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Pz.Kpfw.38(t) Ausf.G


vytautas

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Hi guys, another unfinished project (sometimes it seems to me that it would be nice to finish something...).
Hobby Boss kit 80137 (old Tristar).
This is a great kit, better than a Dragon

 

 

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An interesting comparison between Jagdpanther and Pz.Kpfw.38 cannons.

 

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Vytautas

Edited by vytautas
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Thanks for the kind words.

2 hours ago, Stef N. said:

I don't know how you did it, and would really love to know


I use Tamiya XF paint.
I didn’t use a primer (it’s completely unnecessary because Tamiya paint adheres well to plastic anyway).

1) Very very dark gray paint with brown. Sorry, I can't specify colors because I mix all the shades myself.
2) Multiple layers of chipping fluid (Ammo Mig in this case)
3) Then a red paint similar to a German primer.
4) With water and a hard, very short-cut brush, scratch the surface of the red paint, especially in areas where bare metal should be visible if the top coat of paint is damaged.
5) Then a layer of glossy varnish.

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6) Chipping fluid.
7) I mix several shades of gray (I do this in medical syringes, very convenient, can be stored for a very long time, more convenient than in a bottle).
8 ) Very thin layer of heavily diluted light gray paint.
9) Similar to point 4), only more paint is left.
10) A thin layer of matt varnish.
11) Chipping fluid.
12) Darker gray paint
13) Similar to point 4), but it must already be similar to real scratches and damage to the paint layer.
14) I don't use varnish anymore
15) I clean the surface with an old toothbrush, scrub one area more, the other less, so I can get a much more subtle, uneven shine. This is not possible with varnish.
16) I will carefully scrub the areas where the decals will be glued with 1500 sandpaper
17) I do not use any varnish
18) I glue decals (use Micro-Sol and Micro-Set).
19) I do not use any varnish on decals
20) Because the decals are too thick, I sand them with 1500 or 2000 sandpaper. In some places, the decals scratch through and the paint begins to show
21) Then wash. I use oil paint with thinner. I add thinner to a flat jar and add some dark colors, but I don't mix the paint finally, so I can use different shades for even one line. I use a little brush and applying paint only in deep places, I try not to smear the surface. 
22) Then I use watercolor pencils to make more shades. I use dry pencils. If necessary smooth with a dry hard brush
23) For rust, I also mostly use pencils.
24) Then pigments for dust and dirt.
25) Wash again in some places, if necessary in light, dusty colors
26) Graphite B6 or B8 pencil in some places
27) I also use the Molotow Liquid Chrome marker somewhere.

 

Roughly so, I try to use as many different shades as possible. As many layers of partially rubbed paint are obtained, a surface microrelief is formed. The surface becomes similar to hot rolled steel. 

All tin fenders etc. were made of cheap, corroded steel. Armor steel with many alloying elements rusted much less. I really like these tanks because there are a lot of photos where they look completely rotten.

It may seem complicated here, but in reality, my method is simple enough.

 

Vytautas

 

Edited by vytautas
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