*Finished* RFI Coming Soon. Converting an ICM 1/48 Spitfire Mk.VII to a PR X

[mark.au]

Despite the solid and wholly sensible advice from among others @Troy Smith, I have used the ICM Mk.VII as my basis for this little project.  Why? because I had one, I've not long ago built an Eduard Mk. IX and I like a challenge

 

First, I had to gather the required bits and pieces; kit, canopy, lower engine cowl and carb intake, camera lenses and covers, five-spoke wheels; plus the kit needs some better exhausts, a prop and spinner, and decals/paint masks for the markings.  And references.  And patience/elbow grease.

 

Troy helped out immensely with references and I'm already indebted to him for that in this project.  To begin then...

 

The goal, one of only 16 PR X's produced.  I have a specific airframe in mind (not this one, a 541S airframe) but am not 100% decided on it yet;

 

 

The gathering...

 

 

I began with the cockpit which I built largely out of the box.  I'm 99% sure I'll finish this one - like most of my models - with the canopy closed.  Nevertheless, one must make a bit of an effort so I finished the cockpit with reasonable diligence.  I made a couple of changes here though; removed the gun site (and filled the blank space with a small piece of printed PE from the spares box); removed the headrest; removed the kit moulding of the cylindrical parts on the back of the headrest and replaced them with a piece of clear sprue to represent the silica crystal container for the pressurised cockpits; created the pressure bulkhead which goes in place of kit part B8; added a PE harness from the spares box (not correct but close enough for a closed canopy).  I also scribed the camera access panel on the starboard side of the fuselage, and drilled the camera hole on the port side, as well as began the panel line filling for the wings.  What else...  oh yes, I've filled the panel lines for the cockpit access flap.  The result;

 

 

 

Most of the panel line filling still requires attention to make it right, but it's a start.  I've gone some way down the assembly of the fuselage too, but not yet to the point of calling that done.

 

Let me know if you see any glaring mistakes here, or on the horizon.  Despite my somewhat cavalier attitude to the cockpit's accuracy, I care much more about the exterior (within the bounds of the kit's shape accuracy, of which I am aware but not included to fix) and want it to be a true reflection of a pressurised PR X.

 

Thanks for following along.

 

 

Edited November 21, 2020 by mark.au

[mark.au]

Work continues...  I last built an ICM Spitfire some years ago, and I don't remember it being quite as fiddly as this one is.  Perhaps it's the conversation activity skewing my recollection, perhaps I've gotten more picky, perhaps my expectations have increased.  Whatever the reason, it's been a bit of a haul the past week.

 

I've spent a bit of time on the fuselage and have cleaned up and test fitted the rear portion of the canopy using the vacform for Baracuda.  Next in the canopy area will be the cut and fit of the Lobelle canopy and the windscreen.  I'm using the kit part for the windscreen as the PR.X had the bullet proof panel in the front rather than the frameless PR wrap around style.  I've begun the work of fitting the lower engine cowl as well; the QuickBoost part was made for the Hasegawa kit and so doesn't fit the ICM kit very well, it's too short, basically.  I will end up grafting the kit part to the resin to ensure the best possible fit at both ends.

 

 

The bowser wing is more or less complete.  A lot of panel line filling, re-scribing and some repair and I'm happy with how the wings are at this point.  I've attached the camera fairings and the fairing over the wing tank fuel booster pumps.  The only remaining tasks on the wings are the breathers at the outboard end of the wing fuel tanks and their filler caps. 

 

 

I checked the wing to fuselage fit and found there's a dihedral problem to solve.  After shaving a bit of material from the mating surfaces I think it will be ok; I'll glue it under compression with some tape from wing tip to wing tip and that should secure the correct angles.  

 

No doubt there will some fixes required once I put an initial primer coat on it, but that's for then.  For now, I think I'm getting quite close to the end of the major assembly.

 

Question; in the image above of the factory fresh PR.X there's now antenna post - is this normal for a PR.X ?  The XI's and other marks all seem to have the post, why not the X ?

Edited October 24, 2020 by mark.au
Edit to fix the horrific grammar in the first draft!

[bigbadbadge]

This looks interesting,  The PRU blue Spitfires look fabulous .  Great start.

Chris

[mark.au]

1 hour ago, bigbadbadge said:

This looks interesting,  The PRU blue Spitfires look fabulous .  Great start.

Chris

 

Thanks.  Whether this is in fact going to be a PRU Blue aircraft is an upcoming decision; was it in fact the high altitude scheme of grey over blue like the Mk.VII's it was built with is the next question...?

Edited October 24, 2020 by mark.au
Typo

[mark.au]

I attached the wings and worked on the engine cowl today.  The Quickboost part didn’t fit the ICM kit so I had the graft the resin to the kit part.  Once the seams were filled and tested, I attached the carb intake.

 

 

The carb intake needs cleaning up and then I’ll re-scribe the lost details.  Not much left to do before painting, the most notable task being the Lobelle canopy.

[bigbadbadge]

Great grafting, looks good

Chris

[mark.au]

And finally, it’s time to paint.  I usually apply a basic pre-shade when doing a single colour scheme as a first step in building the texture for the finished effect.  The pre-shade isn’t picked up too well in the pic but it’s there, quite subtle as intended at point in the process.  This model represents an aircraft that saw several months of work, including a period where it wore D-Day stripes.  There’s plenty of work left in the underside but I’m very happy with the start, and to be painting at last.
 

 

The next time @Troy Smith recommends that I use virtually anything Other than the ICM kit as the basis for any Spitfire project, I’ll take more notice.

Edited October 29, 2020 by mark.au

[Col.]

Nice work Mark

[mark.au]

2 hours ago, Col. said:

Nice work Mark

Thanks Col.

 

I should have mentioned in the earlier post that the canopy is the ICM part temporarily attached as a mask for the cockpit.  The vacform canopy and rear clear element (what is that bit called??) shall be fitted later.

[jackroadkill]

This is looking great - how are you finding the kit in general?  I've got an ICM Beer Delivery in the stash and it doesn't look as tidy as this kit.

[mark.au]

2 hours ago, jackroadkill said:

This is looking great - how are you finding the kit in general?  I've got an ICM Beer Delivery in the stash and it doesn't look as tidy as this kit.

 

Thanks Jack.

 

The ICM is a good generic kit which can be built up into a lot of different marks and versions with more or less effort, depending on your willingness to do the work.  If you're building it out of the box, while it has some fiddly bits it produces a quite nice Spitfire in my opinion.  But, if you're looking for a lot of detail, the Eduard would be better; if you're looking for easy to build, the Tamiya or Hasagwa would be better; if you're looking for spot-on accuracy, I don't know if there's a perfect Spitfire out there, but perhaps the Tamiya again (I think).  The Airfix kits are across some of these criteria too, though I haven't built one so I cannot speak with any real authority on that.

 

The ICM kit has some minor shape issues, and the softness of the plastic makes it a bit more difficult to work with [for me].  Most of my angst with this build is due to the conversion though; the resin lower engine cowl wasn't made for the ICM kit so didn't fit (which created some follow-on issues with the wing to fuselage joint); and of course the generic wings needed a lot of work to convert to Bowser wings (as well as those wing-tips, perhaps the worst join in the entire kit).  

 

Lastly, the quality isn't perfect.  Some flash, some sink marks, some softness in detail on the parts.  Nothing fatal, sometimes irritating, all fixable (or replaceable, depending on your tolerances).

 

My advice is that if you have one, build it!  The price is certainly right and the result, while not shake and bake nor super-detailed-super-accurate, is a canvas that will end up as a nice looking plastic model of a Spitfire in the markings of your choice.  And make sure to share the journey here! 🙂

Edited October 30, 2020 by mark.au
Forgetfulness!

[jackroadkill]

11 hours ago, mark.au said:

 

Thanks Jack.

 

The ICM is a good generic kit which can be built up into a lot of different marks and versions with more or less effort, depending on your willingness to do the work.  If you're building it out of the box, while it has some fiddly bits it produces a quite nice Spitfire in my opinion.  But, if you're looking for a lot of detail, the Eduard would be better; if you're looking for easy to build, the Tamiya or Hasagwa would be better; if you're looking for spot-on accuracy, I don't know if there's a perfect Spitfire out there, but perhaps the Tamiya again (I think).  The Airfix kits are across some of these criteria too, though I haven't built one so I cannot speak with any real authority on that.

 

The ICM kit has some minor shape issues, and the softness of the plastic makes it a bit more difficult to work with [for me].  Most of my angst with this build is due to the conversion though; the resin lower engine cowl wasn't made for the ICM kit so didn't fit (which created some follow-on issues with the wing to fuselage joint); and of course the generic wings needed a lot of work to convert to Bowser wings (as well as those wing-tips, perhaps the worst join in the entire kit).  

 

Lastly, the quality isn't perfect.  Some flash, some sink marks, some softness in detail on the parts.  Nothing fatal, sometimes irritating, all fixable (or replaceable, depending on your tolerances).

 

My advice is that if you have one, build it!  The price is certainly right and the result, while not shake and bake nor super-detailed-super-accurate, is a canvas that will end up as a nice looking plastic model of a Spitfire in the markings of your choice.  And make sure to share the journey here! 🙂

 

Hi Mark,

 

Thanks for the run-down.  I've got two builds on the go at the moment, and have already planned the next one, but the Beer Delivery Spit might well be next on the list after that.  I'm not much of a rivet counter yet, but to be aware of any potential pitfalls in terms of glaring inaccuracies or build-killing faults is really helpful.

[mark.au]

Painting continues.  I’m using Vallejo Model Air and so far so good.  I’ve applied the base coat to the entire airframe now and started on the texturing and details.  I’ve settled on MD195 as my subject which was the most used of all 541 Squadron’s PR X’s, completing almost 50 sorties.  It joined the squadron in May ‘44 and completed its last operational sortie in February ‘45.  As it would have worn D-Day stripes between June and October ‘44 I’ve represented the fresher PRU paint where the stripes were painted over with a darker hue to the PRU Blue.

 

 

The topsides are still factory fresh, so to speak.  I’ll start work on those tomorrow with a plan to weather then a little more than the underside.

[Dunny]

Nice work Mark - I'm looking forward to seeing this come together!

 

Cheers,

 

Roger

[corsaircorp]

Nice job Mark,

I'm turning an Otaki Spit Mk VIII into a PR XI !!

You did great !! 

Sincerely.

CC

[corsaircorp]

On 10/29/2020 at 11:45 PM, jackroadkill said:

This is looking great - how are you finding the kit in general?  I've got an ICM Beer Delivery in the stash and it doesn't look as tidy as this kit.

Quite a good kit, right in dimension and shape,

BUT, Adjustment are approximative and there are sink marks...

Otherwise, I build 3 or 4 of it. 

Sincerely.

CC

[Troy Smith]

3 hours ago, mark.au said:

The topsides are still factory fresh, so to speak.  I’ll start work on those tomorrow with a plan to weather then a little more than the underside.

 

an idea of how PRU blue can fade, and weather.

P.R. Spitfire         1944. by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr

 

Spitfire 1944 by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr

 

SpitfirePR Mk. XI, 1944. by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr

 

Spitfire PR mk. XI  , 1945. by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr

 

Spitfire PR XI   Nov. 1943. by Etienne du Plessis, on Flickr

 

BUT, 541 was at Benson, which was a dedicated UK based PR base.  So more airframe care, some of the above are 2nd TAF planes. 

 

There is also this, outtake from the Spitfire 944 film,  which is great for getting a 'feel' of a working PR airframe.  

 

HTH

 

 

[mark.au]

9 hours ago, corsaircorp said:

Nice job Mark,

I'm turning an Otaki Spit Mk VIII into a PR XI !!

You did great !! 

Sincerely.

CC

Thanks CC, I’m keen to see how yours turns out too.

 

@Troy Smith, thanks for that, I hadn’t seen a couple of those pics before, and the video was really good to see, not jus5 for the Spitfire itself.

 

I’m confident on my plan for the more weathered upper surfaces except for the chalkiness of the finish.  I was planning to replicate that with an overspray of highly thinned light grey or off-white.  Any other ideas though( would be good to consider.

[corsaircorp]

4 minutes ago, mark.au said:

Thanks CC, I’m keen to see how yours turns out too.

 

@Troy Smith, thanks for that, I hadn’t seen a couple of those pics before, and the video was really good to see, not jus5 for the Spitfire itself.

 

I’m confident on my plan for the more weathered upper surfaces except for the chalkiness of the finish.  I was planning to replicate that with an overspray of highly thinned light grey or off-white.  Any other ideas though( would be good to consider.

You're welcome Mark,

For the chalky effect, I wolud try the Flory white wash...

Really easy to use stuff, See on my Stuka thread what is possible.

Of course, I tried to have the effect of a very worn Casein paint...

IMHO, flory will be a better and more effective way.

Just my penny.

CC

[mark.au]

5 hours ago, corsaircorp said:

For the chalky effect, I wolud try the Flory white wash...

Really easy to use stuff, See on my Stuka thread what is possible.

 

Hi CC; thanks for the tip, your Stuka looks great!  But, that's not quite the effect I'm going for.  

 

I've been at the airbrush again today and this is the result...

 

 

The pic does a reasonable job of showing what I've done.  I faded out the "original" (so to speak, as in factory applied) PRU Blue with progressively lighter and thinner applications of the original colour.  I only applied a little of this treatment to the areas of repaint over the D-Day stripes but worked it extensively on the outer wings, horizontal stabilisers and upper fuselage.  I was worked the fuselage sides progressively less the further down and blended that into the work I did on the underside yesterday.

 

 

I've had another idea on the replication of the chalkiness; making the finish very flat indeed will I believe create that effect.  In the past a slight over-application of the final flat coat on other models has created a chalky result, this time I'll actually be looking for that.  If I over do it, it can always be recovered with a little gloss/satin application.  

 

To be frank though, I think I'm 95% of the way there already, I'm quite pleased with how the model looks right now and too much more will perhaps caricature the effect rather than replicate it.

 

I'm now going to set the model aside for a couple for days to set the paint completely (the only fault with [some] Vallejo Model Air paints is the time they take to properly set) and in the mean time complete the prop, undercarriage and start writing up the piece to accompany this model.

[SafetyDad]

Lovely subtle paint job there Mark.

Looking great!

 

 

SD

[corsaircorp]

Yeaaah !! Great effect, I got it now !

You're right with Valejo paints !!  

One day or even 2 are necessary to cure it thoroughly, 

But when the kit is on finish line, It's looooooong....

Well done Man !!

CC

 

[mark.au]

On 11/1/2020 at 8:52 PM, SafetyDad said:

Lovely subtle paint job there Mark.

Looking great!

 

22 hours ago, corsaircorp said:

Yeaaah !! Great effect, I got it now !

Well done Man !!

 

Thanks Gents.

 

CC, in a different thread you asked about Coopers Snooper; yes I have built it from the GWH kit in 1/48.  Here's a pic...

 

Edited November 2, 2020 by mark.au

[mark.au]

After a week away from the bench for a business trip - the first one of those since March - I go back to it today.  The Vallejo paint was well cured so I was able to mask directly for the wing walk lines and insignia.  I used Tamiya acrylic for these as their drying time is considerably quicker and I was able to get the clear coat on an hour later.  

 

 

 

 

This is curing right now and this evening I may even get a few decals such as the stencils and the fin flash (which I elected not to paint as I always seem to bugger those up).  After that, a bit of weathering for the grime and selected panels as well as the control surfaces.  Then, before sealing the decals with another clear coat I'm going to be stalled until the postman arrives with the grey number/letter decals for the aircraft’s serial number which I ordered a couple of weeks ago from Hannants.  

Edited November 8, 2020 by mark.au
..

[bigbadbadge]

Oh wow, this looks gorgeous, your paint fading looks very effective, great work.

Chris