Jump to content

799 - 1/8 Citroën 15 Six Traction Avant


Bengalensis

Recommended Posts

Things were going well and I glued the front brake backing plates on, following Heller's instructions. As the glue set something felt wrong, the hydraulic brake lines would attach in what seemed an odd way. I managed to get them off again, with minimal damage to fix. And sure enough, some consultations of the Citroën work shop manual, spare part catalogue and some 1/1 restoration photos confirmed it; Heller mixed up the LH and RH front brake parts in their instructions!

 

15_359.jpg

 

Here is now the LH front brake installed.

 

15_360.jpg

 

And the rear brake. I think I will wait a little with fitting the brake drums...

 

15_361.jpg

  • Like 8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, fightersweep said:

Everytime I see your work I sigh and think "I wish I could build models like that". 

 

I'm convinced you can. All you have to do is getting rid of your sanity and then tell yourself you don't have to do anything useful with your life...😎😬

  • Haha 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The front brake lines have now been fitted. They are the kit's vinyl squid parts; hence their somewhat oversized and compromised appearance, but they will do their job.

 

15_362.jpg

 

15_363.jpg

 

Preparation of the wheel parts have started.

 

15_364.jpg

 

The tyres are pretty beautiful Michelin Pilote renditions in pattern and shape. However they are moulded in this vinyl, have a seam line that must be fixed but they don't like to be sanded and they are quite shiny. We'll see what can be done.

 

15_365.jpg

  • Like 8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Valve stems are provided in the kit, and thankfully not in vinyl, but they are meant to just be glued onto the (painted) surface of the rim. I drilled them out at the bottom and glued 0,5 mm studs to them, and drilled the locating point in the rims.

 

15_366.jpg

 

After a few attempts I managed to sand down the mould line on the tyres with 150 grit emery cloth and hard manual labour. That followed by a light wiping of the surface with thinner and rubbing dry minimized the line to an acceptable level.

 

15_367.jpg

 

Rubbing the side walls thoroughly with a piece of cotton cloth removed the worst of the shine.

 

15_368.jpg

 

Maybe this can be OK? I will dwell on it while work continues.

 

15_369.jpg

  • Like 9
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Personally, I like what you've done with the tyres. The level of tread suggests a nice new set of tyres with minimal wear and that's how they look to me now. They remind me of a nice new set I bought for a Standard Flying 9 I once owned.

 

Steve

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, fightersweep said:

Personally, I like what you've done with the tyres. The level of tread suggests a nice new set of tyres with minimal wear and that's how they look to me now. They remind me of a nice new set I bought for a Standard Flying 9 I once owned.

 

Thanks Steve, a set of pretty new tyres is something I can live with on this car.

A Standard Flying 9 you say; that's a nice little piece of motor car 👍

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There's a set of quarter pieces to be glued on each rim to hold the tyre side walls positioned. When I measured they felt slightly wide, and indeed when fitted to the spare wheel the tyre didn't settle down perfectly. I trimmed them down a little and that cured the problem. The rest I reduced 0,5 mm in width before gluing and then all was fine.

 

15_370.jpg

 

The hubcaps chrome is of good quality, and further more the sprue attachments are for once placed perfectly on the bottom edge, so they can be used as they are.

 

15_371.jpg

 

In this large scale I think we need the wheel balance weights. I felt a quarter round Evergreen strip would be a good start, but their smallest is 0,75 mm, a bit large. I scraped a piece down a little on both sides and curved it.

 

15_372.jpg

 

Then I cut three different lengths for different weights, all to be sprayed some lead like colour. Their clips will be added after they are glued using Bare Metal matte foil, I think, or possibly thin metal strips, we'll see.

 

15_373.jpg

 

I made my own mix of a cream colour for the rims from some white and yellow lacquer spray cans I had around.

 

15_374.jpg

 

Here we are after a coat of 2K clear has been sprayed. This will cure overnight before the nuts can be painted and washed.

 

15_375.jpg

 

To try and minimize the risk of the soft vinyl tyres melting the styrene rims over the years to come, as discussed earlier in the thread, I made sure to spray both paint and clear coat also on the inner edges where tyres will be in contact.

 

15_376.jpg

 

While paint dries a start has been made on the radiator and other parts that build up the front section of the engine installation. A bit of filler needed on some joints and several half parts to be cleaned up after glue has dried.

 

15_377.jpg

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Moa said:

Dear Jörgen: I realized you live in a Parallel Modeling Universe where kit assembly renders perfect results. How can we get there? Perhaps be bribing @Space Ranger...

Sorry to disillusion you, but the Space Rangers have plenty to do in THIS universe without attempting to contact other universes. You will have to contact the Parallel Universe Space Rangers if you can figure out to do that (in whichever parallel universe they may or may not exist at the moment). But I should warn you that messing about with parallel universes, while not strictly in violation of any statutes of the United Worlds of the Solar System, is best left to experts. Do not try this at home. Seek professional help. Close cover before striking. Objects in mirror may not really be there at all.

  • Like 1
  • Haha 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have to enquire if you actually balance those 1/8 scale wheels/tyres or are the weights just for replication? 😀

 

Also, what do you use for your 2k clear coat, and how do you apply it, if I may ask?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Moa said:

Dear Jörgen: I realized you live in a Parallel Modeling Universe where kit assembly renders perfect results. How can we get there? Perhaps by bribing @Space Ranger...

Oh dear Claudio, I have already seen you here. I was flown to here in one of your golden era aeroplanes you know...

  • Haha 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

46 minutes ago, Jinxman said:

I have to enquire if you actually balance those 1/8 scale wheels/tyres or are the weights just for replication? 😀

 

Also, what do you use for your 2k clear coat, and how do you apply it, if I may ask?

If I can finish the 1/8 scale balancing machine I will take orders... 😎

 

The 2K clear is 1/1 scale automotive stuff; PPG D800 clear, D802 hardener and D807 thinner, standard mixing is 2-1-1, but for modelling I'm thinning 2-4 times more depending on job, and spray using an Iwata Revolution SAR or Iwata Eclipse HP-SA, usually at about 1,5-2 bar pressure.

And before the H&S brigade goes mad at me (again); use a reasonably well prepared boot with working ventilation/exhaust and the right filter mask or fresh air mask.

  • Like 2
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Bengalensis said:

 and spray using an Iwata Revolution SAR or Iwata Eclipse HP-SA, usually at about 1,5-2 bar pressure.

So that's a 0.5mm nozzle, and assume the higher thinner ratio makes this workable?

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, Jinxman said:

So that's a 0.5mm nozzle, and assume the higher thinner ratio makes this workable?

 

Yes I think they are both 0,5 mm nozzles. Sprays perfectly with the higher thinning ratios, experimentation and experience over the years (including other brands like ICI, Sikkens, Dupont) have thought me what consistence and settings to aim for with the job I have at hand.

 

The paint's performance and dependable and repeatable results makes it worth the cost and the added mess in using it, for me.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Work continued with the radiator, air cleaner and their related parts. Hours are quickly gone in cleaning parts and taking care of glue joints. The radiator is a small project in itself. The filler cap needed to be moved slightly backwards.

 

15_378.jpg

 

The pressure cap for the radiator is moulded as a vinyl squid with its hose, another case for replacement. I made a new cap from a piece of sprue and found a piece of wire for the hose.

 

15_379.jpg

 

16 parts to make a radiator, but it's looking good I think. I replaced the two braces that go across the faces front and back with Evergreen rod, far easier than cleaning up the thin moulded parts.

 

15_380.jpg

 

And we have more paint to dry after another spraying session with various shades of black, and a tiny piece of brass.

 

15_381.jpg

 

Under all those clamps are the parts for the exhaust system. They are quite hefty pieces needing a good deal of glue and some force to hold the together. These will need at least a day or two to dry out before further work on them can continue.

 

15_382.jpg

 

Next the instructions tell me to deal with the installation of the exhaust system, hand brake cables, rear brake pipes and the fuel line from the tank. I suspect that this will be more involved than it might first look.

 

15_383.jpg

 

The main reason for my suspicion is that all parts, except some exhaust brackets, are again moulded vinyl squids, non to my liking. I will use some smaller sections of them. For some I have already chosen replacement material, for others I have to find out.

 

15_384.jpg

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, amazing indeed, as usual! That "like" button is losing its value rapidly, and I'm also running out of words 🙂 

 

I must say those instructions look the part too, it's like a manual of the full blown vehicle!

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

49 minutes ago, Bjorn said:

Amazing. Again! How many parts are there? I'm also impressed that you know every technical term in English! I even had to check out what "technical term" was called in English! 😁

Thanks a lot Björn.

1054 parts according to Heller.

I'm afraid it's the price I pay for a life spent on cars (apart from modelling) with most contacts, dealings and supplies placed abroad. Another part of that price is that I don't know many ordinary every day terms, even in my native language... 😎

  • Haha 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 minutes ago, JeroenS said:

Yes, amazing indeed, as usual! That "like" button is losing its value rapidly, and I'm also running out of words 🙂 

 

I must say those instructions look the part too, it's like a manual of the full blown vehicle!

 

Thanks a lot Jeroen.

I really like the drawings of these old Heller instructions, they add a lot to the feeling, and it's the reason why I place a photo of every new page.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The wheel nuts have been painted and washed. I have also given them a very light wash of dirt into the deeper creeves.

 

15_385.jpg

 

A bit of detail painting on the radiator and its parts have also been done.

 

15_386.jpg

 

I found a piece of 0,7 mm steel wire I had forgotten I had. Could this be used for the forward open section of the hand brake wires?

 

15_387.jpg

 

I soldered the ends to stop them from fraying and cut two lengths. Using the ends of the vinyl squids and making new centre supports from Evergreen strips I had this.

 

15_388.jpg

 

The sleeved rear sections where made from a suitable electric wire. Originally the car would have had spiral steel sleeved wires, but since this is a restored car driven today I can afford to replicate a bit more modern wires with black sleeves. And anyway the thickest guitar string I had was too thin...

 

15_389.jpg

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yet more astonishing work. The wheel colour should look magnificent against the black bodywork.

 

I'm very impressed with Hellers wheel spacers. Baggy tyre to wheel fit is a particular irritant for me and that looks like a very good solution to the problem.

 

Tony.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...