Rats! It's Another Grant - MiniArt 1/35 Grant Mk.I - ***FINISHED***

[Ozzy]

Fantastic figure painting Ray.

[Ray_W]

15 hours ago, Ozzy said:

Fantastic figure painting Ray.

Thanks Ozzy,

They're ok, but I need a lot more practice better blending those oils. It is the first time I tried the technique of oils over acrylics in figure painting and enjoyed it immensely. Seem like the last time I was figure painting was a long time ago in a galaxy far, far away. Yes, back in the day when Tamiya acrylics brushed beautifully straight out of the jar. Back when never the word "retarder" was mentioned - just brush, tap water and paint.

Ray

 

[Ozzy]

4 hours ago, Ray_W said:

Thanks Ozzy,

They're ok, but I need a lot more practice better blending those oils. It is the first time I tried the technique of oils over acrylics in figure painting and enjoyed it immensely. Seem like the last time I was figure painting was a long time ago in a galaxy far, far away. Yes, back in the day when Tamiya acrylics brushed beautifully straight out of the jar. Back when never the word "retarder" was mentioned - just brush, tap water and paint.

Ray

 

I know what you mean about the Tamiya paints, i find it very frustrating when figure painting.

[Ray_W]

A quick post to show this build is still under way. I have not been at the bench for 5 weeks due to other matters and finally, today, I was able to spend a little time.

 

This is a build that will have most of the paraphernalia in place before painting. Mainly due to the large quantity of PE and the high parts fidelity. No problem. I do not mind detail painting on largely assembled AFV kits.

 

I made the decision to glue the side skirts in place. It uses a narrow flexible butt join, very difficult to do neatly with a painted surface. It is possible to do this now as the track can be fed in over the front drive sprocket, so long as you ensure it rotates, after painting. I also put the tensioning idler sprocket in place to be glued after the tracks are in position and correctly tensioned. I found with the running gear, most holes need to be cleaned up to accept their mating shaft - drill, reamer or small rat tail file at hand.

 

 

I did a test by feeding the track in to ensure my theory worked. 

 

 

👍 All good.

 

A lot of tiny little pieces of PE to go in place and still not complete. I did break off the right hand tail light. Still not at hand. Maybe scratch building something or a loose wire indicating it was broken off. Better still, I find it.

 

 

MiniArt do a good representation of the tie down handles, but folding these miniature pieces and then gluing them in place to take the PE straps and then not breaking them off was, for me anyway, tedious. After playing with this for a while I thought "why bother?" I bent some 0.25 mm copper wire drilled some holes and glued some decent tie down points in place. Frankly almost impossible to see with normal vision and a sturdy connection.

 

You can see one here before adding the brass strap and one to the left done. Much easier.

 

 

Another minor frustration was the couple of items MiniArt says need to be scratch built - some wiring (not an issue and preferred) and the tow cable (pest). I had to go out and find some material for the tow cable. If I was home in Australia this would not be a problem - into the workshop, problem solved. In the end I went to the LHS, who has a good range of rigging types for ship modellers, and purchased some 1-1/8" steel cable. Well really some 0.8 mm hemp suitable for a 1/35 cable.  Running a piece through the fingers with some PVA and it's ready for painting. Also drilled out the thimbles to accept it. Seems my cable is the right size but I will need to strip it down a little on the ends to fit.

 

 

Now I am launching into front hull detail and side rails. Another evening of PE. All cheer! He says facetiously.

 

Hope to be into painting very soon.

 

Ray

 

 

[Ray_W]

I am creeping to the finish line. In some ways, two steps forward and one step back. I did some re-work to correct a couple of minor irritations. 

 

Firstly, I had the tow rope nicely made up and glued in position on the rear deck per the instructions. I was unhappy with that so ripped it off and made a new one to fix to the front of the vehicle as often seen.

 

Secondly, I had the spare jerry cans and supporting frame glued in place on the rear guards. This just did not seem appropriate for a mid-1942 M3 (and, in fact, is not shown in the MiniArt profile ) so I ripped those off having also glued them nicely in position.

 

If you're building an M3, it is worth studying photos of your chosen vehicle to check the actual type of guard fitted. My subject has the rounded type although I note many had shields made from flat sheet. These almost seemed a field mod judging by some of the thin and battered material used. Many also had a flat top on the rear guard with different things on top - tool box, ammo box(es), jerry cans. This area can't be seen on my subject. I think a 0.303 metal ammo box that the crew has fixed in position might be a nice touch. 

 

Here's the rear deck after mods. Tapaulin and bedding just sitting in place for the time being. I will add a few other things, not too much as I am planning to fix haversacks and rolled shade tapaulin to the side rails after painting. Plus, a few items up front.

 

 

I like the PE effect, but must admit that it is not one of my favourite aspects of the hobby. And, there is still more to come!

 

 

Tow rope re-positioned. This time off the front. I made a standard Sherman 1-1/8" tow rope (0.8 mm). Looking at photos it seems the rope should be of a slightly smaller diameter for a 1942 M3, possibly 1" (0.72 mm) The experts will know. I am not changing it again - dat'll do!

 

 

Lots of things to do. You get your monies worth with this kit. Oh, I am so glad I am not doing a full interior. 

 

 

One good thing is that, because, I have only one kit underway at a time, when I hit PE tedium or rework frustration, I am less inclined to shelve it and go on with that nice new shiny project. Like something out of a horror movie, it just sits there, front and centre on the bench, saying "You know you're coming back. Don't you? There is no escape" My remark is usually "Damn you infernal PE!" I grab my Lovecraftian weapon of choice (Xuron PE snips) and go to battle. Mmmm .... wasn't too bad after all.

 

Ray

[Ozzy]

Looking good Ray, I’ve definitely got to get one of these 

[Ray_W]

13 minutes ago, Ozzy said:

Looking good Ray, I’ve definitely got to get one of these 

 

Ozzy,

They're great kits. The kit goes together really well. I was joking about the PE. It is actually not that bad. Not like going full blown ABER detail up. 

Ray

[Enzo the Magnificent]

3 hours ago, Ray_W said:

They're great kits.

 

I have to agree with that.

[CliffB]

I'm just catching up Ray and I have to say that it's all looking really good (particularly the figures ).

 

 

[Ray_W]

5 minutes ago, CliffB said:

I'm just catching up Ray and I have to say that it's all looking really good (particularly the figures ).

 

 

 

Thanks Cliff,

 

Should see some paint over the weekend. 

 

I see you're currently building a 1/72 Hawk and 1/35 Armoured Car. You must have to just about bring in a chain block to move them seeing they're not in your regular braille scale. I see a return to 1/200 with the Sopwith Baby. What will you do with all the space you must of cleared?

 

Ray 

[CliffB]

3 hours ago, Ray_W said:

What will you do with all the space you must of cleared?

 

 

The cupboard's still full Ray and the display case is still empty! 

I'm still mostly doing 1/100 for aircraft, but would like to do more 1/32ish vehicles next year too.  It's looks like it will be a 50:50 mix based on the GB menu 

 

Cheers

[Ray_W]

And so the painting begins.

 

I gave everything a coat with Black Mr Finishing Surfacer  (MFS) 1500. It is, already, out of the jar, a dirty black, but in this case I added in some MFS Grey to shift it more grey for running gear and as a suitable base coat for the tracks before further colours are applied. I like MFS as a solid undercoat and then, with acrylics over the top, any inadvertent bump or wear appears dark grey. I also like the robust base coat over mixed media, tying everything together and good for shadowing later if you do not want a solid finish colour in those tight spaces.  

 

Next I put a coat of Tamiya XF-62 Olive Drab as an overall base colour. I will show wear in the top surfaces through to the Olive Drab and was in two minds to use hairspray or sponge technique. I would need to put a clear lacquer coat over the Olive Drab acrylic before doing hairspray and decided such complexity was really not necessary for the limited top deck and turret wear I wish to portray. Sponge will be simpler and more controllable. I can build it up to the desired effect.

 

Here it is in its factory fresh scheme. 

 

 

Now some Mike Starmer Tamiya paint mixes having finally decided on Light Stone, Silver Grey (top) and Light Purple Brown (disruptor).

 

Next pictures should look less like it is just about to roll out of the Baltimore Locomotive factory.

 

Ray

 

 

[Ray_W]

A productive weekend - main colour coats complete.

 

Tamiya colour mixes per Mike Starmer and Mike Cooper https://www.mafva.org/british-vehicle-camouflage-1939-45/?v=79cba1185463

 

Light Stone: (7 x XF-2) + (2 x XF-59) +  (2 x XF-3)

Silver Grey: (7 x XF-21) + (1 x XF-4) +(1 x XF-19)

Light Purple Brown: (10 x XF-7) + (1 x XF-8)

 

And here is the result. 

 

 

 

 

I am very pleased with the colours. The Silver Grey top side and Light Purple Brown fit better with my expectation than MiniArt recommendations of US Olive Drab and a Brown.

 

Time to turn my attention to some detail painting, a couple of decals and then into those tracks and weathering.

 

Great kit. 

 

Ray

[Ozzy]

Looks fantastic Ray

[Ray_W]

I had a pleasant evening painting all the bits and pieces to hang off the side rails.

 

Everything was painted with Tamiya acrylics including shading and highlighting. I used a drop of Tamiya Retarder in a few drops of their paint and then worked from my palette mixing as you may do with oils. I have tried various other mixes for improving the brushability of Tamiya acrylics. Of all, the most consistent for me is their retarder. Works extremely well. Transforms the paint.

 

I lost a little of the colour variation in the photography. Probably better to capture the photo in natural light. Hopefully you get the idea. 

 

 

 

These will be flat coated once fixed to the vehicle and then blended in with any dust effects.

 

Still more to do. Now, back to the vehicle itself.

 

Ray

[CliffB]

On 12/9/2020 at 11:28 AM, Ray_W said:

I had a pleasant evening painting all the bits and pieces to hang off the side rails.

 

I can see why that would have been a pleasant activity Ray 

Also, thanks for mentioning the Tamiya Retarder - something I hadn't heard of before.

[Ray_W]

14 hours ago, CliffB said:

Also, thanks for mentioning the Tamiya Retarder - something I hadn't heard of before.

 

 

Cliff, I use Liquitex back home in Australia. Seeing I am still here in Bulgaria, and not being able to source it locally, easily, I opted for Tamiya's own brand and, well, great stuff. Also, as you would expect, works well with Mr Aqueous Hobby Color.

 

Seems, these days, I gravitate more and more back to the manufacturer's own product. Certainly, all are trying to cash in with their extended ranges, but their own products just seem to work.

 

 

The MiniArt decals went on a treat over Gunze's H101 Premium Gloss Clear. I used Mr Setter and Softer. Did not really need the Softer, just a habit. Everything still in gloss as I have some more targeted upper hull and turret wash still to apply. 

 

I decided to portray the pioneer tools as if over painted in situ when the Desert camo colours were applied and then with some wear through to their base colours. Nice little project although they will be mostly covered with rear deck stowage. I have started some weathering like the dusty fuel stains and modest chipping - more to come.

 

 

Looking at period pictures of the Grant's exhaust system, I had seen some with a darkened staining although often they seem to have been painted and then with some resultant flaking. The heavily rusted exhaust system is modeller's eye candy, in my case I tried something more like this. 

 

 

Here's the result. You can also spot 3 errors - darn! left side exhaust stack slightly tilted, right side tail light missing and weld marks on the rear platen for another MiniArt option and should of been removed. So, in order to obviate the need for rework, I'll pretend the exhaust system needs tightening or was bolted down by the crew slightly askew (sorry guys), the right rear light was broken off (you never know I might find it) and the crew had something welded on the back that they removed.

 

 

It's the fun part - AFV finishing.

 

Ray

[Ray_W]

The MiniArt tracks as supplied are worth the effort. 

 

I had already undercoated the tracks in a dirty black (Black Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500) then gave them a coat of clear flat for a little extra protection. Once dry I then went to town using AK's enamel "Africa Dust Effects" as a binder and the lightest soil coloured pigment I have, Mig's "Airfield Dust", and played about with variability and coverage. 

 

 

I was happy with the effect.

 

 

So time to put those tracks onto the model. Fed them in from the sprocket end. Make sure the track is engaged correctly in the drive teeth and rotate. I kept rotating and feeding through. Not too difficult, fed through very nicely. I joined the track under a road wheel and tightened and glued the tensioner and all done.

 

Finally it is starting to look the part.

 

 

 

More to do. Commander's cupola and driver's hatch to finish and then flat coat more weathering etc.etc.

 

It is certainly a value for money kit and very enjoyable.

 

Ray

 

 

 

 

Edited December 13, 2020 by Ray_W
typo

[Ray_W]

Well I am calling this one done.

 

MiniArt 1/35 M3 Grant - a delightful build. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'll take some photos in natural light tomorrow and decide which best capture the look for the gallery. These may well do.

 

Thanks to the enthusiastic hosts and everyone's support for another most enjoyable Group Build.

 

Time to get off the ground, shake the sand off and get that MiG 21bis underway for the Intereceptor GB.

 

Ray

Edited December 21, 2020 by Ray_W
Added Photo

[Ozzy]

Fantastic build Ray, I’ve definitely got one of these on next years build list.

[Ray_W]

1 minute ago, Ozzy said:

Fantastic build Ray, I’ve definitely got one of these on next years build list.

 

Thanks Ozzy. A must do kit - very enjoyable build. And, for me, that occasional AFV build as a welcome break from those things with aerofoils. Mind you, with that Continental Wright in the back, it might still qualify.

 

Ray

[edjbartos]

Enjoyed looking through your build Ray, a really nice record of how to do a superb build, well done, cracking job...

 

Ed

[CliffB]

Well done Ray 

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

Hello Ray.. That really does look good. ... I really should build a Grant one of these days its a strong possibility for the Africa build. 

[Ray_W]

10 hours ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

Hello Ray.. That really does look good. ... I really should build a Grant one of these days its a strong possibility for the Africa build. 

 

Thanks Dennis,

 

What I like about the GB's is I often choose a subject I would not normally do. I gained an appreciation for the Grant as a result of this build beyond the norm - Spitfire, Bf-109, P-51, Sherman, Tiger 1. A great subject and a worthy one for an Africa build.

 

Ray