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1/12 312T 1975


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3 hours ago, Codger said:

Yeesh... more dangly hoses than a Ridley Scott sci-fi movie. :wicked: You will definitely need rehabilitation in a quiet country side asylum. But just plain brilliant and true to life.

That torque wrench is also brilliant but looks lonely. B)

I'm serious now; that is a model unto itself. I would build the whole rest of the car and display it alongside this on its wheels, not stands. That way nothing here is concealed and you still get the natural beauty and brawn of the race car. Maybe a small engine hoist with chains nearby....:devil:

 

And still a fair few more hoses/cables/pipes etc. to come Mr C 😱

More tools are in progress to keep the torque wrench company 😉

I must admit I have begun to consider how I will display the finished car...it's quite interesting how many options there are 🤔

 

As ever...your comments and support are much appreciated.

 

Ron

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1 hour ago, Stickframe said:

HI Ron,

 

Short of sounding like a broken record, what I think is most interesting about this work is the contrast between textures (In addition to the obvious overall project), in that as a viewer, you can tell what is representing cast, machined, or other surfaces, plus of course the weathering throughout!   And, when this is all done, I'm sure you'll pluck that brass eyebolt out of the torque wrench and reuse it on a kit!

 

Cheers

Nick

 

Hello mate...and very pleased the build still provides some points of interest to you :)

 

In trying to create the subtle differences between metals and surface finishes...it becomes a challenge to blend them all together...having said that...such challenges are what drives us on.

'Weathering'...at least for me...is all about 'balance'...indeed...after I posted the last update today...I noticed a few areas that need attention in that respect...damn! 

 

Nice one for comments Nick...always appreciated.

 

Ron

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Ron, the level of realism you achieve is unbelievable. With that pallet underneath there is nothing that tells me that this isn’t the real thing (unless it would be the missing text on the fuel hoses) .... No, don’t even think of replicating those too.

 

Fantastic work as always. Hats off...

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1 hour ago, Pouln said:

Ron, the level of realism you achieve is unbelievable. With that pallet underneath there is nothing that tells me that this isn’t the real thing (unless it would be the missing text on the fuel hoses) .... No, don’t even think of replicating those too.

 

Fantastic work as always. Hats off...

 

As it happens Poul...today I found some 1 mm heat shrink in white...with letters!...but don't worry...I am not about to risk what I have achieved so far for such a minor detail :)

Regards the level of realism...it's really just a case of mimicking...which my technique allows me to do to good effect.

 

Your comments and support are very much appreciated as always.

 

Ron

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Poul makes a good point and thankfully, you ascribe to it.

I think a major key to an outstanding model is knowing when to stop. If adding certain detail or color risks damage to satisfactory previous work, I've learned that 'less is more'. That's not cutting corners, that's being sensible.

A successful model always allows further successes on the next because of the experienced gained.

This model as it is would surely make a Ferrari technician think twice about it being a model.

 

 

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2 hours ago, Codger said:

Poul makes a good point and thankfully, you ascribe to it.

I think a major key to an outstanding model is knowing when to stop. If adding certain detail or color risks damage to satisfactory previous work, I've learned that 'less is more'. That's not cutting corners, that's being sensible.

A successful model always allows further successes on the next because of the experienced gained.

This model as it is would surely make a Ferrari technician think twice about it being a model.

 

 

 

I would agree that we all have to draw a line at some point in any build...excess does not always equate with success...indeed...where my passion for reality is concerned...it must always be balanced with practicality.

Another perspective I would offer is this...in any build where high levels of finish and detail are a major factor...the builder will refine and improve certain aspects of the subject...with the aim of creating something unique to him/herself...whether it's in the painting...the detailing...or simply the standard of assembly...however...if these aspects are not in balance...the whole project will fail.

For me personally...it's this 'balance' that is hardest to achieve...and must constantly be reviewed throughout the build...and must include the final presentation for display...that said...the most important aspect must remain the enjoyment.

 

Just my personal insight onto my world of modelling.

 

Cheers Mr C

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Well stated and another excellent point. The overall goal and balance should always be kept in mind.

You do that better than most of us. I remember the Ducati...

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On 2/27/2021 at 11:06 PM, Codger said:

Well stated and another excellent point. The overall goal and balance should always be kept in mind.

You do that better than most of us. I remember the Ducati...

 

This 'balance' has to be created before starting a build...and begins with having the subject to hand...then I collect as many ref pics as I can...with the next step being to compare said pics with the kit instructions and the parts themselves...highlighting areas that will need or can be modified or detailed further...and will alter the assembly stages to encompass these mods and any added detail...to avoid repeated handling and damage.

Next I make notes on paint finishes with regard to the metals used on the 1:1...and note ideas on replicating them.

Lastly...I create a 'build diary' on the computer...so that I can have any relevant notes or pictures in front of me at all times.

I suspect that this is no different to many others way of working...and lays the groundwork for a 'balanced' build from day one.

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Having put the engine aside for now...time to return to the chassis/tub...with the rear suspension in place...when the time comes to mate the main components it will need the front end in place in order to stand on it's wheels.

With this in mind I have started on the front suspension sub frame...for such a small sub assembly there are a lot of parts...with many of them needing to be 'movable' after others are glued/fixed...in an area 40mm x 13mm.

Along with all these parts there are 3 master cylinders with 2 connections on each at the back of the SF...and 1 at the centre front with 3 connections for the brake lines...with the ones for the brakes being hard lines that connect to the left and right braided lines from the calipers.

I have assembled the 4 master cylinders...and replaced the kit stubs  with metal fittings...using 0.6 mm Nickel Silver rod for the brake lines themselves...it was a case of creating a path for each inside the sub frame...keeping clear of areas that other parts have to go into.

Each of the left and right lines have fittings to connect to braided lines when the hubs/calipers are assembled to the sub frame...

 

IMG-6386.jpgIMG-6387.jpgIMG-6388.jpgIMG-6389.jpg

 

Now it's a case of bringing all the other parts for the sub frame and suspension together and mating it all to the chassis.

 

Ron

 

to be continued.......

Edited by silver911
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Following on from last update...and time to get front end sorted...a lot of juggling with an assortment of parts...and still a large number of other bits still to assemble to complete it...

 

IMG-6390.jpgIMG-6391.jpgIMG-6392.jpgIMG-6393.jpgIMG-6394.jpgIMG-6395.jpgIMG-6396.jpgIMG-6397.jpgIMG-6398.jpgIMG-6400.jpg

 

Need to fix the top arms to the shocks next...no easy matter as the kit solution is totally unworkable!...and connect two further linkages.

Then it remains to assemble the front hubs...brakes...air scoops and steering linkage...plus the braided brake lines etc.

 

to be continued.......

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Goooooood!!

Great update and great progress on the Maranello Flat 12 Monster!

Nice piping session.

 

Pascal

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Another same old boring update - perfection everywhere you look. :wall:

When are you gonna show us scratches, dust, glue fingermarks - LINT for Lord's sake!! I can buy a Haynes manual or such if I want to see perfect T 312's. :weep:

Please take up knitting or something instead of showing us what perfection in modeling is and how to achieve it.

That's a cool little gray 'stealth' workstand though.....:worthy:

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2 hours ago, pg265 said:

Goooooood!!

Great update and great progress on the Maranello Flat 12 Monster!

Nice piping session.

 

Pascal

 

Hi Pascal...and thank you for stopping by :)

So glad you like the progress.

 

Cheers

 

Ron

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15 hours ago, Codger said:

Another same old boring update - perfection everywhere you look. :wall:

When are you gonna show us scratches, dust, glue fingermarks - LINT for Lord's sake!! I can buy a Haynes manual or such if I want to see perfect T 312's. :weep:

Please take up knitting or something instead of showing us what perfection in modeling is and how to achieve it.

That's a cool little gray 'stealth' workstand though.....:worthy:

 

Sorry it's become somewhat boring to watch an old git struggling Mr C...and I can honestly assure you...far from perfect 🤬

Rest assured...all the imperfections are there to behold 😱

Sorry...but this modelling lark is all I know...so your stuck with me a while longer 😇

As for the work-stand...been thinking about a suitable colour to spray it for a while now...suggestions welcome?

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On 22/01/2021 at 12:20, silver911 said:

 

Thanks Chris...a lot more work to do on finishes...but pleased with it so far :)

 

A tip for you...when airbrushing different shades over one another you want to keep it subtle...best way to do this...increase the distance between AB and parts ( say from 3 inches to 6 ) and move the AB across it faster...this is to prevent you completely covering the previous colour...and will give you much more subtle blends...also...do this 'wet on wet'...to allow the colours to bleed into one another...or you can let it dry over night and follow the next tip...

If you want a slight 'texture' to the appearance...drop the pressure slightly ( 12 down to 8 ) which will cause the AB to spatter...meaning you will get tiny dots of paint on the surface...giving a texture (cast) look to the paint...this can be done dry or wet.

 

Hope that's useful to you.

 

Ron

 

 

 

Just catching up on this thread. Reading start to finish like a book. I won’t need a bookmark though....!
 

this is really useful info for me. Apologies if this question has been asked/answered later on. I think one mistake I made doing this in my tests was not doing it wet. How wet is wet? Usually paints airbrushed (no experience of AK) are tack dry within about 10 mins - how long do you wait for the shading coat? Bearing in mind it usually takes about 5 mins to flush the airbrush out well and remove the needle, clean the aperture etc and re assemble

 

 

Edit: also where did your source the springs used to mount the exhaust to the gearbox mounting points? I was thinking of doing the same on my build but didn’t know what size, tension or diameter of spring I would need

 

thanks

 

Andy

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8 hours ago, A_S said:

Just catching up on this thread. Reading start to finish like a book. I won’t need a bookmark though....!
 

this is really useful info for me. Apologies if this question has been asked/answered later on. I think one mistake I made doing this in my tests was not doing it wet. How wet is wet? Usually paints airbrushed (no experience of AK) are tack dry within about 10 mins - how long do you wait for the shading coat? Bearing in mind it usually takes about 5 mins to flush the airbrush out well and remove the needle, clean the aperture etc and re assemble

 

 

Edit: also where did your source the springs used to mount the exhaust to the gearbox mounting points? I was thinking of doing the same on my build but didn’t know what size, tension or diameter of spring I would need

 

thanks

 

Andy

 

Glad you find the info useful Andy...I have tried to include as much insight into my techniques as possible but it's difficult to cover every aspect...so feel free to ask any questions you need to.

 

With regard to working wet on wet with acrylics...it refers to the fact that...although acrylics are touch dry almost instantly...they are not fully dry for a few hours...hence they remain 'open' for that time...and will still 'bleed' into another colour which is applied over the first.

Indeed...I have applied several colours over each other to make use of this in getting soft gradations between each.

 

Giving exact times is difficult but...as an example...the main block of the 312T was given 3 mist coats of the base shade...with five minutes between each coat...then...and this is another tip for you...just flush the AB through with some acrylic thinners...you don't need to fully strip the AB down...unless of course you have been having problems (although you shouldn't be with these paints)...simply because any slight remains of the previous colour will soon be blended in once you start spraying or...simply spray onto some paper before going onto the part.

 

It's important to remember though...each subsequent colour is only applied as a mist coat...you are not trying to cover all of the previous colour...as this would ruin the effect of the blending of shades...and would simply give you a different overall colour.

 

Also...bear in mind my previous reasons for varying the distance/speed and psi...which is done to enhance the subtlety of the effect and appearance of texture etc.

 

I hope the above is helpful in answering your question.

 

As for the springs...https://www.hiroboy.com/112_ExhaustMuffler_Springs_cw_Hooks_20pcs_HD070021--product--3207.html

 

You will need to adjust length and spread to suit your particular exhaust pipes.

 

 

Ron

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Work continues on the front end...a lot of awkward assembly with bits that did not want to play nicely!

One thing I have done...which does not represent the 1:1...is the top fixing of the shocks...the kit part for which is minuscule...and was replaced with a cut down 1.4 mm bolt for strength.

There are some more details to add...and a lot of touching up/detail painting to be done...

 

IMG-6401.jpgIMG-6406.jpgIMG-6407.jpg

 

Whilst waiting for glues to set I went ahead with the hubs/discs/calipers and air ducts...again...there is more detailing and painting to be done before I fit them to the arms etc.

 

IMG-6408.jpgIMG-6409.jpgIMG-6410.jpg

 

to be continued.......

Edited by silver911
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Ron, your pictures are again overflowing with reality. You can state many times your work is imperfect and I guess you are right. But you are the only one who can see that.

To me your work is really looking wonderful. Keep the show rolling. I love it.

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The work is imperfect and that’s the beauty of it. Nothing in real life is uniform and that’s why this looks so realistic! If it were perfect and exactly how you imagined it, I.e by its nature of being imperfect, even to how you imagined it adds a level of reality.

 

thanks for the tips will be testing tonight and needed an excuse to make an order from hiroboy! 😛

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7 hours ago, Pouln said:

Ron, your pictures are again overflowing with reality. You can state many times your work is imperfect and I guess you are right. But you are the only one who can see that.

To me your work is really looking wonderful. Keep the show rolling. I love it.

 

Appreciate your comment Poul...trust me...from where I sit...there are many obvious faults to see...most of which will be corrected for the next update 😉

 

Show will go on :)

 

Ron

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