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1/12 312T 1975


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1 hour ago, NigeG said:

Hi Ron

Each new post is now eagerly awaited, truly stunning.

 

what paint will you use to create the final colour. 

 

Many thanks for that Nige...glad you enjoy the updates.

 

For the paint I am moving into new territory...going to use the Tamiya LP range of lacquers 😱...although they have received great revues...which was why I decided to give them a go.

 

Cheers

 

Ron

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Hi Ron, regarding the LP paints from Tamiya it's quite important that you use there own dedicated thinner with retarder which comes in a plastic container with an orange lid. 

 

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Mixed at least 60% thinner to 40% paint you should have no problems achieving your desired finish. A few light coats followed by a couple of progressively wetter coats should do the job nicely. Apologies if you already knew this information just trying to pass on my knowledge of this paint as I've used it quite a lot in the past. Top quality work by the way Ron looks stunning and very realistic indeed 🙂👍.

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54 minutes ago, Andy J said:

Hi Ron, regarding the LP paints from Tamiya it's quite important that you use there own dedicated thinner with retarder which comes in a plastic container with an orange lid. 

 

spacer.png

 

Mixed at least 60% thinner to 40% paint you should have no problems achieving your desired finish. A few light coats followed by a couple of progressively wetter coats should do the job nicely. Apologies if you already knew this information just trying to pass on my knowledge of this paint as I've used it quite a lot in the past. Top quality work by the way Ron looks stunning and very realistic indeed 🙂👍.

 

Agree with Andy, but also Mr Colour Levelling Thinner (a.k.a Unicorn Tears) works too and is my preference leaving me with an unused bottle of the Tamiya

 

Tony

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2 hours ago, Andy J said:

Hi Ron, regarding the LP paints from Tamiya it's quite important that you use there own dedicated thinner with retarder which comes in a plastic container with an orange lid. 

 

spacer.png

 

Mixed at least 60% thinner to 40% paint you should have no problems achieving your desired finish. A few light coats followed by a couple of progressively wetter coats should do the job nicely. Apologies if you already knew this information just trying to pass on my knowledge of this paint as I've used it quite a lot in the past. Top quality work by the way Ron looks stunning and very realistic indeed 🙂👍.

 

Cheers for that info Andy...and yes...I have the correct thinners (the one in your pic)...and your tips would appear to be pretty much consistent with my research...the only difference being the paint to thinner ratio...seems to vary between 40% - 60% thinners...so will do some tests to find out what ratio suits my airbrush and the chosen colour best.

 

Glad you like the progress so far :)

 

Ron

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1 hour ago, Mumbly said:

 

Agree with Andy, but also Mr Colour Levelling Thinner (a.k.a Unicorn Tears) works too and is my preference leaving me with an unused bottle of the Tamiya

 

Tony

 

Thanks for your input Tony...much appreciated 👍

I am averse to mixing brands...just personal choice...but it's nice to know there are other options available :)

 

Ron

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I used LP on my NSR project, very impressed with them.

i messed up the blue decals so I had to put X4 acrylic over the LP and this caused no issues, as per instructions. 

you can’t put LP over acrylic though, hungry paint monster time. 

 

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1 hour ago, NigeG said:

I used LP on my NSR project, very impressed with them.

i messed up the blue decals so I had to put X4 acrylic over the LP and this caused no issues, as per instructions. 

you can’t put LP over acrylic though, hungry paint monster time. 

 

 

Thanks for insight Nige :)

 

Have you used their LP-9 (clear)) over decals?

 

Ron

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36 minutes ago, silver911 said:

 

Thanks for insight Nige :)

 

Have you used their LP-9 (clear)) over decals?

 

Ron

I’m sure I just used alclad clear kote gloss. I haven’t tried the LP clear yet.

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20 minutes ago, NigeG said:

I’m sure I just used alclad clear kote gloss. I haven’t tried the LP clear yet.

 

Thanks mate...guess I will find out for myself 😱

I will be doing the rear wing support...although it only has a couple of small decals on it...it will at least give me an idea of any issues and...hopefully...avoid me ruining the main ones later on.

 

Ron

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13 minutes ago, silver911 said:

 

Thanks mate...guess I will find out for myself 😱

I will be doing the rear wing support...although it only has a couple of small decals on it...it will at least give me an idea of any issues and...hopefully...avoid me ruining the main ones later on.

 

Ron

Cut some scrap un-needed decal off, apply to painted spoon, then clear to test............make several if you need.

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9 hours ago, Codger said:

Cut some scrap un-needed decal off, apply to painted spoon, then clear to test............make several if you need.

 

Nice one Mr C...will prime a couple of spoons later Today 👍 :)

 

Ron

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just a fun update :)

Whilst waiting for a new needle/nozzle set for the airbrush in readiness for working with the Tamiya LP (lacquer) paints...I have been thinking more about the final display options...and...having already decided to display the beast with partial clothing...it will need a number of 'maintenanced' based tools lying around.

With this in mind I managed to get a set of the 1/12 Tamiya tools...which...whilst basic...gave me a good basis for a few small modifications.

First up...the fire extinguisher...to which I added the trigger lever...the pivot fittings...pressure gauge...a new hose and nozzle...and finally...the retaining band/holder for the hose...the blob of a kit hose is in the middle...

 

IMG-6652.jpg

 

Then came the rubber mallet...I mean...why paint plastic to look like wood when you can have a real wood handle...which was turned in the Dremel...then stained with oil paint...it will be cut down once fitted...

 

A1.jpgA2.jpgA3.jpg

 

Next up...a drill bit fitted to the hand drill...and a metal blade for the hacksaw...

 

 

A4.jpgA5.jpg

 

The kit wheel wrench is somewhat lacking in definition...so a metal one from ali/brass/nickel and heat shrink replaced it...

 

A6.jpg

 

One kind of tool that is missing from the set...and is common to working on any car/vehicle...an air wrench...which again uses brass and ali + fitting for connecting the hose.

Ignore the tube sticking out of the back...this will be cut once I have finished detailing the body...but it provides a way to handle it whilst doing so.

The coiled hose is simply coated wire wound around a cuticle stick...and final colour/length will be decided later...

 

IMG-6662.jpgIMG-6663.jpg

 

Obviously...these are just a few of the many tools and accessories that will be needed for the final display...and I am still working on those.

 

to be continued.......

 

 

 

 

 

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Hi Rich,

for the wrench I simply used 1 mm ali tube...into which I inserted a piece of 0.6 mm nickel silver rod...no heating needed...however...the trick is to do the bends in a small vice...with the inside faces of the jaws covered in masking tape to avoid abrasions to the soft ali.

 

Thanks for comment...much appreciated :)

 

Ron

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"Just a fun update" eh? really?  You stop posting for a few days and comeback with this!  I've got to say, I really like the speed wrench and the impact driver  - wow - those look great!  And metal none the less - wow! (again!) great work.  I am hoping, this marks the beginning of a few related odds and ends - a tool cabinet? small bench?? 😁

 

Keep on building Ron!

 

Cheers

Nick

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58 minutes ago, Stickframe said:

"Just a fun update" eh? really?  You stop posting for a few days and comeback with this!  I've got to say, I really like the speed wrench and the impact driver  - wow - those look great!  And metal none the less - wow! (again!) great work.  I am hoping, this marks the beginning of a few related odds and ends - a tool cabinet? small bench?? 😁

 

Keep on building Ron!

 

Cheers

Nick

 

First off...cheers for comment Nick :)

 

Secondly...glad you like the selection of tools.

Yes...a lot more bits and pieces in the making...tool chest...socket set and handle...screw drivers...files...spanners...pliers...open wrench...a long throw jack...stands...and...of course...the torque wrench I made a while back etc. etc. ...you know the score mate...the ever expanding list.

A rubbish bin and broom...oily rags...drip tray...then of course...the backdrop itself...maybe something along these lines...

 

03-1975-ferrari-312-t.jpg

 

Time will tell I guess 😉

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Been working on one of the extra tools/accessories I mentioned in the previous update...the 'one shot' or 'long throw' jack.

I wanted this to retain the kits functionality...but...in order to actually lift and hold the weight of all that PE and metals used...it needed substantial strengthening!

So...using a combination of the strongest of the plastic parts...I scratched the remaining one's from brass...ali...steel (pins) and nickel silver.

These are a few photo's of how I went about it.

First off...a new handle and actuating frame were fabricated...and fitted to the kit part that was left after removing the handle...with pivot points sleeved with ali tube...

 

IMG-6671.jpgIMG-6674.jpg

 

Needing to retain the lifting plate was a simple matter of cutting off the plastic frame...and the fixing the new frame...made from square brass tube...to...

 

IMG-6675.jpgIMG-6676.jpg

 

Once I had all the kit and new parts ready...just a case of final adjustments for smooth operation...then it was assembled and final fittings added...it will be disassembled for priming and painting...but I am pleased to say it all works fine...

 

IMG-6683.jpgIMG-6684.jpg

Ron

 

 

to be continued.......

 

 

 

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Ron, wow - the jack looks really nice - better still it's operable! wow again!  I've also found that scale models, in relative terms, can be heavy and if building lifts/racks, that it's worth the effort to go with metal if the part is structural.  I did the same for the 1/20 shop, and used plenty of metal (though none had moving parts!) - metal will carry the load, and could survive my dropping, bumping, and so on along the build trail.  Looking forward to seeing more tools!

 

Cheers

Nick 

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4 hours ago, Stickframe said:

Ron, wow - the jack looks really nice - better still it's operable! wow again!  I've also found that scale models, in relative terms, can be heavy and if building lifts/racks, that it's worth the effort to go with metal if the part is structural.  I did the same for the 1/20 shop, and used plenty of metal (though none had moving parts!) - metal will carry the load, and could survive my dropping, bumping, and so on along the build trail.  Looking forward to seeing more tools!

 

Cheers

Nick 

 

With planning the final display...and trying to cover all the possible options for such...it made sense to give myself the choice of being able to use this as part of a 'maintenance' scenario.

 

As always...your comments and support are greatly appreciated Nick :)

 

Ron

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On 5/18/2021 at 10:26 PM, silver911 said:

Strangely enough...the meshes...or rather the colour of them...is still bugging me Mr C but...as yet...I am undecided what to do about it!

Phew, had to take some time to read up this point.

Quite some stuff you are showing. Particularly the tools you are creating. That will make an great show.

 

Now that you are at this point, did you make sure that the cat still understands to keep away?😉

 

Regarding the quoted remark. Are the meshes chrome or nickel plated in real life?

If so, you might give the Molotow chrome a try. Dilute it sufficiently with alcohol (no, not the drinkable type) to make it thinner, otherwise it will probably clog the meshes.  

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49 minutes ago, Pouln said:

Phew, had to take some time to read up this point.

Quite some stuff you are showing. Particularly the tools you are creating. That will make an great show.

 

Now that you are at this point, did you make sure that the cat still understands to keep away?😉

 

Regarding the quoted remark. Are the meshes chrome or nickel plated in real life?

If so, you might give the Molotow chrome a try. Dilute it sufficiently with alcohol (no, not the drinkable type) to make it thinner, otherwise it will probably clog the meshes.  

 

Tools are progressing nicely now Poul...got another 30 primed today!

 

Cat behaving properly :)

 

As for the meshes...it's the brightness of mine that is bugging me...so Molotow would be worse to my eye...I want them toned down nearer these...

 

1AZ.jpg

 

Your comments and input are very welcome.

 

Ron

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