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Revell 1/72 Avro Lancaster B.I/B.III


Plumbum

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I have one coming in this week. It will be started as soon as the Airfix Lancaster is done. I know

I need to razor saw the wings and reset them at more of a dihedral, and also need to replace the

wheels. Is there anything else that will "pop right out at me"?---John

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1 hour ago, Jure Miljevic said:

Panels instead of rivet lines on the wings

 

If You are referring to small panels running perpendicular to the wingspan (in the direction of airflow), they look like they should be panels - judging from the photo below:

spacer.png

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There's a few things that need sorting. The dihedral as you say. Also, the engine radiator intakes are wrong. I managed to add some plasticard to get them looking more approximate. I'm not sure if you can get replacements for the Revell kit although the Hasegawa ones may fit??

 

This was the build, pg.2 covers the intakes

 

The main wheels are too big too so getting some replacements will be good.

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Just finished this kit, the upper turret isn't right. It sits too high from the fairing, which also doesn't seem to be quite the right shape. 

 

See thread discussing it here:

 

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Thanks, I'll be looking for after market improvement parts. I do have Airfix wheels and

a mid upper turret from an old mold 8000 series kit I might use. Most definitely the

wheels. What I really like about the Revell kit is the wing mounting. The new mold Airfix

I really am not keen on not being able to paint the wings before installation like on the

Airfix 8000 series kit and the Revell kit. I won't buy a new mold Airfix for that reason alone.---John

Iz5od0H.jpg

 

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33 minutes ago, Johnv said:

Thanks, I'll be looking for after market improvement parts. I do have Airfix wheels and

a mid upper turret from an old mold 8000 series kit I might use. Most definitely the

wheels. What I really like about the Revell kit is the wing mounting. The new mold Airfix

I really am not keen on not being able to paint the wings before installation like on the

Airfix 8000 series kit and the Revell kit. I won't buy a new mold Airfix for that reason alone.---John

Iz5od0H.jpg

 

The new Airix Lancastercan be built the "traditional" way. You need to cut the spars just inboard of the inner engine nacelles/wheel bays.  The wings and undercarriage can be built up and slipped over the remaining exposed spar ends when required.  The fit of wings to fuselage is excellent and requires very little to no filler at all.

Another "must fix" on the Revell Lancaster is the pilot's platform, seat and control column.  The platform is too low, too narrow and too long and the locations for seat and control column are too far aft. Talking of too far aft so is the forward upper escape hatch/ditching exit.

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Thanks, I am still looking at the intakes. The new Airfix below, white plastic do

look better than the old mold Airfix below, in black plastic. The old mold looks more

to my eye radiused along the vertical opening like a mark 10 Lancaster. The new

mold is almost straighter on the vertical like "Admiral Prune" images I have seen, more

of an early Lanc B.I or B.III.---John

MybCupn.jpg

1EunyMJ.jpg

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After allowing for the angle and the shadow, they look much the same to me.  However the earlier Airfix ones do seem to have too small an opening and this could usefully be widened, but the later ones have too squared an appearance with tighter corners than the original.  Perhaps an unwitting(?) compromise between standard and tropical?

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I really do not know. I guess we need a real good dead head on shot. I have seen

some with very radiused sides, almost ovals but those were museum birds. The

Admiral Prune looks to me to be more straight although I know it has a slight curve.

The Revell one is too wide and narrow, almost like a "smiley mouth". With all the new

Airfix's pluses there is still NO perfect model. I really dislike the oversized fuselage windows.

Oh well, dream on. ---John

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