1/12 312T 1975

[silver911]

22 hours ago, Stickframe said:

Hi Ron, I need to echo the words of others on this update - it sure is coming together well!  While I don't exactly know the problems you ran into on the steering column, I can report potentially similar headaches in the 1/20 F1 kits - the non-operable u-joints are big, oddly shaped, making them awfully awkward to work with, even with much of the details molded in - above, you actually have the steering column, and the need to get it to line up, through the hole and then into the mounting bracket - ugh!  I can imagine that being quite frustrating!  In any event, it looks great 🍻  It looks like you've got the throttle linkage attached too - very nice!  actually, all of the pre-wiring is looking great 😀

 

So, all of the headaches seem to be paying off, and to go back to a comment I made some time ago, the shifter assembly still looks perfect - 

 

Cheers and happier model building 

Nick

 

Hi Nick...funny you should mention the steering column...see next update!!

 

You have quite taken to the shifter eh mate

 

Ron

[silver911]

22 hours ago, Bengalensis said:

 

Indeed, it happens more or less every time I build something. I suppose it's part of the game, and it doesn't seem to stop me from building new models. Or I never learn...

Never mind, what you have achieved is looking lovely, as always!

 

Certainly seems to be the case...so must be a part of the game

 

Thank you for kind words.

 

Ron

[silver911]

Following on from Nick's comment about the steering column...it was this very part that caused the next 'headache'.

What should have been a simple case of joining the steering wheel to the shaft ended up in twenty hours of pure mayhem!

To start...whilst checking the fit and clearance of said steering wheel...the top universal joint came apart and...as usual...it all went downhill from there 🤬

Long story short...I ended up fabricating a new steering column (ali tubes)...boss (from a machined fitting)...and locating block for the UJ (from wood!)...and the cut off UJ from the original kit part.

Whilst it does look better than the original bit of plastic...it's a headache I could well have done without...

 

 

Mounted to steering wheel...keeping the kit UJ separate for easier final assembly...

 

 

A few pics of it all finally together...

 

 

Now it remains to fit all the cables from dials and steering wheel...in readiness for the engine to join the chassis.

 

to be continued.......

[Stickframe]

Well shoot! I hope I didn't predicate the problems!  Despite the challenges, your solution looks great! I like the scale use of real metal anyway, it has a good look 😀

[silver911]

27 minutes ago, Stickframe said:

Well shoot! I hope I didn't predicate the problems!  Despite the challenges, your solution looks great! I like the scale use of real metal anyway, it has a good look 😀

 

Just one of those coincidences Nick

 

Have to say I was pleased to get that result...and using real metal has some advantages...strength and appearance being the main two.

 

Cheers for comments mate 👍

 

Ron

[Codger]

4 hours ago, silver911 said:

 

I did try some BMF before committing to the PE...however...it's so easily damaged...plus it would not accept any of my techniques...no doubt ok for 'showroom'...and a valid option for some situations.

 

 

Admittedly a crappy shot but here is some BMF I distressed with 4-0 steel wool for this ali panel. The reflection is evident as a subtle sheen rather than chrome like shine: Perfect for a wheel well I thought:

 

[silver911]

1 hour ago, Codger said:

Admittedly a crappy shot but here is some BMF I distressed with 4-0 steel wool for this ali panel. The reflection is evident as a subtle sheen rather than chrome like shine: Perfect for a wheel well I thought:

 

 

I have to say that has worked very well Mr C

 

[Redstaff]

Looking good Ron 😁

That cockpit detailing is superb and you've made a great recovery with the steering column 😁

Every time I manage to get time to browse there is so much progress made and tips to learn from 

Ian

[silver911]

1 hour ago, Redstaff said:

Looking good Ron 😁

That cockpit detailing is superb and you've made a great recovery with the steering column 😁

Every time I manage to get time to browse there is so much progress made and tips to learn from 

Ian

 

Hello mate...glad you like the look of progress

 

Steering column did kind of benefit from the making of it in metal after the breakage of kit part I guess...'serendipity' at play!

 

Waiting for payday so I can get some paint for next batch of parts...then it's time to mate the engine/gearbox to the chassis 😱

 

Thanks for comment Ian...always appreciated.

 

Ron

[silver911]

With some spare time...whilst waiting for payday to get some paint...after having received a few PM's asking about my use of after market fittings...and the problems others were having with such fittings...I thought it might be helpful to share some of my tips and methods.

These are not exhaustive or exclusive by any means...and for those of you that already use them...or have other methods...please feel free to ignore...or share

 

Perhaps the most common error in using after market fittings and connectors...is using the wrong size cables and hoses...an example being the first picture...where the hose on the left...whilst fitting ok...is too small...the one on the right is correct for the fitting...

 

 

That's not to say you couldn't use the one on the left but...in reality...the collar is thin walled...with the hose fitting snugly inside it...and the one on the right gives the correct impression of doing just that.

 

By choosing a smaller fitting for the hose on the left...both hoses now look correct...

 

 

Another common problem...especially with resin fittings...is the size of the moulded connection pin...either too big or too small...if too big it can be shaved down...too small...and it is best replaced...in the pic I have used ali tube...

 

 

The main benefit being added strength...and it keeps the hose centred on the fitting...

 

 

Another option...is to create the collar from tube using metal or plastic...the trick here is to choose a size only slightly bigger than the hose...and to drill it out to accept the hose...which will leave the desired thin wall to the collar...

 

 

 

With tapered fittings the hose size will be more pronounced if it's too big...as the one on the left in the pic clearly shows...

 

 

The solution here is to cut off the fitting's locating stub...and replace it with a piece of brass rod (0.5mm)...which allows you to use the correct (smaller) hose for the fitting...

 

 

A good tip for hoses and tubing...is always to use a new blade to cut them...this gives you a smooth edge all round...without the often seen angle...where it doesn't meet the fitting around the whole circumference.

 

Another area of concern was with using after market 'braided' hoses...never easy due to their propensity for fraying when cut.

I use a few different approaches to this problem.

First...and simplest...thin CA applied to the end of the line before cutting...just a thin smear...as you don't want it to fill the core of the line.

Second method...a dressmakers pin...push the pointed end into the line...and apply CA to fix it in place...this now becomes your connecting pin to the drilled out fitting.

My favoured method by far...is to use a metal fitting over the end of the line...and then to insert the pin through the fitting into the line...which again gives you the mounting pin to the model part/location.

This method does require the removal of any moulded fiiting from the kit part...but is a much more satisfying solution to using braided lines IMHO...

 

 

I hope this is helpful to others...and would welcome any other methods you guy's use.

 

Ron

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited May 7, 2021 by silver911
added text

[Codger]

This is hands-down the finest explanation of professional detailing I've ever seen on the forum. This takes 'realism' rocketing beyond 'the next level' we like to seek. Thank you Ron for a detailed, concise presentation. This is a big reason for the popularity of your superb 312T build. It's an open book of knowledge to those who try harder.

Unfortunately manufacturers of even expensive 'top line' kits fail miserably to provide this type of accuracy. So the aftermarket has found a thriving niche among the few builders willing to up their skill levels for more realism.

I have tried to explain in the Meng thread that the provided parts are inadequate to those that seek detailing. Apparently to no avail. And it has failures beyond just the plumbing fittings. You have not been hampered by the compromises even Tamiya has brought, by diligent work and hands-on experience. 

Here is another example of what real fittings and hoses look like - exactly as you portray above.

Thanks for this excellent service Ron.

C

[silver911]

Many thanks for kind words Mr C...and I do like that pic as an illustration...nice one 👍

 

If it helps others it has served it's purpose 🙃

 

Ron
 

[silver911]

A very small update...

In preparation for mating the engine and chassis...it will need it's 'boots' to sit on...so time to get the wheels sorted.

Once primed and given a base colour of pure silver...I had to decide on how to give them a polished look.

I recently found a product I brought some years back but never got around to using...'Chrome Buffing Powder'...

 

 

It's by far the finest/softest powder I have ever come across!

You can apply it by brush...cotton bud (Q tip)...sponge or finger...whilst it doesn't give anything like a 'chrome' effect finish...it does impart a very nice metallic sheen.

I chose to apply it with a soft brush and a gentle buffing action...it's very difficult to capture the effect...the wheel on the left has been buffed with it...very subtle...but effective I think...

 

 

With that done...I added some more lettering to the tyres...painted the gold centres...then added bead locks...weights and valves...

 

 

I have kept the 'weathering' to a minimum for now...will look at them again once on the chassis.

 

to be continued.......

 

[rjfk2002]

Thanks for the hose and connector tutorial! I for one didn’t appreciate how it is supposed to look. Very helpful to see the side by side comparison

[silver911]

2 hours ago, rjfk2002 said:

Thanks for the hose and connector tutorial! I for one didn’t appreciate how it is supposed to look. Very helpful to see the side by side comparison

 

Hello stranger...long time no hear

 

Glad tips and tricks for fittings/hoses helped.

 

Ron

[kpnuts]

I love those powers Ron I use a similar product from Germany and it has hundreds of other uses (other than its intended use that is) one for instance is put a little on a brush and tap the brush around your brake drums and calipers, instant brake dust.

Great build mate as usual and thanks for the tips.

[Codger]

4 hours ago, silver911 said:

 

 

I have kept the 'weathering' to a minimum for now...will look at them again once on the chassis.

 

to be continued.......

 

Big news to me that F-1 cars used bead locks back then - just like big tire drag cars. Your wheel/tire combo is beautifully rendered. Especially this close view of the rear sides. Maybe a bit more brake dust back here is all. The whole presentation will gain immense credibility from these additions.

Also like the gold used. Pale and subtle but clearly different from rims.

[silver911]

4 hours ago, kpnuts said:

I love those powers Ron I use a similar product from Germany and it has hundreds of other uses (other than its intended use that is) one for instance is put a little on a brush and tap the brush around your brake drums and calipers, instant brake dust.

Great build mate as usual and thanks for the tips.

 

It is good stuff...and I know there are a few others available nowadays...but this is the first time I have used anything like it...but not the last...as it polishes and...slightly blackens ali tube...so ideal for rear roll bar 😉

 

Cheers for comment mate...and glad tips were useful

 

Ron

[pg265]

Hi,

 

Awesome wheels Ron!

 

Bead locks were introduced after Jochen Rindt fatal accident due to a tire problem. 
 

The Ferrari and around the T-serie era, High pressure fittings and hoses were from Superflexit. It was different than the well known military  A/N fittings.

Robert Bentley, from RBmotion, makes beautiful machined and anodized Ferrari fittings  

 

Pascal

 

[Stickframe]

Glad to see the "Ron Show" moving right along! 😁  Wheels look great 

 

Cheers

Nick 

[silver911]

7 hours ago, Codger said:

Big news to me that F-1 cars used bead locks back then - just like big tire drag cars. Your wheel/tire combo is beautifully rendered. Especially this close view of the rear sides. Maybe a bit more brake dust back here is all. The whole presentation will gain immense credibility from these additions.

Also like the gold used. Pale and subtle but clearly different from rims.

 

I just go where the ref pics take me Mr C...it did puzzle me as to what the raised areas on the front wheels Tamiya moulded were for in the initial prep of the wheels...a bit of digging and all was revealed so to speak...so had to be added...as well as the unusual valve placement!

Glad you like the results as the colours are quite difficult to match with so many variations depicted.

 

Ron

[silver911]

12 hours ago, pg265 said:

Hi,

 

Awesome wheels Ron!

 

Bead locks were introduced after Jochen Rindt fatal accident due to a tire problem. 
 

The Ferrari and around the T-serie era, High pressure fittings and hoses were from Superflexit. It was different than the well known military  A/N fittings.

Robert Bentley, from RBmotion, makes beautiful machined and anodized Ferrari fittings  

 

Pascal

 

 

Pleased you like the wheels Pascal 👍

 

Nice info about bead locks and fittings...very interesting.

 

I was aware of the RBMotion fittings...but have tried to do this build using my existing stocks of fittings etc. ...as funds would not allow for such extra cost...a shame...and would have been a nice touch.

 

Thanks for comment mate

 

Ron

 

 

[silver911]

11 hours ago, Stickframe said:

Glad to see the "Ron Show" moving right along! 😁  Wheels look great 

 

Cheers

Nick 

 

Well...there's a short 'intermission' now Nick...have had to order some new mesh for the trumpets (velocity stacks)...as the ones I made just don't look right...and trumpets need to be fitted before mating engine and chassis.

 

Glad you like the 'boots'...quite pleased with them myself

 

Cheers for tuning in 😎

 

Ron

[Pouln]

Needed some time to catch up with your progress, Ron.

Fantastic detailing as always.

Thanks for you explanation on fittings. Will be most helpful for many of us (including me).

About powders, there are many types of powders to be found on the net. 

Sometime ago I was thinking about mother of pearl that is sometimes used in car dashboards (MB 500/540K?).

In the ladies department on the net there are nail pearlescent powders that might help creating this.

The stuff costs next to nothing on Ali.

 

[silver911]

5 hours ago, Pouln said:

Needed some time to catch up with your progress, Ron.

Fantastic detailing as always.

Thanks for you explanation on fittings. Will be most helpful for many of us (including me).

About powders, there are many types of powders to be found on the net. 

Sometime ago I was thinking about mother of pearl that is sometimes used in car dashboards (MB 500/540K?).

In the ladies department on the net there are nail pearlescent powders that might help creating this.

The stuff costs next to nothing on Ali.

 

 

Cheers for compliment Poul

 

I am not a big fan of 'powders'...usually make any I need from ground down pastels...but yes...there are some intriguing types out there...mother of pearl sounds interesting...but nail powders need UV sealing I believe...not sure how that would work on plastic.

 

Regards

 

Ron