Jump to content

1/12 312T 1975


Recommended Posts

12 hours ago, Redstaff said:

Looking good Ron :) 

I must admit, my go to metal paints now is the Vallejo Metal colour range, they seem to spray and brush paint really well, although I have never tried the "wet multi coat shading" that you have done yet,

I usually just use a base colour and washes. But I'm going to give your method a go when I get chance :) 

 

Ian

 

Cheers mate :)

Vallejo Metal Colour was my primary paint for a few years and...TBH...it was the cost of replacing them that was the deciding factor...they have really gone up in price since I started using them...with the cost of the AK's being 40% less...and the good reviews...decision made.

I prefer using multi shading...gives more depth IMHO.

I never use all over washes...very difficult to fully control the results...which is why I use oil paints and dry brushing...generally...if a part has a lot of fine detail or very deep/complex casting...I will use a pin wash only for selected areas to increase the contrast.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have started to lay in some oils shades on various parts...keeping it fairly subtle to reflect the cleanliness common to Ferrari's in my ref pics...as well as the ali shades...I have layered in a base for the 'bronze' on some areas...

IMG-6254.jpgIMG-6255.jpgIMG-6256.jpgIMG-6258.jpgIMG-6256.jpgIMG-6259.jpg

 

For the gearbox I used just two shades of ali...as the 1:1 appears much lighter than the main block in my refs...

IMG-6249.jpgIMG-6250.jpgIMG-6251.jpgIMG-6252.jpgIMG-6253.jpg

 

Next up...I have started to lay in shades on the brake ducts...they were first airbrushed with Tamiya Clear Yellow and Orange...once dry I then stippled on yellow and brown shades of transparent oils...once dry I will add further colours and some pastels for dust...and finish off the outside with a mist coat of 'Klear'...

IMG-6273.jpgIMG-6285.jpgIMG-6287.jpgIMG-6290.jpg

 

As always...let me know your thoughts please.

 

Ron

 

to be continued.......

Edited by silver911
  • Like 8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You've nailed virtually all of it. Especially like the block and I'd go easy towards the bronze. It's very like the snaps I've seen of engines not in the car. I've said before - this is a clinic. Wish I could do my own all over again using these methods. But all my engine-out references show painted,  greasy old lumps. Quite a difference from the subtle methods used here.

Now I'd enlarge that hole in the flywheel end, fill the block with sand, adding the one element this realism lacks - weight. MFH engines have this charming feature....:devil:

 

  • Like 2
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

-and I forgot to add. What Ron is doing is the most difficult type of finish to replicate - nearly new and lightly used castings. It's far easier to make leaky,  grungy messes with washes and powders to simulate neglect and hard use. :worthy:

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Codger said:

You've nailed virtually all of it. Especially like the block and I'd go easy towards the bronze. It's very like the snaps I've seen of engines not in the car. I've said before - this is a clinic. Wish I could do my own all over again using these methods. But all my engine-out references show painted,  greasy old lumps. Quite a difference from the subtle methods used here.

Now I'd enlarge that hole in the flywheel end, fill the block with sand, adding the one element this realism lacks - weight. MFH engines have this charming feature....:devil:

 

 

I have several refs showing very faded 'bronze'...with the underlying ali showing through...(an example being)...

12.jpg

 

It's this finish that I am aiming for...which will need both oils and acrylics to achieve.

 

I am not sure that the kit suspension can withstand the weight of the block being filled with sand...on top of all that PE 😱🤔

 

3 hours ago, Codger said:

-and I forgot to add. What Ron is doing is the most difficult type of finish to replicate - nearly new and lightly used castings. It's far easier to make leaky,  grungy messes with washes and powders to simulate neglect and hard use. :worthy:

 

You are exactly right Mr C...subtle finishes require a lot of restraint...tempting as it always is to add just that little bit more...until you suddenly arrive at a scrapyard finish instead 😖

 

Cheers for comments and support :)

 

Ron

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very realistic Ron. That last picture of the 1:1 block, yours matches it perfectly. Like Chas mentioned, it is far easier to overdo it than to keep it subtle. 

Great stuff.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, PROPELLER said:

Stunning effects! Very realistic looks easy, but behind real skills... that I don't have!
Congrats  RON.

Dan.

 

Thanks Dan :)

Honestly...anyone can replicate these finishes with a little practice...it has only taken me 30 years 🤣

Seriously though...today's ranges of metallics will get you 75% of the way there straight from the bottle...a 100% if you want 'showroom'...I just enjoy taking things that bit further.

 

Regards

 

Ron

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Ron,

 

I think it's really interesting to see how you've been able to match/illustrate texture over the color base.  It is clearly evident, but not overpowering - so it looks like a casting, and not a non-slip surface texture (like the decks on an armored vehicle) - looks great.  You are making it tempting to leave 1/20 in the past!  That said, I will try this.  I use the Vallejo Metal Color, which is very fine, so might be able to achieve, or at least try to achieve your base color method.  Then....attempt the oils, at least on the large surface areas.   Looking forward to your next update!

 

Cheers and stay well 

Nick

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Pouln said:

Very realistic Ron. That last picture of the 1:1 block, yours matches it perfectly. Like Chas mentioned, it is far easier to overdo it than to keep it subtle. 

Great stuff.

 

Still a fair bit more to do on the metals Poul...then a lot of details to bring out with the fixtures and fittings...just waiting for some 3/0 and 5/0 brushes to arrive...also...I need to decide on whether to replace some of the gearbox and engine 'blobs' with some real bolts.

 

Thanks for comment

 

Ron

Link to comment
Share on other sites

37 minutes ago, silver911 said:

also...I need to decide on whether to replace some of the gearbox and engine 'blobs' with some real bolts.

Definitely Ron, all that effort on the finish needs the final touches, the tiny details will catch the eye and make it even more convincing.

 

Chapeau so far.

 

Dave

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Stickframe said:

Hi Ron,

 

I think it's really interesting to see how you've been able to match/illustrate texture over the color base.  It is clearly evident, but not overpowering - so it looks like a casting, and not a non-slip surface texture (like the decks on an armored vehicle) - looks great.  You are making it tempting to leave 1/20 in the past!  That said, I will try this.  I use the Vallejo Metal Color, which is very fine, so might be able to achieve, or at least try to achieve your base color method.  Then....attempt the oils, at least on the large surface areas.   Looking forward to your next update!

 

Cheers and stay well 

Nick

 

That appearance of surface texture is my primary reason for using 2 or 3 shades over each other for the base metal...along with the fact that no cast metal is one colour over the entire surface...but a subtle blend of shades/hues.

In fairness to yourself Nick...you have no reason to leave 1/20 'in the past'...and certainly not with the results you are achieving...indeed...my techniques are just as applicable to smaller scales as they are to 1/12 and above.

Vallejo Metal Color is a superb range...whether applied by brush or AB...although...you will need to airbrush them to get the 'texture' effect...and enhancing them with oils will work the same way in 1/20 as for 1/12.

 

Stay safe mate

 

Ron

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Coors54 said:

Definitely Ron, all that effort on the finish needs the final touches, the tiny details will catch the eye and make it even more convincing.

 

Chapeau so far.

 

Dave

 

Hi Dave...that would seem the logical thing to do...and...it just so happens...I have enough left in stock to do the gearbox completely...as well as the most visible on the main block...so I guess I will have to now :)

 

Cheers for comment

 

Ron

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've just had a wander through                t' tinternet and purchased a cheapish set of oil paints to have a go at some shading and tinting after being inspired. Like you say, you have no real control over washes, so with a bit of practice, I might be able to add a little more realism 😁 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Redstaff said:

I've just had a wander through                t' tinternet and purchased a cheapish set of oil paints to have a go at some shading and tinting after being inspired. Like you say, you have no real control over washes, so with a bit of practice, I might be able to add a little more realism 😁 

 

Hello mate...pleased your giving oils a try...I truly believe you will find them more controllable than acrylic or enamel washes...certainly more subtle as well.

Between this build and the RE20 I have tried to offer as many hints and tips as possible but...if you need any further guidance just give me a shout :)

Just remember...you only need some cheap white spirit...the so called 'artist' variety are a waste of money.

An old china saucer is the best pallet...or a wall tile...which you probably have plenty of from doing the kitchen.

 

Cheers

 

Ron

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Finally managed to get some half decent pics of progress...still playing with settings and backgrounds...but a lot better than previous :)

 

So...first up...main engine block...have added some casing bolts...and a new set of rocker cover bolts and the tie wire...I couldn't drill through the bolts as per the 1:1...so settled for looping the wire around each bolt...I think it creates the desired effect...

IMG-0140.jpgIMG-0141.jpgIMG-0135.jpgIMG-0136.jpgIMG-0137.jpgIMG-0138.jpgIMG-0139.jpg

 

From here I will start to add some other pieces that are ready...plus the already made hose fittings etc.

 

to be continued.......

 

  • Like 12
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Having posted the main engine block in the previous update...here is the other area I have been working on...the gearbox.

I have spent a lot of time adding real metal bolts all over it...bleed nipples on the callipers...fixing plates on the brake ducts...nickel silver hard lines and fittings...and getting the colour/shading as close to the 1:1 as I could...

IMG-0142.jpgIMG-0143.jpgIMG-0144.jpgIMG-0145.jpgIMG-0146.jpgIMG-0147.jpgIMG-0148.jpgIMG-0150.jpgIMG-0149.jpgIMG-0151.jpgIMG-0152.jpg

 

Lastly...a couple of small bits that will go on the main engine block shortly...

IMG-0155.jpgIMG-0156.jpgIMG-0157.jpg

 

With these and a number of other bits ready now...it should start to take shape quite quickly :)

 

to be continued.......

 

  • Like 10
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi,

 

Stunning job!

I really like this metallic shade, the calipers’s bolts and the brake fluid lines!

May I just suggest one point regarding the fluid line fittings?...

I think the lower fitting of the “T” might be upside down, the wide base  against the “banjo”.

 

Can’t wait to see more!

 

Pascal

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have to be honest with you Pascal...it took me four attempts to bend the hard line in one continuous piece...and yes...the two fittings meeting the banjo are round the wrong way...sadly...it would mean re-doing the whole line again from the start to correct this error...as the fittings won't slide around the bends now...and when making the line...I had to do it with the fittings on whilst the bends were made.

 

Appreciate the comment :)

 

Ron

Edited by silver911
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 minutes ago, pg265 said:

It really doesn’t matter Ron! ;)

This T gearbox is really awesome and this is just an insignificant detail.


Pascal

 

Unfortunately...it is going to annoy me now Pascal 😱...not your fault...just annoyed at myself for not spotting such an obvious mistake😡

 

Ron

  • Haha 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...