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Ships rigging


Ruttman
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Hi all,

 

This is my first ship model, a 1:350 scale HMS King George V.

I've pretty much finished now but I'm not quite sure how to start the rigging.

I've bought this infinity models lycra thread (linked at the bottom) but I'm not quite sure how to attach them

 

Any tips would be appreciated.

 

Cheers

Luke

 

https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/product/1-350-1-200-145ft-black-ship-rigging-medium-infini-model-ir-1101b?gclid=CjwKCAjw_sn8BRBrEiwAnUGJDjVAK61iW5KADrvvSen7vrTHArxa9Cec4ybUeSJOJppCC4Xnz_gP2hoCTMkQAvD_BwE)

bIMG-3122.jpg

 

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Hi Luke - since no-one else has picked this up I'll have ago.

Lovely, lovely build BTW.

It's probably too late now but it's worth thinking about usinig https://www.bobsbuckles.co.uk/ Bob's buckles that are tiny loops that you place in pre- drilled holes.  The WW1 boys use us them for Biplane rigging but they translate perfectly to ship modelling.  Threading your infini line through them probably requires an optivisor but it's a secure means of anchoring your line.  Working with Infini or Uschi /Mig ammo etc lycra threads has made rigging so much easier because it's elastic and will adhere to CA (superglue) comparatively easily.  

I use Loctite "Powerflex" Gel which is a lot easier to apply than the liquid variety.  You can use a cocktail stick to "place" the glue but a far superior method is to buy some acupuncture needles https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Altra-Plastic-Handle-Acupuncture-Needles-0-20-x-30mm/293638374266?hash=item445e36037a:g:CyQAAOSwyotfAwKS that make the placement sooooo much more precise.  One box will last forever.  I cut the end off ONE so that t's blunted and that delivers a slighlty larger "Glob".

 

The secret is to bring the thread to the glue and if possible allow it to touch end on ONLY once.  (easier said than done!)  Get some good quality tweezers, you cant go wrong with this ..."PIXNOR Precision Tweezers Set - 10 PCS ESD Tweezer Set, Anti-Static Stainless Steel Tweezers Kit Curved Tweezers for Craft, Jewelry, Electronics, Laboratory Work"   from Amazon (thanks to Crisp @Ex-FAAWAFU)  Put a little tension in the line but NOT a lot (It's VERY stretchy).  When one end is attached take it to the "insertion" (bit of anatomy training coming out here) point and attach end-on under minimal tension. If you can whilst it's touched move close and breathe out on it forcibly - the Glue bonds quicker under moisture.  Where attachment is really problematic you can use a CA accelerator that really needs a third hand/person to gently "touch" the joit with cocktail stick or Accu needle dipped in the accelerator.  If the atachment doesn't work first time, it's worth lopping a small piece of the end of the lycra thread because it sticks LESS well if it's already got CA glue on it. 

Lastly you need snippers.. These will do https://www.amazon.co.uk/Amtech-R0278-Curved-Micro-Scissor/dp/B00LQPZ170/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=curved+Micro+scissors&qid=1603532202&sr=8-3 or something like them - whilst keeping some tension and stretch on the thread cut as close to the "joint" as possible.  yo can use a fresh scalpel blade but the scissors are altogether better

Lastly it's worth getting a second "weight"/thickness of thread to add variety throughout the rigging.  For practical exampleos of all of the above, particularly using Bob's Buckels check out my HMS Kent Blog - you'll see how comparatively easy it was to do complicated Funnel stays by first having good anchor points

Sorry this is so long - and that's it from me - all my knowledge small as it is.  Seeing what some of the WW1ers achieve is mind boggling!!!

Best 

Rob

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49 minutes ago, robgizlu said:

Hi Luke - since no-one else has picked this up I'll have ago.

Lovely, lovely build BTW.

It's probably too late now but it's worth thinking about usinig https://www.bobsbuckles.co.uk/ Bob's buckles that are tiny loops that you place in pre- drilled holes.  The WW1 boys use us them for Biplane rigging but they translate perfectly to ship modelling.  Threading your infini line through them probably requires an optivisor but it's a secure means of anchoring your line.  Working with Infini or Uschi /Mig ammo etc lycra threads has made rigging so much easier because it's elastic and will adhere to CA (superglue) comparatively easily.  

I use Loctite "Powerflex" Gel which is a lot easier to apply than the liquid variety.  You can use a cocktail stick to "place" the glue but a far superior method is to buy some acupuncture needles https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Altra-Plastic-Handle-Acupuncture-Needles-0-20-x-30mm/293638374266?hash=item445e36037a:g:CyQAAOSwyotfAwKS that make the placement sooooo much more precise.  One box will last forever.  I cut the end off ONE so that t's blunted and that delivers a slighlty larger "Glob".

 

The secret is to bring the thread to the glue and if possible allow it to touch end on ONLY once.  (easier said than done!)  Get some good quality tweezers, you cant go wrong with this ..."PIXNOR Precision Tweezers Set - 10 PCS ESD Tweezer Set, Anti-Static Stainless Steel Tweezers Kit Curved Tweezers for Craft, Jewelry, Electronics, Laboratory Work"   from Amazon (thanks to Crisp @Ex-FAAWAFU)  Put a little tension in the line but NOT a lot (It's VERY stretchy).  When one end is attached take it to the "insertion" (bit of anatomy training coming out here) point and attach end-on under minimal tension. If you can whilst it's touched move close and breathe out on it forcibly - the Glue bonds quicker under moisture.  Where attachment is really problematic you can use a CA accelerator that really needs a third hand/person to gently "touch" the joit with cocktail stick or Accu needle dipped in the accelerator.  If the atachment doesn't work first time, it's worth lopping a small piece of the end of the lycra thread because it sticks LESS well if it's already got CA glue on it. 

Lastly you need snippers.. These will do https://www.amazon.co.uk/Amtech-R0278-Curved-Micro-Scissor/dp/B00LQPZ170/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=curved+Micro+scissors&qid=1603532202&sr=8-3 or something like them - whilst keeping some tension and stretch on the thread cut as close to the "joint" as possible.  yo can use a fresh scalpel blade but the scissors are altogether better

Lastly it's worth getting a second "weight"/thickness of thread to add variety throughout the rigging.  For practical exampleos of all of the above, particularly using Bob's Buckels check out my HMS Kent Blog - you'll see how comparatively easy it was to do complicated Funnel stays by first having good anchor points

Sorry this is so long - and that's it from me - all my knowledge small as it is.  Seeing what some of the WW1ers achieve is mind boggling!!!

Best 

Rob

This for the advice Rob, I think it’ll help a lot. 
I think it’s a brilliant idea to use Bob’s buckles but I’ll probably give it a miss for this model as it looks very fiddly and I expect I’ll end up either losing/ruining all the buckles or wrecking the masts with dodgy holes. 
I think I’ll buy all the other recommended products though.
Your HMS Kent looks brilliant by the way. 
 

cheers

Luke

 

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Hi Luke

When rigging my KGV I used a similar method to Rob but I did not use the buckles I use a small dab of CA on the point where the line is to go and attach to mast or railings and then you can paint over to add extra contact at the joint.

 

HTH

 

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beefy

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32 minutes ago, beefy66 said:

Hi Luke

When rigging my KGV I used a similar method to Rob but I did not use the buckles I use a small dab of CA on the point where the line is to go and attach to mast or railings and then you can paint over to add extra contact at the joint.

 

HTH

 

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beefy

thanks for the advice.
Using CA Sounds like a good idea, I think it’ll be easier than buckles so I’ll have a smaller chance of messing it up. 
 

Thanks

Luke

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