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Experiment to find alternative to salt weathering / chipping


lesthegringo

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All, I had previously posted having issues with the salt weathering techniques where the effect had to be less than full on battered, weathered and chipped paint. Full on it worked OK but left the remaining paint with a rough texture, which if the model was only partially weathered ruined the remainder of the paint.

 

I've looked around and seen various alternative techniques here and on the web, and a couple of those are the use of stencils to create random blotching, often used as a preshading technique, and the use of hairspray as a chipping vehicle. I have been mulling both these, and for the stencil version I played around with my own homemade designs with my laser cutter and was able to come up with a number of varied pattern and size stencils of my own - I did a post about it. The thing is, those stencils are more for blotches of faded colour than for chipping.

 

With respect to the hairspray technique, it seems to be a big favourite of the AFV crowd, plus those that do Gundam / steampunk type models where a battered and often rusty look is desired. However my desire is for it to represent more subtle. targeted chipping and wear, and it occurred to me that after all is said and done, it would be up to me to decide where to apply the chipping by hand, which takes a away the 'random pattern' (I know, seems an oxymoron) that occurs with chipping in the real world. While the chipping is random, it will by definition only occur where there is a mechanism to cause it, for example wing root walkways, leading edges, the edges of removable panels. Humans are not good at random, no matter how hard we try.

 

So it got me thinking - what if I could apply the hairspray in a controlled pattern, so that when I used the brush to do the chipping afterwards, it would only chip within designated areas. This would mean than I could attack a more defined area, safe in the knowledge that I would not end up with paint coming away in areas that I didn't want it to.

 

So to that end I am going to have an experimentation session over the coming days (weeks? I know how sometimes I can drag stuff out). I intend to cut a set of stencils that make random chips and splotches that progressively diminish the further away from a predetermined point or line it goes. Using these stencils, I will then spray the hairspray (I intend to use the non-aerosol stuff decanted into an airbrush) to then spray through the stencil over the silver or chromate base. I will then apply the top coat over this, and then work the areas with the hairspray to see if I can achieve the random chipping. I'm just going to test some first to see how it comes out, really to see if it is a viable technique, as I know that I have many good ideas that turn out to be utter shash when I attempt them.

 

However it is worth giving it a go as I have nothing really to lose, other than a few consumables. So I will post here with any results or findings, and encourage anyone out there that has interest or experience to chip in with any ideas or thoughts

 

Cheers

 

Les

 

 

Edited by lesthegringo
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My favourite chipping medium is copydex, thinned with a little 10% household ammonia. Very good for targeted applications and just rubs off easily when painted. I usually apply with various sponges and a cocktail stick depending on what I want.

 

I like the hairspray for very fine wear rather than chipping where I lightly sand the colour coat both wet and dry depending on the effect that I am seeking.

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I've not been able to find copydex or even ammonia on sale here in Hungary, despite actively looking for the latter as it is good to use with acrylic paints. I have some old Winsor & Newton masking fluid which I beleive is similar to copydex, but it's a bit too gloopy to use for chipping.

 

The use of abrasive pads was something mooted on the pages I was referencing on the hairspray techniques, so definitely worth adding to the mix. I also have been hearing some good things about Tamiya's LP11 so may try and get some for use as the base coat. Again, any feedback appreciated 

 

Les

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Copydex is just a latex glue, most of the "arts" liquid masks are similar stuff, I don't use them as copydex is easier to find and loads cheaper. You surely must have similar products in Hungary just not called the same.

 

Any household cleaner with ammonia in it would be worth a try, the stuff I have is as I say only 10% ammonia, plain water might also work just I haven't tried it as I tried the ammonia first and it worked and I have loads of it so never tested further.

 

Just checked the label and it says wet clean up is with plain water so that should work for thining.

 

I use a cotton bud with dried Copydex on it for removal, a pencil rubber works as well.

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I just used some LP11 over a dark brown primer on some 1/32 propeller blades this morning and it sprayed well thinned a tad more than 50/50 with lacquer thinners, unbranded industrial cellulose thinner that I use. Went down well with even coverage, finish is even and smooth, it looks like silver paint rather than a metal finish but that is a common "feature" of most metallics.

 

The copydex is drying and I will be spraying the colour later, the LP11 should be a good base coat but has no colour improvements over my normal enamel metallics, just dries a tad quicker.

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What I'm trying to achieve is to use stuff like that to apply a more controlled pattern than my cack handed attempts at 'random' chipping, and especially where it is reasonably beaten. If you are able to do it freehand, that's obviously great, but unfortunately it hasn't worked so well for me. 

 

Of course, what I'm trying to do still may not work! However I will only know by trying, and you never know, it may add something to the modelers armoury.

 

Les

 

 

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