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Hello gents, I finished this in April - it's a Fujimi 1/20 kit plus an aftermarket kit - by "FMD", who was new to me.  The kit caught my eye because of the aftermarket kit which had of lots of etch and white metal.  Around the first of the year, I went on an F1 binge - if inexpensive and interesting, I bought it - and this qualified - the car, an Ebay F1, and clearance sale on aftermarket, maybe $50 USD? perfect - and it turned out pretty well - please see below:

 

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The paint is Vallejo Model Air with Alclad Aqua Gloss II clear coat - worked fine  

 

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And without the body.  The aftermarket kit included some elaborate etch - actually, quite a handful to use, but I like the results:

 

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I'm not an F1 expert at all, and I've gathered this car might not be particularly beloved, but it was a fun build.  I think a guy could do worse - 

 

Thanks for having a look - 

 

Nick  

Edited by Stickframe
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  • Stickframe changed the title to 1/20 Ferrari 126 C2 build

Hi model builders, thanks for taking a look and some likes.  I've got to say, I really enjoyed this build.  The combo of Fujimi and FMD worked pretty well, and certainly made the build more interesting.

 

Cheers

Nick 

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I think it’s a gorgeous looking car, and your model (and the photography) is fantastically detailed .....and impressive.
In the causes of balance, I offer one minor criticism, which is to work on removing the seams on the (front) tyres.

Other than that, it’s perfect!

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Lovely looking model and a lovely finish.

Just one small observation Gilles Villeneuve famously drove with the number 27 (his fatal accident was in a C2).  The number 28 was driven initially by Didier Pironi (and later by Mario Andretti).  So you might need to change either the driver name on the side of the cockpit or the number.

 

There’s quite a bit of dramatic and ultimately tragic Motor Racing history behind those decals.

 

Regards Mike

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Hi guys, thanks, and glad you like it.  The body is painted with Vallejo Model Air, which to get a finish that looks automotive and not military, I've found that multiple layers of clear coat works - a couple before decals, sanded polished, then, a few more clear coats after decals are placed - which brings me to Mike's observation - at this point, blunder and all, I have to call it done.  The decals are now laminated among layers of clearcoat.  Short of stripping it, I'm not sure how to resolve this?  I do appreciate the clarification - 

 

Cheers

Nick

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Beautiful job Nick, especially with all the red body panels off, one of the most realistic looking 1/20 F1 builds I’ve seen.

 

Don’t sweat the wrong number error, I always say every model should have a minimum of one imperfection in order to “let the evil spirits out”. 
John

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17 hours ago, Stickframe said:

Hi guys, thanks, and glad you like it.  The body is painted with Vallejo Model Air, which to get a finish that looks automotive and not military, I've found that multiple layers of clear coat works - a couple before decals, sanded polished, then, a few more clear coats after decals are placed - which brings me to Mike's observation - at this point, blunder and all, I have to call it done.  The decals are now laminated among layers of clearcoat.  Short of stripping it, I'm not sure how to resolve this?  I do appreciate the clarification -

 

It's a great build and turned out just fine, and as John just said the wrong number is a tribute to the Gods of Modelling Chaos, who will doom the next build after a totally perfect one. You've skipped this, be glad! 😉

As well as for the tire seams - wasn't that the season with Ferrari's infamous middle tire wear? So, it's totally fine, you've recreated that! 😄
 
Kidding, especially the paint looks great, you did a marvelous build.

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As others have said one of the best looking cars Ferrari built and driven but one of the best drivers.

 

That is an excellent build and gorgeous detailing. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

I'm about to do my first f1 car for 25 years and I've been wondering what paint to use.

I use vallejo for most things  due to the no lacquer smell.  I didn't think you would get away with using model air ,as its matt, and then clear coating but you certainly have as it looks fantastic.

I'm a bit nervous about sanding in-between clear coats.  What grit did you use and where do you get it?

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  • 1 month later...

I love this car, the crazy days of Turbocharged F1! You did a nice job. I agree the tires would look better sanded down so they lose the mold line and it gives them a stickier look.
It looks like you attach the photo etch to the outside of the tub? That looks really, really good!

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Hello, and thanks to you all for the positive words!  I really enjoyed this build - quite a challenge.  I'm sorry for the late reply!

 

@ftm2001, thanks!  sorry, about the slow reply.  Regarding paint, yes, the body is painted with Vallejo Model Air Ferrari Red, over Tamiya fine pink rattle can primer.  The kit provides a clear body, which I had no desire to use:

 

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You can see, I did a fair amount of cutting and sanding on the underside to "encourage" the body to sit flush on the chassis.    

 

With paint, I almost always use Vallejo Model Air, and had run into the problem you describe above, which is it can look quite flat (as it's supposed to), but with coats of Aqua Gloss II, you can get a nice finish.  I've found with the model air reds and yellows, the color of your primer makes a big difference, as it will (can?) tint the base color, so if you want a lighter shade of red, a lighter shade of primer helps:

 

50771597043_b403ff6d9e_h.jpg

 

 

You can see some orange peel, but not much.  It is very difficult, if not impossible to sand the Vallejo base coat, but, you can knock down little bumps and irregularities with sanding micro film.  These materials have a very fine grit, so I've used them almost like an early and gentle rubbing/polishing material, pre clear coat.  I've used this method on a few projects:

 

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For above, I used Tamiya fine primer for red (which is pink) and some others with grey:

 

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The primer choice and Aqua Gloss works with other colors too, but did require some experiments.  After two or three base coats are down, on go two layers of Aqua Gloss.  The first layer gets a light rub down with the micro film, the second layer gets polish (I use Mequires for plastic, which is usually used for cars).  Then add decals, then two or three more layers of the gloss, each getting polished or if needed some sanding.  The gloss is much tougher than the base paint, so you can usually polish out orange peel etc.  As you've no doubt seen in countless other posts, it's good to experiment a bit on a non-favorite kit to figure out how this works best for you.  The Aqua Gloss for example seems to require a "wet" coat, which is horrifying to see the first time! It has milky, blueish tint! but it dries clear. 

 

@Collectible Cars , glad you noticed all that etch!  I came across an aftermarket kit for the car from a company called FMD, who I'd never heard of, and it was on sale - it looked so nice I bought it, then found the car kit!  And yes, it includes extensive etch for the chassis:

 

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While not all that easy to work with, I think it was worth the effort 😀

 

Thanks again for having a look and the positive responses!

 

Cheers

Nick

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Nice work Nick!  
 

If you wanted you could change the name on the 126 C2.  Back in the late 70s/early 80s it was not unknown for teams to change the name on their spare car by putting suitably coloured tape over the name of the team mate not using the car.  I don’t know if Ferrari did this for a fact in 1982 though.

 

But it’s a very nicely built model as it is so no harm to keep it as it is.

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