody else too of course).

 

Research and patience are paying off now Poul...with new refs from members I have been able to correct some previous errors...and push the detail a little further...which should add to the realism at the end.

 

Appreciate your comment :)

 

Ron

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A tiny update I forgot in the last one.

As with many of the kit parts...a little work can improve them immensely...an example being the simplistic rear drive shafts (at the bottom of the pic)...some brass and ali tube turns the whole look of them...and gives added strength at the same time.

Before inserting the ali into the brass I heated the brass to red hot...which gives a nice 'used' colour to them...then once assembled...I turned them in the Dremel...to give the ali ends a slight 'dome' to fit the rubber boots...

IMG-6103.jpg

 

to be continued.......

 

Ron

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Beautiful detail work Ron. In all fairness the out of box-version of a 1/12 Tamiya kit such as this Ferrari is a great basis but can lack quite a bit of detail. Adding that, as you diligently do, extravagantly improves the level of realism. 

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10 hours ago, Roy vd M. said:

Beautiful detail work Ron. In all fairness the out of box-version of a 1/12 Tamiya kit such as this Ferrari is a great basis but can lack quite a bit of detail. Adding that, as you diligently do, extravagantly improves the level of realism. 

 

Many thanks Roy...totally agree...if you just want a nice display piece...then the OOB kit will suffice...but yes...with a bit of time/research and effort...you can put in a good amount of needed realism.

 

Best wishes

 

Ron

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2 hours ago, Redstaff said:

Nice little touches  there Ron that add more detail, excellent tips :) 

 

Merry Christmas and a Happy New year to you :) 

 

Ian

 

Hi mate...glad you like the added detail :)

 

And my very best to you and yours Ian.

 

Cheers

 

Ron

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Hi Ron,

 

I've been with family for the last few days, so could only "sneak" views onto the forum via my cell phone!  Pictures certainly read better on the comparatively giant home monitor!  Which is good, as I can now clearly see what you've built.  I'm really pleased to see what you built on the fuel rails, intake manifold risers, and injectors.  Those always interest me, and I don't recall seeing too many attempts to rework them.  Tamiya does a nice basic job on these parts (which while I realize are different, but are also characteristically similar to those on the DFV engines) which look "kit-good" if that makes sense, but yours look better!  Something about seeing individual components really stand out on a model.  Another, less dramatic but strong improvement is the bracket and bolts you added in the last photo - I'll bet that assembly will look great once you've painted it up.  And, all of the other updates - looking great.

 

Looking forward to your next update - 

Cheers

Nick

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18 hours ago, rjfk2002 said:

Stunning work as always! Great tip on the drive shafts

 

Hi Rich...pleased you like the drive shafts...good old 'slide fit' tubes...a very useful resource in any scale :)

 

Ron

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15 hours ago, Stickframe said:

Hi Ron,

 

I've been with family for the last few days, so could only "sneak" views onto the forum via my cell phone!  Pictures certainly read better on the comparatively giant home monitor!  Which is good, as I can now clearly see what you've built.  I'm really pleased to see what you built on the fuel rails, intake manifold risers, and injectors.  Those always interest me, and I don't recall seeing too many attempts to rework them.  Tamiya does a nice basic job on these parts (which while I realize are different, but are also characteristically similar to those on the DFV engines) which look "kit-good" if that makes sense, but yours look better!  Something about seeing individual components really stand out on a model.  Another, less dramatic but strong improvement is the bracket and bolts you added in the last photo - I'll bet that assembly will look great once you've painted it up.  And, all of the other updates - looking great.

 

Looking forward to your next update - 

Cheers

Nick

 

Hi Nick...pretty much every 1/12 Tamiya F1 kit uses the same type of fuel pump/injector set up/pieces...with the same generic stubs etc. for connections...and...even with careful assembly and painting...still always look like plastic to me.

With so many 'after market' bits available these days...it's worth the outlay...time and effort...to raise the detail levels a notch...and making simple things like brackets just give that bit more depth IMHO.

 

Hope you had a good one mate :)

 

Ron

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A small continuation of areas that I am still working on to improve the overall look of this beast when it's finished.

This time it's the rear rollover cage...which is somewhat lacking in presence...so...using the kit parts...I have fashioned a new one from ali tubes of varying sizes...with the kit pieces forming a handy template.

Although I cannot finalise all the lengths and angles until the engine/gearbox are mated to the chassis...I have at least got the bending and joints sorted out to as close as I can...(the smaller bits at the right hand side are the internal stays for fixing to the top of the hoop and the gearbox.).

You will note the two downward prongs on the crossbar...these do not appear on the 1:1 so will be left off in favour of ref pic evidence...showing the canister hung from it with tape/straps...

IMG-6105.jpg

 

A couple of refs to illustrate what I have said...

1975-07-19-Silverstone-UK-21.jpg1975-09-07-Monza-Italy-42.jpg

 

to be continued.......

 

Ron

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Miles better making the bits rather than shaving mold lines off the kit junk. Looks to be excellent shape accuracy. Two thoughts;

Making the gusset across the top of the 'A'; may need a Bondo bit or such to mimic that.

 

I would HATE to strap into the 1;1 with a canister or hydraulic/ overflow tank of some kind inches behind my head. Bad enough near 500HP is rampant back there...:frantic:

 

 

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35 minutes ago, Codger said:

I would HATE to strap into the 1;1 with a canister or hydraulic/ overflow tank of some kind inches behind my head. Bad enough near 500HP is rampant back there...:frantic:

Ha, ha 🤣 it's the medical oxygen tank, if the flames didn't get you the tank whacking you in the back of the head at 23G deceleration would! What were they thinking?

 

Dave

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