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Revell 1-48 Mosquito B Mk. IV


Ran
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The Beast is done - for a long time now.

The slender two engine is racing gracefully to completion.

Work-from-home is was fun, then it was gone and now back again.

Bench time was ample, then gone, and maybe coming back.

 

It time for the next one:

 

sEPLCQTl.jpg

 

This one comes with a whole lot of plastic:

Oh9dOF9m.jpg 2cPL0dim.jpg

2cPL0dim.jpg Z9feWrGm.jpg

gGwqIRym.jpg uJfqWmFm.jpg

 

So, frets cleaned up, transparencies soaked in future and drying, workbench is being organized.

Hope building will start soon.

 

Ran

 

 

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Today I had some time for a quick start

This kit has a lot of parts so it merits / requires some putting together before painting.

The plastic itself is not that nice - pale, soft and surprisingly full of flash. Another annoying aspects - the part numbers are almost impossible to read off the frets. I need to keep going back to the part list in the instructions. The frets are also very big and cumbersome to handle.

 

The engineering looks good and somewhat complicated. Probably the most complicated kit I built so far. Well, that what I though looking at the instructions.

It was clear though that this build will require a lot of dry fitting.

 

0excyBWl.jpg

 

The kit's pilot seat is a piece of weird engineering. No positive support, fiddly parts and gates at the far end of very small mating surfaces.

2ymxDSlm.jpg

 

The cockpit floor looked first as if it has nice fit:

Left side - looks OK:

NaCdKqdl.jpg

Right side - also looks OK:

ux2VDWJl.jpg

 

Then how come I get these 😬🙄

jutLTdYl.jpg

jVH9V6Jl.jpg

 

There is some puttying fun @#$@$@# heading my way.

 

That's it for tonight.

 

Ran

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Talk about lousy engineering.

Can some one explain these:

 

R3B2yPnl.jpg

 

Yeh - I'm talking about parts 88,84,85 - their size, their gates, the huge spruces that won't allow you to gut on a surface. Looks like someone really worked hard to make sure there parts will brake when separated from the sprue. Not to mention the fact that these are parts of the main LG and will have to bear the weight of the model.

 

Turns out there are a lot of parts arranged like that AND a lot of flash.

 

It looks like this build will go SLOWLY, involve tons of DRY FITTING, make me fix broken parts MORE THAN ONCE and curse even more :)

 

I hope it won't suck up all of the mojo

 

Ran

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14 minutes ago, Ran said:

Yeh - I'm talking about parts 88,84,85 - their size, their gates, the huge spruces that won't allow you to cut on a surface.

Wow.

Ok. *makes note*

 

Well, I hope you've got some very fine one-sided cutters (like the Tamiya or MasterTools). Having had something similar, they work best when holding the part instead of the frame/runner.

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Just a regular day at the shop :)

 

Lots of small parts, preparing for paint, painting, re-touching, gluing, detailing

lots and lots of that

fun build - except the flash ;)

JrSKl48l.jpg

TnsVA0nl.jpg

BNRrMjhl.jpg

 

More coming soon

 

Ran

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Lots and lots of fun

 

The engineer in me want's efficiency - finding the optimal build order that allow the maximum number of parts to be airbrushed together.

Well - there are just to many parts and too many AMS options here.

I give up and go about painting, detailing and the other way around.

 

LOw3mWpl.jpg

 

z8tsTvbl.jpg

 

424O42Gl.jpg

t8NxNCvl.jpg

oNK5Ayml.jpg

 

Created some back-pad with some putty

424O42Gm.jpg?2

 

 

Waiting for group paint:

9MEmwXqm.jpg

 

 

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Even more fun

 

There are so many opportunities for detailing and painting that I let my self go about it almost randomally, and not by any specific order.

It will take a couple more bench times, and probably many days, until I can go forward with closing the fuselage and getting with the rest of the build.

 

In the meantime - just having fun at the bench

I found some nice ref. images of the HK 1/32 kit for inspiration as well as downloaded the Tamiya Mosquito instructions for paint ref.

 

7HDMGj7l.jpgo54DGa8l.jpg

VL6VBnZl.jpg7N2JIuxl.jpg

572KZG2l.jpgE4R9qkdl.jpg

alCPU9nl.jpgLJ5xXVAl.jpg

iz5139hl.jpgAPr6AjJl.jpg

 

That's it for tonight

 

Ran

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I also built this  -  its real fiddly and yes a few poor fits  first  - the two front fuselage pieces  (the floor at the front from quite a way back and Just behind the entrance door all the way  towards the nose  - needs a lot of sanding so the fuselage sides will meet.

Also parts  84,85 and 88  are for the main undercarriage legs/mudguards  - and yes fiddly to cut away  (side cutters with a pointed nose are really needed here).

 

The fit of the engine nacells  are fiddly  and need carefull filling with a rounded file to get them to slide over the wing into place at both ends.

 

Also then watch out with the main u/c units as getting them down into position in the nacells is near impossible  as the u/c units are wider then the opening,  I solved mine by sanding the lower leg sections down abit flush with the oil tanks,  also  the u/c units  are slightly too short by about 3/4mm   I made this difference up by gluing inside the wells  were the legs sit  - some plastic flat stock  then sat the  u/c units  ontop of that.

The rear parts of the legs are also fiddly and need (Gentle bending)  to get them in posiion in thier lugs - then glued well.

 

Also when you fit the canopy together its fiddly as there are seperate small glazing sections that have to be added, then the fit on the fuselage can be a bit hit and miss  - I suggest a few dry runs before you glue it down.

 

I should also have said  the fit of the rear fuselage to the front is also a bit of a pain  and needs careful  placing to get it to lign up.

 

The wings mate with the fuselage well  - but the cut outs in the wings for the plastic spars need a bit of sanding inside to let them fully fit.

 

Apart from those the rest of the kit is a joy to build.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Erk.

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@ERK - thank you very much. That's quite a heads up.

I wish I had such info before I started :)

I hope the Tamyia kits are better engineering (I have another Mosquito in the stash)

 

Looking at the MLG's and reading your input gives me the shivers as well as an idea to maybe do this build in-flight. Should not go overboard in detailing the MLG wells.

 

Thanks

Ran.

 

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The fun continues

 

Following the tips from @ERK I decided to try and stiffen the MLG legs a bit. A combination of wire and CA glue. Tedious work, one MLG per sitting :)

These will be covered with paint and hopefully provide some strength without being noticed.

 

C9j5n2rl.jpg O97LLXwl.jpg

 

Detailing goes on:

Uvzc51fm.jpg 043UrgYm.jpg

 

z9Isgs5l.jpg6RlE39il.jpg

llmstPml.jpg jLyEOXwl.jpg

 

GH1M2qpl.jpg aupslcGl.jpg

9FWb4Iil.jpg

 

 tuALgtSl.jpg sDkFTI7l.jpgTcFdRN8l.jpg

 

The engines will be next:

wOJOifgl.jpg

 

That's it for tonight.

 

Comments are welcomed as always.

Ran

 

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Fun goes on

 

Added some oxygen pipes - first time I use TNK reatvit - cool item

 

This is kit is really amazing as you need so much dry fitting you end up building 2-3 kits by the time you finish one !

Dry fitting the front fuselage parts showed I had to curve the radio box, canopy opening, pilot seat - the lot.

 

A few quick photos:

wd4hTc5l.jpg?1 9GQqu9al.jpg?1

 

DTM1RJTl.jpg

Mo02QKUl.jpg

hcQJAIPl.jpg

 

That's it for now

 

Ran

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Had just about as much fun as I'm ready to with the cockpit

 

Added some levers - I believe its the LG one:

vKoBx34l.jpg

 

I considered adding PE belts for the navigator seat but was fed up with PE so opted for the decal ones. Just added a small PE piece to connect the decal to the belt retarder I added earlier

 

TovjSdbl.jpg

 

Added the stick, the seat lever, the cockpit door and some final details and its DONE

 

46Iu6b2l.jpgPVAIEcFl.jpgvKoBx34l.jpgIetvi04l.jpgyXPKQ2dl.jpgwWOYwVMl.jpgLBbjyy2l.jpgGmQazW9l.jpg

 

Gluing it all together was a nightmare - I had to dry fit a lot, sand even more and use force at the end.

 

Mo02QKUl.jpghcQJAIPl.jpg

5nxR7Dtl.jpg

and I'm saving you the look of the under part :)

 

The instructions calls for gluing the aft parts of the fuselage together and only then to the front parts - I suggest doing it differently as I can't possibly understand how that can be done. The engineering on this kit leave much to desire.

 

9ZRms8Zl.jpg

e7e3jv4l.jpg

 

So here's we I'm at this stage - I need a break from this kit for a while.

 

Ran

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Taking a short break from the (tedious ;) ) PE work on the 2 X P-400

 

Continue strengthening the MLG delicate struts. Completed the 2nd set. Should have been easier but instead I made a mistake. See if you can spot it

9Bw5zsLl.jpg

 

Put some micro-mask on the front windows

UDguJm3l.jpg

Put it some putty and sanding time

Z2BbIOCl.jpg

 

That's it for tonight

Ran

 

 

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  • 2 months later...

Pushing forward with the build - I hope to find time to update the build log soon. 

 

Quick question - The B Mk IV had two (2) wingtip lights - the front one being a navigation light (Red/Green-Blue). I can't seem to find the color of the rear looking ones - the formation lights.

Any clues would be appreciated.

Ran

 

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Well - after spending a couple of hours (honest to god) researching this. I found the following information about the navigation lights / formation lights:

- The B Mk. IV had two sets of wing tip lights while later models only had the forward facing ones.

- The instruction manual of the HKM 1/32 B Mk. IV, call out for both the forward and the rear one to have colored lights (red/green).

   This was the only reference I found for this question.

 

After establishing that I geared up to drill the little clear parts and paint them when I had a pleasant surprise - Revell had engineered small holes in the plastic parts so you only have to add some paint.  This is great engineering and one of the only good things I can say about the engineering of this model.

 

A couple of images:

 

Gi80kvel.jpg cxeV1WZl.jpg

FNvgQuhl.jpgMLKLCl1l.jpg

QO6rs9sl.jpg

 

 

 

I've progressed with the build since the last update and this "wing tip lights" is just a quick update.

Here's a teaser - until I find some time to update on the overall progress of the build

Ull6Bwsl.jpg

 

That's it for tonight.

Comments are welcomed as always.

Ran

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  • 3 weeks later...

It's been a (very) long time since the last proper update. This kit completely sucked my mojo and the first to suffer is this build log.

I found it hard to imagine how poor engineering can really kill all joy of building - so thank you Revell for teaching me this !@@#$#@$

 

Last real updated concluded with the fuselage closed and the flimsy landing gear legs being re-enforced with wire and CA.

 

Next in line were the wings.

I like the moving flaps and ailerons. The detail is a bit soft (true for most of this kit) but nice:

Xs0eh48l.jpg vv8p0LOl.jpg

 

Dry fit of the engine nuclei hints of many hours of frustration in the near future:

 

QqeShqWl.jpg PfCcwOil.jpg

 

The next mini-project was freshening up the exhausts:

After some research I decided to thicken the end and paint them. I used think slices of a plasticard tube for that:

Aq3mkYRl.jpgXnxzRFYl.jpg

vsFKiJ0l.jpg

l1RNXdQl.jpghrmsntol.jpg

zpQ86Bml.jpg

(here together with the P-400 exhausts that went trough the paint shop together)

 

I decided to detail only one engine and have only one panel open:

v7chwfRl.jpg Peq0yaxl.jpgWslkC4Kl.jpg

 

The Model Master 4850 I'm using as interior paint just shoots poorly:

 

fIH2I9Ol.jpg

 

Added the landing gear doors spring mechanism:

cCkeBkzl.jpg3t1zVXGl.jpg

 

I spend some time detailing the engine using some lead wire, electrical wire, some plasticard and a bit of sprue (the front oil tank) and some wash.

It was fun and not too much of a hassle (compared to this Merlin for example :) )

zadGhck.jpg?1

 

Suw6sCk.jpg

 

Albeit numours dry fits - closing the engine pod on this engine Will prove to be a PITA:

nqTfbhTl.jpg Ull6Bwsl.jpg

 

LJRn3K1l.jpg vf3Rn5Ol.jpg

 

bZ1Rcinl.jpg

 

The engineering of the landing gear and the engine pod are just horrible. Can have enough foul words to describe the numerous hours spent trying to figure out and execute a build order that will put all these parts in place and in alignment. It was so annoying I genuinely though of shelving a kit - for the first time. It also sucked all joy from this build and I found myself switching to a 'just finish up this sucker' mentality as far as trying to achieve a good results. When I examined my image gallery I also found just a few images of the build from this phase - which indicates a lot of frustration.

 

An example - just impossible fit (and you can also see the nasty long sink mark on top of the inner flap - don't worry it can also be seen on the finished model 😬)

 

(quPTYqql.jpg

 

I took two long bench session, a lot of glue, CA, curses and a lot of putty - but the engine pods were finally glued and closed.

 

The entire model was masked in preparation for primer, not before I had to arrange for a solution for the spinner axis for the engine pod I closed up (the kit provides a based for the exist only using the engine itself). I decided to deviate from the actual configuration of the airplane I'm building (a 109 sq. 1944 circa) and go without the exhaust shrouds - I just like the exhaust so much) - so these needed to be masked as well.

 

DjqojU7l.jpg

 

tPGhmIWl.jpg1Y1QvIml.jpg

 

Transparencies were masked using Micromask when needed. The kit's canopy is another example of shitty engineering - the side windows are just impossible to glue on.

 

xibbJVjl.jpg Z0nJh2Vl.jpg

tWOmJZNl.jpgpXXlwi4l.jpg

Sb1T4XEl.jpg

 

j76jRpOl.jpg

 

Primer time !! This time I used Stynylrez - but shoot it properly at 30psi. That made a huge difference:

NFJm2pnl.jpg

 

And some pre-shading:

enkNwSxl.jpg cbDZ4sel.jpg

VzOewaUl.jpg

 

And the gray layer - Tamiya XF-82:

XeLWgGMl.jpg

 

Masking for the green camouflage was a bit complicated:

B2gIKNSl.jpgrGJoKoZl.jpg o8VM54cl.jpg

 

Still looking for a good method of creating the mask patterns.

 

Ready for the next paint session.

 

Comments are welcomed as always

 

Ran

 

 

 

 

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Something about pre-shading always makes it looks like a Luftwaffe aircraft...fantastic work, glad you soldiered on and are getting it done!

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SWMBO is on a bike trek so I had a lot of bench time this weekend 😉

 

After fixing the paper masks using some blu-tac I sprayed the green, but did not take any pictures :)

 

I then masked in preparation for the black paint. Must say that I was low on motivation so I'm not sure the masking is fully symmetric.

I decided to use Model Master Flat Black 4768 and was positively surprised.

 

CSvH6O2l.jpgWAAu3JNl.jpg

 

TptY474l.jpgFI3qbxxl.jpg

 

I concluded by adding some Flat White and spraying some panels. The affect was very minimal and can not be seen in the pictures and to be honest is also very very minor on the kit is self as well.

nohTGs7l.jpg

 

I removed the masks, sprayed some Alclad Aqua Gloss and when on decaling

 

FTUoK1Wl.jpg

 

ZUA3wpbl.jpg

OjDq9lsl.jpg

 

Starting for finalize all the small bits I found out I did not paint the bombs. A short research indicated the bombs should be Deep Bronze Green - which translated into some thing like 8 x XF5 + 5 X XF63 satin. Turns our this is the paint for British armor.

x3ILpKVl.jpg

 

So - almost there with decals - and being soaked in MicroSol as the black backdrop is a PITA for silvering.

 

y2FFJF4l.jpg1xYqcjgl.jpg

3QSOi65l.jpg

zkVIG2Jl.jpg

p2vzPKhl.jpgl9bDiiil.jpg

6ATr9Ygl.jpg

rkzx6dMl.jpg5fhlu9al.jpg

 

 

I guess I will need one more sitting to do some washes, seal and install all the rest of the bits.

 

Comments are welcomed as always.

 

Ran

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Posted (edited)

Another twitch of AMS, as this build draws to its end.

The Revell Mosquito lacks the wheels guards. Although I'm tired of this build I just could not ignore that.

I came across a short bonus content that came with Airframes and Miniatures #10 - with a neat idea on how to go about creating these.

 

So I copied the outline of the guards (from the HK instruction sheet and from a photo), scaled them up to the right size and printed them on a piece of paper. I then got some Tamiya tape on the paper and cut the tape according to the outline. The tape was then cut and put an a piece of flat Styrene - which was cuted using a scriber and sanded to shape.

That piece was glued on a flat piece of Styrene - an here we have a template to curve some wire.

 

JgueRjhl.jpg

bNYyz1Nl.jpg

 

Such a big mess for such small detail - a true AMS case.

I used 0.6 wire but should have probably used a thinner one. I'm out of patients with this build - did I mentioned that already?

All in all - a bit our of scale but resembles the original part.

 

Zikv3dwl.jpg

mJIKlNAl.jpg

 

That's it for tonight

Ran

 

Edited by Ran
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Posted (edited)

Well - the beast is done and just about time.

I completely lost my patient and this is not a good way to finish up a build - and I have a couple of wiffle-ups to show this is true.

 

After the work with the wheel guards I continues with adding the final annoying tiny bits.

 

First came the wheels, break lines and mud guards:

 

v2tcUnwl.jpgvWm1qbAl.jpg

 

Then came the turn of the wheel well doors - with the complementary fix for two broken hinges:

Ds41E2Ll.jpg

J4UVpcFl.jpgrBtKhUPl.jpg

 

For the antenna mast - I prepared a neat trick:

6boTiRDl.jpg

 

All these required of course the help of bear. One of our own home-brew:

45Kv0xpl.jpg

 

Navigation lights:

CMQusWPl.jpg

 

I came across this annoyingly wonderful build of the very same kit by Andy Call sign "Crimea River " from Calgary dated July 2013.

It's a superb build, I burrowed some of Andy's ideas but also got really pouting as it downed on my that my building skills are much much lower then Andy's and that some one can make a decent and even good build out of the same measurable plastic.

If I would have come across this build report earlier I'm sure the overall results would have been much better.

 

Following Andy's build - I used some stretched sprue for the door pull-in lines:

aRf4vIll.jpg

 

 

Then it was time to do some paint touch ups and some washes:

Sn1wgJol.jpgc9N4tOrl.jpg

 

That was it - I was ready to close it up when .....

 

Fy6kmmIl.jpg

Alcohol drops that should have NOT be sprayed on the building table found their way to the wrong location. :(

A quick deliberation - No WAY AM I going to re-spray here. Took out the brush and paint tin and did some more touch ups.

 

The antenna wire was done using Easyline, a touch of CA and the wire loop I added to the mast.

hQ75BgUl.jpgUUmLd7Hl.jpg

 

I kept breaking the smaller parts and should have thought about taking a break as my desire to finish up tonight was getting in the way of doing it right,

 

Kit was sprayed with Klear Kote. First the underside and on the following day the upper side. This was done to avoid the need to touch and manipulate all the tiny parts on the underside of the model - antennas, doors, etc.

 

Then came the time to remove the masks and I was too impatient to wait and do that after the Klear Cote was fully dried - this resulted in puling up some of the decals. Super stupid on my part. Certainly the 2nd decal that was pulled up the 2nd time.

 

So - here is is -a quick look. I will add some more images later this week and hopefully do a full RFP.

 

bcR7uoDl.jpg

wJ6fQOQl.jpg

WMTrUYYl.jpg0UB3ww3l.jpg

cNs2bKpl.jpg

ZYJ4YxOl.jpg

3WLHpe0l.jpg

W9tz7hll.jpg

aKh9WKsl.jpg

 

In the final stages this 3 feet model just became a 6 to 9 feet model - mainly due to my impatient with the build and the low level of MOJO due to the crappy engineering.

 

Time to look back and review:

This build had some firsts:

- A complicated model by Revell

- Scratch building boxes for the cockpit as well as many other small items

- Using putty to make seat pad

- Scratch building cable plugs for some of the boxes in the cockpit

- Re-enforcing the MLG legs with wire. In hindsight - should have used the method Andy used.

- Using TNK reatvit for oxigen line

- Using STYNYLREZ primer with the RIGHT PSI dialing after proper shaking - major difference

- Stretching sprue and using is as thin wires

- Adding wire loop to the Antenna mast

- Using Model Master Flat Black to cover large areas - this paint has a nice flat touch and look to it and beside being a bit challenging with decals was cool looking.

- Using a template to create a wire element (wheel guards) - should have used a small diameter wire though

- COMPLETELY loosing my patience and creating a series of wiffle up the ruined several thing on the (almost) completed model.

 

This kit CAN be build into a beautiful model - as can be see in Andy's build log.

 

Nevertheless - a few points if you are like me - not truly up to the challenge in term of your experience and patience:

- It's an old Revell kit - expect lots of flash, soft details, weird gate location, lots of sink marks and overall funny plastic.

- Engineering of some of the parts it truly bad. Some due to the Mossi structure itself and some just poor. Anyone said MLG?

- Main landing gear is a PITA.

- Cockpit glazing is a PITA - with these side windows that just do not match.

- Engine pods are a major PITA in terms of fit. They require a lot of muscle and putty.

- Fuselage lower window has some fit problems complicated by the facts its a clear part.

- Bomb bay and racks have lots of parts and small fit problems translate later in the build into big challenges in fitting in the bombs.

- Kit need a lot of putty in some areas - and especially with the black paint schemes you should take care to do it properly. I failed at that.

- Spinners are our of shape.

 

So - it started as a fun to build kit - I really enjoyed the time spent on detailing the cockpit and the engine. It later on developed into a build skill stretching exercise and then progressed to be a 'just get it done and off the table' experience. The final result is a decent 9 feet kit that left a good taste to do another Mossi - this time a Tamiya :)

 

That's it for today.

Comments are welcomed as always

 

Ran

Edited by Ran
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