799 - 1/8 Citroën 15 Six Traction Avant

[fjaweijfopi4j48]

29 minutes ago, Bengalensis said:

I found a piece of 0,7 mm steel wire I had forgotten I had. Could this be used for the forward open section of the hand brake wires?

In a pinch, or having no access to stranded wire but instead to a craft store, these may be used (although they may be short for some uses):

https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kTrvFxmelPU/X-JSJ_3kZxI/AAAAAAAA0mk/2UkgJqxN1WUxBIvb3mW712k0BUmQlTYxgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1280/IMG_3122%2B%281280x960%29.jpg

[cherry268]

After catching up 4 pages I had to hold my jaw up

This is wizardry, us mortals can only admire from a distance

Absolutely stunning

[Bengalensis]

17 hours ago, TonyW said:

Yet more astonishing work. The wheel colour should look magnificent against the black bodywork.

 

I'm very impressed with Hellers wheel spacers. Baggy tyre to wheel fit is a particular irritant for me and that looks like a very good solution to the problem.

 

Thanks a lot Tony. I think the colour of the wheel will work. To me that is the definition of a Citroën Traction Avant; black with cream wheels.

 

Indeed tyre fit is very important on a good model. The tyres will go on the rims later today, so we'll see how it looks. I'm considering if I should stuff them with tissue paper to prevent them from possibly sagging too much. Will have to test a little.

[Bengalensis]

17 hours ago, Moa said:

In a pinch, or having no access to stranded wire but instead to a craft store, these may be used (although they may be short for some uses):

https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kTrvFxmelPU/X-JSJ_3kZxI/AAAAAAAA0mk/2UkgJqxN1WUxBIvb3mW712k0BUmQlTYxgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1280/IMG_3122%2B%281280x960%29.jpg

 

I will have to stock up on some of those, I'm sure they will come in useful some day. I know we talked about them before.

[Bengalensis]

14 hours ago, cherry268 said:

After catching up 4 pages I had to hold my jaw up

This is wizardry, us mortals can only admire from a distance

Absolutely stunning

 

Thanks a lot for the kind praise.

I'm sure you and many others can make this too, I hope my work can bring a little inspiration towards that.

[Bengalensis]

Heller's instructions are very vague when it comes to the routing of the rear fuel and brake lines, and the supplied vinyl squids all seems too short for routings that would make reasonable solutions from an engineering point of view.

 

I see some different solutions on various Traction Avant, possibly depending on manufacturing year and version, so I'm creating something that would work. The fuel line is in place from the trunk mounted fuel filter (to be fitted later) and into the V-channel. It's made from copper wire and heat shrink tube as the protection.

 

 

The rear brake lines are one single vinyl squid in the kit. I cut it to pieces to use the tee-connection and the two brake hoses with fittings, drilling them out to accept the same sort of wire I used to make the brake pipes up front.

 

 

The finished solution after it's installed and painted.

 

 

I also had to add the nuts for tensioning the hand brake wires.

 

[JeroenS]

Beautiful. 

[Bengalensis]

Here we have the assembled complete wheels. Out of technical principle I must wait with gluing the hubcaps until the wheels have been fitted to the brake drums.

 

 

A quick look with a finished wheel against the black body. It doesn't photograph well in this light condition, at least not with my limited photo abilities...

 

 

The two beams that carries the front bumper and the cross member supporting the radiator has been glued, taking as much care as possible of angles and height. This must now dry overnight before I can proceed with blending in the paint over the glue joint and then  work on radiator installation.

 

 

So I started cleaning up the glued exhaust parts. It's easier to make two new end plates for the silencer from 0,25 mm sheet styrene than cleaning up the recesses perfectly.

 

 

A bit of filler is needed on the end section to avoid sanding it too thin and oval before it's smooth.

 

 

All exhaust parts cleaned up. In an ideal world - as well as in Heller's instructions - I'd like to assemble and clean up all further glue joints, apart from the end piece, before painting and installation. It will not be easy to do so and also end up with a good enough fit in the end, but I will see what I can manage.

 

[JeroenS]

I like how the front of the car looks, with all those wires sticking out. What a kit this is, and you are doing it justice. 

[Bengalensis]

10 hours ago, JeroenS said:

I like how the front of the car looks, with all those wires sticking out. What a kit this is, and you are doing it justice. 

 

Thanks Jeroen, I just hope those wires will work as intended in the end...

[Bengalensis]

I decided yesterday to go ahead and build up most of the exhaust system separate from the car while trial fitting. The first parts were glued and left over night.

 

 

And this morning the second down pipe was glued in place.

 

 

While test fitting the radiator I realized that the wire for the left spot light would be too short, so that had to be fixed.

 

 

Slowly the radiator got installed. It's a process that required some thought and planning, but turned out well, so far. Much to my surprise it was very easy to get everything centred and lined up.

 

 

The warm air ducting installed.

 

 

Then it was time for the air cleaner. First I had to shorten the connecting tube slightly and remake the hose clip.

 

 

Then it got into a test fitting, fitting, remove, adjust and refitting work. It's a very tight fit for the housing against the front body work just behind the radiator. I think I have it done OK now, at last, but I wouldn't be surprised if I have to revisit and adjust when time comes for the front end parts to be fitted seriously...

 

[Bengalensis]

The work of carefully rigging the exhaust parts to glue the silencer to the main pipes started yesterday. All seemed fine, maybe the silencer is a bit too long.

 

 

But the angle of the main pipes towards the front looked all wrong. It should not cover the hand brake wires. And the silencer is far too long.

 

 

This made no sense from an engineering point of view. And again some checking to the real references confirmed. The forward pipe down from the exhaust manifold should be mirrored to bend off towards the right side under the torsion bar and connect to the right side main pipe. But this is how Heller made the parts and the instructions and it's the only way they can be assembled.

 

 

Enough was enough and the parts were removed, torn apart and the main pipes cut up in four sections up front. They were the rearranged in this way, and left to cure over night

 

 

With the joints cleaned up this morning I thought I could improve the whole thing a little. While the original exhaust system was made in one long piece all the way from the manifold to the muffler, most systems fitted today have two joints to make them easier to make and ship. I made the decision that my restored car of this day probably has such a system, possibly in stainless steel. Joints and clamps were added, and the flange to the silencer improved.

 

 

The parts were again rigged up to the glue the silencer, now also shortened some 4-5 mm. This felt a lot better.

 

 

A new and more accurate support for the tail pipe was also created.

 

 

This layout down from the engine makes much more sense to me.

 

 

And the whole layout confirms quite well to the real thing now... Now the glue must dry to get a solid joint, then painting can commence.

 

 

[JeroenS]

That is a particularly nice fix! 

[Bengalensis]

Gloss black sprayed as base for Alclad stainless steel and chrome.

 

 

Next I arrive at a major step that will no doubt cause some headaches; the complete front body work. I have to improve on the front wing fitting method, I haven't yet given any further thoughts on the bonnet hinges that must be better made and I don't expect the parts to fit well without tweaking. That's the larger obstacles, there are smaller as well that will just pass in comparison. Better get on with it...

 

 

The chrome is not bad at all; the problem is that all parts need a good deal of cleaning that will damage the chrome beyond repair.

 

 

After a bath in caustic soda the chrome and almost all primer is gone and cleaning up can start. Alclad will be the solution later on.

 

 

Some parts glued together early on to let glue dry while other work is done.

 

[JeroenS]

Man, you're flying with this thing. 

[fightersweep]

Once again, incredible work. Every single component of this build is a masterpiece. Stunning!

[Bengalensis]

22 hours ago, JeroenS said:

Man, you're flying with this thing. 

I'm trying, but probably not fast enough...

 

21 hours ago, fightersweep said:

Once again, incredible work. Every single component of this build is a masterpiece. Stunning!

Thanks a lot. Most is thanks to Heller. Except that exhaust up front, and some other thing...

[Bengalensis]

There are two small locations given in each side panel with corresponding tiny tabs on the front wings. They look like an afterthought. They are imprecise, too small and the rear is placed far too high, above the ridge the wing should match up to.

 

 

I filled the wing locations as I have to remake something. The three screws holding the chrome grille to each side are also not well done, and oversized.

 

 

I shaved them off and found some steel pin heads I think can be used. The locations were drilled and also counter sunk as on the real cars to make the screw heads flush with the bodywork.

 

 

In June 1950 the 15 Six got a small shutter added to each side panel to improve engine cooling, at the same time the type of dashboard the kit comes with was also introduced. The kit come with the side panels moulded plain with markings were to cut the openings if building a later car, and the shutters as separate parts to be fitted in open position.

 

 

Since my car is supposed be one built between June and October 1950, to be able to use the nice early curved bumpers, I have to use the shutters, but I don't want them open, I think. First thought was to make a template and scribe them, but due to the cutting recess in the back side I would scribe through. So I opened the holes, cut off the small glue tab from the shutters and adjusted the fit. I will glue them closed after painting.

 

 

I used 0,6 mm steel pins drilled into the front wing edges to make new locating pins, four on each side. First I drilled the most forward one in the side panel, transferred the location to the wing, drilled and glued the pin. Then I worked backwards one by one. The last one will fit into the main body and that location must be drilled later when fitting them permanently.

 

 

The fit here is now very precise and quite sturdy. How well that is going to translate into the final assembly is another matter... Further adjustments would not be much of a surprise.

 

 

This is the point I wanted to reach as soon as possible, to give the glue time to cure. I want to have strong glue joints using ordinary cement on unpainted surfaces between the grille and the side panels. This means some fiddle with panting black bodywork and then the chrome grille, but I have to manage that.

 

 

With the panels first set I added a bead of glue from the back and this will now have to dry over night.

 

 

There are parts in the kit for an old style steel oil can, to be placed inside the left side panel. I added the beads that are always present top and bottom on such cans from 0,75x0,25 mm Evergreen strips.

 

[TimJ]

Excellent work so far. The modifications to the exhaust are a great improvement. 

[Bengalensis]

18 hours ago, TimJ said:

Excellent work so far. The modifications to the exhaust are a great improvement. 

Thanks a lot Tim. I'm glad I went back and changed the exhaust.

[Bengalensis]

It's been a day with distractions from the work bench, but I have prepared all smaller parts for this step of the build for painting. The front wings and bonnet halves will have to wait until the grille and side panels are permanently fitted, as they will no doubt need a lot of adjustments. And the bonnet hinges to deal with...

 

Heller suggests a simple butt joint for the headlights. I don't think that's a good idea, so I drilled and fitted 1,6 mm rods to make life a lot easier. The pots were also later drilled for the electric wiring.

 

 

I did the same for the small side marker lights, but using 0,5 mm metal wire.

 

 

I have also sprayed 2K surfacer on the side panels, headlight pots and shutters. It's sand and paintable tomorrow, but I doubt there will be time...

 

[Pete in Lincs]

That's me caught up, after the festivities. Marvelous as always. Smart work with the exhaust and front wings.

No doubt more problems will crop up. No doubt whatsoever that you will overcome them.

[TonyW]

Nice work, as always.

 

I've never noticed the lovely bar detailing around the starting handle hole in the grill before. A very stylish addition to a grill, and so simple as well.

 

Have you considered Molotow chrome ink for the grill? I've used the pens and they give a quite remarkable chrome finish. If you keep a wet edge, there's no visible marks on things like wheels and bumpers although I usually use the pens on 1.25 scale cars. The ink is available in larger containers for pen top ups and airbrushing. I've not tried spraying the stuff yet but internet videos look very promising.

 

https://www.molotow.com/en/applications/marker-applications/liquid-chrome/

 

Tony.

[Bengalensis]

 

On 27/12/2020 at 20:36, Pete in Lincs said:

That's me caught up, after the festivities. Marvelous as always. Smart work with the exhaust and front wings.

No doubt more problems will crop up. No doubt whatsoever that you will overcome them.

Thanks a lot Pete, I just hope that the upcoming problem solutions will be good enough, but we will find out.

 

9 hours ago, TonyW said:

Nice work, as always.

 

I've never noticed the lovely bar detailing around the starting handle hole in the grill before. A very stylish addition to a grill, and so simple as well.

 

Have you considered Molotow chrome ink for the grill? I've used the pens and they give a quite remarkable chrome finish. If you keep a wet edge, there's no visible marks on things like wheels and bumpers although I usually use the pens on 1.25 scale cars. The ink is available in larger containers for pen top ups and airbrushing. I've not tried spraying the stuff yet but internet videos look very promising.

 

https://www.molotow.com/en/applications/marker-applications/liquid-chrome/

Thanks a lot Tony. Apparently that hole in the grille for the starting handle grew to a larger and larger oval early on as they changed/improved/developed engine and gearbox which made the starting handle position being raised, hence the need for that elaborate cover in this the final version.

 

I have some Molotow chrome pens that I have tried, and I think they are good, but I haven't been able to quite match Alclad. If that is because of me or the pens I don't know. I haven't tried spraying their refill though, one day I will have to do a comparison. I'll try Alclad first here as I usually do it, and we'll see if it comes out good enough. It's always more sensitive on larger areas, and I also have the bumpers to do...

[Bengalensis]

Black base and clear cote sprayed on the first front end parts.

 

 

The front mud flaps, not fitted to all cars, come in the kit as soft vinyl. They look OK from the outside, although the upper section is metal and needs painting to differ, but the backside is riddled with ejector pin marks, in soft vinyl... I cut new upper sections form 0,25 mm sheet styrene. I'll see if I have some thin rubber somewhere to cut new flaps from. Also I haven't yet decided if I will fit them.

 

 

The oil can needs some good printing on it. There is a french build on a forum where the builder published files to print a Yacco can, a classic brand for a classic Citroën.

https://www.lesmaquettistes.com/t3819p50-citroen-traction-avant-15-6-1-8

I downloaded the file instead of starting from scratch, and made some adjustments I wanted. It was a much lower resolution than I normally use in my decal printer so I wasn't sure it would come out OK after my treatment, but it did. Thanks for the help. I also added some current club stickers. There may be some more of that.

 

 

An old vintage oil tin can in a restored car of current date? Of course, you use an old well preserved empty can, that is refilled again and again with current oil from the ugly plastic containers...