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G.W.H 1/144 RAF TSR2 with a twist.


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Hello everyone.      I’ve not built a model in the last 12 months and I need a little light relief from my other ongoing build. I’ve looked at this for some time, it’s diminutive size and looks like an easy build.

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I decided earlier in the year to have a look at this kit, when it comes to building a kit or A/C type in numbers I like to make each one different. I’ve stopped building what if models some years ago, but a look at the kit supplied decals just don’t please me, I’ve picked up some replacements. This point has formed and forced the route I’m going to take. So far this year I’ve spent some time refreshing my memory  and I’ve invested time and money into making my own TSR2 model. With my 1/72 + 1/48 kits final looks set in stone, this had left this model without a purpose. This has been resolved now. 
 

That’s all for now, stay safe.

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Hello everyone.

 

This project started some six months ago. With the Covid19 lockdown in full effect, how I buy stuff was changing, books are an emotive problem for me, lovely cover - lousy content, then something not on my radar can be an amazing god send. So, seeing stuff and giving it a thumb has saved me from some very expensive mistakes.
I’ve bought books from Justin at Bookworld Wholesale for a long time, buying being exclusively at model shows, that’s all now changed. I try to support companies where I can, so, Justin- Bookworld now sends me various emails, new arrivals and more importantly sale items.

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Pre-script.....Some time ago when this book first came out I dismissed it because it felt like a What-If book , sadly just thumbing at a model show didn’t do it justice. What I wanted was something else all about XR219....... Then came a half price deal from Justin, so I took a punt.

Having read it cover to cover I now get the book, it’s all about what would have happened had it got into service, it’s jam packed with a lot of details and made an easy read. 
The G.W.H model...... it needed and identity, a reason to be in my collection. Having read the above book now what I wanted was some What-If bits, having browsed the internet it now became clear I’m some 10 yrs too late. Oups!

The kit..... With both 1/72 + 1/48 decals in my stash for XR219 , the thought of another one didn’t sit well, a look at the G.W.H decals shows them to be less than authentic. Their fate was sealed. Next the kit. A look online shows a separate boxing of this kit is available, the additional spruce is in the box. (4 pylons 4 Martell weapons and the big ferry fuel tank) 

The kit build...... The twist.......

1) Build the basic kit out of the box, the twist - add the pylons and belly tank......

2) Not content with the above, the twist - scratch build a few other things........

3) The decals, I really wanted something like XS660, no less than 3 sheets of decals bought in the hope of something fitting, the twist - anything but TSR2.


That’s all for now, stay safe. 😃

 

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Hello everyone.

 

Starting the build, I’m not going into a detailed blow by blow, it has to move along with a bit of pace.

The kit instructions....stage 1 ....  wot they wanted, glue the upper and lwr wings and the upper and lwr fuselage sections together. Just didn’t look right. Stage 6 is where the engine/fuselage side skins go on.........

 

The upper wing...... ignore the 4 holes (unless you’ve got some plans for over wing weapons.) The knockout pin marks are troublesome and a swift bit of work with the craft knife sorted them out.

 

The lower wing..... internally 4 holes are given for the pylons ( I’ve opened them out with a 0.5mm drill bit) and externally 4 enscribed circles are given. As the kit is about test TSR2’s , the additional sprue is not mentioned.

 

The fuselage half’s..... these are sublime pieces of engineering, but, I stopped gluing together at the nose U/C bay leaving the rear fuse to flap around for now.....

 

The engine intakes/ side skins...... I just was not convinced sliding them into position was the way forward. So, I’ve deviated.

 

I’ve read that having the main U/C close is problematic...... G.W.H commendably give both open and close U/C doors and the open doors are commendably scale thin, but, the closed doors are a little too thin. I started by gluing scrap plastic stock tabs for the upper u/c doors so as they wouldn’t be pushed in. Then gluing the lower u/c were glued in place then some plastic rod was used to strengthen the assembly.

 

Free to accept the side skins.

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The R/H intake shows why I didn’t take the risk.

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With a little care, and a little plastic stock to help along.

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Where my finger and thumb are it’s a little too tight, I’ve taken a different approach.

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Coming along nicely, until next time, stay safe.

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Hello everyone.   Small model - small updates.

 

The flaps, I was looking forward to having them in the dropped position, but, they come with a square fwd edge. And they’re not the best fit. A little work is required, some filing and fettling of the lower wing fingers.

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The long range fuel tank..... the kit comes with a display stand ( a throwback to my childhood,) if you’re not bothered with it then that’s ok as it’s position is covered, the standard model continues. Come the large fuel tank and G.W.H have seen fit to open it’s position, so, with a little bit of plastic stock cut to size the hole was filled in. And some sink marks filled in.

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A little bit of re-work. The R/H main U/C bay is the only big area for some scribing. But, there are lots of minor miss alignment areas and some sink marks around the nose. 
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Things to come. For my what-if project, I quite fancy a refuelling probe and a dorsal ‘Blooming window dispenser’. Time for some scratch building.....

 

Thats all for now, stay safe. 🙂

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hello everyone.    Small model- small updates.

 

It’s been a week or three,  I’ve done lots of little bits of work here and there, so, not a lot to report. ..... some rescribing and a little filler and even the wing has been fitted. Two sessions of primer has revealed a few flaws requiring a little bit more attention.

 

Onto the all important detail changes.  I’ve fancied a TSR2 with a refuelling probe and a dorsal Rapidly Blooming Window dispenser for some time.  A company (I think they’re French?) called Retro Wings, they do several updates for this G.W.H kit, one of which is the dorsal chaff dispenser. But, the product photo just didn’t please me, so I’ve given it a go at making my own. 
 

When it’s just not your day but you just don’t know it.        The flight refuelling probe, I started out with small round plastic stock, the same stuff I’d used to reinforce the undercarriage doors, cut to size, filled a flat on one side then finally rounded both ends. Easy, job done.  A thought about the refuelling probes position: I’ve positioned the probe a little further fwd so that the probe when extended would be in line with the pilots cockpit. This goes against most of the drawings where it is drawn further rearward which would mean the pilot have to look over his shoulder. Secondly, the probes rearward position in the drawings are wrong. There are two square panels (above the camera bay) what is not really apparent is that roll sensors are there. So from XR219 and XR220 the refuelling probe would not be fitted over these panels. You can just see the rear of the probe above the incorrect panel (circular).

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When it’s just not your day.... Pt I. I made a Rapidly Blooming Window dispenser from memory, then I broke out the Lost tomorrow’s of an Eagle book by SAM Productions. A check revealed I just wasn’t close, but it did look good 😀. So I just had to make a better representation, the basic shaped second attempt looked better. 😃

 

Pt II. Becouse the dispenser was so long the theory would have it that the dispenser assembly would have to be flexible to take the loads inflicted by the fuselage flexing. First to be added was the fuel vent, a simple drilled hole was made. Then some scribing of lines to segregate the chaff dispenser into three. I used some speed tape and scribed away.... then result was some really wonky lines...🤪 These were filled and done again, this time I did them free hand.

 

Pt III. The drawings show the dispenser with what would be flares and chaff as details. For this I’ve pondered how to depict something. My first attempt, I made a jig for Rosie the riveter , it held the dorsal dispenser solid, I rolled the wheel along its guide. The first roll looked lovely, some nice indentations , I should have stopped there, but I rolled it backwards, and departed it’s guide. More wonky lines.  😬

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Pt IV. One of my modelling aids has a set of serrations to which I made this a jig, only to get my spacing of my dotting wrong as well. Lots of filler and frustration. 🤔

 

Pt V. Pt I. Having had a brake of modelling interrupted by work and time for some fresh thinking.... 

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A much thinner depiction drawn here, making my rendition look bulky.
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......and that big ferry tank.

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Having used Archer resin rivet lines before I now felt that instead of depicting the details as divots, now time to try raised details. Having cut and placed them as I wanted, everything looked good. Until,  I broke out the airbrush for primer, and the decals lifted off with the air pressure , so no adherence here.

 

Pt IV Pt II. This time around the Archer decals were applied with wet future polish and another layer applied later on. Finally job done. 😁
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It’s a large looking hump.
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Thats all for now, stay safe.

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TSR2 is one aircraft that I really need in my collection... I've seen both surviving examples multiple times, but I have never built a model of one. 1/144 is ideal really, just the GWH/Pit Road kit seems to be a little hard to get right now

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Regarding the refuelling probe, the pilot doesn't need to see it. They line up with guide marks on the tanker rather than looking at the probe and the drogue. Doing the latter makes it a lot harder to make contact.

 

Fab looking machine, though!

 

Al

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Quote

Regarding the refuelling probe, the pilot doesn't need to see it. They line up with guide marks on the tanker rather than looking at the probe and the drogue. Doing the latter makes it a lot harder to make contact.


Morning Al H.

 

30 yrs in the aircraft business and I didn’t know that, I really appreciated that info. I don’t recall at any time 20 Sqn Tonkers in Germany needing to practice AAR, though the pilots must have been proficient in it before we went to Saudi for a little scrap and to Canada some years later. I must have got the incorrect notion from working on Typhoons, because of where it’s probe is on the airframe. 

 

9 hours ago, Adam Poultney said:

TSR2 is one aircraft that I really need in my collection... I've seen both surviving examples multiple times, but I have never built a model of one. 1/144 is ideal really, just the GWH/Pit Road kit seems to be a little hard to get right now


Adam , I was in MJR Hobbies new shop the other week and they have one in for (I think) £25 and I think Hannants have it in stock as well. eBay still have a vendor asking close to £50. Gulp.
 

10 hours ago, Col. said:

This is getting interesting. You're putting a good measure of thought into the execution of this one.


Thanks for looking and the support.

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3 hours ago, amos brierley said:


Morning Al H.

 

30 yrs in the aircraft business and I didn’t know that, I really appreciated that info. I don’t recall at any time 20 Sqn Tonkers in Germany needing to practice AAR, though the pilots must have been proficient in it before we went to Saudi for a little scrap and to Canada some years later. I must have got the incorrect notion from working on Typhoons, because of where it’s probe is on the airframe. 

 

I've been reading too many books 😁 Don't think the RAFG squadrons expected to use AAR in their war role, so probably not high on their list of skills to practise.  Also I don't think there were enough probes for the whole fleet.

 

I guess it's useful to have the probe visible by the pilot in case they run into problems, like they snag the basket or something. Like most things in a/c design it's probably a trade off between where you'd like to put the probe and where there's room.

 

Al

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Hello everyone.            I’m getting a little ahead of myself.

 

The kit decals are a little bit naff in my opinion. This is what I think, with another TSR2 on the go I didn’t fancy in this instance doing another correct rendition. This is confirmed with a look at the decals themselves, the roundles , the pale blue is too blue and the pink is mostly red. You only get letters to make the three famous machines, this really hamstrings you. Finally you don’t get a full compliment of stencils, the worst bit is that you get the tail plane ‘no walk ways’ but nothing for the wing.

 

Finding replacement TSR2 decals is a hiding to nothing. The first thing I did was to pick up something I thought was close, a set of Cut Then Apply  V bombers. These just don’t come close, the TSR2 is considerably small than say a Vulcan and the roundle s are massive. Even the stencils are not appealing.

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My best guess next was a set of Xtradecal Blackburn Beverley. I just looked at the decals themselves, 105Sqn stands out just because of the size of them. Finding a set of tail codes has been the hardest part of what I wanted to do I really wanted to do XS660 with pale colours. What I have is an influencer of the finished result. XP412’s line of decals has the smallest and best option for squadron badges and tail art.

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Finally another set of Xtradecal, Typhoon, was picked up on the off chance. I wasn’t sure of their size, and at first glance they seemed to be far too small. But I persevered and have found a ‘Johnny Walker’ decal for nose art and some Wing Commanders ensigns . These are just visible, I’ve marked them out with pencil.
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When it comes to what-if models, in this case it’s got to have one foot in reality and one foot in the ‘if’.  For those modellers that know me they know that I don’t shy away from a paint challenge. But, this diminutive model is challenging my thinking. So I’m looking to go white for the bit of reality, my driver is both the decals at hand and the Dorsal Blooming Window dispenser, which I want to show it off. I think if the kit was to receive some form of green/gray then both the decals and will not stand out in this scale and say a silver chaff dispenser will look naff. So, I think that a white A/C with a silver chaff dispenser and high vis decals is the way to go. 
 

That’s all for now,     Stay safe. 😉

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hello everyone.               A quick update.

 

      Dont know where to start, so, after some deliberation here goes. Some months ago I was having a lull in my other TSR2, recently things had been picking up , but the wheels have fell off my wagon this week.
       Ten days ago I managed to pick up a sprained ankle and had to go off work sick... No great shakes.Then one of my children fell ill , and you’ll know what I’m about to say, yes tested positive for COVID-19. Then whilst self isolating I’d spent some time on the home computer, my time shuffling A/C photos had put excess pressure on an elbow. I’ve now got a massive lump and extensive bruising, it’s called Bercitus . It’s a massive pain and is impacting my arm movement, so some good modelling has come to a halt again.
      Now with Covid in the house it’s only a matter of time for the next in line, yes Mrs B has fallen ill. Both are ok. This is also impacting all things..........

 

    Modelling, I’d had a good session of airbrushing but a moment of carelessness whilst putting my compressor away saw me damage the air hose. I sheared it off at the connection. No problems, just order a new one.  For some time I’ve failed to find a small air leak and it’s properly irked me, all my air connections are P.T.F.E taped. Thankfully re-connecting my water trap revealed the next problem, the plastic body was cracked. I had the water trap in my hand when I turned on the compressor, as the compressor reached a higher pressure the crack revealed it’s self. The fix - some super glue and activator- no more leaks. I love my Iwata Eclipse and, for some time the tip of the nozzle has felt rough, but it still produced good results. I’ve just sprayed the TSR2 wheels (as I was saying-things were now moving along nicely) and after cleaning the airbrush I noticed how the needle appeared to be excessively long, far too much protruding through the tip. So, after some ten years of abuse a new tip has been procured. This is where I’ve ground to a halt. 
 

Now with one arm in constant pain, it’s a good job this iPad has predictive text as this is where I’ve got to with one finger. I’ve been told that the pain and swelling may take up to three months to come good, that will be a massive blow for me. Hopefully some modelling of some form will be done in between deep cleaning the house and hopefully not being the next to fall ill ( not said or meant to be negative.) For now stay positive, stay safe. 😉

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3 hours ago, amos brierley said:

Hello everyone.               A quick update.

 

      Dont know where to start, so, after some deliberation here goes. Some months ago I was having a lull in my other TSR2, recently things had been picking up , but the wheels have fell off my wagon this week.
       Ten days ago I managed to pick up a sprained ankle and had to go off work sick... No great shakes.Then one of my children fell ill , and you’ll know what I’m about to say, yes tested positive for COVID-19. Then whilst self isolating I’d spent some time on the home computer, my time shuffling A/C photos had put excess pressure on an elbow. I’ve now got a massive lump and extensive bruising, it’s called Bercitus . It’s a massive pain and is impacting my arm movement, so some good modelling has come to a halt again.
      Now with Covid in the house it’s only a matter of time for the next in line, yes Mrs B has fallen ill. Both are ok. This is also impacting all things..........

 

    Modelling, I’d had a good session of airbrushing but a moment of carelessness whilst putting my compressor away saw me damage the air hose. I sheared it off at the connection. No problems, just order a new one.  For some time I’ve failed to find a small air leak and it’s properly irked me, all my air connections are P.T.F.E taped. Thankfully re-connecting my water trap revealed the next problem, the plastic body was cracked. I had the water trap in my hand when I turned on the compressor, as the compressor reached a higher pressure the crack revealed it’s self. The fix - some super glue and activator- no more leaks. I love my Iwata Eclipse and, for some time the tip of the nozzle has felt rough, but it still produced good results. I’ve just sprayed the TSR2 wheels (as I was saying-things were now moving along nicely) and after cleaning the airbrush I noticed how the needle appeared to be excessively long, far too much protruding through the tip. So, after some ten years of abuse a new tip has been procured. This is where I’ve ground to a halt. 
 

Now with one arm in constant pain, it’s a good job this iPad has predictive text as this is where I’ve got to with one finger. I’ve been told that the pain and swelling may take up to three months to come good, that will be a massive blow for me. Hopefully some modelling of some form will be done in between deep cleaning the house and hopefully not being the next to fall ill ( not said or meant to be negative.) For now stay positive, stay safe. 😉

Hi Amos

 

First off great work on your TSR2 you are making great strides to producing a first rate finished article. Really sorry to hear of your other woes, this whole COVID-19 situation is getting to be beyond a joke and the impact it’s taking really is becoming unbearable and as for your elbow I suffered with Bercitus a couple of years ago and I feel your pain (quite literally) mine swelled to the size of a large grapefruit and was very painful to touch but it only lasted for a week after I took antibiotics prescribed by my doctor.
 

I really nope things improve for you and your family real soon.

 

take care mate and chin up!

 

cheers

 

Iain 

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Just caught up with this thread. It’s turning into a lovely model and you’re doing a fine job there. Must get one.....🤔

 

As to your non modelling woes, 2020 seems to have hit your household hard and I hope you all get back to full health soon.

 

Trevor

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello everyone.              A long over due update.

 

Thanks to everyone for supporting me.

 

Things are looking good for now, I’ve managed to survive the two weeks of self isolating with only the two lady’s in the house having Covid. Trying to get weekly food shopping during a national lockdown was almost impossible......

 

My elbow swelling and pain are now reduced...... still some way off being able to just get on with things.

 

Work on this model started with a an overall grey coat of primer, then the tail pipes and the dorsal rapid blooming window dispenser received a coat of black primer. This is done in preparation of a coat of Alclad Duraluminium, lightly polished twice with micro mesh 3600 and two more coats. So far I’ve done nothing with the details on the sides of the dispenser, emphasising this detail will come later. The lumps are depicting the chaff and flare cartridges.

 

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The wheels are from Armoury, I’ve only invested in two after market products the other being a Master pitot probe. At a scale of 1/144 I had my doubts as to any benefits of a set of wheels in this scale, with just my eye sight the wheels don’t look much better, but with a magnifying glass the wheels are amazing. Lots of hub details wheel tread and even the tyre comes with sidewall details. But, no matter how much I tinker with them I just can’t photograph them properly. I started by spraying the wheel hubs Xtracolour X140 FS16622 this colour being a trial for British Light Aircraft Grey, then gave everything a brown wash. The one thing that I really wanted was the wheel hub details to pop out this time as trying to get black tyre looking round being a challenge. The last bit was to dry brush the tyre tread.

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The left over U/C paint was use as trial for pre-painting the tail surfaces, but an attempt with MRP flat white didn’t float my boat, the I’m not into 1/144 but pre-shading the fin didn’t go to plan. Needs a little more practice. This is a one off as I’m not into using flat paints.

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The cockpit has received a hand brushing of a medium sea grey paint, with the canopies being closed very little will be see. In a break from the TSR2 norm of having M.B Mk8 bang seat in silver this in service version has been depicted as black and lighter grey seat details.


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That’s all for now, stay safe. 😉

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello everyone.              It’s been a little while.

 

I’ve just finished work, and fancied giving an update. I’ve thought out the 1/72 kit update for this week but I’ve not given any thought until now about this thread. So, in a nutshell the kit was being a royal pain, the U/C had proved to be very problematic. I’m thinking with a new day (tomorrow ) and work out of my system, a few days off work until my last shift pattern will allow me to do this update properly.

 

Thank for looking, stay safe. 

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hello everyone.        Last update for this year.  😆

 

It’s been a little while. I thowt this model would be a quick build but it’s not to be. Some months ago our club members proposed that we should have something for the December meet , as to be expected nobody turned up with anything witch rubbed my rhubarb. I had a great chat with everyone......but, just leave me to do my own thing.......

 

I’ve struggled with things for the last few months, and now I’ve got the feeling I’m getting there, hopefully in my other TSR2 build when I find some time to catch up I’ll expand my thoughts. .....

 

My main modelling scale is 1/48 which I generally think suit’s me , so , 1/144 is proving to be a challenge.   One thing that I’ve really not been bothered with this model is accuracy or swapping out parts, but as usual things change.

 

My biggest stumbling block for this model was the U/C , generally a model can be made or broken from the wheels up , I have for many years checked the A/C stance and made corrections via the U/C.  Now, at 1/144 I just couldn’t get anything to form a decent bond, all of the mating surfaces are really small and difficult to work with. 
 

With hindsight. Up until now I was 99% certain that I never had a need for SAC detail sets (they’re just a white metal copy of the original) that was up until this build.  The main legs have a little flexibility in them and little to give concern. It’s the bogie assemblies and replacement wheels where the problems started. The nose U/C wheels (Armoury) just don’t fit the kit axle, so the fix, punch out some 20thou plastic as spacers then try align the wheels in all three axis. The main axles, no where for bonding  the bogie to the main leg so I drilled out both for my wire to reinforce. The next problem the (Armoury) resin wheels, they need to be drilled out, make them too small by just a few thou and alignment will be difficult. Too sloppy and it’s too difficult for alignment, six wheels in succession. My next problem was my wire as the bonding point for the bogie, this needed a tweak. With everything super glued together everything is very flexible, to flexible. This point took me just three weeks to play around with, slow, mind boggling, not a happy clapper. 
       The moral of the story, hmmmmm, the kit parts are troubling and the resin wheels are lovely but troublesome. That’s where in hindsight metal legs come out top, metal won’t flex and will bend to shape.

       G.W.H don’t give the modeller the ‘Aylesbury tie’ the mod for the U/C. Seen as a fix later on in the flight program of XR219. .......Time to break out the brass tubing.

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That flexibility caused me to break out some Araldite, that fine tubing was never going to stick. At 1/144 accuracy went out of the window. 
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The cockpit. As the model is going to be a what-if the that’s fine-and-dandy, for the purists (look away now) it’s not even the hintist bit accurate. That means a first for me , the cockpit is a focal, and I’m not a clean lines kind of guy. But at 1/144 the detail is just not there.....

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The canopies masked and painted Medium Sea Grey.

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The bang seats glued in place, rear instrument coming painted, front instrument coming painted black and dry brushes grey. One thing missing is the control column , in an open cockpit, this maybe an issue, so today I made made one out of brass stock. Tiny, tiny,tiny. Just in case......

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Canopies closed. A real first for me, the camera lied, the gaps look rather large...... It’s getting close to the end of the year, and my bottle of Japanese Gin (Roku)   🤓 has been polished off 🤪, my neighbours are still partying hard in the snow I”m a little drunk and I’ve a second fire work display to put on. So, this is me at 18 mins to midnight sighing off for the year. 

I’d very much like to thank everyone for the support you’ve given me in all of my posts this year ( it’s been a very emotional year and I’ve now got a tear or two welling up) and I’m now very much looking fwd to next year,   😀😉.

 

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

Hello everyone.            It’s been a little while, I’m trying to get my head back into the game, figuring out what went wrong some time ago is the easy part, dealing with the onset of frustration is the hardest part. 

        In a nutshell it’s best to describe me as a lone wolf that’s married with kids, it’s not been a problem up until now. That is until Covid-19 came along. Ggggggrrrrrr. Now with ‘lock downs’ being thrust upon us and periods of self isolation being endured, in a nutshell the constantly full house is properly brassing me right off. This situation is literally creating a situation of absolutely not a single thing is being done. Not a single thing. My shift days are 12 hrs long and the week is over and done in three days, great. But, for a good many years my free days meant time to freely do anything weather it’s mowing a lawn (in the sun)or spraying a model at my table in the living room and the subsequence of stinking it out with ceulose. Nice. Xmas made me think two weeks off and lots of modelling done, just the opposite. For weeks on end now just getting nothing done is my only achievement. And nothing seems to change. Time to put that bit behind me.........

 

Spraying white. This little model is difficult. To date I’ve only made two white models, both for customers and both TSR2’s. The first model being the large Dynavector 1/48 received the Halfords rattle can, ok for the time. Next came the Herritage kit, this I airbrushed but didn’t quite nail it.

 

Some months ago I sprayed the U/C and the un-used remainder got used on bits of the kit as a sort of pre-spray, I’m really not into it as you are really locked into what’s underneath. Then, some weeks ago I was doing some testing of paints on a scrap model and gave my TSR2 a go with some pure matt white. The test didn’t go well. I like to spray a model as every single panel separately. That’s really just not going to happen with this model, and the matt paint was a disaster. 
 

So, two weeks ago ( really just don’t get me started ) I managed to find a hour to be in my own head a summon some creative me thinking time. You’d think I’d have found time to pen this, but that single hour was it until now. I’ve not been using Gunzi paints for long but thought gloss white was the way to go. My initial mix ratio was a little too thick and a lot of splatter came out , so , some more thinning was needed. One of the problems with white that I’m finding out is that you’ll have to spray it ultra thin and build it up in translucent layers, great if your building a 1/72 Shackleton not so good at 1/144. 

Most of the model is just grey primer and the panel lines have been drawn in  pencil as a form of pre shading. The dorsal spine and silver exhausts have been masked off.

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The left tail plane is now white, with the right side in glossy U/C grey .
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Really not the best photo, but the fin leading edge is sort of showing what I’m getting at. Those tiny-tiny leading edge panels just can’t create a  shadow panel line.....
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This photo only just shows the work in progress. What I’m trying to achieve is a white model with a sort of off white panel lines and some form of blotchy appearance. Not looking way too grubby and not pristine white. And certainly not both of those forms put together. ( My brain is suffering from some form of fade, I’ m trying to think of an art form I’ve used in the past, this elusive word - is what I don’t want my model to look like.) I’ll get back to you on this....
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What I’m trying to achieve is some form of scale appearance especially the panel lines to look accurate. And subtle. The left hand tail plane in natural light is very pleasing, the panel lines look very nice indeed, but the white still needs another coat to firm up its white-ness. What I’m very much not trying to do is create any pure white spots of which I’ve managed to do. These have been created by simply not moving the airbrush enough. So, the answer is to keep the paint thin enough to be able to work with it and the airbrush moving at all times, but, some how to fill in the little panels without damaging the pre-shading effect. How I normally create my paint effects is by posy shading, it’s very much more controllable, but this is white we’re talking about, so, post shade it with what??? I’m hoping you’re going to tell me to use 

say an F.S numbers white (off white).......and as for panel lines, well, ........I have a blue pin wash (Lordy-lordy I hear you say) and another what I think will be a grey wash. Time for some more test pieces.....

 

Now time for those three shift days to kick in, as always stay safe , lone wolf signing out : aw aw hoooowoooooooooooo 🐺

 

 

 

 

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Hello Amos,

 

it’s great to see your progress on this kit! Looks very good. 👍

 

1 hour ago, amos brierley said:

So, the answer is to keep the paint thin enough to be able to work with it and the airbrush moving at all times, but, some how to fill in the little panels without damaging the pre-shading effect.

What kind of GSI Creos paint do you use? If you’re using the Mr.HOBBY (Aqueous Hobby Color), then it’s best to add a 10 to 15% thinner to it. If it’s a Mr.COLOR - the 1:1 or 1:2 ratio will be best. As for me, controlling the amount of paint while spraying is defining on painting the small things. And the semi-gloss paints are easiest to work with (especially for the light shades).

 

1 hour ago, amos brierley said:

Now time for those three shift days to kick in, as always stay safe , lone wolf signing out : aw aw hoooowoooooooooooo 🐺

Stay safe, Lone Wolf! 🤝

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Hi-yer Nikolay.     The GSI paints I’ve been using is the Aqueous Hobby Colour with up to 50% Leveling thinner.    For some 25 or so years I’ve been solely using Xtracolour , the colours being spot on but more importantly end up being glossy in preparation of the decals. But, previous uses of Xtracolour white has led later down the line to is becoming yellow. ..... On the other hand if I was to try a rattle can (without strapping the model down) the model would just blow away 😬  .   Thanks for your support.   😉

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello everyone.            Little model, little update.

 

Only to be expected of life at this moment in time is I’ve found it a little bit difficult to deal with. As happens all too often it’s not just one thing but a great many little troubling ones all adding up to kipper me.

When you buy a new build house at some point time it will need some maintenance, and that such time was last year, but finding the way fwd was not easy. Having found a plumber/bathroom fitting service, three really ‘numpty’ features of this house have been sorted, getting these sorted will now give me some positivity moving fwd this year.....I hope.

Turning a negative into a positive,  I’ve received a medical appointment this Saturday, it’s generally my only overtime day. Initially I saw this as a negative, but I’ve found a way to make it a positive, this being to throw a week’s holiday in, that’s because my shift roster will see me next week moving to my ‘super seven’  (seven days off), nice. I mention this because this 14 days off work will see me being very determined to get back to some form of modelling.   😃

In amongst doing some modelling this week, I like to keep a eye out for all things TSR2. Whilst on our favourite auction site, a seller’s scroll bar just so happen to display something to pick my attention. 

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I’ve completely missed this books release, but, here’s several reasons why I’m loving it. Firstly, anything to do with TSR2, so Jimmy Dell, secondly, as an ex Warton flight line employee I’m familiar with the A/C pilot’s call sign Tarnish ......Had I’d known about these photos, the photos as originals can be reproduced bigger, but the photos in the book are no more than dots.

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At some point in time my bigger 1/72 build will need to be re-started this year.

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Finally. Whilst it’s going to take some time to spray this little kit, this is one small distraction I’ve been happy with. As a fully white kit, it’s not something I’m familiar with, here’s a quick test of washes for the panel lines.

A look at the model show callander shows that Tangmere are holding a show at Gatwick on May 2nd, should it be on I’m up for it, 240 miles won’t be a problem. 
 

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The obvious winner is Mig grey for snow, does what it says on the lid. And when the new Airfix Vulcan arrives we all know what colour mine will end up.

 

Thats all for now, stay safe. 😉

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Hello everyone.              Little model - little update - little less grumpy.   🤨


White GSI paint is now starting to fill in the centres of the panels, the panel lines are showing up nicely.    🙂
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W.I.P   the glove shows how fine a line I’m spraying,  it’s time consuming blocking in each panel. 
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The grey primer looks a little darker 
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One of my better photos with this iPad.
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Filling in panel by panel, which dip-stick thought adding the U/C was a right good idea? That grey stripe took some time to fill in without turning those wheels white. 
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A little bit left field....... something I’ve wanted to get off my chest.  At just ten years ago I built this rascal, it’s taken me a little while to re-locate my own photos from .....hhhhmmmm..... This now resides in the Heritage center BAE Systems Warton. Having somewhat stalled with the 1/72 kit  I’m now determined to complete something for myself. It’s bugging the life out of me not having anything to show BritModellers what I can do.       So , onwards and upwards.  

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Time to be content with what I’ve done so far.    😉

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Hello everyone.               Little model - big paint job.


A weekly food shop has seen me picking up these two publications from Tesco.

As always I keep an eye out for all things TSR2, the March edition of Aeroplane is an Australian take on the subject.

 

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Whilst I’m on with the paint job, I thought I’d take time to expand my October 29th post about the end game of decaling. Firstly painting, it’s coming along nicely, so far I’ve had four sittings, I think there’s at least another four sittings left, so far I’ve only applied pure white. When I’ve finished at least one coat of pure white, I’ll micro mesh it down and look at some form of post weathering in the form of GSI H21 off white and  H316 FS17875 white. At the moment all of my panel lines are just pre-shaded. It’s really something that sends me cold, but, so far so good , not what I was expecting to do but I’m going to run with it. 
 

Decals, with nothing out there specifically for an 1/144 TSR2, I’ve cobbled together stuff from everywhere. Providing the bulk of the eye candy is 105Sqn’s art, this will form the (fictional)decals for the first TSR2 squadron - 81Sqn at this scale they look fairly close. The gold of 81Sqns emblems at this scale may blend into the white paint, so, as well I’ m adding a few choice decals from the Eurofighter decal sheet in the form of (what I think are) Wing Commander ensigns and some very small Johnny Walker art work. Finally stencils will come from the kit and a couple from the Eurofighter sheet. As I’ve already said I’m a little disappointed that the kit decals only come with tail plane walk ways and not any wing walk ways, I’m just going to ignore this fact. 
 

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Any feedback on the work so far the  wings and backend would be lovely 😬

Until next time, stay safe.         😉

 

 

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Hello everyone.                 Small model - big update.

 

Straight to the point today.  I’ve done a few hours airbrushing and am very pleased with myself. So far I’ve sprayed pure white over a grey primer, it’s gone on very thinly, and I’ve deliberately sprayed it slightly patchy. Strictly no marbeling going on here, (said with a large chunk of sarcasm) I’ve yet to see a black line wash, black base, black marbeler, or pre-shader modeller tackle a TSR2.  Some twenty years ago I made a 1/48 commission build, I used a rattle can of Halfords Appliance white and a clicker pencil for the panel lines. Then in 2010 I did a 1/72 commission, I airbrushed my favourite brand - Xtracolour, weathering came as a post shading of brown and again the clicker pencil. Now, another ten years down the line and two of my own failed TSR2’s can be put behind me. During the last 30 yrs my own modelling style has changed, something s more than others, but the airbrush is still king.  So in the next couple of days I’ve got to go figure what to do and where I’m going with this model.  Pre-shading was just a convenient way to spray.......I don’t do 1/144......and you don’t normally see 1/144 builds for advice.  That leaves my favourite way of modelling post shading,  

 

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I’ve just realised, oh my, I’ve got no base to display this rascal. I’ve had to find a suitable base and I’ve started the process of converting a natural wood finish to glossy black.

 

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That’s all for now, hopefully no more off piste moments.......

 

Stay safe.       😃

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Just got this kit out of my stash, so many small parts! Struggling to find the motivation to get past just looking at all those bits, but I really really want to build a TSR2. Thinking of doing mine as XR219 in flight with the airbrakes deployed, that landing gear doesn't look appealing to assemble. 

Following this build for motivation, is looking really good so far

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