Blast from the past! Monogram 1/72 P-51B

[VT Red Sox Fan]

Opuss--this is looking great--those wheel wells are fantastic... I think you really conquered the well issue which is the weakest part of the kit, and the aluminum finish really sets it off.  FWIW, my vote is the red gas caps, but it is such a minor point given you aircraft has been in service for a while & they could have been painted over.  I have to say the finish is immaculate--your weathering came out perfect and I truly believe your efforts resulted in P-51B which looks like a 1:1 operational aircraft vice a more toy like appearance--I think is exceptionally difficult to pull off in 1/72 scale and you shacked it!  Best, Erwin 

[opus999]

Well, today was not my day!  Besides having a generally cruddy day at work, everything seemed to go wrong at the bench too.  Last night I looked far and wide for a hole punch small enough to make masks for the filler caps, but no luck.  Pawing through the decal spares I found both the '70s era sheet that my original Shangri-La came from 

 

 

and some long in the tooth Hasegawa decals that had the right sized red circles:

 

 

Unfortunately, those Hasegawa decals are more of a rust color than what you see in the picture so I went with the Microscale.  Today I put aqua gloss on the filler caps so the decals would grip.  I admit I'm a little nervous that it will look funny even after dull coat, but I might be able to mask it with some fuel staining.  We'll see. 

 

So, on with the decals.  I had 3 filler cap decals and one disintegrated in the water.  Of the other two, one was fine but the other had a notch missing when I got done.

 

 

 

In the process of decaling I managed to dump half a bottle of Micro set on the top of the model.  Luckily it didn't seem to damage the finish at all, but the room stinks like vinegar now.  Then, when I picked up the model I broke a landing gear off (actually the landing gear snapped in half when I cut it off the sprue.  I'd glued it and everything seemed to be fine, but I hit it just right today).  The super glue did not want to set up for some reason so I had to prop it up and let it sit.  It's supposed to set in 15 seconds and it almost always does, but after a couple of minutes it was still soft. 

 

I set out to try and fix that decal with the chip in it by painting insignia red on it.  The color matched and it actually looked good when it was wet, but when it dried it didn't look good at all.  That may have been because of the contrast of flat and gloss, but I didn't want to take any chances.  I used a little paint thinner on a paper towel to get the paint off, but my hand slipped and I made a red streak on the wing.  I was certain it was guffed up good, but a little scrubbing with another paper towel and paint thinner took the red off (and a little dull coat, but that's easily fixed).

 

At that point I figured I'd call it a day.  I'd really like to fix that starboard filler cap decal, but I don't think that's in the cards.  The hasegawa decals are the right size, but I'm afraid the rust color will stand out, since it doesn't match the other reds on the model.

[opus999]

14 hours ago, silverkite211 said:

And, to be clear, I wasn't casting aspersions about your excellent work.

No, I wasn't getting that at all... I appreciate having extra eyes to catch stuff.  It's saved me more than once!  

[opus999]

21 hours ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

Just for confirmation I found these.

Dennis, these are some great pictures!  Especially the top one.  It really shows how sloppy it can get around those filler caps!

[2996 Victor]

Sounds like one those days when its just one damn' thing after another  and without wishing to sound trite, we all get 'em, don't we? Apart from the notched decal which you'll be able to sort out, the gas caps look good and I think they'll be absolutely fine after some fuel staining and under a coat of flat clear. The u/c leg is a bit of a bugger, though. Is there any way of splinting it, perhaps?

 

Take it easy!

 

Mark

[silverkite211]

What I have done, when I've had a landing gear leg break, is to take a pin vise and a small drill bit and drill into each broken segment of the gear leg, insert a thin wire of the same diameter as the previously drilled hole and then glue the sections back together, allowing time for the repair to fully cure out. When I've had a larger diameter gear leg to deal with I was able to do the same thing with a larger size drill bit and use a section of plastic rod.

[The Spadgent]

What @silverkite211 said regarding the UC fix. 😀

The spillage seems not to have made too much damage at all which is lucky. All those panel lines look good. Have you ever tried chipping fluid? It’s a bit of a pain to set up but the results are really good. You can chip really tiny dots with a tooth pick. Either way what you’re doing looks great.

 

Bravo.

 

Johnny

[VT Red Sox Fan]

I think fuel caps look perfect—this remains on a masterpiece trajectory—you got me fishing for another go at this kit:-). Best Erwin

 

[opus999]

6 hours ago, 2996 Victor said:

we all get 'em, don't we?

Yep!  Luckily not too often...  

 

2 hours ago, silverkite211 said:

What I have done, when I've had a landing gear leg break, is to take a pin vise and a small drill bit and drill into each broken segment of the gear leg, insert a thin wire of the same diameter as the previously drilled hole and then glue the sections back together, allowing time for the repair to fully cure out. When I've had a larger diameter gear leg to deal with I was able to do the same thing with a larger size drill bit and use a section of plastic rod.

 

1 hour ago, The Spadgent said:

What @silverkite211 said regarding the UC fix. 😀

I've often thought this would be a good way to fix landing gears, but I've never found a drill bit small enough.  I guess I need to look harder! It sounds like this has been successful for you guys.  Right now the butt-join fix seems to be OK, but it wouldn't stand up to any shear force (which is how I broke it again last night).  On the shelf is fine, but if I pick it up to dust, I run the risk of breaking it again because I'm sure to forget!

 

12 minutes ago, VT Red Sox Fan said:

you got me fishing for another go at this kit

You really should!  It has been a nice little kit!

[opus999]

1 hour ago, The Spadgent said:

Have you ever tried chipping fluid?

I have not yet... I've read a lot about it and I've seen what other people can do with it.  I guess I never really thought about it for the super tiny chips.  I'll have to give it a go, I think!  I'd been thinking recently about doing Togo Saitoh's Ki-44 Tojo, which historical photos show to be heavily worn -- I figured that would be a good time to try out chipping fluid.

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

46 minutes ago, opus999 said:

I've often thought this would be a good way to fix landing gears, but I've never found a drill bit small enough.

Look into model railroading areas, Walther’s is a great company. 
 

https://www.walthers.com/products/tools-finishing/tools/hand-tool/drills-accessories/show/60

 

I have several of these bits they come two to a package for a few $. They fit pretty much all pin vise handles. I get mine at a Local Hobbytown which is the closest thing I have to a Brick & Mortar shop. 

[The Spadgent]

These are the ones I have and they have been great for a few years now.

 

https://www.emodels.co.uk//microbox-drill-set-20-0-3-to-1-6mm-pdr4001.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIue2X_ff-7AIVkd_tCh3a9APAEAQYCiABEgLKYPD_BwE

 

I’m sure something like them must be available in the US.

 

😇

[opus999]

4 minutes ago, The Spadgent said:

These are the ones I have and they have been great for a few years now.

 

https://www.emodels.co.uk//microbox-drill-set-20-0-3-to-1-6mm-pdr4001.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIue2X_ff-7AIVkd_tCh3a9APAEAQYCiABEgLKYPD_BwE

 

I’m sure something like them must be available in the US.

 

😇

0.3 mm!!  OK, I definitely am getting some of these!

[The Spadgent]

1 minute ago, opus999 said:

0.3 mm!!  OK, I definitely am getting some of these!

So useful. 
you’ll need one of these too.

double sided clamp. I thought I could get away with using the bits without but you really do need it.

 

Modelcraft Pin Vice Double Ended Swivel Top https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0041NX1E4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_caJRFbF66TTX7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

Happy modelling. 👍

[opus999]

Well, this was tedious:

 

 

I worked off and on for 3 days to get this masking done.  What made it more tedious than usual was the fact that each panel in the canopy had a 45 degree bevel (is that the right word?), which really slowed things down. 

Still, I was able to paint the canopy tonight -- Interior green, then black, then OD, then dull coat.  While I was at it I dull coated the drop tanks and the filler caps on top  of the wings.

 

 

 

Those filler caps came out A-OK!  What, me worry?  

 

Put a drop of Micro Crystal clear on the lights on the underside of the wings so it would look like lenses.  Turned out nice, I think!

 

 

I glued the drop tanks on, and then got to the canopy.  yeah... the canopy... which didn't want to fit for love, money or applesauce.  Luckily I have a second kit that I'm not afraid to fool around with and discovered that the dashboard and the seat needed trimming.  Once that was done it fit reasonably well, but not perfect.  Probably only noticeable by me...  

 

So here's where things stand for now.  I may actually be done, but I'm really tired right now and will follow up with my to-do list to make sure I got it all before really declaring victory on this one.

 

Here's more than a few years of improvement side-by-side!  

 

[opus999]

8 minutes ago, The Spadgent said:

So useful. 
you’ll need one of these too.

double sided clamp. I thought I could get away with using the bits without but you really do need it.

 

Modelcraft Pin Vice Double Ended Swivel Top https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0041NX1E4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_caJRFbF66TTX7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

Happy modelling. 👍

Yes!!  Thank you, sir!  You beat me to it... I was writing my update when this came in.  

[The Spadgent]

11 minutes ago, opus999 said:

Here's more than a few years of improvement side-by-side!  

It’s so cool you still have your old kit. All I have left is the jaw of a gloss painted Airfix Dinosaur from my parents shed. Must be 40 years old. 😱

 

Both look great but you have improved your skills for sure. 👏👏👍

 

John

[Ventsislav Gramatski]

I've been following this build for a while now and it's about time I join and say how inspiring it is! Starting off with a good research on the subject, using a vintage kit that you're improving and the result

with the penciled panel lines, it has all come along fantastic! 

 

I fully agree with what @2996 Victor said, I was a bit skeptical but the kit's panel lines look great in 1/72! Very subtle yet still just noticeable, I have to say this is far, far more realistic to-scale representation than most of the engraved lines on modern kits (even very fine ones, like on new Eduard or Tamiya kits). I am now eyeing the 1/72 Airfix Bf-109E in my stash suspiciously, with it's trench-like wide panel lines...

 

Can't wait to see the completed build, good luck!

[silverkite211]

That is looking great! Don't forget the position lights, red on the left wing, green on the right (top and underside) and white situated on the tail. I've seen some modelers use blue for the right wing light, approximating the appearance when the light is without power, but I prefer to use a little artistic license.

[opus999]

8 hours ago, The Spadgent said:

Both look great

Thanks!  ...but there's a reason why I haven't shown any close ups  of the old one...  🤣  There's actually pock marks in the bottom where air bubbles were trapped because I brush painted it so thick.

 

5 hours ago, Ventsislav Gramatski said:

it has all come along fantastic! 

Thank you!

 

5 hours ago, Ventsislav Gramatski said:

I fully agree with what @2996 Victor said, I was a bit skeptical but the kit's panel lines look great in 1/72! Very subtle yet still just noticeable, I have to say this is far, far more realistic to-scale representation than most of the engraved lines on modern kits (even very fine ones, like on new Eduard or Tamiya kits). I am now eyeing the 1/72 Airfix Bf-109E in my stash suspiciously, with it's trench-like wide panel lines...

I have to agree on this. I look at my finished builds, even the Eduards and newer Hasegawas with finely engraved panel lines and now they seem very out of scale.  Filling engraved lines in and penciling them in would be a lot of work... but it would look pretty fantastic.

 

3 hours ago, silverkite211 said:

Don't forget the position lights, red on the left wing, green on the right (top and underside) and white situated on the tail.

Thanks for the reminder. I went down and looked this morning and it is on my checklist.  

[opus999]

I knocked the last couple of items off my two do list -- nav lights and some micro chipping on the leading edge of the wing.  So except for an RFI, I'm calling it done.

 

So, what's going to happen to the old kit? Well, after my RFI pictures, I'm going to put it in a container of Simple Green to strip the paint off, disassemble it and rebuild it as "Geronimo" (w/Malcom hood) using the Eagle Strike decals.

 

It will probably take a few days to get the paint off... the top is probably enamel and I think the bottom is acrylic, but they've been on there for a long time. So, in the meantime I'm going to start a new build.

 

I hope to see some of you at my next build, a Ki-84 Frank, that I started here.

[2996 Victor]

Looking forward to the RFI, and don't forget to post some photos of the old P-51b after its restoration.

 

Meanwhile, I'm on my way over to see Frank's progress!

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

[The Spadgent]

4 hours ago, opus999 said:

So, what's going to happen to the old kit? Well, after my RFI pictures, I'm going to put it in a container of Simple Green to strip the paint off, disassemble it and rebuild it as "Geronimo" (w/Malcom hood) using the Eagle Strike decals.

Awwww that’s a shame. I’d keep it as is and get another kit. It’s .... it’s like history mannnnn. 🤗

 

Johnny

[opus999]

1 hour ago, The Spadgent said:

Awwww that’s a shame. I’d keep it as is and get another kit. It’s .... it’s like history mannnnn. 🤗

 

Johnny

Hmm... well... guilt me in to it...  I dunno.. is the Academy P-51B any good?

[Jackson Duvalier]

6 hours ago, opus999 said:

is the Academy P-51B any good?

 

As a kit it goes together very well.  As a scale replica of a P-51B/C, it has... shortcomings.  

 

Excellent fit, beautiful surface detail.  If you don't look too closely it looks like a P-51B.  Decals are the Academy we know and loathe.  At least three major shape errors off the top of my head, five if you count the wing issues separately; it's all been beaten to death expounded upon at some length, here and elsewhere.  The separate unfilleted tail unit with fabric control surfaces is quite useful for backdating P-51D kits to the very early production blocks.

 

Of course, every other P-51B/C in the proper scale is decidedly sub-optimal.  It really grates my carrots that nobody's got this type generally right yet.

 

If you want an accurately-shaped 1/72 early Merlin-engined Mustang, the options are: Monogram; or Hasegawa fuselage mated to AZ/ KP wing.

 

Good luck with your restoration effort!