A question regarding washes

[Maurice William Hilarius]

I am doing an aircraft model currently  ( Wyvern 1:48 by Trumpeter) and am approaching doing the weathering and washes.

Does anyone have any warnings or advice about using enamel washes such as the MIG stuff, over Tamiya acrylic paints?

I was planning on applying a clear semi-gloss over the pigment colours, and then the wash and weathering elements.
Anyone have a dire warning, for example?

Thanks!

[Ray_W]

I use enamel washes both proprietary brands like AK and my own artist oil washes. Currently using Abteilung Oil Colours as a base. They seem well designed for modeller's needs, are less oily and do not require as much time to wick away the excess oil on a piece of paper or cardboard. I have not used MIG.

 

For thinners I typically use lighter fluid (naptha) for a more rapid dry, and artist supply odourless thinners for more working time. 

 

I always protect the paint coat, which is often Tamiya aqueous acrylic paints, with an over spray of a clear coat. This is usually after decals so they become part of the same finishing process. I currently using Gunze clear gloss lacquer GX-100 or GX-112 with Mr Color Leveling Thinners. I also occasionally use Tamiya acrylic aqueous X-22 gloss instead of the Gunze lacquer. I leave the clear coat finish overnight before doing any washes. This is less of a concern for possible reaction, but moreso to enhance mechanical strength of the gloss coat and the underlying paint.

 

Once washes and effects are done, I leave for another 12 hours minimum before a clear coat in gloss, satin or flat or mix depending on the result I'm looking for.

 

In all cases I have found no reaction from the enamel or oil washes with the Tamiya with a clear coat on. I still find they can be prone to mechanical damage so remain careful removing any excess or wash or application of specific wash or oil paints for post effects. 

 

I do leave extended drying/curing times between processes. You can shorten these although in my experience, I find there is no need to rush and like the extra time as an added caution as I am typically using paints with different chemistry. The extended drying times reduces the potential for compatibility issues.

 

The above method is my usual and has been for some time. Works for me.

 

Ray 

[Maurice William Hilarius]

1 hour ago, Ray_W said:

I use enamel washes both proprietary brands like AK and my own artist oil washes. Currently using Abteilung Oil Colours as a base. They seem well designed for modeller's needs, are less oily and do not require as much time to wick away the excess oil on a piece of paper or cardboard. I have not used MIG.

 

For thinners I typically use lighter fluid (naptha) for a more rapid dry, and artist supply odourless thinners for more working time. 

 

I always protect the paint coat, which is often Tamiya aqueous acrylic paints, with an over spray of a clear coat. This is usually after decals so they become part of the same finishing process. I currently using Gunze clear gloss lacquer GX-100 or GX-112 with Mr Levelling Thinners. I also occasionally use Tamiya acrylic aqueous X-22 gloss instead of the Gunze lacquer. I leave the clear coat finish overnight before doing any washes. This is less of a concern for possible reaction, but moreso to enhance mechanical strength of the gloss coat and the underlying paint.

 

Once washes and effects are done, I leave for another 12 hours minimum before a clear coat in gloss, satin or flat or mix depending on the result I'm looking for.

 

In all cases I have found no reaction from the enamel or oil washes with the Tamiya with a clear coat on. I still find they can be prone to mechanical damage so remain careful removing any excess or wash or application of specific wash or oil paints for post effects. 

 

I do leave extended drying/curing times between processes. You can shorten these although in my experience, I find there is no need to rush and as extra caution as I am typically using paints with different chemistry. The extended drying times reduces the potential for compatibility issues.

 

The above method is my usual and has been for some time. Works for me.

 

Ray 

Thanks Ray, very thorough and detailed answer.
I had purchased the X-22 for this purpose and then wondered if I was creating a problem for myself.
Good to know that this should work.

[Ray_W]

48 minutes ago, Maurice William Hilarius said:

I had purchased the X-22 for this purpose and then wondered if I was creating a problem for myself.

The X-22 Tamiya aqueous acrylic goes down very well with the more aggressive lacquer thinner Mr Color Leveling Thinner. If I am putting an X-22 clear coat on something where I might worry about the lacquer thinner being a little too aggressive, I then thin with the designed for alcohol based thinners like Tamiya X-20A (currently using Gunze's Mr Hobby Hobby Color Thinner). Although, I have never had a problem with X-22 and Mr Color Leveling Thinner over Tamiya aqueous acrylics.

 

Just a thought maybe the Administrators should move this thread to "Paint"

 

Ray

[Maurice William Hilarius]

8 hours ago, Ray_W said:

The X-22 Tamiya aqueous acrylic goes down very well with the more aggressive lacquer thinner Mr Color Leveling Thinner. If I am putting an X-22 clear coat on something where I might worry about the lacquer thinner being a little too aggressive, I then thin with the designed for alcohol based thinners like Tamiya X-20A (currently using Gunze's Mr Hobby Hobby Color Thinner). Although, I have never had a problem with X-22 and Mr Color Leveling Thinner over Tamiya aqueous acrylics.

 

Just a thought maybe the Administrators should move this thread to "Paint"

 

Ray

Thanks Roy.
Good point with the suggestion for where this should be..
Perhaps I can move it?
Let's see..