Gordon J Posted October 18, 2020 Share Posted October 18, 2020 This was initially started a couple of years ago but I have the Covid-19 lockdown to thank for getting this one over the line. I've never really done a vignette or diorama but have always wanted to do so, and therefore a lot of what you see here was done as experiments and trials. The model used is the Tasca/Asuka British Sherman III and despite having the Mike Starmer book to hand and finding no fewer than three photographs of the actual tank, I still had to use to some creative guesswork in certain areas when applying the camouflage pattern. I have depicted the model in the light mud/blue black colour scheme of the Sicilian campaign but it is entirely possible that the original tank was counter shaded in dark green. The blue black pattern was brush painted on. The markings came from the kit but the roundel on the turret was replaced from an old aircraft sheet. Most of the stowage on the rear deck was stuff I had in my spares box. The figures are from Royal Model, Bronco, Ultracast and Hornet and after seeing Britmodeller user Bullbasket's Sherman Shelf Queen thread - https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235067170-another-shelf-queen-finished-sherman-lll/ - I decided to copy him and give my tank commander the same Hornet head he used. My one is nothing like as well painted though. This is my first time posting work to the Britmodeller forums so I hope you enjoy looking. 21 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpha Delta 210 Posted October 18, 2020 Share Posted October 18, 2020 Hi Gordon. Lovely vignette and Sherman. I wish that I could paint figures so well! Looking forward to seeing more of your work! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desert falcon Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 Looking great - keep posting your work please 👍 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullbasket Posted October 20, 2020 Share Posted October 20, 2020 That is a superb build. The A3 is very well done, and I really like the figures. Great job. John. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swralph Posted November 1, 2020 Share Posted November 1, 2020 This is a beauty. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted November 30, 2020 Share Posted November 30, 2020 What a fantastic piece of work, the painting is excellent congratulations sir 👏 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nimrod484 Posted May 2, 2021 Share Posted May 2, 2021 I’m interested in how you paint the faces of your figures They look ace. Can you share how you do it? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted May 2, 2021 Share Posted May 2, 2021 Hi Gordon. Managed to miss this the first time round so I am delighted to have come across it now. That really is a very impressive scene! Fantastic modelling and the figures really add to the great atmosphere!! Very well done. Kind regards, Stix 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon J Posted May 2, 2021 Author Share Posted May 2, 2021 8 hours ago, nimrod484 said: I’m interested in how you paint the faces of your figures They look ace. Can you share how you do it? Hi Nimrod, The way I paint the faces of my figures is based on the old Sheperd Paine process which involves making a basic flesh tone followed by a highlight and high highlight colour, and also a shadow and deep shadow colour. I use oils for my face painting but I start by undercoating in an acrylic flesh tone then paint the eyes as slits with a black enamel. I never try and paint the whites of eyes in 1/35 scale. The highlight and shadow colours are then painted into the appropriate areas of the face. For example the eye sockets, under the nose and chin will all receive the shadow colour. Areas like the cheekbones, nose and forehead will receive the highlight tone. These colours are then blended to try and ensure a smooth transition and taking care not to blend the colours together. After the initial highlight and shadow colours have been applied and blended, I then mix a high highlight and a deep shadow tone. These colours being painted into the previously applied highlight and shadow areas. For example the deep shadow will be inside the eye sockets, the chin and under the nose and lower lip. The high highlight being applied into the highlight areas of the cheekbones, forehead and chin. The highlight and high highlight colours get blended together and the same with the shadow and deep shadow colours. I will then blend in a pink into the lips and cheeks of the figures (see the photo of the tank commander as an example). If the above is confusing for you I will get you to look at the photo of the infantry soldier walking to the rear of the tank in the diorama. Look at his eye sockets which are painted in the deep shadow colour. The sides of his nose are in shadow, the top of his nose is in the high highlight. As we see under the nose on the part called the philtrum the colour is the deep shadow with a high highlight to the left and right of this area. His top lip is shadow and deep shadow, his lower lip is highlight and high highlight with a bit of pink. The crease beneath his lower lip is in a deep shadow colour and the chin is the highlight colours again. The secret is to make sure there is a strong contrast between the colours and to never get the deep shadow and high highlight colours mixed together or else the whole face will go grey. It also helps to realise that you are painting an area and not a thing. You have to realise when painting a figure you will spend many sessions on it and have to go back and touch up and correct and blend before you are happy with the end result. I know I did with the figures in my diorama. My advice would be to get an optivisor and some figures and just use them as practice and pretty quickly you will get a feel for it. Hope this helps (a bit). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadman Posted May 3, 2021 Share Posted May 3, 2021 (edited) 2 hours ago, Gordon J said: Hi Nimrod, The way I paint the faces of my figures is based on the old Sheperd Paine process which involves making a basic flesh tone followed by a highlight and high highlight colour, and also a shadow and deep shadow colour. I use oils for my face painting but I start by undercoating in an acrylic flesh tone then paint the eyes as slits with a black enamel. I never try and paint the whites of eyes in 1/35 scale. The highlight and shadow colours are then painted into the appropriate areas of the face. For example the eye sockets, under the nose and chin will all receive the shadow colour. Areas like the cheekbones, nose and forehead will receive the highlight tone. These colours are then blended to try and ensure a smooth transition and taking care not to blend the colours together. After the initial highlight and shadow colours have been applied and blended, I then mix a high highlight and a deep shadow tone. These colours being painted into the previously applied highlight and shadow areas. For example the deep shadow will be inside the eye sockets, the chin and under the nose and lower lip. The high highlight being applied into the highlight areas of the cheekbones, forehead and chin. The highlight and high highlight colours get blended together and the same with the shadow and deep shadow colours. I will then blend in a pink into the lips and cheeks of the figures (see the photo of the tank commander as an example). If the above is confusing for you I will get you to look at the photo of the infantry soldier walking to the rear of the tank in the diorama. Look at his eye sockets which are painted in the deep shadow colour. The sides of his nose are in shadow, the top of his nose is in the high highlight. As we see under the nose on the part called the philtrum the colour is the deep shadow with a high highlight to the left and right of this area. His top lip is shadow and deep shadow, his lower lip is highlight and high highlight with a bit of pink. The crease beneath his lower lip is in a deep shadow colour and the chin is the highlight colours again. The secret is to make sure there is a strong contrast between the colours and to never get the deep shadow and high highlight colours mixed together or else the whole face will go grey. It also helps to realise that you are painting an area and not a thing. You have to realise when painting a figure you will spend many sessions on it and have to go back and touch up and correct and blend before you are happy with the end result. I know I did with the figures in my diorama. My advice would be to get an optivisor and some figures and just use them as practice and pretty quickly you will get a feel for it. Hope this helps (a bit). This is an absolutely excellent post. Full of good advice that provides a reference for anyone painting figure faces, no matter whether you're a newbie or have a bit more experience. The Sherman is very well done as well...🙂 Edited May 3, 2021 by Cadman added a comment 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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