Rats! It's Another Grant - MiniArt 1/35 Grant Mk.I - ***FINISHED***

[Ray_W]

I had entered into a build hiatus while waiting for my chosen subject for the MTO GB to arrive. With the current COVID-19 implications, and the possible impact on supply, receiving it within time is a concern. So, a visit to the LHS was warranted to see if there was an appropriate subject on the shelf . One that I could get into immediately. Preferably, with everything in the box - no aftermarket required.

 

The LHS do have an exceptional armour selection and a good range of MiniArt's Lee and Grant Offerings. A Grant - what a great subject!  With wallet in one hand and the chosen subject in the other, without the detailed interior, it was time to part with some cash and get it home and on the bench.

 

A bit of a change of pace from my aircraft builds and one that I always really enjoy. AFV's are a great circuit breaker. So here it is, brand new, not even out of the plastic bags. 

 

 

Once I had the kit back, I then took a quick look to see what other armour was under construction in the GB.  I discovered that we will have a squadron of 1/35 Grants with the Takom from @SoftScience and another MiniArt from Enzo @Enzo Matrix .  Understandable, it's a very cool subject. So we have a mini Grant GB within the GB - could be a 7th Armoured Division rat plague!

 

I have not chosen the final scheme. I think we all like the 3-colour scheme with highlighted olive drab. I will pick something a little different.  Will post that soon and hope to be into the construction this weekend. 

 

Looking forward to launching into the build with hopefully a fitting result.

 

Ray

 

[Ozzy]

The more the merrier Ray.

[Ray_W]

I have decided on a scheme - Deserts Rats El Alamein. 

 

 

Now on the hunt to see if there exists any images of this machine.

 

Ray

 

[Ray_W]

I have completed the hull and side plates.  My idea was to get it to a stage where I could check the fit of the roof and rear engine cover panels to make sure everything is square. I tended to jump around the instructions to get it to this stage leaving off the smaller and ancillary pieces. 

 

 

I need not of worried . The fit is exemplary. There are a number of parts involved, but if you ensure the edges match up nicely it presents no problem. In fact a delightful build thus far with no issues to report.

 

Here it is top cover taped in place.

 

 

Looking at all those openings and the detail provided by MiniArt, I can see why this is such an excellent kit for the full interior version. Very tempting. I might have to buy another and do the Aussie Grant fully opened up. This one though will be closed up with the exception of the Commander's turret hatch and driver's vision port. Hopefully I can get some appropriate figures in time. I can then place the driver inside otherwise it will commander only.

 

 

I will need to use a little filler in the font transmission cover casting around those axle extensions. Again, excellent detail from MiniArt. 

 

 

Time to add a few more pieces and then hit the interior with some white even though not much of this will be visible.

 

Ray

 

 

[Ozzy]

Nice progress Ray, I'm tempted to look for one of these myself.

[Ray_W]

3 hours ago, Ozzy said:

I'm tempted to look for one of these myself.

Ozzy,

If it keeps progressing as it is, I can say you will not be disappointed. Let's see what the running gear and track links are like.

Ray

[alt-92]

I guess you've taken a gander at The_Chieftain's Grant inside the hatch series on YT?

part 1

part 2

Great for internal details - lots of shell holders!

[SoftScience]

Looks like a far less obnoxious build than the Takom kit. And it looks like all your many angles line up  

 

I really should get back to mine. It would be cool to see the two models going together more or less side by side.

[Ray_W]

2 hours ago, SoftScience said:

Looks like a far less obnoxious build than the Takom kit. And it looks like all your many angles line up

Well, it is certainly not Tamiya. Location devices are small and gluing edges very narrow, but it does build up very nicely. Just about everything is a thin plate to be located, joined and glued. You can see this is the trade-off to also be able to do a highly detailed interior with the same plastic. I found it not a problem and really enjoyable. In fact, taking your time and being sure of the positioning would result, I'm sure, in perfect joins. The only area where I could of done better was on the left side at the top plate and that rear vertical plate join.. Although most if this will close up when the top plate is glued in position. Maybe a little sliver of filler will still be needed. 

 

 

You need to be a little careful with the internal transmission cover B26. The location devices appear to be part of the sprue and can easily be removed. I realised only after I had started to remove one. With the tank closed up, I can't see the purpose of part B26. Maybe a little extra stiffness across that front end. 

 

 

The instructions install the twin .30 cal machine gun option on the front glacis. I thought I would have to modify this to eliminate the MG's and then found all three options on the sprue. Excellent, thank you MiniArt. Now it I need to decide if I want to use B51 or B52.

 

 

8 hours ago, alt-92 said:

I guess you've taken a gander at The_Chieftain's Grant inside the hatch series on YT?

Thanks for the link. Yes I had watched this. One good thing about this build is appreciating the role the M3 Grant fulfilled in WW2. Quite a useful tank right through the war.  

 

Ray

[Ray_W]

I wanted to complete the driver and have him in the driver's position finished before the top deck was glued in place. I have no figures with me so another visit to the LHS was in order. They have (in both shops) an excellent range but nothing suitable for my needs.  What to do? The obvious, buy a kit that has what you want.

 

I have always wanted to build the Matilda. It brings back fond memories of one that use to sit in Hargraves, NSW, that as kids we would climb into and all over (🤔I wondered what happened to it?). The Tamiya kit has a Commander and a driver that I can use. So part with more cash, a nice kit to build and the figures I want.

 

 

The driver has no headphones so I had to scratch build those. I also reshaped his beret to suit - no Milliput needed just a little filing. 

 

 

I sat him on a bit of card that I will glue onto the top of the transmission cover (yes it has a use). Stuck a piece of 2 mm rod into him and passed it through the card. I can then easily adjust him up and down to get the right position.

 

 

He looks very comfortable even without a butt.

 

 

I was in two minds regarding goggles. He should be wearing some. Could I fabricate something that would look the part? I shaped the end of a piece of clear styrene and then parted off a couple of lenses. Glued them to his face with some temporary PVA to see if I like the effect.

 

 

The answer is yes. So I will remove the lenses, polish and make them up by adding a nose bridge, painting the sides, adding some straps and have them ready for when I finish the figure painting. The next step. 

 

Ray

 

 

Edited October 13, 2020 by Ray_W
typo

[GREG DESTEC]

Looking good Ray!

 

I look forward to see your figure painting. I have a Tamiya Pz IV I am thinking of doing for the GB but the crew that comes with the kit are not suitable for DAK. 

 

Cheers Greg 👍

[Ray_W]

22 hours ago, GREG DESTEC said:

I look forward to see your figure painting.

Greg,  So am I! It has been a long time since I've done some figure painting.  Looking forward to it and it is getting close.

 

Seeing I had done the driver, I thought, I may as well push on and complete the Commander. I assembled the turret, cupola and hatch covers  to "fit" one of the Matilda guys.  I turned a couple of these guys , talking in a very relaxed state  on top of the Matilda, into someone with a job to do. Swapped and repositioned arms, head, hands (I pinned these before gluing). Then glued and used some Milliput as filler with CA/Talc on his wrist. Smoothed the edges and filed the fabric folds and gave him a headset with reshaped beret. Drilled a hole in his hand ready to accept a microphone. Here he is adjusted before fillers and filing.

 

 

And here he is ready for a wash to remove some dust and filings and then some undercoat to check for defects.

 

I think the filler on his wrist looks like a wristwatch. It gave me the idea that, by rights, he should have one so I will scratch something for him.

 

 

 

 

He looks the part. Now the fun really begins.

 

Ray

[Enzo the Magnificent]

On 11/10/2020 at 12:43, Ray_W said:

I need not of worried . The fit is exemplary. There are a number of parts involved, but if you ensure the edges match up nicely it presents no problem. In fact a delightful build thus far with no issues to report.

 

I have just made a similar comment in my own build thread.  Considering the complexity of the assembly, the fit is astonishing. 

 

You are quite a bit further on in your build than I am.   

[Enzo the Magnificent]

On 12/10/2020 at 18:42, Ray_W said:

I have always wanted to build the Matilda. It brings back fond memories of one that use to sit in Hargraves, NSW, that as kids we would climb into and all over (🤔I wondered what happened to it?). The Tamiya kit has a Commander and a driver that I can use. So part with more cash, a nice kit to build and the figures I want.

 

 

 

Check out Tiger Model Designs.

 

https://tigermodeldesigns.com 

 

They have a nice set to convert the Tamiya kit into an Australian vehicle.     I have one of their sets for a BEF vehicle which I hope to build if the Blitzkrieg GB gets through the Bunfight. 

[Ray_W]

7 hours ago, Enzo Matrix said:

 

You are quite a bit further on in your build than I am. 

 

One area I decided to just glue was the 37 mm gun into its cradle. The gun is retained by two small clamps on the centre bearing housings as shown in the following image. These allow the gun to elevate. There is no retention in the left or right hand side bearing housings. This provides a weak retention system with really insufficient gluing area. Nice detail but not practical.

 

 

Also, difficult to glue in place without seizing the mechanism. I was able to glue it the first time, without locking everything up. As soon as I elevated the gun, they separated. Did it again with some CA bolstering the polystyrene cement - same result. Thought of pinning and then thought why have that complication when I will not want to elevate the gun anyway. It will be sure to separate at a most inconvenient time. So, glued it in place.

 

8 hours ago, Enzo Matrix said:

Check out Tiger Model Designs.

 

https://tigermodeldesigns.com 

 

They have a nice set to convert the Tamiya kit into an Australian vehicle.    

 

Enzo, thanks for the link.  Nice stuff I will just have to pursue.

 

Ray

[Alex Gordon]

23 hours ago, Ray_W said:

 

G'day old fruit,what is it about this photo that makes me think that the man is calling somebody something very rude?

Looking good so far .

[Ray_W]

 

 

11 minutes ago, Alex Gordon said:

makes me think that the man is calling somebody something very rude

 

Hi Alex, Yes, I agree, something like "*@#**n 88!" . I like his expression. Not bad for kit plastic. 

 

Ray

[Retired Bob]

Hi Ray, I'm busy with my Panther in that GB, I have a Takom Grant in my stash, my plan was to build it as a Russian lend lease machine or as the soviets called them, a coffin for 7 brothers.  A good start to your build and your usual meticulous work, this will be worth watching. 

[Ray_W]

14 hours ago, Retired Bob said:

I'm busy with my Panther in that GB

I am certainly enjoying this armour build, makes the Panther GB very tempting. 

 

 

 

And back to the current build. I have started checking the interesting three-tone scheme proposed by MiniArt.

 

 

MiniArt call it up as a Battle of El Alamein Oct-Nov 1942 Grant. I have found no evidence to support it. According to this site:

 

 http://the.shadock.free.fr/sherman_minutia/manufacturer/m3grant/m3grant.html

 

23505 would be in the first British M3 order from the Baldwin Locomotive Works. Actually, it is the second serial number in the full series of 685 that Baldwin produced to British orders - an early M3 Grant, order October 1941. The photos of this tank knocked out, place it at the Battle of Gazala. It is a well photographed wreck with DAK troops climbing over it and not necessarily all at the same time. A Battle of Gazala casualty would make more sense.

 

 

 

 

The following photos appear to be at a different time. Possibly earlier being inspected prior to being stripped for anything useful:

 

 

 

I am not convinced that green, as proposed by MiniArt, was used on the upper surfaces, unless some British armour experts can confirm that this could be the case.  The darkening of the top surfaces could just be wear (regularly climbed all over and wearing down to green), battle damage (blast, smoke, heat), weathering (sitting out in the desert). It does appear to be a two-tone camouflage finish - three-tone is questionable? 

 

The images do confirm the blanking of the twin 0.30 calibre MG installation in the front glacis. 

 

I will keep researching 7th Armoured Division M3 Grants to settle on a subject. In the mean time, the build continues.

 

Ray

 

 

[GREG DESTEC]

Hi Ray,

 

Well done finding an image of the actual vehicle. I have seen some colour photos on line that suggest disruptive green camo in some cases with a thin white or grey outline. I guess these are probably colourised. 

 

Maybe someone over in the armour section of the forum could confirm for sure? 

Looking forward to your next update.

 

Cheers Greg

[Retired Bob]

4 hours ago, Ray_W said:

I am not convinced that green, as proposed by MiniArt, was used on the upper surfaces, unless some British armour experts can confirm that this could be the case.  The darkening of the top surfaces could just be wear (regularly climbed all over and wearing down to green), battle damage (blast, smoke, heat), weathering (sitting out in the desert). It does appear to be a two-tone camouflage finish - three-tone is questionable? 

I have had a look in my book: Warpaint Vol 2, they have the Grant painted in Light Stone over the original O/D, the light stone colour wore very quickly.  This was in compliance with General Order, 1272, dated 5th December 1941 that stated Light Stone or Portland Stone were to be the basic colour, however one contrasting colour may be selected by Commanders to complete the camouflage scheme.

Hope this helps.

[Ray_W]

@Retired Bob

 

Thanks Bob for the input.

 

Possibly MiniArt is representing top side wear through to the USA, as supplied, green colour. My plan is for an early Grant finished in Light Stone with some modest wear on traffic areas starting to show the original colour. I have not decided on the appropriate colour for the locally applied disruptive scheme and will select colours according to Mike Starmer's research and I quote: 

 

Oct.1941 – Signal 4/105 calls for one base tone No 61 Light Stone only now to be used before issue to units, G.O. 297 is cancelled.

December 5 1941 M.E.G.O. 1273 calls for one basic colour, either Portland or Light Stone with only one colour over at the discretion of Commands.  At first this may have been Slate, in patches or larger areas but later S.C.C.7 green, Silver Grey No. 28 and black brown have been noted in apparently random patterns.  A whole range of brigade inspired designs came and went from early 1942 until October 1942 when these steadily disappeared.  

 

Source: https://www.mafva.org/british-vehicle-camouflage-1939-45/?v=79cba1185463

 

 I will replicate the pattern per the photos and MiniArt profiles and all will be Tamiya mixes.

 

Ray

 

[Ray_W]

Due to quite a busy week, I was unable to spend much time at the bench and none in daylight hours with the benefit of its additional light for figure painting (preferred). So, I shifted my attention back to the kit and its running gear.

 

There are a number of parts involved, not excessive, and they go together well with minimal clean up required. I found it easier to make 3 sub-assemblies and then clip the roller swing arm assembly into the top frame.

 

 

I needed to use a small rat tail file to open up most of the holes involved (rollers and torque arms) as the fit is too tight. I did not have a drill, something around 2.1 mm being needed, or the ultimate solution, a reamer of the right size, so had to resort to the file. Having done that they went together very nicely.

 

 

One small detail point. The side retainers have a very nicely moulded castellated lock nut on one side. They can be reversed. MiniArt do not specify which side they go on. Their assembly drawings show no castellated nut.

 

 

Looking at period photos, no castellated nut is visible.

 

 

With restored versions I see David Fletcher's M3 Grant YouTube video shows no castellated nut. The only time I have seen them is in Nick Moran's The Chieftain YouTube Australian M3 Grant. Maybe the Australians did fit them. For an early M3 Grant at the Battle of Gazala, decision made, no castellated nut on the outside.

 

If glued carefully, all rollers rotate and the rolling gear assembly allows movement rocking backward and forward on the torque arms. There is no compression. Therefore, there is no advantage in weighting the model other than if you want the torque arms to deflect. As I will be portraying the finish model on a flat surface, I could see no advantage in preserving the movement as it just weakens the rolling gear. So after gluing each assembly in place and placing the model on a flat surface and ensuring the torque arms were correctly engaged in their retaining slots on the swing arm and all rollers were touching the "ground", I glued everything in position. The torque arm final position looks good compared to the above photo.

 

 

So this job is finished.

 

Oops! Must remember to glue those small webs in place, part Ed7, all 12 of them.

 

 

Ray

[Ray_W]

Because I was into cutting plastic I thought it might be a good idea to start making tracks and break up the work load. In fact, the experience of preparing and assembling the tracks was not too bad. Mainly because there is negligible, if any, flash to contend with. It really depends on how neatly you remove from the sprue and as the plastic is soft a sharp scalpel gives a neat separation. So with a podcast going, in this case Steven Zaloga, I launched into preparing parts.

 

 

MiniArt do not provide a track jig so I made one from polystyrene card and square stock and assembly is straight forward. Assemble the pieces, a little bit of Tamiya Extra Thin in the cavity.

 

 

Push into place the internal plate and carry on.

 

 

I was planning to only assemble a few, there are 79 links a side, but it is pleasant enough to just keep going.

 

All assembled and ready for some painting. 

 

 

Ray 

Edited October 18, 2020 by Ray_W
Added Photo

[Ray_W]

Completed the Commander and Driver. Used some 0.2 mm lead wire for the cables. Scratch built his microphone and their head sets.

 

Accidently cracked his right wrist putting in his microphone. Glued in place but difficult to hide. I think I will cheat and drape the microphone cable over his wrist when I finally place him in his cupola. 

 

 

I was happy with the fabric shading although it seems to have disappeared in the photos. I used oils over an acrylic base. A lot of fun. 

 

Finally, I have glued the driver in place so I can proceed and glue that top deck in place and continue with the build.

 

 

His face turned out OK so I stuck his goggles on his forehead. Shaped clear sprue, parted off painted with an orange clear tint with Tamiya tape straps. Lens surrounds and tape painted in a "Sail" colour.

 

 

Commander positioned to see how he looks.

 

 

All OK so next job will be getting that hull together.

 

Ray